Passage to Leland Harbor, MI

7.27

Suttons Bay to Leland MI  

We woke to a thick fog.  No bay, no tree line.  Calm and quiet. We weighed our options.  

Managed to dodge that storm ...

Stay in Suttons Bay: we already walked the 5 blocks of town 3 times, both sides of the street.  Set off in the fog for North Port:  very little to do there. 

Head for South Manitou Island:  Fog, Wind out of the east then north east.  No Marina, have to anchor, Not protected from east or north winds.  

Leland: been there done that.  Nice community, a harbor of refuge.  Very tight slips and usually lots of boats.

Leland it is…   Fog lifted for visibility of a bout 1 mile.  calm and glassy water. Motoring.  Suttons Bay and Leland are about 6 miles apart over land.  We have to take the water route of course.     35 miles to go.   Wind picks up as we dodge thunderstorms throughout the day.  One heavy downpour, some thunder in the distance but nothing threatening.  Fog comes and goes.  Making the turn and heading south around the point, the sun pops put and warms us enough to remove a few layers and cast off the rain gear for a while.  2 sailboats trailing us.  One heads west the others continues south.  The approach to Leland in sight, 2 miles ahead and the fog rolls back in.  We make the harbor entrance and the fog lifts but the wind is still a howlin’. We ask for assistance with lines knowing the slips are small and close together.  We are met by 4 dock hands, much appreciated.  Lines secure and they are off to help another boat.  Then the sail that was following us all day arrives and they too are assisted, docking in the slip next to us.  Marge and Joe are from Chicago, sailing about for a few weeks. They are here for a family reunion /party.  Joe single-hands his Islander sloop often and has been to many of the same ports as we have been.   We have not crossed paths till today.    

Rain bouncing off the surface of the Lake 

We had dinner on board.  Lasagna.  Wind is steady at 25 knots out of the north.  We are nestled in and hunkering down.  A good night to read and relax.  Tomorrow, more wind.  Not sure if a visit to South Manitou will be possible.  Winds much the same.  A west wind gives the best protection and ensures good holding of the anchor.  Water is deep and anchor dragging an issue.  Not for the faint of heart (me)…. we shall see.

7.28

The wind howled all night and half the day.  25 knots and gusting higher.  The slapping halyards woke us several times during the night.  Jim tightening them to no avail.  With mornings arrival, the winds continue and decisions are made to stay put.  No one in the harbor is moving on.  The ferry to Manitou Island is shut down for the day as well.  Seep in.  Read.  Get groceries.  Walk around.  Bake brownies.  Buy some smoked white fish sausage!  Take a nap.  Walk over to Lake Leelanau.  Get dinner from the sandwich shop.  The winds died down early afternoon.  The suns warms things up and the town comes alive.  We walk about the dock and check out the other boats.  After a check of the weather we make plans to go to South Manitou in the morning.  The winds will be light and favorable.  It’s about 15 miles west of here.  Waves have diminished and should remain so for a few days.  It will be our 3rd attempt to goto the Island and  hike about.  The 2 previous times were met with foul weather and poor anchoring.  3rd tmes the charm?  Hope so

7.25 Charlevoix to Suttons Bay MI

7.25

Charlevoix to Suttons Bay, MI

We had a leisurely morning then hauled the anchor.  Jim had set it with an extra line where he spliced the chain to rope, extending our scope for situations like this where we are in deep water, 50 feet.  The road and anchor stored we started for the bridge for the 10 o’clock opening. Out into Lake Michigan, the wind was rippin’ 15 plus knots out of the south.  Would be great sailing if we wanted to go any direction other than south… but sail we did.  beam reach heading west, deck awash with freshwater. we sailed then tacked, all the while beating into the waves with a 20 degree heal… 3 hours later we were just barely south of Charlevoix pier head.  Captain had had enough and gave in.  Motor started, sails down.  Course set south to Suttons Bay.  The actual bay provided a break from the waves and the admiral was much happier.  Our slip is almost at the end of the pier but has pretty good protection.  Off to town.  

We walked the 4 or 5 blocks of town and decided on pizza for dinner.  The Roman Wheel.  Very good ‘up north’ pizza.  Thick crust, chewy… very tasty.  Back on board we were watching the sunset over the tree lined ridge when someone approached the boat and said our boat was aglow with the setting sun… she was able to snap a photo of it just before the sun sunk behind the ridge.  The picture is stunning!  You can judge for yourself.  what a lucky shot.  Thank you Theresa! 

We of course had to have Theresa and husband Steve over to thank them.  We had a great visit sharing stories of sailing and life.  They moved to Traverse City from the Chicago area when their jobs permitted and love it.  It is a beautiful here.  

The morning was a bit stormy, thus the reason to find a slip.  Storms predicted today and tonight.  Fortunately for us, the town is having a wooden boat show today.  The weather cleared and we went off to do laundry and pick up a few items from the store.  In no time we were back and headed to the boat show which is directly in front of us only separated by a small marshy area connected by a boardwalk.  The boats were lovely.  Many hand built, their owner / builders on hand to chat with interested parties.  Sea shanties were played by a small group of musicians.  Also here is the ‘Inland Seas’ schooner, her home port as well as the ‘Madeline’ who resides in Traverse City.   Both were giving free tours.  They are both replicas of old schooners that sailed the Great Lakes. Pretty cool.  

By chance, we found out the Coast Guard would be doing a demonstration here in the bay… At the appointed time a Coast Guard helicopter broke over the horizon and circled a few times.  The sheriffs boat cleared the harbor per their request.  A couple of passes then a slow approach.  Just off the pier in front of us the helicopter hovered then descended to about 20 feet off the water.  The water was blown up and around in sheets.  A rescue diver then jumped in the water and the helicopter ascended and took off.  The helicopter circled the bay a few times then returned for the swimmer.  A hoist was lowered down and once secure the diver was plucked form the water…so impressive!  Once on board they took off, did a wide circle of the bay and flew back over the crowd to cheers and waves.    How fortunate are we?  very.

Back on board we did a much needed scouring of the boat.  Removed the fly carcasses and a general scrubbing.  The weather for most of the day was very pleasant and mid 70’s.  yeah… 

A look at the sky an a check of the weather confirmed our decision for a sheltered bay and slip for the night.  Nasty weather over the Lake headed our way.  The skies darkened, the wind cut loose followed by a down pour.  Did I mention we just washed the boat?  so.. it gets an extra rinse.  Dinner on board.  Salmon, corn on the cob and dinner rolls.  Desert: ice cream.  The storms have passed, the wind has dwindled to nearly nothing.  Books to read, dished to do.  Like is good.  Hope you are well…

Cliffs along School House Bay 

7.21

Great news.  A text from son Ben early this morning….. Baby is on it’s way!   

We left School House Bay with good wind about 8am.  Sailed the entire way to Snail Shell Harbor, Faeyette, MI: U.P.  We had to run the engine to charge batteries for a couple hours since we have been on the hook for nearly a week now.  The weather predictions said today was to get to 90’.  Didn’t happen on the Lake.  It was pleasant though, only 2 shirts needed today.  The weather report says tomorrow will be stormy so boats are looking for a safe harbor. The 300 foot wall for boat to tie off to already had 4 boats.  We met several of the other boaters,  6 of us ended up at The Port Hole Bar for drinks or dinner.  Great fish and food for a place so far off the beaten path.     

The townsite of Faeyette is an abandoned iron ore smelting settlement from the 1800’s.  It is part of a Historic Faeyette State Park now.  The approach from the water reveals a huge limestone bluff and curls around to a small protected bay that is very deep.  Many of the buildings are still here and for the most part in good condition, preserved for park visitors to see.  Many buildings have artifacts from the era in them and there are plaques throughout the grounds explaining the area and uses of the sites and buildings.  Apparently this was a very filthy place at its height of industry.  Sanitation was non existent and health care rudimentary.  Today it is a step back in time and with a little imagination you can envision daily life, sights and smells. 

There is actually a proper beach here with sand, but the water is very cold.  The wind is still cutting a good path over the back of the ‘shell’ and is expected to continue and bring rain tomorrow.

Ken and Linda came aboard after dinner and we had a nice chat.  They are on a Pacific Sea Craft sailboat.  Very sea worthy, stout boats.  They have been coming here for many years and seem to be the local greeting party.  We were glad of it since the wall was so crowed and their help with lines was greatly appreciated.  They live in Wisconsin.  There are no electric lights here of any kind.  It is complete dark, illuminated only by the moon and stars.  Maybe some shooting stars tonight… 

Baby update!  Keegan Timothy arrived at 10:01am pacific time, Hawaii.  8 lbs 6 1/2 oz and healthy… Very happy for Ben and Amy.  It will be a few months before we are introduced proper but we look forward to pictures.  

7.22

Weathered in.  Wind and waves have us held up in Snail Shell Harbor, Faeyette.  We spent most of the morning below on the boat.  A light shower followed by 20 -25 knot winds with lots of sunshine in the protected harbor.  The Lake must be significantly more.  Another sailboat has arrived making it 6 on the wall as well as power boat.  we took the opportunity to look around.  there are over 20 buildings in  various stages of restoration.  The iron ore smelting facilities, kilns,etc.  A hotel, a boarding house, private homes, blacksmith… etc.  Some have artifacts and household objects staged as it might have looked for the setting and time period.  They have done a fantastic job depicting the life here, all except the filth that apparently was rampant.  There is also a short hike to the top of the bluff and circles through the woods.  a great way to spend the day.  I made homemade bread and brownies to pass the time as well.  After dinner one of the other boaters invited us to their boat.  They are planning to leave for southern waters next summer and live aboard their Jeneau 42 sailboat.  There boat is very fast and they have won several prominent Great Lakes races: The Queens Cup and The Hook.  We shared ideas with Russ and Lisa about living aboard and where we all might travel.  They seem to have the same vague outline as we do.   Out the Great Lakes then south for the first winter.  I think we be crossing paths again.  We are both planning on leaving in the morning for Beaver Island.

Sailing to Beaver Island 

7.23

The weather for the south portion of northern Lake Michigan is for high waves and strong wind.  It was very cold.  52’ for most of the day.  Slightly warm after noon.   The passage to Beaver Island was long, 12 -14 hours at 5 - 6 knots.  Up and gone by 6am.  Great wind to start. sailed over half the way then the wind all but died and the motor took it’s place.  The batteries will be fully charged for arrival. 

The flies are back and brought reinforcements.  they are biting everything exposed including each other. very unpleasant!  

 A call to both town marinas finds they are full and rating off.  The Chicago to Mackinaw racers are heading to their home ports or other races and all slips are full.  We will anchor out again tonight. Town should be hoppin’ with the racers celebrating. The harbor looks really festive with the Mac Racers here.  Flags flying and celebrating.  Russ and Lisa are here with ‘Tumultuous Uproar’.  They left and hour after us and arrived 2 hours before us… fast boat!  we all met up at the Shamrock.  The anchorage has filled with boats. 

   

7.24

We slept in till 8:30.  Most all the sailboats have left.  We are off to Charlevoix.  Winds light, flew the spinnaker, then motored then the wind freshened and the jib was unfurled.  5 - 6 knots with 10 knots of wind.  Smooth ride.  Sunny and 68.  What happened to summer?  

We were finally able to get a few calls out today.  No phone service for nearly a week.  A few texts was all.  

Venetian Festival, Charlevoix 

We made the ‘bridge’ just as it was going to open… which is every 30 minutes and into Round Lake, Charlevoix Harbor.  Our arrival has coincided with the Venetian Festval here.  It is quite an event.  Many side streets are closed here harboring lots of carnival rides and ooey gooey treats.   We took on water and refreshed the head,  then off to anchor as there is no room at the Inn…Lots of boats and people and activity.  fun to be had by all that want it.   We grabbed our shore bags and off we went.  A walk about to take in the sites.  There are 2 bands playing here in the park.   A couple hours and we had our fill. So off to the store for a few supplies.  Bags full, we navigated our way through the crowd.  Everyone is munching on elephant ears, drinking brewkies, and kicking back listening to music.  We must have looked a bit odd carrying groceries . Back on board we dug into the Haagen’Dazs and sat back to listen to the bands.  
The sun has set and the anchor lights are on.   Another good day.  

7.16…  (3 weeks out today) …

The wind had us pretty well pinned against the dock this morning.  Jim devised a plan to use a long line cleated to the aft of the boat so when to backed up he would pull in on the line and we would pivot into the wind.  worked great!  Wind was a howling right on the nose, a large barge with a tug (named Undaunted) in the aft V pushed through the bridges just as we were leaving.  Out through the bay we headed north.  We passed the biggest gantry crane in the Great Lakes.  The coast guard cutter ‘The Mackinaw' dwarfed us as we passed.  Lots of big stuff here.  This passage is the first of many with rocks and shoals to avoid.  Really glad for the chart plotter.  it gives a lot a reassurance knowing someone has ‘found’ the rocks and marked them so we don’t have to…

We motor-sailed the whole way.  Sunny and cool but pleasant.  a bit of chopped left from the winds the day before but not too bad.  We out-skirted the notorious Strawberry Islands where there is shallow water, rounded the tip of Peninsula Point State Part and found the warmth we have been looking for all summer.  Off with the hats and sweater and make ready to anchor.  Only 2 other power boats here so we pretty much had our choice of anchorages.  A good bottom and we held so off with the motor.  Home for a few days.  We lowered the dinghy and motor and were ready for a trip upon the shore, but the motor wouldn’t start.  grrr  several tries and no good.  Looks like a faulty fitting for the gas tank.  motor back on the rail mount and off to shore by oars, powdered by Jim.   A quick hike took us to the beach area and facilities with a camp store, bike and boat rentals, etc.  One of the employees, Jake, was very helpful and said he would try to get us the faulty gas line fittings in the morning while in town.  We continued exploring on foot and found  the theater in the woods that has nightly shows with actors of varying caliber.  maybe something for tomorrow night… more exploring and back to the boat.  The beach area gets quite busy during the day but pretty much shuts down a 5:30 - 6.  no more rentals so people head home or to their camp sites.  Us too.  dinner:  spaghetti with italian sausage and garlic bread.  A very peaceful night, no wind.   one additional sailboat at anchor.  

7.17

Morning was quiet and flat as glass on the bay here.  plans to meet Jake after noon, hopefully with the replacement parts.  A leisurely morning and off with the dinghy and motor, rowing to shore.  We picked up a map of trails and set off for a jaunt.  the Peninsula is pretty narrow and in no time we were on the Green Bay side.  A pelican sighting off shore.   It seems pretty weird to see them Up North… We continued to a light house then along the bay and back through the woods to the beach area.  Jake came through and had the parts, already attached to the old hose.  What a guy!  we paid him and included a tip for his trouble and off to see if it worked.  A lot of sputtering but it eventually bled out the air and seems to be running fine.  

The bay here is filling up.  back on board we were treated to an afternoon of antics by several other boaters.  First up, a very nice, new Boston Whaler with 2 adorable young girls.  they headed to shore and we lost interest in them.  Jim goes below to take a nap and I'm reading when out of the corner of my eye comes the Boston Whaler.  no one on board just gently gliding through the bay, anchor dragging.  I yelled to Jim, and we jumped in the dinghy to try to catch it.  Just as it is about to hit the sailboat next to us the sailboat owner who has just returned to his boat sees it and jumps forward and yells at the boat…  The two girls were on board sunning themselves and never knew they had drug anchor.  they jumped up and back to shore they head.  They were successful in not setting there anchor several more times,  finally giving up they left the bay.  the 3 sailboats now anchored are on high alert.  Next up, 2 pontoon boats, heavy loaded with bodies and booze.  they “toss” their anchors overboard and open their coolers.   Their boats begin drifting nearly immediately.   We watch them drift down on several boats, they realized what was happening and pulled their anchors up, motored forward and repeated the process.  By now there are about 15 other boats in the harbor, their anchors seem to be holding.  We are thankful our placement was not downwind of the antics.  The 2 pontoon boats continued these maneuvers for over an hour, all the while we and anyone near them is sitting on their bows or close to the rails keeping tabs.  Finally their anchors are set…NOT, so most of them jump in for a swim with their beverages and “floaties”.  2 women and a child stayed on the largest boat.  Of course the anchor was just taking a break from all it’s drifting and off it goes again. The swimmers,  oblivious to their drifting boat.  The 2 adults on board seem unconcerned.  The boat gets quite a distance away and seems to be heading to Washington  Island when the swimmers notice and start swimming for it, making sure not to spill their beverages.  It was a long swim but one of them made it to the boat about the time it caught on a no wake buoy.   The others then caught up and both boats headed back to ???? anywhere but here for the night.  We have had our share of anchoring mishaps so we always test the anchor before setting back to relax.

We decided we had better stay aboard incase there should be other arrant boats… The beach cleared out about 5:30.  The anchorage has filled with sailboats, 7 at last count.   The sun has set and only the waves are lapping at the hull.  Peace has returned…

entering Detroit Harbor

7.18  

Nicolet Bay to Washington Island / Detroit Harbor

  

A very quiet night and delightful mooring.  Up very early.  Jim off for a jog on shore.  He got a little disoriented and had an extra long journey.  upon his return I made bacon and pancakes.  In the process of readying the boat for departure one of the of sailors dinghy’d over to introduce himself and have a gam.  We departed soon after he left. Jim decided we should practice the technique known as  ‘sail off the anchor’ (no motor) is the event we might have to do this due to mechanical failure someday.  we had good clearance around us and the winds were light so we gave it a go.  It was slow going but we did it quite successfully.  we continued out of the harbor with light winds that picked up after clearing the Peninsula.  Unfortunately, it was short lived and within an hour we had to fire up the iron wind and drop sails.  the wind piped up to 15 - 20 knots as we rounded the waypoint. todays run would be about 20 miles, keeping clear of islands, rocks and shoals again.  The approach to Washington Island is full of warnings.  Go here, not there, beware of the ferry boats coming and going every 30 minutes… The guide book also said to watch for the color change in the bay as it is quite shallow indicating the really shallow areas.  It did NOT mention the huge barge and tug that was dredging and we were forced to make a quick retreat to avoid it and the 2 ferries converging at the harbor mouth.  The ferries exchanged places and we headed back in after a call to the tug to ensure all was clear.  He gave us the go ahead and back in we went, passed the tug and barge which by the way was dredging the channel.  This in turn had clouded the entire channel and bay.  the water was milky green, no way to see any differing color changes to help navigation. 

Really thankful again for chart plotters.  It clear shows whats under the boat for depth and obsticals.  we continued very slowly. Since the channel is only about 50 feet wide, there is virtually no room for error.  We continued to the anchor area to find we were the only boat!  We have sailed and anchored for over 10 years and this is the first time we have ever been alone in a harbor at anchor.  It took 2 attempts to set the anchor in the oozy mud here.  After a short rest we were off to town.  The motor fired right up.  the dock area is pretty “sleepy”, town is 2 miles away.  its after 4pm.  A little walk about and off to the other side of the bay for dinner at a restaurant, The Sailors Pub,  recommended by our friend Sue.  But the dinghy motor won’t run.  starts but refuses to idle or run in low.  There is a Yamaha  mechanic next to the restaurant so after a few more ties it stated and we zipped out in high gear, flying across the bay with waves lapping over the sides… yee ha!  Then plaht… the motor flat out quits.  middle of bay, wind a whipping.  over and over again Jim pulls till it fires and we are off again.  As luck would have it our arrival coincides with mechanic being ‘off island’  fixing another boat and it’s after 5pm Friday… What are the chances ?  …. so we left our info at the office and went next door to the Sailors Pub.  Looks are deceiving.  It seems we are entering a rundown, backwater establishment when through the door we see a very respectable, clean eatery.  The wait staff is genuinely friendly.  Our waitress, Donna, was the former owner, her husband the cook.  They work here in the summers because they love it, but winter in Naples, Fl.  good choice.   The food was fantastic!  I wish it were close enough to eat here again.  If you ever find yourself on Washington Island WI, do yourself a favor.  Eat at Sailors Pub.

Dinner over, we went back to the boatyard / marina to find it closed for the night.  Don’t blame them.  it’s friday evening. We met several couples cooking on the dock from Green Bay (we didn’t hold it against them, being Packers fans and all…).  They were fun to chat with and offered help if the dinghy gave us trouble.  We said our goodbyes fully expecting Jim would be rowing back across the wind whipped harbor but the motor fired right up and we were off.  Made it all the way without quitting.  It must have heard my comment to Jim about trading it in at the marina if Andy can’t fix it… It’s quite cool and we got dinghy butt from the waves so we were wet too.  Tucked below, we are cozy.  Anchor light on.  still the only boat here.  One sailboat attempted the channel but turned about and headed back to sea…. kind of erie. I am so full from dinner, and dessert, flour-less chocolate cake and ice cream, I can hardly type.  

7.19

rough night.  I was so full I tossed and turned a lot.  That and being at anchor with quite a breeze and unfamiliar anchorage, I guess it got the better of me. With the dawn we were up and ready for a new adventure.  As it turned out, we were to have a great day!  8 am we went off to to see if we could find Andy from the marina.  The outboard worked fine all the way ???  We waited till after 9 then a call to Andy.  He came over and was able to give us a fix for the problem.  As it turns out, Jake, from Nicolet Bay, although good intentioned, fit the hoses with the wrong size and wrong type of fittings for the gas to motor tank.  It was handed to us with fittings attached and we assumed, correctly affixed.  Andy, a Yamaha dealer, popped the fittings off to discover they were the wrong size, taped to make it fit and in the process they had taped nearly completely over the intake hole. Little fuel and sucking air.  Andy had the proper fittings and soon had us on our way.  Hopefully this works throughout this trip and beyond.  As we were getting ready to leave, a water snake cruised past the dingy… Andy’s brother Lou from the marina said they are aggressive because people swat at them.  I just wanted to be far away from the darn thing.  

Next, off to town to rent bikes.  Lou tipped us off about the Flyin’ and Fish Boil at the airport today.  Yipee… a damp, cool ride across the bay, we rented a tandem bike and off we went.  We discovered a few years back that tandem bikes are the way to go to keep piece in the family.  I am a pretty slow, uncoordinated biker and Jim likes to go, fast and hard.  He has far more strength than I do or ever will so, this saves the marriage.  4.5 miles later we arrived.  Close to a 100 small planes there and pots of fish a boilin’.  We saw a ‘Wayco', and several biplanes, 2 of which, ‘Stinson’s’,  flew over us as we enter the harbor yesterday.  Lots of experiment crafts too.  Many planes coming and going the 2 hours we were there.  

The fish boil was quite interesting.  They had 5 pots a boiling and at the appointed time, the ‘Boil Master’ threw the kerosene in the fire to finish the pot and boil it over.  Talking to one of the locals, he said as we suspected, that part is for show.  It was quite impressive.  Another local said it was not worth the trouble to eat though.  Lots of bones.  the fish is thrown in the pot in large chunks, white fish I believe, which is reddish before cooking… It looked pretty bland with the boiled potatoes and onions… and picking out the bones, just not appetizing.  We had hotdogs.  

A quick stop at one of the dueling Lavender Farms here on the island.  It smelled so nice, and back to the harbor to return the bike.  Snake check and off we went for home.  The harbor has cleared up from the dredging and the chop is down so no dinghy butt today… Jim did take a coupled good splashes over the starboard side though.  At least is wasn’t as cold as it’s been.  Donna from the restaurant last night said the Island has not even seen a 70 degree day yet this year.  I think it got to 72 today.. it was at least sunny.  

Leftovers for dinner then ‘Saturday Night at Sea’ shanty songs serenading us for the sunset.  It is much warmer below tonight.  I asked Jim to turn the dorade vents this morning so the wind would not blow directly into the cabin.  Great improvement.  We can still get fresh air but it’s not funneling through the cabin anymore.  The vessels at our anchorage have quadrupled.  All choosing to anchor much closer to shore.

7.20

Up with the sun, well not quite but 6 am is not far off sunrise up here.  I stayed in bed.  Jim noticed one of or neighbors had already left.  early birds.  He ventured on deck about 7 to prepare us for departure to Washington Harbor, but known by the locals as ‘School House Beach’.  He called down to me, ‘The neighbors are drifting’, they had not left as we thought but were slowly dragging their anchor across the very shallow bay.  Jim jumped in our dinghy and set off after them.  He yelled and banged on their hull waking the crew.  The owner woke and came on deck to Jim’s call and was told of his predicament.  ‘Ohhh, not good’, he says.  Jim, ‘well, as yet you’re ok but in a bit, not so much’.  he left them and returned to continue our departure.  A few minutes later 2 people and a dog head off for shore. They did not reset their anchor… We continued our preparations keeping an eye on their boat which is still slowly making it’s way downwind.  They returned to their boat and went below.  Nothing more we can do for them… This boat happened to share a dock with us for 4 days, 3 nights in Sturgeon Bay.   

We up’d our anchor and made our way past them, through the really narrow, shallow channel.  I took the wheel with Jim sitting close.  My heart beating, watching the chart as well as the buoys when up ahead comes the ferry… I’m feeling a panic coming on but Jim assures me all is fine, stay on course.  We pass, my blood pressure starts to decrease.  The wind is just a snortin’ out of the south.  At this point,  boaters have a choice, they can go to the west or the east around the Island.  Going east means going through the passage known as Death’s Door.  Supposedly there are around 100 ship wrecks there.  We make our turn west, Jim raised the reefed mainsail.  Following seas make a comfortable ride.  We are past’ and saluted by a boat we recognize from the marina at Sailors Pub.  They appear to be heading back to Fish Creek, their homeport. 

We sail slowly most of the way.   Nothing but shore to run into today.  The shoreline of Washington Island is really beautiful.  Intermittently through the trees you can see the limestone bluffs.  Some appear to have caves.  It is a fantastic landscape.  We round the point and take down sail, motor the last mile or so into the harbor.  It is large and protected from all but north winds.  Tonights winds are predicted from the south, we are good.  We are the only boat anchored here.  A few swimmers and one power boat towing kids and a skier.  The beach is limestone rocks worn smooth by the passage of time, wind, waves and weather.  Shoes making walking bearable.   We took the dinghy to the shore around the point where the bluff is.  Very impressive.  Birds nest in the crevasses  and spiders big enough to eat scurry about the rocks.  Walking is difficult and the shore is narrow.  Back in the dinghy we are straight into the waves that carried us here.  Jim takes the brunt of it on the upwind side.  Tough way to get the days bath in.  After dinner we head to School House Beach directly in front of us.  The shore drops off quickly here, 2 -3 feet of water covered rocks, dropping rapidly to over a100 feet the same.  The anchor should hold well tonight.  

On shore we are told of the Farm House Museum down the road so we are off.  It was really interesting.  Many old buildings, machinery and a few live animals replicating farm life in the 1800’s.  We wandered about then headed back.  Boarding the dinghy we discover it partially deflated.  Must have found a sharp rock among all the weathered ones… We will keep the pump on board from now on.  The winds have diminished, the sun has set and we are soon to follow.  

7.15

The summer that won't come…

The forecast last night and today was for high winds and cold, 40 ish  degrees.  The night was pretty roll'y.  At the slip we had a list (lean) of 5 degrees.  Jim was up twice during the night to add / secure lines. The wind howled most of the night too.  20 knot winds, gusting higher.  In the morning we opted to stay put in the harbor with the boat and do the Peninsula by car.  Good choice.  We got to see all the places we planned to see by boat but much faster.  We drove up the west side and came back the east side.  To our surprise there were  numerous places were large amounts of hail accumulated during the night. It really was cold out during the night. 

The west side has many lovely little towns with plenty of shops to buy “stuff”.   The first two, Egg Harbor then Fish Creek.  We would have liked to have seen the “fish boil” in Fish Creek but it is an evening affair and this was only our second stop.  The area is known for ‘fish boils’.  They boil taters, onions, veggies till tender in a BIG outdoor kettle.  Then just before it’s all cooked, they toss in the fish… usually cod.  Then some crazy sole tosses a quart or so of kerosene into the fire and the whole pot boils over.  They say it’s quite a show… oh well.  boiled fish sounds gross to me so I’m good with missing that part.  I did get a really great treat though.  Frozen  custard!  It was awesome.  They mixed it on a cold marble tile (like Cold Stone) with different selections made by each patron.  Mine was ‘Get up and Dance!’… coffee custard, heath bar, toasted almonds, waaay good.  

We continued ups and around the Peninsula stopping at each little town and harbor.  One stop was at a scenic overlook on a high bluff.  The limestone cliff was only visible if you walked out on the catwalk.  The 3 seconds I was out there it looked really cool.  Jim could give a better description though.  The waves on the bay continued to build as the day wore on.   We snacked on cheese curds, artisan bread and apples for lunch… yes the custard was before lunch, it’s vacation!  We went north as far as the road would allow… the Ferry to Washington Island, North Port.
An about face and back toward Sturgeon Bay.  The Lake Michigan (east) side was quite calm.  Kids flying kites, people hanging at the beach.  We made a quick pull over for a geographical marker… the 45th Parallel.  My home town Johannesburg, MI near Gaylord is on the 45th parallel as well.  This whole area reminds me of home, birch trees, woodland ferns, Cedar trees… but not any limestone cliffs near Jo-burg that I can remember.  

We returned the car late afternoon, they gave us rides to and from the boat and did a bit of laundry.  Dinner was grilled tuna and cilantro lime rice.  desert, fresh organic strawberries with cocoa whipped cream… 

We are planning to head out in the morning for Nicolet Bay about 30 miles north of here.  It is part of the Peninsula State Park near the town of Ephraim.  Friends have told us it is a great stop and the reviews in the guide book second that.  We plan to anchor out, the first time of the trip… There have been few opportunities so far but we expect that to change now that we are pretty far north.  We will continue up and around Door County and cross over to the Michigan U.P. in the next week or so.  

Den don’d ya know, we gunna haff ta have us some pasties, ayh!!!

7.13

heading to Sturgeon Bay, WI

Up early and on the Lake by 9:30.  Lots of west wind, no motoring today.  Sunny most of the day but still chilly.  Sweaters and hats on.  25 miles, 6 -7 knots on the GPS.  20+ knot winds gusting higher.  The boat kept rounding up into the wind so Jim had to take the wheel and relieve the auto pilot.  Following seas made for a smooth ride.  The heal of the boat was steady over 20 the last hour or so, standing down below felt like being at “Mystery Spot”.  The walls all slanted yet you are upright.   Douse the sails and into the channel.  The mouth of the channel was clearly marked.  Wind on the nose motoring through the cut.  

Before casting off Jim plotted our course on the chart plotter and consulted the chart book to ensure we would stay clear of shallow spots, rocks, etc. As we made our through the channel, Jim noticed over head power lines.  Grab the chart!  I can’t find anything about overhead lines…I convince myself we can't possibly clear them although Jim assured me we had plenty of clearance.  I decided the best approach was to be like an ostrich and bury my head, or at least my eyes in my hands.  Of course Jim was correct, we had plenty of clearance.  Safely through, we pulled into  Skipper Buds for fuel (33 gals diesel) and a pump out.  The young men assisting were helpful and pleasant.  Soon we were on our way again.  3 bridges to pass under. The first opens “on demand” so a  VHF call to the bridge tender and when our approach was close enough he obliged.  The next 2 are on the 1/4 and 1/2 hours  following a call to the tender.  We took a slip at Harbor Marina / Skipper Buds.  Very nice, a band / music across the channel, some lunch and tidying up were in order.  Exploring the area, there is a Maritime Museum here, so another tour tomorrow.  Dinner at Kitty O’ Reilly's Irish Pub.  Great atmosphere.  Big bar stools, 2 foot X 2 foot seats, flowers and greenery with an outside seating area.  3 piece band playing our kind of music, soft rock, and a really nice meal of Irish Pub food.  We stayed for a few hours then headed home.  Boat sweet boat. 

7.14

Trolls.   We are docked nearly under the Michigan Street bridge but it’s pretty quiet.  The cars last night sounded like very distant thunder.  Kind of soothing.  Today and tomorrow the bridge will be closed to auto and foot traffic due to maintenance.  Marine traffic will continue however.  Jim set off to replenish out LP tank on foot.  It is suppose to be only a few blocks from here but carrying an propane tank?… I guess he can count it as his “workout” for the day.  He successfully got the tanks filled and was given a ride back to the boat by an employee… thanks! Arms still in sockets.  We put in a full day.  A short hike up the hill to a meat market stocked us with fresh cuts and an organic / local grown market had a few perishable items so we are good for a few days.  Food stowed and a quick lunch then off to the Maritime Museum and a tour of the tug John Purves.  

The museum was nice.  The tug tour was really interesting.  For a period of 15 years the John Purves was the most powerful tug on the Great Lakes.  It was decommissioned then restored for tours here in Sturgeon Bay.  It took 18 full time volunteers 5 years.  The cold front we have been hearing about is flirting around us.  When stopped by the Coast Guard a few days back one of the officers told me there was going to be a “polar vortex” coming through Monday - Tuesday.  

So far (yeah) we have pretty much evaded the rain while underway except for a few quick spurts.  It is cozy down below, even more so with dinner cooking.  Chicken, jicama and zucchini.  

7.12 Kewaunee WI

7.12

Kewaunee WI  

We toured the Maritime Museum and the Submarine SS Cobia.  Highly recommend visit to it.  Very well done.  The tour guide was very informative and well versed.  Many war time subs and sea vessels were made here during and after the war, WWII.  The SS Cobia was built on the east coast but 28  subs like it were built here.  We spent over 2 hours there and could have seen a bit more but we needed to hit the Lake. 




We set off just as the fog started rolling in shortly after noon.  It cleared briefly for 30 -45 minutes giving a brief window of low visibility then closed in around us for the remained of the trip.  25 miles.  Fog horn tooting every 2 minutes, radar checks every 5.   AIS at varying intervals.  We had to motor all the way.  No wind.  









The approach to Kewaunee was nerve racking.  1,000 feet off shore and the pier head, still nothing in sight.  It’s hard to believe that  even with wind there is still fog on the lakes this year.  We could hear the fog horn from the light house which is off shore and the music along the channel from the Trout Festival that’s going on here.   Temps still pretty chilly.  Hot tea to keep us warm.  the marina is pretty small but adequate.  We are 1 of 2 sail boats both transients.  They are a fishing community.  We are currently fogged in with rain expected throughout the night. I took the opportunity to make a nice home cooked dinner.  Steak, fried potatoes with onion, red peppers and corn, and Bob’s mom’s perrogies.  The heat from the cooking warmed the cabin nicely.  Dishes done and getting tucked in to bed early.  

the "Badger" car / people ferry
getting ready to cross the Lake to Ludington MI

  

Sheboygan - Manitowoc

7.09 

Sheboygan  WI    

At least our docking skills keep us in the harbor ...

Warm fuzzies…

The passage was very chilly.  Sweaters on the whole way.  We motor sailed for a couple of hours, then flew the new spinnaker for a couple of hours.  Motored the the last leg, 10 + miles.  Flies continued to build all day, the chilly temps kept them at bay for the most part.  We secured the lines and quick hopped to the next finger pier to help another couple, Larry and Kelly.  They are on a Passport 40 (1983 / S.V. Escape)) also. We agreed to meet up later, swap stories and get / give each other tours of our boats.  Passport sailboats are made in Taiwan but they designed by an American, Bob Perry.  They are crafted with lots of lovely wood below, rare to find on the newer manufactured boats.  

We cleaned up, hosed the boat (flies!) and set off for town.  The community here is great.  You can easily walk to town by road or the board walk.  There was not a person who did not greet us!  Hi, hello, have a nice day…  We wandered about, it was already going on 7pm.  Lots of really interesting restaurants and shops.  We decide to go to GM’s… our marina welcome packet included flyers from many local establishments.  Gm’s offered free happy hour appetizers and 2 for 1 drinks… no brainer!  It is a real saloon type establishment.  Very reminiscent of the Sand Bar in Saugatuck.  The bar tender, J.P., was super friendly, and honored our 2 for 1 drink coupon… as it turns out, apparently everybody gets 2 for 1… happy day!  Our drink of choice tonight was Jameson neat… 2 healthy pours each, chicken wings and all the popcorn you could shovel in and I had a warm fuzzy for the rest of the evening. We settled up the bill… always an anxious time when it comes to Jameson tabs… the bartender say’s “ that’ll be 8 bucks…. whaaaaa ? !!! happy day again…

Heading back we pass a woo fired pizza place… smells good, looks good… eat it (aka Andrew Zimmerin / Travel Channel)… More adult beverages and a fantastic pizza: we were totally stuffed… Jim was very accommodating to his slightly inebriated wife.   Held my hand all the way back and tucked me in… J.P. at GM;s said come back Thursday… he makes his famous Sloppy Joes… I have to find another coupon for drinks :)

7.10

Comercial fishing boats on the harbor wall

morning was cool, pleasant and sunny.  Fog along the lake shore.  Seagulls everywhere making their presents known.  A huge flock of white pelicans live here…only in the summers though.  We were getting ready to head to town  to explore when we saw that Larry and Kelly (the Passport sailboat) next to us were up and about.  We toured each others boats and compared notes.  They are in love with their boat as much as we are with ours and find it has the qualities we were both looking for for off shore sailing and comfort.  They were heading north with another couple hoping to make the North Channel this summer.  Unfortunately they couldn't start their engine! Jim went over to help and after some trouble shooting they discovered water in the engine, Yikes!…. It seems the engine syphoned some water after shutting down.  good news, their mechanic is only a few towns south of here, bad news delay in departure.  The diagnose was correct and the mechanic was able to fix the problem.  We took off to town and had a nice tour.  what a lovely place.  We walked around town some more. I highly recommend a stop here if you are in the area.  Town is clean, people could’t be friendlier.  We met another couple on a sailboat across the dock, Larry and Jolene.  They offered their car so we could get a few groceries.  We are now well provisioned.  We invited Jo and Larry for dinner to thank them for the car.  Great visit.  both retired, living here on the boat in the summer and winters in Iowa… They have a lovely Bayfield 40 / (SV.Samaria).  Wood interior, great layout, very comfortable.  We walked to town for a night cap to meet with the other 2 couples traveling north.  We are keeping quite late nights lately.  I think we will adjust quite well to retirement!  

7.11

We saw Larry, Kelly, Jerry and Joan off this morning, then had a nice chat with the Larry and Jolene before we headed out.  Long pants, sweaters, hats, even a blanket.  Typical July weather … for Alaska maybe.  

20 miles 3.5  hours later we are in Manitowoc, WI.  Sailed all the way at average of 6 knots.  At least the flies did’t come aboard.  The Coast Guard however did.  We were in the breakwater heading to the marina in Manitowoc.  They were doing vessel checks on boats. First question, “do you have weapons on board?”  No, we don’t.  Somewhat intimidating but they were very courteous and professional.  I circled the inner harbor with the Coast Guard boat following closely while 2 crew members boarded, 1 went went below with Jim, the other stayed in the cock pit with.  Divide and conquer?  They requested to see documents, flares, safety equipment, etc.  Bilge check, proper signage for waste water, a few questions and we were given an all clear, no citations… 

Manitowoc 

Wind is just a howling in the harbor, 20 knots on the Lake.  Temps say 73 but I guess that is in the office at someones desk where they send info out by wifi.  So, we are having a hot beverages… warms the sole and the tummy.  Dinner in town.  Should have eaten on the boat.  We did not find this stop as friendly or tasty as Sheboygan.  We will tour the Maritime museum today and the submarine USS Cobia.  28 subs like it where built here during WWII.  Then off in the rain / fog to Kewaunee, 25 miles north.   

Shore leave : Winthrop Harbor - Minneapolis

7.02 - 7.06

Shore leave

Wednesday was spend in harbor, on boat.  Rain, cloudy, blowing winds and more rain.  we forced ourselves out and off for an hour with cloudy skies and mist. we had to stretch the long muscles and do something.  we walked the perimeter of the marina, 1 mile then back.  dinner of left-overs and early to bed.  Thursday off to Minneapolis!

Brother Richard, mom Nee, Marianne, niece Bridget and friend Taylor as well as Jim and I wedged ourselves in a mini van and set off for Minneapolis in the morning, bound for Alex, Nicki and Miss Nora Jean's for the weekend.  Surprisingly it was quite comfortable even with the 7 of us, our gear, food and snacks.  ETA 6 hours… what a great holiday we had.  Nicki and Alex could not have been better hosts.  This was their first family gathering in their new home with their new family. We had great food, lots of laughs and stories, Cricket Man threatened an appearance but was fended off with the arrival of ice-cream and root-beer floats. 



 A trip to Minihaha Falls, some to the Mall of America and a BBQ rounded out the festivities.   Garret and Minsook flew in from Oklahoma for the reunion, on leave from the Army.  Jim, Peg, Tom and Katrina joined us as well as Sue, Beth, Andy and neighbors Ryan and family. Paul freshly back from the east coast hurricane evacuation paid a quick visit as well.  Miss Nora got to visit with her great grandma Jean, 4 generations together.  The only down side was the return trip.  sad to leave the family followed by stop and go traffic throughout Wisconsin.  8 hours later… Laundry and a light dinner.  sunset over the marina lovely but not as impressive as home where we have no land to obstruct  the view.  

Tomorrow off to Milwaukee and Cannoli’s!  

7.07

Milwaukee WI

We motored out of North Point Marina and continued to do so till Milwaukee.  No wind to be found until we made the final waypoint turn 3 miles off Milwaukee.  the decision was made to keep the sails tucked away.  At lot of work for barely an hour of sailing.  The flies of the grinder variety choose to accompanied us all the way however.   By grinders, I mean the kind that Great Lakes boaters are quite familiar with.  They descend on slow moving boats by the hundreds.  they crawl all over you.  They do not seem to care if you kill them.  they do not fly off.  they are easily killed with just your hand because.  We employ a grinding motion to ensure death.  Landfall deters most of the remaining ones at least and back to sea they go.   

Docking was difficult because the wind that eluded us all day descended off the bank above the harbor blowing easterly and pushing the boat off the dock.  Slip mates came to the rescue and helped secure lines.   Jim hosed the boat off to remove the fly carcasses and the crew enjoyed refreshing showers.  Today was the first day of the trip it was hot enough to wear swim suits though.  Dinner on Brady Street at a Thai restaurant.  Tasty but too filling.  Great service.  A quick stop at for milk and back to the boat.  

7.08

Aniversaries

Today we have owned S.V. Inishnee 5 years.  Today Jim and I have been Married 20.  Happy on both accounts.  

We woke to a lovely morning.  Ate, showered and off for a shore excursion.  First up, the Public Library, 2+ miles away.  We walked along the waterfront to Wisconsin Ave. and the Art Musuem.   the Art Museum structure has wing like appendages that actually fold open during hours of operation weather / wind permitting.  they close and reopen at noon as well.  The waterfront here is wonderful.  Walking, jogging and biking paths go for miles.  Public parks and recreation too. 
Mission 1: Public Library.  We were able to download the Garmin software update for our AIS unit.  It indeed fixed the problem.  The AIS and Garmin Chart Plotter weren't “talking” to each other so we were not able to see other AIS ships on  the plotter, only the Ipad unit and the Nav Station unit.  All fixed.  Now the cockpit units are functioning and talking. A quick lunch on the river walk then Mission 2: Cannoli’s… one each for now, one each for later… yum! One of my favorite shows was ‘everybody loves Raymond’.  Marie was always making cannolis for Raymond… I decided I had to see what the fuss was.  My first cannoli was here in Milwaukee years ago.  They are worth the fuss.  A crunchy conical shaped cookie like vessel, that you can get dipped in chocolate! and then filled with a mascarpone chocolate chip filling that is lightly sweetened…. kind of rich but so tasty.  
Mission 3, Anniversary dinner. We returned to the boat after the 4ish hour walking excursion, cleaned up and off to the ‘Garage’ for dinner.  Nothing fancy, just good food.  Smoky veggie hoggie for Jim,  Burger with caramelized onions and swiss for me.  A few adult beverages then back to the boat for a night cap.  the temps today were very pleasing.  A good breeze with mostly sunny skies.  evening brought on cumulus clouds in varying shades of auburn and blues.  We tidied things up for departure in the morning.  Destination: Sheboygan, WI.  

Chicago to Winthrop Harbor

6.29 

Parades and Storms  

Sunday we went to the Chicago Gay Pride Parade. What an eye opener.  I can't say I enjoyed the parade all that much, so many people you couldn't see and floats etc... however the attendees were flaming fantastic!  Most dressed in some form of rainbow attire.  Some, next to nothing attire.  The most interesting, in my opinion, were the girls who used two, 2 inch sections of electrical tape in the shape of an “ X “ to cover their nipples and something on their bottoms.  Many had statements marked on their tummies professing something. Fishnet clothing for very part of your body in every color you can imagine.  Yang went with. She said the news report estimated more than a million people attended.  wow.  It was really interesting and everyone was having fun, not a drunken debacle that some of these events turn out to be.  maybe we left to soon... or     just in time 

We returned to the boat and made homemade pizza with various toppings and Jim grilled them on our new infrared grill.  We bought a Solaire Infrared Grill just before leaving for the trip.  It has been working really well.  We are still in the learning curve stage for using it because...  cooks at a much higher temp.  Low burner seems best and the food has a fantastic flavor.    Experiments have included steak, veggies, fish, chicken and pizza.  

6.30   

last night we needed to charge the batteries because we have been on a mooring ball since arriving 4 days ago.  the alternator wouldn't work which meant cut / conserve electronic use immediately… Sunday morning Jim was at the manuals trouble shooting and isolated the problem to the new voltage regulator.  A call to the manufacturer and a resetting of the programing and we were up and charging… yeah!  we charged the batteries for a couple hours then off to site see and some Chicago Dogs.  We asked around and decided to go with the recommendation of Max’s … the dogs were quite good. We walked around and ended up at the Planetarium.  It's a lot farther than it looks from the Monroe Harbor / Chicago Yacht Club water front.  We ( I ) decided we should return via the city bus.  air-conditioning!  we returned to the boat because the weather report issued threatening weather in the approaching storms… estimated wind gusts of 30 - 40… one report said they could gust 70 - 90… hatches secure and cushions stowed we had our Injera bread with a conglomeration of fixing for dinner.  It was fantastic!  Storm #1 came through, highest wind gusts at 39 knots… the clouds after were lovely.  

7.1

we made it through the storms.  The worst was actually after the storms passed.  the winds died down but the harbor was quite confused.  it was a sloppy mess.  we bounced around quite a bit and the mooring ball slapped and ricocheted off the side of the boat throughout the night.  we now know why seasonal boaters have collars of “noodles” wrapped around their balls… the morning revealed  the  damage.  A 5 foot section on each side of the hull is marred from the concussions.  we will have to wait till we get to another venue to check the extent of the damage.  grrrr

the morning is clear so we are off to North Point Marina, Winthrop Harbor, IL.  

7.1 pm

A quick and easy passage.  40 miles.  great south  west winds.  6 hours to our destination, hull speed a steady 7 knots .  It is the largest marina on Lake Michigan, 1477 slips.  Most unfilled.  It took us 1 1/2 hours to actually secure our slip.  it seems most boats come by land (?) because the marina office kept giving us land marks via street names to get here, being put on hold multiple times with someone different on the other end each time… the first few slips were too small, had boats / lines obstructing the slip or there was no room to maneuver… finally in a suitable slip. Jim ran off the the office to take care off paperwork before they closed for the day… a flip flop blowout, a 10 minute jog, a detour to Skipper Buds to get a loaner power cord adaptor (thank you Scott) and we are here for the next week.  We will do a road trip to see our lovely Miss Nora (grandbaby) in Minneapolis for the holiday weekend…

Rich, Mary and Bridget, family, joined us for dinner at the  local restaurant The Tropics. They live about 45 minutes from here.  A nice bottle of wine of the boat after and then to bed…