Heading up island: Grenada, Carriacou and Bequia

Heading Up Island…

Tobago to Grenada, Carriacou and Bequia

Jan 3-4, 2017

St George, Grenada

We left Tobago late afternoon, 4:30pm headed for Grenada.  We had deployed a lot of rode due to the anchorage depths.  We carry 150 feet of chain and 150 (spliced) line.  My first job was to assist with the recovery of the anchor line by pulling it through the chain well and feed it into its compartment for stowage.  Neither Jim nor I noticed the hackle in the line being pulled  into the windless… frick!  With it thoroughly jammed, Jim had to disassemble the windless, rig a line from the rode to a winch and crank and crank, creaks and groans from the extreme tension on the line threatening disaster … but it pulled free before breaking.  The winch back together we attempted another lift, this time, no hick ups.  The anchor up and stowed by 5:30… an hour behind schedule.  

Some of the BIG boats here

Our remaining overnight passage was uneventful.  Good wind; 15 -20 knots.  Flying fish, shooting stars, some offshore fishing vessels.  Bioluminescence in our wake.  14 hours with reefs in the main and jib.  We dropped the hook in 12 feet of clear water off the capital,  St. George, Grenada.   

Jan 4-8

The boat secure, we headed to customs at Port Louie Marina.  Many of the staff remembered us with a nice welcome back.  It was really nice having been here before, we didn't need to go through the usual search and find mission to locate the officials / offices, find the busses and learn the routes, ‘good’ grocery shopping, chandlery etc.  Our timing even coincided with the monthly book exchange the day we arrived.  Grenada has a lot of modern conventioneer for cruisers, the chandlery being quite good, we were able to get several parts that had been hard to find since leaving Trinidad 3 months ago.  We just couldn't part with the cash for the 50% markup (fees / taxes/ duty, etc)for the generator Jim has been coveting….

We made a huge (not to be confused with yuuge since we actually have the receipt to prove our depleted bank account) shopping trip to the ‘american style’ grocery store to replenish the dwindling pantry items.  We went to the fresh market in St. George for spices, veggies etc. and one of favorite treats; soursop ice cream.  Again, we were met with warm greeting by the proprietors we had come to frequent last spring; many tossing in a little something extra for making purchases with them.  Fresh tuna at $3.00 a pound: fish tacos one night and grilled with sesame seeds another.   Time to move on…

Jan 8 - 24

Carriacou, Grenada.  We left Grenada the morning of the 8th, Sunday, our sailplane giving a wide berth to avoid Kick’em Jenny, the underwater volcano that tends to create big swells; the seafloor is elevated in that area.  ‘She’ has not posed a threat to cruisers for many years regarding an eruption however.  Going agains the waves and wind which are predicable are from the north and east, it was still a fast, bumpy ride.  En-route Jim noticed a reefing line, which was in use at the time, had a section that was frayed and about to break so he rigged another line to secure it… then he noticed the jib had fabric ripping!  There was too much wind and big seas to go forward to get a good look at the damage so we rolled the headsail in.  The main was given some assistance by some iron wind from the engine and we continued on, making Carriacou by late afternoon, plenty of time to find a nice spot to anchor and turn our attention to happy hour with friends already in the bay.  Just as we entered the outer fleet of anchored boats we lost the transmission!  No propulsion and boats all around, Jim dashed to the foredeck and dropped the anchor to avoid a collision… but we were precariously close to 4 other boats, their captains taking note off our position… not all together pleased; understandably.   

Getting a tow

After assessing the situation and deeming we had made the boat as secure as we could, Jim first snorkeled on the anchor to see if it was set (it was in lovely sand), then proceeded to each of our new neighbors for inform then of or predicament and apologies for the inconvenience.  They could not have been more understanding… lots of fenders were placed on all boats and  each let our more anchor chain for a wider berth.  Our friends, Tom and Sabrina, s/v Honey Rider, were one of ‘new’ neighbors.  A number of volunteers offered to tow us to a better location but night would be upon us in less than an hour, we would take the tow in the morning.  

It was not the most peaceful sleep contemplating our situation, but, knowing we have a spare transmission if needed… in a trailer in Michigan… under many feet of snow…brought some comfort.  The calvary showed up after breakfast.  Tom went to fend off anyone who might want our new anchor location.  Jason (s/v Blue Blaze) and Mark (s/v Liahona) with their dinghies on the each side of Inishnee propelled us through the maze of masts to where Tom was waiting.  We dropped the anchor…  Many, many thanks to our friends 

Jim and Jason

Now to figure out what was wrong with the transmission…. We were in great hands.  Jason and Jim both very handy with mechanical / electrical issues but we also had a ringer!  Mark, in his former life was a member of pit crew for high performance race cars.  He has diagnosed and rebuilt hundreds of engines.  Jason, Mark and Jim conferred, poked and listened to the engine… the consensus: check the damper drive for the engine / transmission.  Jim and Jason were soon up to their forearms in the engine compartment.  A couple of sweat filled hours and they had the damper plate out and discovered it was broken.  The part in hand, Jim took it ashore in search of a replacement.  He was directed to York, a German mechanic living and working on the island.  He was pretty sure he had least 2 used, probably 3 ‘somewhere’ in his junk parts pile.  He’d need a day or so to locate it.  ?Could it be that easy?… The next day Jim was back at York’s and he had found the part.  Jason and Jim soon had it reassembled and we fired up the engine… It started fine,  shifting into forward good…. then reverse… yikes, it was like throwing bolts in blender… a terrible racket.  So, the part came out again. Jim exchanged the drive for #2 and it was installed…  The part held and the gears shifted fine with no load.   The next day we took it out for a test under load and it worked great.  whew… 4 days after the breakdown we were ready to go again…

Next project: the sail repair. The sail loft is relocating so we decided to wait on replacing the torn UV cover… 

tasty and lovely too

Jason and Laura came over to celebrate with us and brought some grilled lion fish Laura had speared just hours ago.  She also gifted me some fins to make jewelry from!  Yeah… Lion fish are threatening the eco systems of the reefs throughout caribbean.  Many places are actively seeking out volunteers to hunt them.  Restaurants are featuring them on the menu.  Fishermen are getting good prices for them in the markets fortunately.  Many women are supplementing the incomes by making jewelry, necklaces and earrings, from the colorful spines of the fins… The venom is found in the spines but rendered neutral when treated with heat…

The weather window for traveling north was a few days off.  The North Swell is here.  During the winter months, storms and cold fronts from the U.S. create swells, large rolling waves, that travel south through the island chain.   In an anchorage it can be very uncomfortable… the boat will roll from side to side.  which is what we were experiencing.  Taking the lead from ‘Blue Blaze’ Jim rigged a line from the the anchor rode, released more chain then brought the line back to the rear of the boat and cleated it off.  He then slowly winched it in…slowly, very slowly the boat began to come around and point into the waves, riding with the bow into the swell. A very comfortable motion.  The swell was predicted to stick around for several days.   

Levi

Sabrina

So, time we had time to take in a few island activities:  open mike night at Levi’s, dinner ashore at the Lazy Turtle and Margies…  

a shopping day in Hillsborough with the girls; Laura and Sabrina made a purchase of live lobster at the fish market. 

We took in several cricket matches in Hillsborough over the weekend.  Saturday the teams were local villages playing against each other.  3 games.  Our friends from England were quite helpful in helping us sort out the game.  The following day Carriacou played visiting island teams from Petite Martinique and Union Island.   The games were more boisterous with ‘real’ rivals.  Great fun to watch.  

Never too young

Jim made a purchase of his own… He finally bit the bullet and bought a honda generator.  Our electrical needs are not being met by the solar and wind power we have so we have to run the engine daily to charge the batteries, which are the all important life support for the refrigerator  and my ice cubes for happy hour.…  He went to the Budget Marine office to inquire about one… they would put it on the boat today coming from Grenada and we would have it this afternoon.  A we did.  

We were sitting in the cockpit discussing our departure plans for the next day when Arawak Divers put out a call for 2 dives for $20 US… Jim couldn’t resist.  He had a great time with the  new owners of Arawak, Peter and Shannon.  So much so, he was convinced ‘I’ should get my certification here… now…  After a small bit of cajoling… I agreed.  

Before ...

Our departure was put off several more days to accommodate the classes… Jim would get free dives as part of the deal.  What a great time… well, all but the emergency assent skill test… but, I am certified now!  It really is quite awesome seeing the aquarium specimens in the own environment… Of the many cool things we saw, the very memorable were: large spiny lobsters, lion fish, a nurse shark, lots of eels, a huge parrot fish… and large, colorful, healthy coral!

After....

It's official !!!

Bequia

Jan 24 - 30

… we do need to get a move on.  So we finally hauled up the anchor January 24 and headed for Bequia… a pleasant day sail.  

We spent several relaxing days there.  Feeling right at home.  The local vendors remembered us here as well.  We met up with the crews of s/v StarGazer, Mike and Sandy and s/v Fannie B: Ned and Carol, for dinner.  Also, friends aboard Katherian, Donna and Jack.  

While sitting in Maria’s Cafe writing this post, I had an opportunity to speak with the owner, Andy.  He sponsors Bequia Youth Sailing here on the island.  I had been curious about how the young men and for that matter the traveling cricket players are able to sail in competitions or play games in other countries… assuming they have no passports… He confirmed that in most cases the sailors / players do not have passports.  The caribbean islands however have an agreement to sponsor teams for other islands / countries; a letter on introduction accompanying them as well as valid id’s.  The Bequia Yuth Sailors have even traveled as far north as Puerto Rico but needed letters to / from the US government acknowledging this.  They traveled by plane to reach Puerto Rico which is quite costly for the travelers so they need benefactors to sponsor them… It has been a real challenge for the young sailors and consequently their members have dwindled over the years.  He is still hopeful the tradition will continue.  

  

But, we are very behind schedule… Tom is flying into St. Tomas in March continuing on with us to Puerto Rico to meet Alex and Nicki and their girls… ages 1 and 3!  We have to get moving… there are going to be a LOT of overnight, long passages ahead and we have to stop in Martinique and St. Martin for mail and parts… and maybe a bit of fun

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Miniature boat building in Bequia

Laundry service

Our bill... not much over head

KAthy and Sannon pre dive

Tom and Jason at the cruisers jam

Tobago

Tobago…

December 1, 2016

 - Jan 3 2017

Store Bay anchorage
Thanks for the great shot Laura!

Tobago and Trinidad are one country but very different islands.  Tobago is small and intimate, yet modern and progressive … and very, very clean; the streets, drinking water, rivers, even the street gutters.  Our anchorage outside of Store Bay was home to several international cruisers:  Russians, Austrians, Germans, Swedes and of course Americans.  Many landing here crossing the big pond.  

We became quite acquainted with the medical community while in Store Bay.  Jim and I both picked up a bug in Guyana.  Just over a week on meds for me and I was good to go but Jim’s infection settled in his arm, most likely through a small cut.  After being on 2 different antibiotics with little change, our latest doctor / visit recommended surgically lancing his giant ‘goose egg’ infected forearm to drain the yuck. More meds and a few more days of rest, he was finally on the mend, it was time to explore…. 

*one afternoon, between doctor visits, we were siting in the cockpit, at anchor, when we felt the boat hull shudder; twice.  Could we have bumper the bottom? no.  Did something; a whale? hit the boat… no.  An Earth Quake? … !  We called friends on the next boat and asked them if they had felt anything unusual… they had.  A short time later, the internet confirmed that a 5.4 mag earthquake had happened off the coast of Tobago.  No tsunami, no injuries.  Another new experience for the books.  

Island Tour

We, along with our friends Laura and Jason, aboard s/v Blue Blaze, hired Mr. Piggy to give us a tour of the island.  Mr. Piggy offers his services for anything you might want / need… ‘a taxi, I get you a taxi.  I know the best restaurant, you check it out.’… or a tour guide.

The Big Tree :
pic by Blue Blaze

He arranged for his cousin to pick us up in his van, Mr. Piggy in the passenger seat, we started our exploration of the island.  What we didn't realize was the amount of herbage that would accompany our tour guides, the island vision of Cheech and Chong.    We drove up and over and around the island.  The roads that traverse the upper reaches of the mountainous roads are cut along the ridge of the mountain, barely wide enough for one car at time.  The canopy of the trees just above eye level.   The island is home to The Big Old Tree: immense proportions at its base, its height stunted by the winds gusting across the ridge.  The islanders guess it to be a few hundred years old.  Tobago’s rainforests have been protected since 1765.  The road through the rainforest was unpopulated and filled with bamboo, mist from the clouds rising upwards at every turn.  We stopped at several villages and lookout points.  Lunch in Charlottesville; fresh fish with garlic sauce generously applied; a condiment with a popularity like Ranch dressing, served in every restaurant.  We finished the trip with a stop at the market for a few items then returned home.  

Having spent 3 weeks in Store Bay, though much of it was convalescing aboard Inishnee, we were able to meet a number of the locals.  Anthony is one of the first people cruisers encounter.  His studio is the first tree by Bogo’s Bar, where he paints daily.  Local scenes, birds, people.  He paints with acrylic on any surface that will hold paint.  Scrap wood, bamboo and even our broken paddle base.  I commissioned him to paint me a Mot Mot bird on a bamboo container I had on board… he also included a hummingbird… 

Water, water, water, water, water…. the water guy (I forgot his name) became a frequent visitor to the beach road along Store Bay.  He can be heard calling out : “water, water, water, water, water”… in a melodious voice from down de road… he also sells juices and umbrella.  His route is about 2 miles long going through town to the end of the beach road several times a day.   He has to be the most fit walker on the island.  

And of course, there’s Mr. Piggy… the ‘operator’

Next port, Charlottesville.  We had heard about and seen on our tour, the lovely little fishing village on the north side of Tobago.  Our friends on Blue Blaze and Honey Rider had already departed Store Bay for Charlottesville.  We reported to customs and immigration for clearance from one port to the next.  The passage was very lumpy with big swells.  A slog into the waves but the charming village was well worth the lumps.  Charlottesville is a small, traditional fishing village that recognizes the importance the cruisers play to their economy as well as the tourists.  Few amenities for the city type but huge on authenticity.   A warm welcome by Blue Blaze and Honey Rider made us feel at home.  

One the many locals, Dash, welcomed us as well and inquired if we would like to go fishing with him on his open boat?  Tom of Honey Rider, having done it the previous year, highly recommended the experience.  We made plans for the next day.  Dash, nick name and boat, came to pick us up early the next morning but with caution.  BIG waves today… You still want to go?  Some contemplation and we decided, ah, what the heck we have no other plans…  I packed a life jacket just in case and we boarded “Dash” following instructions… “don’t step on the lines in bottom of the boat… mama (me) you sit here, dad (Jim) you sit up front.  

London Bridge 

Dash, the boat, is rigged with two long line bamboo outriggers on each side mid ship, and 2 tow lines behind.  We rounded low rock point and went full on onto the waves, the 40 hp outboard powering through the 8 foot surf.  Dash standing in the rear the entire time; 3 hours!  His leg muscles the size of tree trunks.  He has a bit of a routine, passing on the outside of the small islands bordering the north end of Tobago: London Bridge and arched rock where waves blast through and farther on Marble, Saint Giles and Melville islands.   At just the right moment, cut the helm and come about (without getting swamped) and reverse course.  Repeat, repeat, repeat.  Several other fishermen followed us out, their locations visible only if we were each on the crest of a wave before being swallowed in the trough again.  We caught no fish, none of the other fisherman did either, but it was an incredible experience.    

A painting of the Mot Mot

A few days later, Dash agreed to take us on a hike to see the Mot Mot bird, a local species of many colors.  It prefers the forest so first we needed to trek up the hill / mountain side of town to get to the path.  At 58, Dash (William) is in incredible shape.  When not on holiday (Christmas and New Years) he works for the road crew, another very physical job.  He hardly broke a sweat while we panted and dripped our way along.  ‘Mama, take your time, no hurry.’ he says to me often.  As soon as we entered the forest path, a Mot Mot flew to a branch over head.  It is absolutely one  of the most colorful and beautiful birds ever created.  Please, google it and see for yourself… We spotted numerous other native birds as we continued our climb into the forest then further along through  the bamboo.  Nearing the top of the ridge and the cell towers that stand watch over the village we decided we needed to make our retreat with the fading light.  

Christmas was hosted by Honey Rider: Tom and Sabrina.  Guests included Inishnee’s crew as well as Blue Blaze.   Each boat contributing to the banquet.  Lobster, ham and roast chicken accompanied by several sides, followed by deserts.  Our beverages topped off, conversations continued long after our bellies were filled.     

Between holidays, Jason and Laura hosted a ‘fish talk’  aboard Blue Blaze.  Jason is a marine biologist, which has taken them all over the world exploring the ocean depths, working with NOAA and other reputable agencies documenting ocean life as well as helping with reef restoration.  Jason’s presentation was geared for us, the novice snorkeler / diver.  Most of the images he shared were taken by Jason or Laura.  While in Charlottesville, a whale shark actually brushed the side of the their boat... What a welcome!  The following day we were in the water and ready to investigate the reef with our enlightenment.  Following their tips for searching out and identifying we could identify numerous critters previously hidden to us.

Meeting up with Dash again on shore he took us to the tackle shop to make purchases for our island fishing gear.  Several rubber squid, huge hooks, 200 pound test line, steel leaders and lots of weights.   Sitting on the jetty, Dash put together our new ‘guaranteed  to catch fish’ hand line.  ?Not sure how this is going to work on a sailing boat… but, we have several rigs ready for testing.   The local method uses nothing mechanical, once the fish is hooked, it is hauled in hand over hand (over 200 feet of line out) and tossed into the boat.  Usually mahi mahi or tuna, sometimes barracuda or king fish; good eating but hundreds of razor sharp teeth.  Dash’s leg attested to the sharpness of the teeth with a scar several inches long.  We told him of the ‘rum’ trick to quiet a rambunctious fish… he had never heard of such a thing and got quite a laugh.  

While on the pier with Dash and making up the new lines, we saw a number of locals deploying a seine net.  The net is pulled out from shore with a fishing boat.  The net handlers continue heaving the net over the side, the boat make a large arch and returning to shore with the other end.   A few more locals join in and begin pulling the net on both ends.  As the net nears shore more and more join in to help pull.  As the middle of the net nears the shore the activity in the net begins to become apparent, the thousands of fish being forced together, silver bodies frantic to escape, shimmering and flopping.  there were about 15 net handlers.  After hauling it to shore, the coolers and baskets appear, handfuls of ballyhoo tossed in.  Separate baskets for tuna and jack, the few stingrays caught in the meyllay are tossed into the surf.  The event brings out a lot of lookers and a few buyers.  The net is owed by one individual who shares the catch with those who helped.    

Jason and Laura headed back to Store Bay for New Years Eve.  We chose to stay in Charlottesville with Tom and Sabrina to celebrate in Pirates Bay, a beach just off the boat anchorage.  It is a rough shore to beach and launch a dinghy from.  Tom and Sabrina’s dinghy was tossed by a wave earlier in the week, there motor pummeled through the surf.  They righted the craft and were able to get it started, no major damage but a thorough cleaning was needed. 

We beached the dinghy without too much trouble, 4 people to lift and haul, we got it above the surf line and tied it securely.  Stag, the local beer was passed around, purchased from SonSon’s bar.  SonSon is the ‘second’ son of 5 siblings.  2 girls, a ‘son’, 2 girls and another son… his nickname of course had to be SonSon, denoting is birth place.   He and his girlfriend Meg offer beers, homemade rum punch and dinners; fish, chicken or lobster with salad and rice sides made on sight.  They carry the supplies over the hill from town of bring it by ‘Money Bread’, their boat.  Their bar and kitchen are made of scrap wood, bamboo, various pieces of twine and road, a few nails.  Corrugated steel sheets for a roof on the ‘kitchen’ and palm fronds over the beach bar seating area.  A few old plastic deck chairs and some stumps make up the establishment.  

Earlier n the week, Tom, Sabrina, Laura and Jason made a Bamboo Cannon, Son Son their teacher.  A Bamboo Cannon is used for create sound, a very loud boom heard for many miles, no projectile.  They are traditionally made / used for the Christmas and New Years holiday, then discarded.   They account for the 2nd most likely injury on the island… the first, coconuts; falling of hatchet hacking?  not sure which.   

They cut a length of bamboo about 6 feet long and 8 inches in diameter.  The center sections of the bamboo or knocked leaving the last one, the bottom, in tacked.  A notch is made near the bottom to allow for kerosene to be poured in.  The notched end rests on the ground with the upper part resting on another support of some kind, elevated about 3 feet.  It is then heated with a flaming torch while the cannon operator blows into the notch to increase the heat.  When the liquid vaporizes, the flame is passed back over the notched opening and  the fumes sometimes  ignite and a BOOM is created… if everything goes right.  Often the fired tender leaves with singed eye brows or facial hair… sometimes worst.    Tom, having become a cannon master, got the thing going again and anyone wishing to give it a try was encouraged.  Jim a soon a cannon master and created several large cracks for the onlookers.  

Sabrina and SonSon having fun

SonSon made the announcement that he had run out of beer!  and asked Jim to shuttle him to town to get some.  We had warm beer on the boat which Jim offered up so they would not have to got to town.  They set of to get it when SonSon announced he needed ice too.  So they headed to town anyway.  Jim said they may as well get the beer in town since ours was warm but SonSon said he dandy bring enough money… Ok. ?  Jim asked, ‘then how were you going to pay for “my’ beer’?… SonSon said… ‘ahhh, we work it out.  I get you a fish”… hmmm.  Ice purchased, our beer loaded in the dinghy and back to the party… The beer was put on ice and t he cannon provided a bit more entertainment…. Up the path to the ‘bar’ to get the chilled beer and Meg asked for payment.  !!  ???  Jim says, it’s my beer… Meg says,  ‘SonSon says you traded for fish’…. Well, sort of.   Island bartering is still a bit of a mystery.  So Jim (re)bought our beer and returned to the beach.  Later when the group was asked who wanted fish for dinner?  Jim decided we’d better place our order to cover the beer exchange…. so we had fish for dinner… which was nicely cooked and seasoned.  

As the evening wore on, 2 dutch couples came ashore to celebrate, bring breaks to share.  Sausages, wine and champagne for the New Years toast.  Then they set off expired flares to light up the sky at midnight… Fireworks cruiser style.  

We had a great lime time in Tobago.  It is now at the top of our favorite caribbean island list.  Just the right size to explore.  A nice mix of modern and traditional cultural experiences.  Lots of native crafts to collect; calabash bowls and hanging baskets, wood carvings, original paintings, jewelry from natural and man made items.    

Happy New Year

Merry Christmas!

Lunch at the
Suck Hole... 

Jim and the Bamboo Cannon

Tom and the Bamboo Cannon

Hiking with Dash

Building with local materials, bamboo for wall support

Adalphus returning the stingray to the sea

The weld shop

Island Crafts

Laundry day

Ahhhh, loveit
in Charlottesville