Corsica, France 2018

Castelsardo to 
Bonifacio

Corsica, France

2018

We left for Corsica from Sardinia with a forecast of 10 knots of wind from the north, our direction of course.  A bit of a swell at the harbor entrance left over from the recent mistral winds.  20 miles ahead lay Corsica which could be seen on the horizon.  The crew hoisted the sails.  The winds quickly went from next to nothing to over 20, then nearly 30 knots; not a problem for our sturdy ship and crew; however… the waves and swell were getting the better of both.  The bow plowing through the 5-6 foot seas that were sure to build with the wind that was on the nose.  The hull speed floundering with each wave.  After an hour of plunging and the deck getting a formidable saltwater bath we decided to retreat.  We had no agenda other than we had hoped to make the passage before the next mistral predicted for the next day.  A boisterous 20 minutes later we were in the harbor and entering our berth.  Dead calm.  The marina tender came to greet us and asked if all was well with crew and boat; knowing we had departed just a couple hours ago…He then assisted with the mooring lines.  

So, a few more days in Castlesardo.   The winds over the next few days continued.  Even the marina was seeing white caps.  Several boats came in over the next couple of days, one using his emergency tiller due to broken steering cable.  Fortunately, there were many hands on the pier to help the crew of two.  It took 3 nerve racking attempts to guide the boat into a berth.  Fenders and boat hooks used to fend off.  Lines tossed, the shore team had a heck of a time holding the boat in place.  

The next day another boat came in, much to our surprise.  The winds had been well over 25 knots at the marina and the sea was a mess.  We were just heading to shore when we spotted the boat.  Bare poles, heeling like it was under full sail.  They circled a few times then saw us… We waved them to an open berth and readied ourselves to catch their lines.  8 crew on board, all helping to fend off as they backed in.  The captain was amazing and slid the boat into the seemingly impossible small slip.  Lines were secured.  They were greatly relieved to be off the open water.  They said the winds off shore were a steady 40 knots, the seas equally impressive.    At least they had following seas so they were not too uncomfortable.

  

Inishnee had its own bit of trouble with the winds while at the dock.  Winds consistently blowing 35 knots and gusting in the 40,s for over 10 hours, our wind generator wasn’t able to disperse enough of the excess electricity it was producing.  Jim wasn’t able to tie off the blades without losing an arm or worse… so he had to disconnect the battery terminal.  Eventually the control panel for the wind generator gave out.  A call to the company; they will gladly replace the unit.   For now, the blades will remain tied off.  We will rely on sun and shore power.  

We took the next decent weather window for Corsica.  A very pleasant sail, mostly motoring.   

Bonifacio.  Holy Cow!  What a harbor entrance.  Massive limestone cliffs walls with the old city fortress looming above and over the sea.  


Caves sculpted by the sea and winds big enough for boats to enter and have a peek.  The harbor itself is up and in a very narrow channel.  Very protected from the sea and invaders… Odysseus in the ‘Odyssey’ is said to have harbored here, anchoring near the mouth of the channel, the fleet in the harbor… he with his ship and crew were the only ones to escape the slaughter and cannibalism from the inhabitants of the time…their proximity to the sea allowing for a quick departure.  

We made our way slowly in to the harbor looking for ‘J - K - L’ piers, these being the berths allocated for visitors.  No marina personnel to assist.  We were in tremendous luck, however.  One pier was nearly empty and the end spots free for the taking.  We circled close and requested help from a fellow boater who were quick to catch our lines.  We nosed in to the outer berth and tied fast to the heavy rings fastened to the pier and hauled up the mooring line to secure the aft end.  




 
Over the next 48 hours the piers filled in with transiting boats.  All much bigger than our cozy vessel of 40 feet (12 meters).  The boat handling skills left in us awe.  Most / all newer boats have bow thrusters, a device that helps to push (turn) the bow or aft to port or starboard.  These boats are able to position in very small, tight spots we would not consider unless we were out of options.  Glad we arrived early so we didn't have to embarrass ourselves with maneuvering into the inner berths.  

Today, the little village is a magnet for tourist.  We found it to be quite expensive, however.  Our night on the town; dinner out, was thwarted by the exorbitant prices.  Souvenirs, like many found in other ports, several times more money.  We did manage to stimulate the economy by buying some local wine.  Very nice.  The french do know their wine… and bread and croissants.  It’s easy to make a meal of them with a bit of cheese and air cured smoked ham… so we did.

The seasons are changing here in the mediterranean, and with it cooler temperatures, mid 70’sF daytime.  It was quite pleasant to walk the foot path along the spine of the limestone cliff above the sea.  Specular views. We walked around the upper village / fortress after climbing the ancient cobblestone road that lead to the entrance.  

        



The fortress actually has a drawbridge with remnants of the mechanisms that would have controlled the bridge and gate.  The streets within are typically narrow.  The multi storied stone buildings are mainly homes. There are several churches and a few bistros.   Shops for tourists to purchase doodads to take home.  

      

Along the sea cliff is the entrance to King of Aragon Staircase.  For a small fee you can scale the 187 step staircase ending just above the sea.  Steep and narrow cut into the stone. Stunning views… we are told.  The crew of Inishnee took a pass; one not caring for the very open, scary decent and return, the other not having an interest in spending money better used on wine… After a couple of hours of wandering we had seen pretty much all there was for the public to see.  

We returned to Inishnee to sample some of the Corsica wine.  Lovely.  A few sips into the bottle, we noticed 4 armed customs agents eying our vessel.  They slowly made their way down the pier to our berth.  Jim waked forward to greet them, answered a few questions which they seems satisfied with and they bid us farewell.  But… said they might return. 

ahhh!  This is the first port we have not gone to customs upon arrival (we were only staying one day… two nights).  




Well, the friendly tribe of four returned with clip boards and asked to board the boat, which of course, you don't say no to their query.  So, they clambered aboard and squeezed into the cockpit.  The woman in charge; standing and leading the questioning.  Papers  were shuffled and documents scrutinized.  Forms were signed and more questions answered.  All very orderly and pleasant.  Happy with our answers and papers, we were welcomed ‘officially’ to Corsica, France.  

We finished our wine as the sun set.  The illuminated walls of the old fortress our backdrop.

The next morning was go time again.  The weather window good, light winds and calm seas for the passage to Ostia, Italy…  Inishnee’s winter berth.  An overnight passage, 145 miles.  Expected arrival early afternoon.  






We watched the sun rise as we entered the open waters.  The limestone cliffs glowing in the morning light.  We choose the ‘scenic’  route through the islands off Sardinia’s north coast.  A nature preserve, some areas requiring permission to anchor / visit.  The span between the two counties around 5-7 miles, dotted with rocks big and small.  No ships are allowed through this passage and must take the long way around.

 

  

  

The night was moonless.  Excellent for star gazing.  Kathy saw a couple dozen shooting stars on her midnight to 3am watch.  The bioluminescence was scarce but visible.  Very few ships and only a few fishing boats.  


Inishnee made excellent time to Italy, nearly flat seas until the last few hours of darkness when the winds picked up again and created a chop.  On arrival we headed for the fuel dock; noted for shoaling… and promptly ran aground.  A nice and sandy bottom so our newly rebuilt engine was able to muscle us through the hump… we decided we would skip the fuel stop.  The marina assistants directed us to our spot, #311.  

All tucked in before 9 am.  Time for a hot breakfast, coffee and tea before visiting the big house to make it official.  

Buongiorno e benvenuti  in Italia …. Inishnee

Sardina, Italy 2018

Sardinia, Italy

September / October

2018

The passage from Monastir, Tunisia to Cagliari, Sardinia was fast. Speeds averaging 7 knots.   2 nights at sea. Some sailing, some motoring.  We made such good time we had to put the breaks on several times, reefing the main x2 and the jib so we would arrive in the daylight.  A bit of current helped as well. Chilly in the wee hours, sunny daytimes.   Dolphins occasionally.  Trash often.  One sail boat and several ships.  We were guided to our slip and secured by 10am.  Jim went off to find the customs / immigrations office, a nice looong walk ensued.  The check in went fine with some stumbling over the language; Italian.  

We spent several days in the Cagliari, the capital city of Sardinia.  It was a welcome change from Tunisia; the daytime temperatures having dropped around 10 degrees with the higher latitude.  Of note, no litter, no rank smells on every corner and larger selections of produce, goods and eateries.  But, our $’s won’t go as far in Sardinia as they did in Tunisia…

  

Like the rest of the Mediterranean,  Sardinia has much to offer and welcomes tourism.  Lots of ‘old rocks’ to explore, fantastic cuisine and stunning scenery.  Beautiful, clean beaches, mountains always in the distances.  And green!   Everything is green, even after a long HOT summer.  The mountains feed the many streams and rivers creating a montage of green throughout the countryside.  Everywhere there are public water spigots; city, villages and country and mountain roads.  Free for all to use.

  

Cagliari

We took a 1 hour mini tour on a bus there hits many of the highlights of the city.  Stops at the sea side, the mountain ridge overlooking the city and through the old town gates.  We took in the national  Archives  museum, with excellent exhibits with labels in Italian and English.  

 

We walked around the old city which is mostly homes and office buildings.  Narrow streets with limited access for vehicles.   We of course made stops to the several ships stores (chandleries).  Near the Maria was a farmers market, very refined! with priced marked and good selections and variety of goods. 

  

 

We ate pizzas nearly everyday with good table wines from local vintners.  Ichnusa, the National ‘birra’ was sampled as well as the very popular Aperol Spritz; soda water, prosecco, Aperol*, an orange slice and ice… very pleasant on a summer afternoon.  

Next stop… Golfo di Palmas

Small village which we didn't explore because the anchorage was much too roll’y so we continued on to Carloforte and a marina.    

Carloforte;  a lovely little village with a bustling local community.  After siesta, the afternoon rest period where nearly everything closes and ‘you’ take your rest, the locals come out to socialize.  One of the favorite spots, a park flanked by 4 huge trees.  Benches encircling each tree.  Kids riding bikes and running races.  People talking.  We sat with our gelato and took in the ambiance.  Remarkably, only one person was using a phone!  Everyone was engaged in real conversations with an actual person sitting near them.  Refreshing!  

Again, the old city streets were narrow and winding.  Stone and block buildings of 3-4 stories. Iron railing on the balconies.  Flower pots resting on stoops.  Exteriors painted with a dip in a bucket of sunset colors.  

  

On to Buggerru… yes, its real name.  Another small village but, again the anchor was roll’y so was moved on the the next morning. 

Tharros… Not a town but an archeological site (more old rocks!).  We hooked on to a mooring ball and lost it just as fast, as well as our boat hook; the winds dragging us down wind.  Kathy circled Inishnee around again. Giving another go at it, Jim was able to snag the float secure the lines and retrieve the boat hook.  Off the bow, the ancient roman ruins of Tharros;with a couple of standing, marble columns.  Just beyond on the crest of the hill sat a watch tower; one of thousands that skirt the island.  Ashore we strolled into the tiny village comprised of restaurants and pensions.  It didn't take long to explore so we retraced our steps and returned to Craic (our dinghy) for transport to Inishnee (our ship)… 

  

Watch towers.  Archeologists estimate Sardinia was home to thousands of watch towers that circled the coastal areas.  Constructed by the spanish in the mid 1,500’s ad.  They were spaced within eye shot of each others and severed as communication stations.  Signals from spotters consisted of smoke from fires during the day; nights the fire itself.  If alerts need to be issued, fireworks were  set off.  The towers were equipped with soldiers, cannons, hand weapons.  

    

We moved on to Bosa for a few nights.  We anchored behind a break wall at the mouth of a river a mile of so from the village.  Jim readied the dinghy and we motored into town.  As we rounded the bend in the river we were treated with a spectacular view!  The old town sitting the shadow of a castle; there are lots of castles in Sardinia.  The sunset colored buildings augmented by the setting sun made gave the feel of a fairy tale come to life.  We sat and dripped a few moments taking it in.  

  

We eventually tied up along the city wall under a bridge, no trolls to be found, however.  We meandered the streets weaving our way up toward the castle.  Along the way we happened upon a man carving masks from stone.  Our Italian is still quite limited so we weren't able to understand his explanation of his work though he was not deterred by this and continued chatting our ears off.

  

  

  

  

We continued on our way and toured the castle which afforded a spectacular view of the sea as well as the hillside and valley.  As we made our way downhill, we came across several ladies sitting in the lane between homes.  They were busy chatting away while working on traditional lace work known as ‘Bosa Filet Lace’.  It’s origins having to do with the making of fishing nets.  A needle and thread are fed around and through a large grid material, each person free handing their design, often following age old patterns of birds or flowers.  Adapting to the tourist market, they make small pieces of jewelry as well as miniature wall hangings or table coverings.  

  

We wanted to eat out having spent several nights aboard but the restaurants do not even begin seating guests until at least 7:30, which is typical for Sardina as well as any parts of the Mediterranean.  We didn't not bring our portable navigation lights so we were relegated to eating aboard.  A quick stop at the grocery and we were homeward bound.  Local wine and bread to accompany our sunset dinner.  

  

Alghero.  

Another perfectly, picturesque town.  We took a mooring on the old city wall and had free use of the water and electric.  We were soon greeted by Christopher, a local young man who frequents the harbor and loves to chat up the tourist, especially anyone speaking English. Self-taught, he loves to ‘practice’ on anyone who will take the time.  Unfortunately, Christopher has a number of disabilities and many shy away from him due to this.  After checking in with the authorities and getting our ‘constituto’ stamped; extra legal paperwork for foreign boats, we began exploring.  

  

Alghero is a little unique for a Sardinian seaside town because it is relatively flat.  We wondered around the old city, featuring many shops for souvenirs and eateries.  Being a tourist destination, many restaurants serve all day; a plus for the early bird crew of Inishnee.  Jim ventured into a tourist concierge office to inquire about a car rental and what / where we should go.  Valarie was incredibly helpful, noting places of must see on our two day / one night tour.  We rented a car from the airport, it giving the best rates (Argus Car Hire / 28 US dalliers for 2 days!!!).  We pack our bags and settled in for the night, ready for make an early morning departure.   

2:50 am… *Much earlier than our planned wakeup call, we heard someone board the boat and walk to the companionway… ?  (We are moored bow to the quay and have a boarding ladder that extends over the water from the boat to the pier.) Perplexed, Jim rolled over to see a light shinning into the cabin from the cockpit.  He started yelling and scrambled for the door.  The very startled intruder headed for the ladder… Kathy had just enough time to open the front hatch above the bunk were we had been sleeping and grabbed the guy by the leg… but she wasn't able to hold on.  He jumped from the ladder to the pier and started running, sort of… he was quite husky and wasn't able to run too fast.  Jim and Kathy, both in their ‘night attire’ didn't give chase, but Kathy started yelling a shouting ‘police!, Help!… Police!!!!…. nothing.  No one around.  ahhhh!  One neighbor finally opened a port to see what the fuss was but again the language issue made it impossible to explain.  

We made a call to the police they had a very hard time understanding our problem, but referred us to the coast guard… who again, didn't understand.  We were finally able to get our point across and 1 hour later 2 cars and 4 police showed up along with a representative from the marina.  An officer took our statement and looked around the boat and the area.  The marina rep assured us he would review the security cameras that were conveniently located at the bow of our boat! along with a very bright light… We managed to get a bit of shut eye but the dilemma of leaving the boat loomed heavy on our minds.  

Morning.  After processing the late night events, we decided to proceed with our planned tour.  Jim maneuvered the boat well off the wall and we hosted the ladder making is virtually impossible to board; or get off the boat. Our slip mates, the owners and crew of  “Andrea Jensen’  were happy to let us use their boat / ladder.  *they run a day trip tourist execution  aboard their lovely ship.  

So, with some trepidation, the crew of Inishnee was off…

The interior of Sardinia is just as amazing as its coast.  Rolling hills, mountains, valleys and villages.  Every spot fit for a postcard.  A bit rainy and chilly, we made our way toward Su Gologone per Valarie’s suggestion, taking side roads using Google Maps as our guide…  

Su Gologone is a location and an experience. 

 

It is officially a spot where an underwater river surfaces and continues downward toward the sea.  Divers have searched / mapped the interior river to depths of 135 meters / 400+ feet.  Its waters are potable, cool and refreshing.  It is forbidden to step into the ‘spring’ area where the water exits the canyon forming the river.  But, you can have a sip from the nearby spring fed from the same source.

Again, following Valarie’s advice… ‘a very special place’, we made reservations for lunch at the SuGologone resort.  It was ‘very special ! ’… Entering the restaurant you are immediately drawn to the 20 foot fireplace where sucking pigs are roasting near the roaring fire…  along with sausages, steaks and other cuts of meat.  

We were seated and given a complimentary ‘spumoni’ while perusing the menu.  Several courses are offered.  Appetizers to stimulate the pallet.  Then first courses of pasta or risottos.  Second courses of meats.  And desserts.  

Kathy thought we should just get right to the deserts but Jim, always the  voice of reason, suggested following the recommendations.   

Appetizers: Pane Carasau, bread and local sheep cheese spread.  *pane carasau is a flat bread like a thin cracker.  Very crispy.   

Acomaided with the local wine (vino di case); very nice with lingerings of oak.  

First course: Sardinian pasta / Gnocchitti with wild boar sauce.

Second course.  Meat on a spit. Roasted pork 3 ways, and wild board in sweet sour sauce.  

Legumes: saute’d peppers, onions and tomatoes.

Desert… complimentary sweet biscuits..

2.5 hours later… We were completely satiated,  placated and lethargic… good thing our destination for the night was just over the mountain pass… 

Orgosolo

Famous for its murals; over 400.  The village hangs on the walls of the mountain tucked remotely into the interior of the island.  It’s secluded location was a perfect place for ‘bandits’ (early mafia) to hideout or to hide their kidnapped victims until a their ransoms were paid.  

Over time, the locals (shepherds, etc) revolted and a small war was waged.  The last ‘bad guy’ was killed and the village returned to its less violent past.  However, with many still harboring ill will toward the ‘government’  protest took the form of pictorial graffiti… today, the old and new images blend together to the their story.  Political satires and peasant scenes adorn the walls throughout the village.  Many reflecting the cubist style, some very primitive, all converting a message to the viewer.  

 

  

 

 

The people are a blend of old traditions and modern, western influences.  The elderly men sitting in the curb talking, elderly women shuffling along in black dresses and shawls common for coming to church.  The younger generation at cafe’ s with coffees and cell phones.   

Our room b&b was lovely.  Very modern.  Private bedrooms with ensuite.  Shared kitchen.  Breakfast at the dinner down the hill.  Croissants, yogurt, fruits, toast and jellies and of course coffee.  Even ‘americano’ versions are very, very small.

We got anearly start.  The sun was out and waiting for us as we started down the mountain.  Nothing on the agenda except being home to return the car by 7pm.  We drove along in the general direction of Alghero following / stopping at ‘brown signs” (historical places) as we saw them.  

A Giants Tomb.  The name given by local people and archeologists (because of their large size), a type of Sardinian megalithic grave built during the bronze age by the Nuragic Civilization.  These complexes were collective tombs and are found throughout Sardinia.  Over 800 have been discovered so far.  Made up of stones (slab or block) they are similar to the court cairns found in Ireland.  It is believed they were use in burial rituals for the peoples who inhabited the area / community.  

We also explored a Nuraghe.  These stone complexes with towers are found all over the interior of Sardinia.  Over 7,000 have been discovered but it is believed by archeologists that there are over 10,000.  Their purpose is unknown but it appears as though people lived in and around these structures.  Many were place at strategic locations like hilltops but they are found everywhere.  The one we toured was discovered in 1994 and was only recently unearthed revealing joining circular structures with small interiors. 

With night falling we sped things up and drove home on the super highway.  A quick stop at Lydl for groceries and then home… 

     

Much of our relief, the boat was perfectly fine.  Our intruder had not returned and all was well.  We followed up with the marina and the police.  They were able to get images from the camera of our intruder; including Kathy grabbing the guys leg! but they were a bit blurry so no ID could be made.  The marina was very concerned and offered to relocate us.  We declined, believing that we had thoroughly scared the bejesus out of the guy and his criminal career had been thwarted.  

Time for another port…

We anchored off Capo Caccia with a stone tower overlooking the boat.  

Jim was greeted by a few dolphins as he attached the mooring line.  Happy Birthday Captain Jim!  The waters were of the cleanest and clearest we have seen in the Mediterranean.  Although, quite chilly this time of year.  The gentle breeze from the afternoon died during the night, which caused the mooring ball to wallop the hull… over and over and over… 

  

Next morning we had to depart early to make the 50 mile passage to Castelsardo.  North and east making a cut through some skinny water between Isola Piana and Isolotto Bocca.  Depths around 13 -17 feet with a few spots of 3!   The water was turquoise with patches deep blue where the grass grew.  Drawing 6 feet, we were hard on the line, Jim at the wheel.  Each bank was lined with watchtowers.  We made great time and took a berth at the lone marina.  A castle on the hill…  

Castelsardo … Castel Sardo… Castle of Sardina.  

A very prominent castle sit above the city.  The town painted in the pastels well known to Sardinia.  To our pleasant surprise, the marina has a strip mall with all things necessary for cruisers… water and electric on the dock.  Mooring lines to the pier.  A haul out well and lift.  Showers and toilets.  A huge, well stock grocery with ‘lender’ carts.  A chandlery.  A beauty shop. a dive shop and a medical station.  A office with a book swap.  A self laundry that take euros…  and a bus stop… wow.  Liking this stop!

We explored the city and the castle which is now a museum.  

 
The city is a hub for basket and rug making, yes; Kathy bought a few.  We were able to get a few prescription medicines as well… without a prescription.  Its been our experience that if we go to a pharmacy and present out old bottle they will refill it… Kathy has even asked for and received a Rx for something without a prescription… The cost is much cheaper than we spend on our copays from the US …. not to mention shipping!!! 

So, we stocked up on wine and food.  And started planning our escape.  But, Sardina wasn't finished with us yet.   The weather report called for moderately high winds and waves from our intended direction.  So we decided to hang out another day / night.  The winds steadily picked up as the morning turned to afternoon.  We were hunkered down below when shouts came from up top… dashing our we were amazed that a boat was trying to berth next to use… The wind is a steady 20 knots and the seas are crashing over the break wall… where the heck did they come from?  

Many people were at hand to help, they were having difficulty steering.  The space they wanted was 2 over from us but another boat was in the berth… next option was between us and another boat …fenders out and adrenaline rushing … everybody yelling in Italian!  ahhhh… the captain aborted the plan to berth by us and went 2 more slips down… They managed to wedge into the spot, only a few crunches and scrapes.  It took a long many minutes to secure the boat with the wind howling at 25 knots and increasing… whew.  We later learned this is their home port and the spot they originally tried to dock was their berth but was taken by a visiting boat.  and, to make matters worse, their steering was broken and they were coming off the heavy seas with the emergency tiller… kudos to him for attempting the feat and managing it!  

The winds continued; surpassing 35 knots regularly… Welcome to the territory of the Mistral winds.  Another local phenomenon of localized winds not associated with a storm barreling down from the mainland.  We were up a good deal of the night listening and deciphering the noises.  Crushing fenders, creaking lines.  clanging halyards.  Moaning woodwork.  The winds finally abate before daybreak… when the rains started.  The salt spray was washed off in no time.  

A bit late waking up, we lounged around before heading out to catch the bus to town. A few errands we returned for a peaceful afternoon.  

 
Tomorrow we plan to depart…  Corsica, France… Bonaficio!   We hear its fabulous and not to be missed…

Chow!