Wednesday, December 30, 2015

December 15... 2015 : back aboard

Dec 15 - 


The adventure continues …  
We were up early, really early.  2 am.  Our flight out of O’Hare: 5:30.  Our cabby picked us up and dropped us off at the ‘Spirit’ terminal.  Already a bit of a line.  Our previous 2 flights with them proved, as with most companies and individuals, that kindness goes a   l o n g  way… Spirit has a reputation for being not the friendliest airline, budget their number one interest.  We did save a good deal on tickets (their selling point) but they are lacking in the cheer department … After our ‘wait’ in line, our agent waved us up.  Very business like.  But soon, we had her chatting away and a  smile broke over her face!  She had been working since 2am and had yet to have her wakeup coffee!  Our bags, we knew were each a tad bit over their 40 lb limit… She let Jim’s pass as we continued BS’ing.  Next up my bag… way over weight.  Jim slyly holding the end of mine ever so slightly off the scale… ‘oh, you’re a bit over too… I’ll just let it slide..  No problem.’     Thank you!  

Yeah… now for security.  The line a hundred or so deep, lines Disney style.  No one checking people through yet.  4 am one TSA attendant started the daunting tasks of checking Id’s etc… finally another joined the checking and 80 minutes later… we were through and on to the scanners.  We helped a young family through the process, 7ish year old daughter interpreting for them.  Then on to our gate.  With meeting all those new people, we had little wait time for the plane.  And we were up, up and away landing in Fort Lauderdale 2.5 hours later.  An agent for Spirit kindly met all transfer passengers and guided us OUT of the airport and along the sidewalk.  ??? (For unexplained reasons our Spirit plane was directed / landed in the Jet Blue terminal so we had to be escorted to the Spirit terminal)  We then had to go through security… again.  Yeah!  More new friends to make.  Put on the happy face again.  Seriously, it was no big deal and we got to take in the warmth of south Florida as we walked outside.  Bonus; something a bit interesting to write about too.   Back through security, we headed to the boarding gate.  Our plane already waiting.  (A 3 hour layover. )  As the time drew closer and no call for boarding we started to wonder… Our plane had been outside the large windows the whole time, engines spewing exhaust.  A bit of eaves dropping and we heard we would be moving to yet another gate.  More new people to meet!  yeah … Then the announcement comes on.  Flight Delay.  ….the new departure time came and went … as we watched the plane being taken away we were told a new plane / gate / crew would be ready soon.  5 hours after the original take off time… we began boarding.  
big boats... big toys
view from shore 
One unruly passenger started cussing, then stomping around.  left.  came back.  cussed some more…  Insert image: sagging pants.  multicolored socks with marijuana leaves embroidered on them.  airline pillow cresting atop his dreadlocks.  a winter coat:  He cut in line and then blew past the agent scanning tickets and proceeded down the ramp… I fully expected (kind of hoped) security would be on him but the incredibly patient ticket agent zipped down the ramp and retrieved his ticket to scan it.  After we were all aboard the pilot apologized for the delay said we’d be underway soon.  
We were on a MUCH bigger plane.  LOTS of empty seats.  After the plane reach altitude, we could find a different seat if we wished but had to stay put for now to make sure the weight was distributed as needed for takeoff.  Finally, we were airborne and had an uneventful flight.  Due to the previous delays, we arrived in St. Thomas well after dark.  Our boat sitters had taken a hotel for the night and given directions as to where to find the dinghy and general directions to the boat laying at anchor.  A taxi ride, load the dinghy: head toward the shack on shore and we located the boat.  We were home!
The nice tidy surroundings were soon inundated with our unpacked belongings.  We sat in the cockpit and began to unwind.  It felt good.  The mountain side twinkling with lights from homes.  The road paralleling the harbor alive with traffic.  Caribbean music wafting from shore.  Scents of florals drifting through the air.  Relief filling our senses.  Our heads full of wonderful memories from our winter break.  We sat and relished the evening for a while then called it a night.

St.Thomas / Charlotte Amali
musical ships heading for other ports
Jim got started on the fix it list first thing, installing parts we returned with before we headed out to  brunch with our boat sitters, John and Sue. They filled us in on some of the things to address for repairs. They had had a few mishaps during our absence.  We parted ways; they needed to catch their plane home and we needed to find a computer repair shop.   

We made arrangements with the computer store to return tomorrow for diagnosis and headed back home.  Jim continued fixing and installing while I tackled the stowing of goods.  
Mid afternoon, we headed to Crown Bay Marina to inquire about service for our yet to be ordered wind vane… The dinghy ride was pleasant.   Jim went off to locate the shop while I met up with Cindy / Splash.   Soon the 4 of us were all reunited and shared a few stories from each of our adventures.  Then… we were were serenaded by 2 cruise ships… Crown Bay Marina is located adjacent to one of the 2 cruise ship docks.  We have grown accustom to their signal horns for docking, leaving, etc.  This was quite different.  It started as usual, loud toots from the departing ship then escalated into what Jim thought reminiscent of the Close Encounters closing scene where the Alien spaceship attempts communication with the scientists on the mountain.  The departing ship signals, the docked ship returned / acknowledged it’s signal.  Ship 1 replies… ship 2 ups the ante… for 10 minutes the ships ‘signal’ back and forth each playing something musical and more intricate broadcasting through their ships horns.  Ship #2 even used a HUGE screen TV on the upper most deck with accompanying video, clearing viewed from our vantage point at the marina.  …  Very impressive and VERY loud.  Jim / Splash added a few toots from their air horn in support.  
We made it home as the sun slipped below the horizon.  Dinner: caesar salad.  Cool and fresh.  A glass of wine and our new LUCI lights for the cockpit adding to the ambiance. 

remains of a sugar cane boiling pot
More fixing our boat in exotic locations…
We continued to tick off projects as best we could over the next couple of days.  Adjusting the steering system that broke in our absence.  Ordering a new wind vane to increase our electrical supply (yeah) and locating parts for projects took up most of 2 days.   We took the Safari to Red Hook, another town, to see about installation and parts for the wind vane.  It was a bust, the business too busy too help anytime soon.  The Safari ride was quite interesting though.  We went out of town and up and over the mountain ridge, stopping often to pick up and drop off passengers.  It was a great way to get a glimpse into island life as we sped along.  The ride it cost $2.oo per person since had ventured out of the city limits.
Back at the computer store,  we were told the computer program had a glitch and was preventing the files (9,000 pictures taken so far !!! )  from transferring to the external hard drive… Carlos the technician, put in several hours yet only charged $40.oo.  A bargain to have it working properly again.  

Having completed enough projects to get us on our way, we finally upped the anchor.  Fuel and water at Crown Bay Marina and we were cruising again… The weather report says more unsettled systems rolling through, squalls and winds building over the next few days.  We choose Magen’s Bay to sit out the forecast.  It is only 2 miles away… over the mountain ridge but 10 miles in todays sloppy water.  We (Jim) had quite a soaking from the squalls navigating us along.  
Magen’s Bay is about a 1 mile stretch of beach and public park.  We anchored in 10 feet of clear water with a sandy bottom, Jim dropping the hook as a Ray swam by.   This is a very popular spot for the Cruise Ship excursions to bring customers.  

We passed the evening quite peacefully, our neighbors with their water slides, jet skis and other marine toys kept us entertained.  One of the ‘neighbors’ is Rising Sun, a 450 foot super mega yacht  $211,000 price tag in 2006… built by the founder of Oracle… 88,000 feet of living space.  We are cruising with the big boys now… They have dinghies nearly as big is our lovely Inishnee.  
the windmill was used to run a press to crush the cane and produce juice 

the hill side was stripped of trees and sugar cane was planted
Magen’s Bay turned out to be not a cruiser friendly place.  Within minutes of going ashore, a lifeguard met us and asked (told) us to move our dinghy…. Where to? …   Off the beach… their Cruise Ship customers apparently need the space… Our attempt to point out the numerous derelict boats on shore where we tied up fell on deaf ears. So, not wanting to argue with Simon, ‘Chief of the Beach’ his words not ours… Jim took the dinghy to a private mooring ball (someone’s going to want money I’m sure) and swam ashore…. 
We purchased a drink from the only bar on the beach but didn’t feel very welcome… We finished our beverage and went home.  It is the first time we have felt like intruders and unwelcome in the islands.  We’ll be off tomorrow more a friendlier anchorage.  

St. Johns
The weather report called for more high winds for several more days: the Christmas Winds.  They start blowing around mid December and continue through the winter months.  We decided to head to Watermelon /  Lienster Bay where we had spent Thanksgiving.  A nice protected anchored.  The 12 mile passage should have taken less than 3 hours.  With the winds and seas on the nose we slogged along at 2.5 - 3.5 knots until we would plunge into a good size wave and come to a near stop… 4 1/2 hours later we were thankfully, calmly bobbing from a mooring ball.  No lifeguard to hassle us, no homes ashore to offer up light pollution.  Just a few other cruisers enjoying the sights.  

Charles loosening the flesh from a coconut 
I lazed around this morning, a bit of a cold or bug making me sluggish.  Jim began the work of repositioning things on the aft deck to install our new wind vane soon to be delivered.  Here’s hoping it meets / exceeds our electrical needs.  By noon I was feeling better so we took off to explore the ruins  of the Annaberg Sugar Mill.  A very pleasant walk along the shore, the path shrouded in mangroves and tropical trees.  A mongoose skittered across the trail ahead.  I read that their are snakes on the island as well but not to worry… the mongoose takes care of most of them.   * It’s my guess that since the mongoose is not native to the islands, they were brought here to rid the area of rats (which were brought to the islands by ships / cargo) like ‘they’ did in Hawaii.  The problem… the mongoose is diurnal and rats are nocturnal which wasn't discovered until after their release.  The Hawaiian mongoose it now partly responsible for the decline and extinction of many bird species in Hawaii since the eggs of the birds make for easy meals.  
We continued down the path and then up the stairway to the ruins.  All of the islands had thriving businesses producing sugar and rum from cane juice for about 150 years; at the expense of African slaves.  We waked around the grounds which have been crudely restored, plaques placed at intervals providing information about the buildings and milling process.  
our gifts from Charles... the large leaves are 'painkiller'
So far, our explorations of this island has shown it to be pretty much steep mountainous terrain with only a few pockets of flat land where they built a port … so where did the sugar can come from / grow?… We  spoke with one of the park staff about this.  The slaves were forced to cut down all the trees on the mountain side, create terraces, then pant the canes.  Aqueducts were made and used to divert the daily rains to water the crops.  When harvested it brought to the mill where a windmill powered the cane press which smashed the canes to extruded the juice.  It was then boiled for days to reduce the liquid to sugar crystals or molasses.    Ships carried the finished products to markets.  *The ships ballasts of rock were off loaded and used to as building materials throughout the islands.  
painkillers: leaves or liquid 
Continuing our exploration of the ruins,  we met Charles.   He appeared to be the grounds keeper.  Charles offered up fresh coconut with a lesson on extracting the tender meat inside.  He also manages the small garden which has many local trees and plant species to inspect.  We were given (waaay tooooo many) samples of local plants: steam the leaves of this plant to make a lovely tea (possibly allspice) and this leaf; you place the shiny side directly on your aching parts for relief, an herbal form of aspirin. Charles called it Painkiller and demonstrated how to use it.  We thanked him for his time and hard work, dropped a tip in the jar and headed home.  
What next?… Jim, of course had to compare the 2 very different painkillers we now have on board.  First the leaves… feeling no immediate effects he switched to the liquid tonic; it proved to be fairly effective at least in the short term. 







































Winter Break  /  Dec 1 - 15
Natalie Rose

We have returned to ‘The States’ to visit family and friends and squeeze a few business items into the mix.  
Winter is my LEAST favorite season.  EVER.  Or at least it was in my other life. ie: Cold temps.  Snow.  Icy roads.  Muddy walkways.  Cold temps.  Shoveling.  Overcast skies.  More cold temps. 
but… for the first time in my life…. I don't care!  We have such a short time to deal with it… 
We packed nearly every piece of warm clothes we have, which didn't amount to much.  No boots: hiking shoes will have to do.  We gave away our winter coats:  Layer up the shirts, raincoats to block the wind.  Going from planes to cars to houses should be very doable with what we have…
Ta Da !
Miss Nora

Dec 1 - 6+
First up: St. Paul (Minneapolis), Minnesota.   We had the great pleasure of meeting the lovely little Natalie Rose, son Alex’s newest family member.  She joins mommy Nicki and big sister Nora.  She turned 3 weeks old during our visit, Miss Natalie is still very, very tiny, just over 6 pounds.  You hardly know she's around, fussing only when hungry or wet… I hope I don’t jinx it by saying that.  She does exercise her tiny lungs when getting changed; she’s either modest or likes the cold less than I do. 
Her big sister Nora is developing quite a personality. She has a vivid imagination… is quite articulate for being not quite 2 and is pretty independent.  Traits that will serve her well as she matures.  
Nora, Alex, Nicki (Natalie), Jim
Alex and Nicki are some of the best parents any child could hope for (brag brag).  Loving, caring… just the right amount of freedom for independence.  No helicoptering in this house…  
Happy Holidays !
We cuddled, and played.  Read books and snuggled.  Colored and sang and had a fantastic time.  It’s a good thing we couldn't  staying any longer… the heart strings were being pulled pretty freakin' tight.  

Home Brew ...
There was just a hint of snow for our arrival, which melted within a few days.  Unseasonably warm weather.  While I snuggled with Natalie, the rest of the family enjoyed the park just down the road.  Another day we played at the indoor park.  Climbing apparatus, balls, foam blocks, spinning chairs and slides among the equipment.  We are pretty sure Nora enjoyed the park as much as her daddy did.  It’s a great concept for families wanting to get some exercise but not freeze in the process.  
Nicki put together fantastic homemade meals everyday while Alex plied us with home brews, his latest hobby.  Pints of ales and hard cider.  

Saugatuck , MI
Mnt. Baldy





























All too soon it was time to leave.  Our plane, an early morning flight to Chicago.  We were singled our by security to go threw the fast lane !  Leave the shoes and coats on.  Zip through the ‘detector’ and we were off to the gate.  Our plane sitting outside waiting to be boarded.  The agent comes on the speaker and clears all passengers to board… except those who's final destination is Chicago.  Sit tight please… Chicago is completely fogged in.  No flights in or out.  We’ll reschedule as soon as possible.  So, there were 4 more flights to Chicago later that day, all but the last one booked full.  They put us on standby for all flights.  Chances slim, there were a number of people who needed to be rescheduled to Chicago. But; Jim’s great people skills went into action and the agent being a ‘State’ fan (go green / go white) may have tipped the scale.  She got us on the 2 pm flight.  We got into Chi town just before sunset, took the Orange Line to downtown and sister Marianne chauffeured us to mom Nee’s new apartment.  We had a great, quick reunion with mom, Yang, Rich and Mary, Uncle Dudley and Aunt Eileen.  Again, too short.
Kathy, Terry, Bil and Jim

Dec 8 - 12
Father / Daughter
Kathy and Carrie










Off to Michigan.  (Thanks for the loaner Rich and Mary).  Best’ie friend Carrie (and Janis) opened their home to us.  We tried to squeeze in as many friends and family as possible in the short time we had.  Dentist and doctors took up a bit of our ever shortening time as well.  We checked out a few of our old haunts.  Took a drive to Oval Beach, Lake Michigan.  Cloudy and windy.  The weather was unseasonably warm.  Lows: 40’s, highs: 60’s.  A bit of rain.  Beverages with Bob and Linda.  Dinners with Carrie, Janis and daughter Theresa, another with Terry and Bill.
We celebrated my birthday at ‘our place’: Pereddies.  Italian fare.  Cozy.  A complimentary tiramisu; candle and song included.  
good old friends
Carrie and Janis hosted a party for us Friday night.  Friends brought treats and Carrie made fantastic soups.  We poured Painkillers for all to sample.  It was great to see everyone and catch up on each others lives.  

Theresa 
Next up; Theresa’s graduation from Grand Valley State University.  A bit misty for the short drive to Grand Rapids, Van Andel Arena.  1,000 +/- graduates and nearing 10,000 guests.  Open seating.  As the grads walked in, we spotted her quickly.  Fantastic luck…she was seated just down from us.  A few speeches and honorary degrees took precident… 2 hours later she crossed the stage, proud pops whistling.  We managed to find each other quickly after the proceedings and scooted across the street to the BOB for lunch. The BOB is a big old building, formerly a warehouse that has been repurposed into restaurants and meeting rooms.  We are so happy and proud of Theresa’s accomplishments and wish her all the best with her new ventures.  




Dec 12 - 15
Up north Family
Continuing to do and see as much as possible, we headed for Johannesburg.  My home town, northern Michigan.  We only had an overnight with mom, Helen… 91 years young.  She still drives, maintains her home, cooks (really good food) and has a memory that is sharp as a tack.  Mom too, hosted a get together.  Nancy (sister in law) made a home groen, home made raspberry pie.  We had a great visit with brothers David and Gary, sister in law Barb, nephew and niece Don and Kelly, son Adam.  
Sunday meant we needed to once again hit the pavement and move on.  Hugs and well wishes.  A few more tears…
We listened to the ‘Bears’ lose yet another game over the radio waves as we drove.  Then the business of repacking for flights ‘home’ on Tuesday… It seems odd to call the Caribbean home… but it is home… for now.  
We shared a few beverages with Carrie and Janis before calling it a night.  
The DDS crew
We were up early to make our DDS appointments in Saugatuck, plenty of teary eyes as best’ie Carrie and I said our good byes.  
Jim and I each had a minor cavity that Dr. Tracey wanted to fix, us not knowing when we’ll return to Saugatuck.  She and the crew at DellaVecchia Dental Services are top notch.  We are happy to know them professionally and also call them friends!  (watch for our post cards!!!)
Marianne, Jim, Jean, Eileen, Dudley
a bunch of Nee's





Then on to Chicago for our last round of family time.  






















Tuesday, December 1, 2015

U.S. Virgin Islands

U.S.V.I.
one of the MANY ferry boats carrying passengers between islands
Nov 16 - 30
On to the U.S. Virgin Islands…
From Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI, we made a quick hop to the next island, St. John: Cruz Bay USVI to check in to the U.S.    7 miles.  We tied to the customs dock and proceed to the entrance.  All on board must be present.  Jim filled out the necessary paperwork while Bob and I were ‘checked’ by security… then sent on our way.  Jim followed shortly after, pretty sure we obtained the correct papers, stamps, etc… 
Next stop, a mooring ball provided (for a fee) by the U.S. National Park Service.  A beautiful bay.  A resort on shore.  St. Thomas on the horizon, twinkling away.  A quick couple of rain squalls.  Dinner.  Quiet time.  Sleep.  

Bud and Bones ...
From St. John’s we made another quick passage to St. Thomas.  Objectives: Bob leaves from here in a couple of days and we need to research options for leaving Inishnee for nearly 3 weeks while we are off island visiting family, etc… We had hoped to reserve a spot at Compass Point Marina but they were full up and don’t know if / when their current slip holders will be leaving… We tried several other marinas with no luck.  Looking around it was evident that most of the anchored boats were in much disrepair although they were home to a number of individuals.  Having anchored in the unprotected bay: security as well and wind break; we decided to proceed to Plan B… Head to Charlotte Amalie the next bay / town over.  
We dropped the hook in the protected, sheltered harbor and went ashore.  Charlotte Amalie is a much bigger town.  Right away we noticed numerous live aboard’s, monohulls.  Less derelict than the last harbor at least.   One of the transient live aboard’s, Krissy, gave us information about the area.  Although crime isn't rampant, take some precautions, use the dinghy cable and lock.  
We choose The Shipwreck for dinner and drinks and INTERNET !!!  As we were about the leave we were introduced to Boner… and his owner (creator) Bud… Quite a pair.  Boner is Bud’s plastic, pieced together ‘dog’… Bud plans to give Boner a Facebook identity and hopes it will go viral… Like Grumpy Cat and Chris P. Bacon… ‘They’ were quite entertaining for the first 10 minutes… the next 20, not so much.  We had to pry ourselves away from the pair… 

celebrating a great trip and a great friendship
Bob headed off today (sort of), Wednesday, splurging on a hotel with a ‘proper’ shower and head for his last couple days of vacation.  He leaves for home and his family Friday morning.  We are so grateful for his help and company the last four weeks.  Good friends are indispensable.  
*he reported back that his first morning home was accompanied by the seasons first several inches of snow… With our trip ‘home’ just around the corner… it seems daunting.  Note to self: it’s vacation… I get to leave the cold and snow after 2 weeks… (repeat to self as needed)

Next up for us, the slip search continues … We made a lot of inquiries but nothing solid yet for either a boat sitter or a slip that won’t break the bank.  
Following one of our leads for a marina, we took the dinghy to Crown Bay Marina to check on availability.  A 20 minute ride, spotting several sea turtles on the way.  As we made our way to the dinghy dock we spotted our friends “Splash”… They had just arrived the day before.  Jim and Cindy along with crew Ted and John left the day before we did from Oriental, NC with plans to meet in Jost Van Dyke… They experienced some very heavy seas and their weather guy suggested they divert to the Dominican Republic, which they did.  They rested up, took care of some personal business and set out again, making a few stops along the way at the Spanish Virgin Islands.  It was terrific to catch up with them and share stories.  We hope to make a few new ones with them over the next few months as we bop along these lovely diverse islands.  

motor fixin'
We are settling in to a slower lifestyle here.  Catching up on boat projects and just enjoying having made it to the ‘Islands”… We’ve made a few jaunts into town and are getting the lay of the land.  It is MUCH busier than the islands of the BVI’s.  More populated.  More traffic.  More stuff.  There are several cruise ships coming to port, each harboring some 5,000 tourists.  Staying for the day then off to another port overnight.  The area where the ships dock is full of stalls to purchase all kinds of trinkets and goodies.  
There is a decent grocery, Pueblos, close to the dinghy dock, a Kmart with ‘free’ wifi where dozens of people hang out trying to get a signal.  FYI: you get what you pay for… We have made a habit of going to The Shipwreck.  Food and drinks are good, the help is friendly and they don't seem to care if we nurse our beverages while we hawk their wifi.  

One of the trips to shore, our nearly new dinghy quit.  Just quit.  No warning.  Just quit!  Pull and pull it would not fire.  The oars were put to work till a passing cruiser in their dinghy gave us a tow.  We then spent the better part of the day trying to diagnose the problem.  Our friends Jim and Cindy were having outboard work done and pointed us to a dealer / mechanic.  Water in the fuel lines the suggested culprit.  During our visit with Jim and Cindy, one of their crew for the passage who was leaving the next day heard about our dilemma about needing a boat sitter and said, ‘I might be able to come back… let me talk to my wife…’  Within a day, John and his wife Sue had booked flights here to be our boat sitters.!!!  We were shocked and overjoyed.  Although we had not know John long, he came HIGHLY recommended, is a sailor and he and his wife are willing to drop everything and take an impromptu vacation.  As Cindy said, it’s a win / win for all of us.  With that problem solved we were in better spirits and headed to the dinghy for the long, hot, row back.  Luck still siding with us, another super kind cruiser towed us home… Thank you Henry!  Back aboard, Jim hauled out the manual for the motor we acquired from son Stephen, a marine technician / mechanic.  Jim got right on it and within a couple hours the motor was disassembled, back together and running… better than before.  It was indeed water in the lines, the heavy weather during the passage probably introduced some sea water into the tank.  Cleaned out and tuned up we were up and running again, although we are considering a new, bigger motor to handle the longer distances we will sometimes need to cross to get from place to place… here’s hoping Santa is in a generous mood for Christmas.  
Safari Taxi

We have ridden the Safari Taxi several times.  Big trucks with their beds converted with African safari type benches, open air.  Very efficient.  Cheap at one buck a ride person, whether you get your own seat or ‘share’ your husbands lap when at (above) capacity.  There are plenty of things to buy along the waterfront when the ‘ships’ come in.  Off days, there is less pressure from ‘barkers’ what the vendors are called here.  The prices are slightly higher than the continental states but reasonable given that everything is shipped in.  

Kathy, Norma and Cindy
We went on a excursion with Jim and Cindy today.  We bought a couple of fresh baked pies from Norma at the farmers market.  Norma is a local retired school teacher, her children living and working in the states, whom she visits as time allows.   We then took the Safari Taxi to the University to check out the Agricultural Fair.  Raymond, a local, was friendly and helpful chatting along the way, he too heading to the fair.  He exemplified what we have come to know as the local demeanor.  Friendly.  Patient.  Helpful.  Quiet, slow conversation.  Directions given in a not quite exact manor… and his hand shake; ‘text book’ for what the guide book calls local.  Gentle, soft, just a hint of closure but coming from the heart.  

Raymond
There were livestock pens housing critters like a 4H fair.  The local power company had an energy exhibit which Jim had to check out.  Switches and wire and lineman tools and of course he shared a few stories with the linemen who were giving demonstrations.


The local power company expo 

 There was plenty of Caribbean fair food: homemade though… salt fish cakes, one like a hush puppies, another like an empanada, pretty good,  salt fish soup: spinach and fish… I won’t be sampling a lot more of that…  Veggie wraps and sweet treats… A number of venders selling fresh, ripe fruits and vegetables.  We’ll be having juicy mango for breakfast and ripe, fried plantain for dinner!  We checked out the beach associated with the University, Brewers Bay.  Clean, quiet.  A free flush toilet facility on shore!!!  We met another boating family and they gave us a few pointers on local shops to save a few bucks on supplies and food purchases.  
Ripe, fresh fruits and veggies
We caught the next Safari back to Shipwreck’s.  This one had a window notice apologizing for an inconvenience of service… they will no longer pick up / drop off at Pueblo’s Grocery… the increased police presents, issuing tickets to drivers with too many passengers… ironic reading while Cindy and I were both perched on our hubbies laps due to seat shortage…  which didn't deter the driver from attempting to pick up another fare at each stop along the way… 

prepping coconuts for oil
Our first day in Charlotte Amalie we were anchored near another boat with a kedge anchor off the stern of the boat as well as being secured to a mooring ball off the bow.  This setup does not allow the boat to swing… Last night there was quite a swell from the open waters causing the boats to rock about all night, except the boat with the kedge… He’s been here a while (note the satellite dish on the stern) and knows this happens enough to use defensive measures… we will have a new anchorage tonight.  

Fish Bay, St John.  We went ashore to run a few errands, internet, grocery, mail… then we and Splash upped anchor and headed out.  First choice, Christmas Bay… polluted with other cruisers.  Next choice, Fish Bay.  NO other cruisers.  Mostly quite.  Small.  Steep mountain slopes surrounding us and several  gazillion dollars properties.  We dropped anchor in just under 15 feet of clear, water, Jim watching the anchor descend and hit the bottom.  
We; Jim, I, Jim and Cindy all took a dip… I didn't actually ‘swim’ but … it’s on the bucket list, near the top…
We had anchor beverages with Jim and Cindy on Splash… sharing more stories.  And swapping farmers market pies, having each only eaten a small portion… they ‘looked’ better than they tasted…
securing to the mooring ball
The anchor had a constant sea swell, rolling us about so on to the next bay.

We then spent 2 days / nights in Hawksnest Bay.  The setting was ideal.  Several sandy beaches, coconut palms providing shade.  Only a few boats in the bay, mostly day trippers.  The mooring balls are owned and operated by the U.S. National Park Service, $15.00 overnight charge.  Swim or dinghy to the raft pay station.  Fill out card, deposit payment.  Enjoy. We did.  

the National Park Service 'pay station'





We saw numerous sea turtles swimming around the bay as well as the ‘ricochet’  birds.  We have no idea yet what they are called but they swoop down for fish, skid just under the surface of the water and pop back up numerous feet later.  Very impressive. 
sharks 


I had Jim toss overboard a few pieces of fruit that were a bit overripe when …. Geez  !  The water burst to life.  The resident fish and sharks had made our boat shadow a temporary home.  Slipping out every now and then… anymore treats?  The sharks are quite unusual looking.  Well, we think they are sharks… not having much experience with salt water critters.  They seem to either have gills and a mouth on the top of their heads or they swim upside down…  We have several hanging around, about 3 feet long.  Although we aren't suppose to feed the wildlife, it’s hard not to let a piece of bread ‘fall’ overboard to watch them come to life.

We spent some time on shore enjoying the beach scene.  We took several dips in the warm water before heading home.  It is one of the few places were we can hear the waves breaking on shore.  A lovely repetitive sound but this anchorage proved to be quite roll'y as well so next up, Leinster Bay. 

Happy Thanksgiving!    Nov. 26.15
Several firsts for us today.  Snorkeling on Thanksgiving. It was bit overcast but we saw numerous fish, although the coral is a bit drab and sparse.  Many areas appear to be dead.  sad.…
Happy Thanksgiving: Cindy, Jim (hers) and Jim (mine)
Then,  prepping for Thanksgiving dinner in a swim suit.  A good trade; swim suit for shovel.  
Not spending the day with family was unfortunate but one of the things we have to accept with our new lives. 



We have been traveling with our friends Jim and Cindy the last week.  They have become great friends and companions.  Tonight we shared a traditional (almost) Thanksgiving meal together.  Turkey (cooked in the pressure cooker), squash, beets, stuffing and my Jim’s soon to be famous Chocolate Mousse.  We played a couple games of euchre, sharing the wins.  The sun far below the horizon, ‘Splash’ headed for home.  



We are leaving Jim and Cindy on their own today (Nov 27) to tuff it out here in the Islands.   We have to head back to Charlotte Amalie to prep the boat for sitters John and Sue and we need to pack for our trip north.  Snow soon in our forecast.  

Nov 27- 30
Local fisherman
We decided to anchor in Brewers Bay, St. Thomas, USVI.  The anchor is next to the airport.  A great location for people needing flights to and from the USVI’s.  John and Sue (boat sitters) fly in Sunday (30 / we fly out Dec 1)… 

We wake daily with turtles and fish(es), pelicans… doing what they do…  a few other boats.  One a bit too close for our comfort…
There is airplane noise but only a few during ‘high’ times bringing more ‘fish’ to their vacations.  

Brewers Bay is mostly quiet.  A short, steep walk up a hill and a few more steps down and we catch the ‘Safari’ to town.  We packed up the laundry and headed for shore.  Caught the Safari to Crown Bay / Nisky Center where I did laundry while Jim when in search of a regulator and a solenoid for the stove which decided to quite working  … Jim’s journey took him to Red Hook a neighboring town to Budget Marine where he found a replacement regulator, no solenoid.  He crossed the street to catch a Safari back but NONE would stop for him… ??? 30 + minutes later, he asked a ‘local’.. 
“do you know the trick to getting a taxi to stop”… 
‘yup’
???,  “ OK, can you tell me?
‘yup…’      ‘they only go in ONE direction around the island… (once you leave Charlotte Amalie) you have to ride the entire route around the island, counter clock wise…’  28 or so miles…
OK… so he crosses back over to the proper taxi side, which by the way is the ‘wrong’ side… they drive on the LEFT side of the road in ALL of the Virgin Islands… and soon catches a Safari… nearly 3 hours after beginning his escapade, he finds me with clean laundry and we head back home… 
Back aboard (fixing our boat AGAIN, this time at least in exotic places… he installs the new regulator… 
doesn't work  !!!
Check the old solenoid (again) doesn't work.  check the gas line… nothing coming through… hmm.  getting somewhere at least, finding what does / doesn't work.  He used the air pump to force air through the line, rechecked the regulator and wha-la!  We have gas  =  fire… but we have to by pass the solenoid ( a safety switch) … because it is bad…   Not another one to be found on the island  … 2 weeks on back order.  
Not the best solution but, we can cook and… so can our awesome boat sitters!  

Sue and John
Professional Boat Sitters 
We organized things for John and Sues arrival and packed for our departure.  It’s really hard to think ‘cold’ when sweat is dripping from your nose and blurring your vision.   
Unfortunately ‘Chris’ told us the forecast was to bring a ‘highly unusual rain event’… we could expect 1 1/2 inches of rain over the next couple days…  Note to self, it’s NOT snow…
It rained most of  Saturday and part of Sunday… twice having to pump the dinghy to keep the pontoons from getting submerged.   

John and Sue’s plane was on time, they caught a cab to the Bay.  Jim met them on shore and dinghy’d them ‘home’.  John, nearly immediately produced his new bushiness cards… he told us he was having them made but we though he was pulling our leg…

John (Sue) Green:  (contact information) 
Professional Boat Sitters… 
Anywhere, Anytime…
One weeks notice!!!  
… We are calling dibs on future 'sitting dates' … 

We spent the afternoon getting acquainted with each other and them with the boat.  I’m sure we overwhelmed them with procedures, it being our home and not just another charter boat…  They made us feel very comfortable leaving out ‘baby’ in quite capable hands.  

John and Sue manage a number of housing units in the Hamilton / Toronto, Canada area. They are use to dealing with ‘issues’ and solving them.  John is also in construct and knows how to ‘fix’ things… Sue was one of Canada’s first women firefighters and is very capable at problem solving and dealing with responsibility as well.  We are confident our home will be well care for.  

The time passed quickly that night and the next day… we had made ‘cheat sheets’  for John and Sue to reference later …  if they plan to ‘use’ the boat…  they need to know how to operate it and the systems as well.  Dinner: crab cakes and fresh fruit / veggie slaw.  John helping in the galley!  He LOVEs to cook… 
The view from Lindburg Bay Hotel and Villas ...

Monday:  Jim decided we should ‘get a room’ at a hotel the night before heading to see family and friends.  Read: unlimited fresh water shower… a big bed…. air conditioning…
I LOVE our boat but … I do miss a few creature comforts… 
showers:  I / we have only had one … 1 … O N E ‘proper’ shower in the last month…. 
So, we booked a room at the Lindberg Bay Hotel and Villa’s… adjacent to the airport. The place was such a treat.  The ceiling so high we couldn't touch it, even of we jumped!  A bed we could both climb in to from our different side… T.V. (all bad news),  good WIFI included !!!! 
I took a shower that probably used more water than all my ‘basin baths' over the last month… combined.  I AM SALT FREE !!! Don't misunderstand… I LOVE our boat… I LOVE our new lives… but … there are a number of things that I used to take for granted that are now a luxury… decadent… 

After indulging in refrigerated air and long showers… we forced ourselves to the bar / restaurant for complimentary drinks… followed by dinner and … more drinks.  The bartender, Jeremy, lives on his boat in a nearby harbor.  He sailed here from France, twice, as well as the return trip to France. 
Then we met Julie… an airline stewardess, based more or less here on St. Thomas.  ‘I’d LOVE to boat sit for you…’   we swapped emails just incase … 
Our tummies full, our heads fuzzy, we made the trek up the steps to our room.  Time: just shy of boater’s midnight.  

Blogging, e' shopping for boat parts, curling up under covers because I set the air too low (78 degrees’)… we are counting our blessings;  again.