Charlevoix - Beaver Island - Mackinac Bridge - St Ignace

Beaver Island / CMU Research Station

Power boat with beautiful reflections during the Golden Hour

25 June  2015


We left Oyster Bay, Charlevoix with clear skies and cool temps.  Made the bridge with 10 minutes to spare.  Headed northwest to Beaver Island.  Pretty uneventful passage.  A combination of sailing and motor sailing.
Same sailing clothes as yesterday: leggings, wind breaker pants, teeshirt, sweatshirt, foul-weather jacket, smart wool socks ...
ohhh... and sun screen !





Arrival late afternoon.  Anchored.  took a breather then off to shore.  Tried to look up an old friend but he was off Island.
Sorry we missed you Eric!
So we headed to the Shamrock, the local watering hole and all around meeting place.  We had a delicious burger.

After, we took a stroll down the Municipal Marina docks to chat with some other sailors we had seen back in Charlevoix.  Ward and Jeane aboard Jeane Marie, a Mason 44 S/V.

26 June

Grey's Reef Light

We headed out from Beaver Island by 7:30am  bound for St. Ignace by way of Grey's Reef.  It is the main shipping channel for freighters going from Lake Huron to southern Lake Michigan.  We saw plenty of freighters.  One dive boat with divers in the water just west of  The Bridge (water temps mid 50'... you got to really want to dive to go  in water that cold).  .  A check of the charts told us there was a wreck there.  Looking closer at the charts, the whole area is strewn with ship wrecks... None a hazard to navigation due to depths though.
I realized today that we have seen almost NO garbage on the Lakes this year.  A first for us.  we usually see plastic of some sort on every passage or daysail, hourly.
Hope that's a sign of things to come...  

Friehgters ...

more frieghters ...

and more freighters ...

We crossed under the Bridge about 1:30pm...

It is pretty cool from down under ....

you can hear the cars overhead on the grating part of the lanes...  see them too 

Rounding can #3 , a fisherman pulling in nets

26 June  2015

So happy for so many reasons tonight 

Affordable Care Act

Marriage Equality

Being able to Live the Dream 

26 - 27 June  2015

Upon or arrival at the marina yesterday, we were told that St. Ignace is hosting their annual car show.  Interesting... however, we only planned to stay the night and head to the Les Cheneaux Islands on the south east coast of the U.P. Saturday.  we have a package arriving by US mail Saturday and then we are off.  

We walked around town and saw the many, many cars arriving.  Mostly vintage but 'souped' up in some way.  We had a nice dinner at the Gangplank restaurant and made it back to the boat just as the Car Parade started... we had pretty good seat from the cockpit of the boat.  Friends Ward and Jeane (S.V. Jeane Marie) joined us as well.

27 th   

Jim got up early to head to the post office to get our package only to discover they were closed for the entire day!  We had called earlier in the week to inquire their hours and asking them to hold a package for us ... they neglected to tell us they closed Friday at noon and all day Saturday for the Car Show... 

now what ?  We brainstormed for quite while but decided we would not stay through the weekend (2 more nights) to get a package.  we needed plan B... So we found the Harbor Master, Tim, and explained our predicament.  He scratched his head then says... "Ya know, Andy (the post master) is working the Animal Shelter Booth.  I'll just give him a call and see if we can work something out."   ????   !!!!!  You have to love small towns... Tim and Andy came through for us and "someone" met Jim at the Post Office in the afternoon to let us get our package...  thank you!

So, with the afternoon nearly gone, we stayed another night.  We took advantage of the time and reorganized a few things aboard.  Picked up a few groceries.  Had a nice nap and of course checked out more of the Car Show.  Jim and I are not 'car aficionados' but is was really cool.  The main street through town, U.S. 2, was closed for about 2 miles to through traffic.  The cars lined both sides of the streets.  Estimates say about 50,000  people attended.  Nearly 600 cars!  This is a serious hobby!  Prizes were awarded late afternoon.                                                                                

We happened upon a sweet looking 1957 Jaguar... owned by Dave...   He let us sit in it.   Jim was a bit cramped though...                                                                          Dave actually drove it here from Lewiston, Mi.  About 75 miles south and east of here.  He even won one of the prizes for his entry.

We "dined" at B.C. Pizza .... my absolute FAVORITE pizza (so far) in the world.... Who knows when I'll get some again... I savored every bite!

The cars are headed for home and we are back aboard trying to finish the "excess" booze we have before entering Canada in a few days (read daze) so we can avoid any penalties.  

Another, different, sort of... topic.... Over the last few days we have been conversing with Jan (sounds like John with a Y ) from Germany.  He is our former exchange students brother, from Germany... He inquired if we would like  'crew'  for the summer ! Holy smokes... yes!  He is a very accomplished sailor and super fun to be around.  Loves to travel and... apparently doesn't mind spending his summer vacation with  'old(er)  people' !  so, he arrives mid July and will stay aboard till the end of August... What fun for us all....  

BTW ... Rose, you are off the hook for handling those 'Erie Canal' lines since Jan will be with ....

So with the boat reorganized, packages acquired, projects caught up on, provisions stowed.... we'll cast off dock line tomorrow bound for the Les Cheneaux Islands, in da U.P.  eh ....

After that:  Canada and no phones for weeks... ugggh .... only text or email .... 

  

Leland -South Manitou Island - Charlevoix MI

Leland MI / South Manitou Island :  June 21

Jim helping Bob land a carp 

Shortly after our arrival in Leland, we noticed several men setting up at the marina pier to fish.  We didn't think much of it.  It is 'fish town' after all.  As mentioned before we had dinner with Aubrieta and her sister Julie then we called it a night.  It was peacful and foggy.  Jim left for the showers around 7:30 am and was surprised to see one the fishermen still at it.  He had been there ALL night catching carp in the fog so thick the end of the pier was invisible.  He is one of a 'cult' of guys that catch carp for fun.... catch and release.  Jim helped him land one... It was pretty big. And ugly.  Jim chatted with Bob Butz the fisherman AKA  writer.  Someone new for our  reading list.  Kind of cool who you meet out here. We sent him a coffee and he was most appreciative.

Leland

Stormin' Norman with Inishnee in the background

North Manitou Shoal Light House 

         

 After a check of the weather we decided to head for South Manitou.  We made decent time to the island and had our choice of the anchorage.  We found our sweet spot and dropped the hook.  After making sure we were secure to the bottom we sat back and admired the view.  A bit later, off on the horizon another sailboat.  They took a spot near us.  We prepped the dingy for a shore excursion then introduced ourselves to our neighbors, Jim and Francis of Minnehaha from Wisconsin.  Then off to shore.

Fog bank rolling in.   'Chicago Road'  S. Manitou

Pollel Campground Beach / fog 

We hiked to Popple campground/ beach.  About 5.5 miles round trip.  We heard it had a great view of the north island and a beautiful beach.  It was a nice hike but the fog was so thick we didn't see much off shore.

Old barn, timber more than 2 feet thick

South Manitou has an interesting history.  Early on it was a stop over for Great Lakes ships due to it's natural harbor.  As time went on, it became an important ecosystem for growing seeds for crops.  Due to its location off shore the seeds don't get contaminated from the mainland and therefor produce a pure strain of the mother seed.  There are a number of farms, somewhat intact, on the island as well as a maintained lighthouse, nature center and an old school house.

Island anchorage 

Hauling up the anchor with bugs swarming

sun setting to the west.... somewhere out there is shore 

Upon returning to the boat, we checked the weather and confirmed an earlier report of strong winds for Monday.  So much for the Manitous... But at least Jim got his Father's Day wish of a hike on the island.


Within an hour of our return from our hike the entire harbor fogged in.  We couldn't see shore ... had we delayed at all, we would have been stranded on shore, the boat cloaked in fog




June 22

Prentiss Brown / Tug pushing a barge kind of thing 

Our neighbors were up and gone shortly after 6am. We followed just after 7.  It was an interesting sail.  Some motoring as well.  Wind, no wind, fog, and then ...
We had our first hail on the VHF via AIS... The AIS allows us to 'see' other boats and be 'seen' electronically.  It broadcasts our boat information and we receive other ship information from those that carry the technology.  Not a requirement but another safety feature we choose to install.  The captain of the Prentiss Brown (a tug boat hailed us just off Charlevoix via AIS / VHF.   They can call us by name instead of ' hey you ... sail boat)... Yeah you .... We are heading your way and... Blah blah blah.... '.  He asked us to give him some leeway as he was pushing a barge and had limited mobility.  Good information to know!  It was kind of cool have Him call Us by name.

2 ships passing (we hope!) 

Charlevoix
We had to push hard to make the 2:30pm bridge which only opens on the half hour.  We were cutting it close when we hear 'hooonk hooonk' .... Oh jeez ... The Emerald Isle (the ferry to Beaver Island) is coming under the bridge and through the channel toward us... Yikes!  How the heck wide it she... the channel ... can we both fit....  'Jim... You need to steer ! '
There was room but man it sure looked close.

Pretty darn close

Around the corner we took a slip at the municipal marina for the 'big blow'... Several other boats were here to wait it out as well including the Minnehaha from South Manitou.  With help, we got into the slip minutes before the rain hit.   As it turned out, the winds were much diminished from the predictions and it skated through quickly.  Showers and dinner and a walk about town.
We met some other cruisers on the dock. Ben, Chris and their dog Coco. They winter in South Carolina and summer here in northern Michgan on their boat. We hope to look them up when we pass through there.  The night brought several bouts of wind and a few gusts but nothing troublesome at the dock.

June 23

Mom (Helen) visiting !  91 years young and still going strong 

Cool and cloudy gave way to pleasant and sunny.  A bit of laundry and some errands and then .... Mom Haskill (Kathy's mom Helen) came for the afternoon with her entourage !... Uncle Ed, Eddie and Joshua.  We visited on the boat before heading off to dinner in town.  All too soon it was time for them to head back to Johannesburg, my hometown.  Another goodbye. (sad face, teary eyes)

June 24
O M G !!!!  It feels like summer!     Today we decided to take a vacation and be 'fudgies' for a while (fudgies : an up north term for tourist because they HAVE to buy some fudge while in northern Michigan) ... We used the marina bikes to tour the town.  A ride down Belvedere Drive to Lake Charlevoix and it's shoreline.  Peddling past the grand ole' houses on the hill, the Belvedere Club, then back around to the famous 'Mushroom Houses' near the harbor entrance.  We made a stop at John Cross's  Fishery, family owned since 1945.  So glad we stopped!  I am not a fan of fish... but I'm working on it.  We bought 3-Fish Spread and Smoked Norwegian Salmon. It was amazing!  If you happen to be in the area.... check it out... Fantastic!  They do all the smoking on site.
With the bikes returned and us back on board we headed for Oyster Bay in Lake Charlevoix.  About 3 miles from the marina / downtown area.  It is super peaceful.  Again, we had our choice of the anchorage.  The summer cruising season has not started here yet.  We enjoyed 75 + degree temps!

The mushroom houses 

For dinner we took the dingy back to Charlevoix and walked to Grey Gables.  We had heard about the restaurant from numerous locals as well as other boaters... but,  go for the "early bird special' before 6 ... OK, kind of early for dinner but we did and it was fabulous.  Every night they run a special 'the early bird' for $44.00... this includes choice of 2 organic salads, 1 of 3 entrees', desert and a bottle of wine!  The food was phenomenal and you can't beat the price.  The restaurant appears to be an old boarding house.  multiple rooms make for semi private dinning.  Linens, candles and chandeliers. Pretty fancy for us but glad we went.

Grey Gables 

Back aboard, it is cozy and warm.  We are hoping to see the Northern Lights tonight.  They have been lighting the skies for 2 nights straight up here!  Unfortunately, clouds the first night and city lights the second interfered with our viewing.  fingers crossed.  No light pollution out here but the clouds are moving in. grrrr
Tomorrow we head for Beaver Island and the Shamrock...


A side note.  The Charlevoix Municipal Marina is run by Hal and his crew.  They are all amazing.  Friendly, helpful, polite.  The facility is top notch.   But Hal,  He is one of a kind.  We dubbed him the City Ambassador.  One Hal of a guy ...  He had tips on everything to do, eat and see while in town and was spot on with it all.  Thanks Hal !

Heck of a ride...

Pentwater

17 June 2015

Tuesday.  We had a heck of a ride.  Weather report said 15-20 knots out of the north,  just where we were headed.  Temps in the mid 50's.  Water 47 degrees.  Sun shining.  We bundled up, and headed out.  Life jackets on.
In hopes of making some ground with the 'somewhat' favorable wind, we headed off shore hoping to round Little Sable Point with only one tack.

 

Livin' the dream 

Over 20 miles and 4 1/2 hours later... We made the waypoint and changed our heading toward Pentwater....  only 7 miles to the good so far.  The waves had grown from 2 - 3's to consistant 4's with a few extras every now and then just for fun...  The wind was fairly consistent at 18- 20 knots, on the nose.  We were taking green water over the bow constantly with copious amounts funneling into the cockpit... for several hours.  It was pretty amazing.  Just as we would get up to speed (4.5 knots) we would hit head on to a considerable wave and it would just about stop the boat...  We found a few new minor leaks but the boat did great!
Our  original  30 mile voyage  turned into 10 hours and over 60 miles ....
Wind on the nose the whole time.
We are livin' the dream!
Exhausted and through the pier head, we hailed the marina and took a berth at Snug Harbor, Pentwater.  Long, hot showers then dinner at the Antler Bar (the horneiest bar in Michigan! ) helped to rejuvenate the crew.

Arcadia sunset 

Wednesday we were met with calm seas and little wind.  More motoring but the sun was out and the flies were not.  We passed several ships, a tug boat and a few pleasure craft.  It was a relativly easy jaunt to Arcadia.  A shallow inlet.  Very peaceful.  We had the bay to ourselves.  Oven casserole helped to warm the cabin.  Eva Cassidy accompanied us through dinner.

Boaters midnight (9:00) then sunset and we were still up!  Grateful for this opportunity...

Thursday

Frankfort Light 

We left Acadia late morning and attempted to sail.  Flat seas. Little wind.  2 knots / hr would put us into Frankfort  .... Never ?   So, sails furled and engine on.  Rain threatening all around.   Fog crept in.  We estimated visibility about 2 miles since the 'boat' on AIS was 2.5 miles away and couldn't be seen.  We secured the boat at Jacobson's Marina just as the fog enveloped the harbor.  Visibility, one boat length at best.  A ship sounding it's horn numerous times alerting others of it's arrival was a bit eerie. It made it's way past the marina and docked, all the while shrouded in fog.
An hour or so later, the fog cleared out.  Sun shining.
Hot showers and a call to a friend in the area meant a good chat and bonus photo shoot.  Aubrieta is an amazing landscape photographer and calls northern Michigan her home away from home.  Her images can be found in numerous shops in the area.
She was gracious enough to give a lift to the grocery store and back.  We had dinner aboard, grilled tuna steaks and veggies.  Finished with fresh, up-north strawberries and ice cream.

Then the 'golden hour' was upon us... On deck, Aubrieta was snapping pictures of the boat and us.  The other dock mates must have thought we were  'somebody'  because they were taking pictures of Aubrieta taking pictures of us.... Tooooo funny.



Friday we took the marina bikes around town.  Jim's bike had a wet seat.  Consequently when he disembarked... a wet fanny.  He was tempted to ask a store clerk where to find the Depends....

Wing and Wind off Sleeping Bear Dunes

Tonight's dinner at  'Fusion'.  We've heard numerous reports that this sleepy little hamlet has a secret hidden behind their doors.  It more than lived up to it's reputation.  the food was superior.  the service was great.  the setting was beautiful.  The prices reasonable.  We finished the evening with a movie.  Spy.  pretty darn funny.  Rated R.  upon reflection (spoiler alert)  there were NO nude women scenes of any kind ... quite a few 'f' bombs though .... go see it if you aren't too offended by language and some  ~

Saturday.
We are off to South Manitous Island!  ...   Not.
Once again mother nature is messing around with us and our repeated attempts to get to the Manitous.   The wind is forecast to be out of the east (bad for anchoring out there).  We have tried to sail / anchor there every time we have gone through this passage.  At least 5 times!  Every time we are thwarted! Bad weather, wind from the east, engine trouble, fog, inadequate gound tackle (anchor)...
so we are heading to Leland.   Fish town.  Smoked White Fish sausage on the table tonight.

I love my little garden !

Before leaving Frankfort, we went to the farmers market to get some herbs and maybe some treats.  Instead I bought a garden...  It is so awesome!  Parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme.  Makes you want to break into song doesn't it?  It will be interesting to see if I can keep them alive for any period of time.  I have NO green thumb.  My parents and siblings confiscated it all before I came about... I have even killed rhubarb.  But the price was the same for cut fresh herbs as it was for the garden so.  we'll see.

The garden is stowed in the sink while underway and we are off.  sunny.  warm.  lovely east wind.    yippee!  this could be at the best sailing day so far this season.

Only one long sleeve shirt on.  the Lake is flat.  contemplating the spinnaker but decide on wing and wing: sails offset to each other.  nice for down wind sailing.

Projects ... new preventer line for the boom 

3 hours later.  no wind.  sails down.  then 18 knots from the west and clouds building.  a bit of rain. So on with the rain gear sipping some hot cocoa-coffee.  temps have taken a nose dive again.  sails up.  wind all but dies.  then more motor sailing.  cloudy.... all in about and hours time.  Jim loves to sail this boat though so he doesn't seem to mind too much about the up and down with sails with the fickle wind.
He has the sail plan rigged really well and continues to come up with new contraptions for making the rigging and sail handling go easier and efficiently.

We made port and the Leland Municipal Marina dock hands were incredible with line handling for tie up.  thank you!
Aubrieta came back tonight with her sister Julie in tow visiting from the East Coast.  Dinner aboard and great conversation again.

dinner with friends 

The Journey begins ...

15 June 2015

the  'Wednesdays'  at Spectators

This last week has been filled meeting with friends and tying up loose ends.
For more years than we care to count, we have had a standing Wednesday dinner date with friends.  We met at different restaurants from Saugatuck, Fennville and Holland.   ALL the 'Wednesday's ' came this week.  Back where it all started years ago... Spectators.  In the beginning, their were just 3 of us. Over time, the  'Wednesday''s'  grew.  Not everyone came every week but every once in a while...all 16 made it!

Sandy and Carrie

So we have closed our remaining accounts, sold all the vehicles, cancelled car insurance, the last of the 'ducks' are in order.

Before we new it, it was Sunday the 14th,  Departure day.  1pm.  Best'ie Carrie came along for the first leg of the ride as well as Sandy.  The crew had a toast to the voyage,  slipped Neptune and Poisiden a bit of grog to ward off Mischief and Mayham.
Jim's 'harem' cast off the lines and we were off.
 

We're off ...

We are ready !

It had been a misty, ok rainy, Saturday and into Sunday but sister Sunshine popped out to see us off as did a few dock mates.  Lake Michgan was peacful and the shoreline shrouded in sheetlets of fog.  The course was set for Port Sheldon.  Chris (the auto pilot) took over the steering.  The girls slipped a bit more grog in the glasses while Jim kept a lookout.  It was a pleasant ride with good conversation.  With  3  1/2 hours and just over 5 miles under our keel, we fired up the iron jeeny, boat-talk for engine, and made better time.  The fog got the better of us and the radar was employed.  Port Sheldon off to starboard, course change and through the channel we headed.  We had the anchorage to ourselves.  We set the anchor and readied the dingy for a trip to shore.  Dinner at Sandy Point restaurant.  Janis met us for dinner then gave the departing crew a ride home.  Returning to the dingy we discovered the boat was gone!   Not really, it was shrouded in fog.  The white hull surrounded  by the thick fog made it nearly invisible.
Monday morning dawned to more fog so we got a late start... nearly noon.  White Lake the destination.  Aproximatly 30 miles.  Little to no wind meant more motoring.  Within a couple hours, the fog too thick to see much beyond our noses so back to the radar for navigation.
We had LOTS of practice with radar last summer currcumnaviagting Lake Michigan for 6 weeks.  We feel pretty comfortable with it now.

I made the most of the time below, watching the radar and making pasta sauce for spaghetti dinner tonight.  Sudden blips appearing on the radar turned out to be fishing nets.  One boat motored out of the fog off the port side then headed north to pass forward of us.  A bit too close for our comfort though.

Today's 'fly' report.... Yes, they are out here.  In the fog.  Keeping us company.  At least they are the non biters today. Thank you ...
I inadvertently made a 'fly trap' by asking Jim to hang the red dish cloth on the lifeline to dry.... Grooooosss !


Text exchange between Jim and Rose & Dave  (aboard ReRun making for Frankfort also swatting flies, dodging boats and fishing nets in the fog today ...)
Jim:  tonight I'm drinking to all the flies that died today...
Rose:  ... and thankful we didn't (die) ...

Dinner ... sans flies !

We approached the harbor with no visuals.  Fog completely enveloping the entrance.  (Very thankful for the chart plotter and radar! )  We were 2 to 3 boat lengths from  where we thought the pier head should be.... I'm on the bow searching desperately !!!!  Finally a shadowy image to the starboard side.... it's a pier head ... but which one?  It looks red.... I think it's a triangle .... then the north channel marker looms to the port side.... we are positioned to enter the channel.... wheeew !
White Lake ahead.  We can make out the shore line.
Anchor down.   Flies hosed off.   Dinner served.

Next port :
   Pentwater,  MI.
Shopping list :
    2 new fly swatters!