Tunisia, North Africa
2018
Part one
Where do I begin?… so many things have happened here, it’s remarkable
The passage From Malta was uneventful. 30 hours of motoring / motor-sailing. Late morning of the second day, a playful pod of dolphins frolicked around the bow for over 15 minutes. The water was flat calm allowing us to see the dolphins up close; numerous scars along their sleek bodies and even their blowholes opening and closing as they surfaced.
We made the harbor of Monastir, Tunisia before sunset. Hundreds of swimmers playing in the clear water along the golden, sandy shore; some jumping off the massive rocks that jutted into the sea. No response to our VHF calls from the marina, we slowly made our way past the break wall and on to the inner harbor. We were summoned to the ‘wall’ near the marina by waving arms. We proceeded with caution… and were met with competent french / arabic speaking marina officials. Inishnee secured, Jim was to present himself promptly to the police and customs / immigration officers. In short order he returned with the agents who needed to do a quick inspection… A peek under the v berth, a look see in the booze bin and a few questions about intentions while visiting. We were given a clearance and were free to enjoy their country…
Welcome to Tunisia… everyone seems happy we are here. Another US couple were quick to pop over and welcome us. Janice and Bob were soon good friends with a tremendous amount of valuable information about cruising the Mediterranean and ways to manage the Schengen Agreement… ( Our clock is at 45 days of the 90 we are allowed; Tunisia is out of the Schengen and EU). They mentioned to us about the local custom involving boat photos. Inishnee was soon getting a sense of this harmless but curious practice. The evening promenade begins around sunset when the summer temperatures are more manageable and continues for hours… Inishnee was featured in many photos, a few of the locals even stepped on the cap rail of the boats. Some were even bold enough to actually board the boat and stand on the deck / bow… a bit distressing for the boat owners, especially when you hear foot steps on deck while you are trying to sleep… taking a berth with locked entrance prevents this but until it is decided how long you are staying and what your needs are you stay on the wall.
We met Steve the next morning. He had just been launched after having much work done at the fishing port 2 miles away… We were very interested in his experience because we hoped to haul the boat and have it painted as well as a few other mechanic issues and improvements to stainless tubing etc…
We were soon off to the boat yard / fishing port by taxi for quotes and time expectations. The boat yard is rough. Terribly smelly and the harbor polluted with fuel, plastics and other contaminates. Steve’s tips made our job easy and soon we were under contract with Sabir for hauling, painting and mechanical work. The boat would be untenable because of the engine work so we secured lodging at Hotel Mezri… with air-conditioning… and a pool!
We had a long weekend to explore the city and decompress from the passage and the last 45 days of Schengen travel and medical issues, etc… Monday was a holiday so our haul out and work was scheduled Tuesday or Wednesday. We ventured out mornings and evening and stayed aboard during the hottest of the daytime hours, 10 - 5pm… Fans running on high and the crew rehydrating… We spent evenings with Bob and Janice who continued to woo us with their stories of traveling the last 6 years in Europe and the Mediterranean… We also did a lot of soul-searching and reevaluating. And… decided we were putting too much pressure on ourselves trying to make the weather window to Gibraltar this season (one month away and over 1,000 miles to go just to make Gibraltar, then on to the Canary Islands for the passage back to the caribbean… And, we have seen so little us the because of self imposed schedules and playing the Schengen clock… we decided to abort the Caribbean plan and remain in Europe for at least another year. Maybe do the French Canals… Once decided, we found ourselves actually getting excited about cruising again… Jim spend and entire evening nose down in a ‘canal guide’ (thank you Janice and Bob!) looking at options and possible routes. Kathy was relieved to not have to be constantly on the move … whew
But, We had to make the call… Son Stephen had committed to crewing for the crossing. But Stephen is one of the easiest going, kind hearted person you could hope to meet. We was totally understanding and hopefully he and is equally awesome wife Amanda will join us in Europe.
Wednesday. The mechanic (Sabre’) and Sabire came along for the ride to inspect the boat / work we hoped to have completed and assist with lines. The port police alowe dos to add them to the crew list and we headed to the fishing port 2 miles away. On arrival it appeared to us to be a bit of a cluster-fuck… (sorry). No clear place to tie up, a LOT of yelling in Tunisian
French / Arabic ??? … We were directed to tie (squeeze) Inishnee into and along side several beat up fishing boats. With lots of pushing and pulling and line handling and more yelling we were tucked in among the fleet… Jim and Sabire had to then report to the fishing harbor office with boat document papers and pay the haul out fee. Then we waited. And waited and w a i t e d…. Then, more yelling and we were up next… The hoist was driven into position, dragging the 9 traps used to lift the boats through stones, gravel, dirt, oil, gas, shit… ugh Sabire assured us the hull would be protected … his plan… to use one old blank and 3 pieces of plastic to shield the hull from the filthy straps. With 4 line handlers on on the pier, the hoist was positioned to the satisfaction of the lift operator… NOT the crew of Inishnee however. The next hour plus there were a lot of loud exchanges and ‘ideas’ as to how best to lift a small sail boat compared to the monster vessels they normally lift. Jim was finally able to persuade the lift operator to tie the slings together. First attempt and lift was a near disaster as the slings slipped, possibly snapping the prop shaft, strut and or propeller. One of the workers volunteered to free dive down and position the straps correctly. *Let me remind you at this point of the condition of the water… he thought nothing of it and jumped right in…
Kathy found images of the keel of Inishneee so the diver would know what where the slings needed to be placed. The diver dove and relayed info as the straps were raised. Dive after dive calling out instructions… on one dive the man’s arm became trapped between the straps and the hull… he was barely able to free himself before a tragedy occurred… We are sooo grateful he was able to free himself!
With the straps properly in place the rest went pretty smoothly, Kathy rode along onboard to Inishnee’s temporary home on the hard. The hull was proper and supported with logs, barrels, board and pipes… by later afternoon the hull was power washed and prepped for painting.
We made out way to the hotel, exhausted hungry and stinky sweaty.
Jim spent the next day with the Sabre’ the mechanic and his assistant evaluating of the engine. The 3 of them, Jim included, dismantled the engine enough to access and remove the parts needing replacement / rebuilding… Factoring in the costs and the competence of the mechanic, it was decided the engine could be completely rebuilt not just serviced ! The parts are available locally and the mechanic confident it could be done on the boat, dismantling on board and carting of the pieces one by one down and back up the ladder. So, the complete removal of the engine began in ernest. Jim was amazed at the progress made just in one day and confident the work would be done professionally and in record time all the while working with ‘old school’ tools and back breaking labor.
The dismantling of the engine went at breakneck speed. The salon / dinning was littered with a zillion parts… Access to the v-berth and head closed off. Living on the boat was virtually impossible so we took temporary lodging in a hotel. Air conditioning, a small pool and breakfast included.
The hull was prepped and painted with 3 coats of anti fouling. Parts and stainless ordered for the engine rebuild and lifeline tubing. As the work processed we realized we would need a few more items of clothing having only brought enough off the boat for 3 days… We were in luck!
Gawd... will they get it all back together... and working?
Friday and Saturday is the BIG produce and goods market. Acres and acres of new and used clothes heaped on tables, plastic tarps shielding the sun and rain; sort of. Each table is designated a price: 1 - 10 Dinar (30 cents to 3 dollars)… The tables are somewhat organized by baby, youth, male and female. You wade through the piles and pull out items. Brands from all over the world can be found; Gap, Old Navy, Marks and Spencer, H&M… This must be where all those unsold ‘sale’ items end up… We found a few things to get us by until the boat work is completed and we could get access to our own clothes. The produce market was typical for the Mediterranean, seasonal local produce by the truck load. Good quality.
Jim worked by day on the boat, Kathy relished in climate controlled abode of Hotel Mezri. And then…Everything came to a halt. It was the time of Eid a-Adha
Eid a-Adha, Feast of Sacrafice. One of the most important religious holidays for muslims. A multi day event. It commemorates when God appeared to Ibrahim in a dream and asked him to sacrifice his son ( a test of faith), which he agreed to, but God stopped him and gave him a sheep to kill in his sons place…
To mark the occasion, those who can afford to, acquire a sheep and sacrifice it, honoring someone of importance to the family. The meat is processed and divide 3 ways. One portion for the family, one portion for friends and one donated to the needy.
We were invited to witness and experience first hand this ritual!
Mahfoud had introduced himself to us at the boat yard and often check up on us and the progress being made. One visit, he asked us to join him and his family to the sacrifice and subsequent meal. We were very grateful and accepted. He, being a halal butcher, would be needed day one to kill others sheep (10 total). He would pick us up on day 2 of the holiday and take us to his home. The sheep to be sacrificed must be male. 6 months to 3 years in ages and no injuries, scars or blemishes.
The following is an account of the sacrifice and killing of the sheep…
Mahout and his wife and son live in the old walled city in a efficient and lovely home. A small kitchen. Dining and living area. 2 bedrooms and a toilet. A small courtyard in the back for laundry, storage, grilling and today, a sacrifice. The animal was led to the area and held in place for killing number one. The family said a prayer and named the sheep in honor of Mafouts mother. Then the jugular was cut and the animal was prepped for case skinning. It was then shuttled to the front door and hung in preparation for the second killing.. Another prayer was said and the animal was bled wit a quick puncture to the heart. Then skinned, gutted and dismembered. It was quite humbling being a bystander for these very special rituals.
Mahout and Sabira then asked us to stay for the first meal of the sacrifice. Mafout prepared several cuts of meat for the grill while Sabira prepped salad, bread and sides. Just barley 2 hours from hoof to plate, we were sampling fresh mutton. We are grateful to Mafout and his family for allowing us this experience.
Kathy: To some this may seem barbaric and ghastly. My father was a butcher. It is good to know where your food comes from and equally important to know it is a physical and messy business. I was raised knowing that animals do not come in neat little styrofoam trays with plastic wrap tucked around them.
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| sausages drying on roof ticlothes lines |
Meanwhile… little progress was made on the boat due tot he holiday. But when it did the work was orderly and professional. The boat was relaunched because there was boat behind us that needed tot be launched... the work continued while inishnee was tied to a 'pirate ship' undergoing renovations...
more images from our wanderings...
