The British Virgin Islands

Inishnee from Jost Van Dyke

Big Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Nov. 9 - 11

After nearly 10 days at sea we choose Jost Van Dyke, BVI to make landfall and check in with customs.  

main street Jost Van Dyke

We could see the lights and silhouette from the Islands miles off shore in the early morning light.  Being careful of our new surroundings, we made a large circle waiting for sunrise.  Once we could clearly see our surroundings we headed for our destination.  We picked up a morning ball in the harbor and began what would be come a 3 day recuperation.  We were tired but pretty psyched about our accomplishment.  We sat in awe of our surroundings as we waited for customs to open.  The mountains jutting up from the shoreline.  The green, yellow and brown from trees and vegetation a welcome change.  To occupy our time and facilitate getting shore Jim detached the dinghy (Craic: her unofficial name) from her confines on deck and launched her into the clear, turquoise waters of the Caribbean.  We discovered several more flying fish on deck.  A tropic bird and several pelican soared over head, inspecting the harbor.  We freshened up the cockpit with a freshwater bath.  The boat was aired out and and we too bathed using the cockpit shower.   It had been over 11 days since we had had a proper shower.  We tidied up the cabin and tried to make sense of the mayhem below deck.   

At the appointed hour, Captain Jim took the ships papers and the crew id’s to BVI customs.  He returned within an hour, with the blessing of the BVI officials to come ashore and stay awhile.  We were soon all on shore and ready for the next adventure even if our weary minds and stiff muscles had other ideas.  Main street, a lovely sand road, almost 2 lanes wide, paralleling the shore line. Taxi’s pass by offering rides.  

maintenance 

First stop, Foxy’s.  A local bar / restaurant.  We will have our first ‘lime’ time: to have good time, BVI style.   We toasted with ‘Painkillers’  and took in the surroundings.  Sandy shallow harbor.  Real palm trees.  The locals with great, big smiles.  It’s hot. Sunny.  Our attempt to work our way through the drink menu was supplemented with conch fritters, burgers and fries.  Having made a dent in sampling the beverage menu, naps were next.

  

Corsair's... words to live by

Our remaining 2 days were spent reacclimatizing to being semi land lubbers, doing chores and seeing the sights.   While doing laundry I met Debbie.  She co-owns Coursair’s bar and eatery.  She and friends Dan and RJ run the place.   Fantastic food and a great atmosphere.

It's not always sunny 

The Laundry is run by a lovely young mom.  2 washers. 2 dryers.  Pay cash when you finish, 2 dollars a load, the honor system.  One of the locals manage to get 3 loads of laundry into one washer as well as stuffing it into one dryer.  I waited and waited for his load to finish so I could transfer our things while his when round and round.  I finally relented and hung our things on the line. His dryer was starting to smell a bit ‘hot’ so I separated his load into 3 and started the process for him again.  4 hours later we had clean, dry sheets, clothes etc.  Our ‘friends’ things still tumbling about.  Technically he only did ‘one load’ though. 

Jim climbed the mast and reattach the antenna wire.  We consumed more Painkillers.  We also hired Mr. Bunn and his taxi to drive us to the Bubbly Pool on the other side of the island.  The drive itself was breathtaking.  The ‘taxi’ (minivan) was a bit …. rough.   The door left open for easy exit.   We had to walk the last 1/2 mile on foot, the van was not able to get traction on the extremely steep hill due to wet pavement from the morning rain.  No worries.  Off we went, on foot.   A mile plus later… (people who don't walk much grossly underestimate walking distances) we were warmly greeted at Foxy’s Taboo, the counterpart to the downtown establishment. 

   

Road Town Tortola, BVI

The Bubbly Pool is a natural pool in which the ocean dumps 10’s of thousands of gallons of sea water into it with each wave.  Water is forced through a narrow opening, and must negotiate  in and around numerous boulders causing it to froth and bubble.  It eventually enters the pool area.  It was THE BEST Bubbly Pool any of us had even experienced!!!   However, it was also the only one we had ever experienced.  Their was little in the way of wind, an important factor in how bubbly the pool gets.  Today, the bubbly action was pretty tame.  We were the only ones there and it felt very peaceful though.  

Each day morning and night the ‘ice man’ comes by via boat, cruisers purchase if needed.  The marring are operated in the same manner.  An agent comes by and collects the daily rate, $30 U.S.  

buoys  trying to keep the cargo ferry afloat

Road Town, Tortola, BVI

Nov. 12 - 13

Off to Tortola, Road Town, BVI.  We needed to refuel and take on water.  We also all wanted some time to explore so we took a slip of the night.  All services are meters on the islands like fuel typically is.  You pay for what you use.  We bought a few fresh supplies.  Got caught up on family contacts and finalized our flights home Dec 1 - 15.  A walk about town found a small but bustling city.  *Total population of ALL the islands: 25,000.  Like Jost Van Dyke, they drive on the other side of the road.  Here it means something though.  Lots of traffic… Jost Van Dyke’s main street is sand… The streets are not laid out in a linear fashion.  They twist and curve.  It was relatively clean for a bigger Island city.  We found a decent grocery, shared a pint of ice-cream.  Found a marine store for a few bolts and Sunny Carrib, a local shop making and selling spice blends and sauces.   

native visitors

Great Harbor, Anegada, BVI

Nov  13 - 15

A very interesting island, unlike the others in the area.  It’s highest point only 28 feet.  It is ringed by reefs and sandy beaches.  Our approached sent a sobering reminder to follow channel markers and watch depths.  A cargo ferry was barley visible, nearly submerged, having hit one of the reefs a week ago.  It was heavily laden, carrying provisions for the island: food, as well as fuel, lumber and a Jeep!  The police were patrolling it’s perimeter, a tugboat was tied to it attempting to free it.  It was finally towed off the afternoon of the 14th, a afloat, sort of, in the harbor.  

Berry IN his office

We paid our mooring fee to Barry, he having motored out with his office.  He is quite the ambassador for the island.  He was featured on last seasons tourist guide.  

Spiny Lobster

We toured the island via rental jeep and had a blast.  The island is 15 square miles, about 10 long, the east end inaccessible.  There are several salt ponds where pink flamingos are said to frequent.  Unfortunately they were at the east end on our visit.  

There are reefs for snorkeling just off shore every where. The white beaches are first class, although quite a few had an abundance of sargassum seaweed.  With the rising ocean temps it has flourished and become a bit of a problem, smothering the other vegetation and corals, rolling on shore with the tides.   

prepping dinner

We stopped by to see the Anegada Iguana Sanctuary.  It was closed today but we were able to see a few in cages through the gate.  They are highly endanger, native to the island.  Feral cats make a quick meal of the newly hatched ones, the cause of their decline.  The island gets help from several U.S. universities to capture pregnant female and collect eggs during ‘season’, bringing them to the sanctuary and raising the babies(?)  till large enough to deter their predators.  

We found a fantastic beach at Loblolly Bay, coupled with Big Bamboo Bar and Grill, we spent the afternoon quite pleasantly.  Jim snorkeled but reported the corals are quite dead, a few fish still hanging on though.  

LOTS of lobsters

What could make this day any better?… finding out our newest grand child has just arrived!  Natalie Rose joined her family Nov 14, just after 1 am … we will be meeting her on our return to the states very soon!

endangered Anegada Iguana

Nearly every restaurant here features the local Spiny Lobster as well as conch.   The lobsters are quite long and leggy but have no claws.  The meat is found in the body, uninterrupted through to its tail.   This island area is said to provide all the ‘islands’ with this delicious treat, if you like that sort of thing… Conch shells line the paths of nearly every restaurant as well.  Thousands of them.  

yummm

Bob selecting beverages 

  We sampled the lobster at Anegada Reef Hotel.  Pre order by 4pm, 5 at the latest (island time)… The previous day I had watched ‘the lobster man’ clean several lobsters.  Using a machete, he speared it to kill it, then with quick action he chopped the long spiny limbs off, feather out the gills, chop chop, and then the spindly part of the antennas.  Very skillfully it was then hacked in half, cleaned and set aside.  To prep for eating, the shell part is surrounded in heavyaluminum foil, the meaty area open and face up.  At the appointed time, it is doused in butter and garlic, placed on a flaming grill of wood.  Lid down, it is left for about 25 minutes.  It was served with more butter (of course) and lemon.  A side salad, sautéed vegetables and rice with beans. The lobster was incredibly meaty, firm and delicate with each bite.  The scent of the grill just barely detected on the palate.   It was much easier to get to the meat then the East Coast lobsters.  The only ‘work’ was getting the meat out of the antenna section.  A ‘nut’ cracker was employed, a few cracks, pull the shell away and more tasty tidbits.  We ate open air on the beach, tiki torches and candles our source of light.  I nearly finished my half order, the guys managed to eat their entire 2 halves of lobster.  Both claimed they had never before eaten their fill of lobster.  I, not being a seafood fan, am slowing coming around to the fact that fresh seafood, prepared properly is pretty darn good.

the island is 28 feet high... evacuate to ???

Cow Wreck Beach

Salt ponds ... no flamingos 

main street traffic

transaction complete!

Nov 15 - 16

Norman Island

We decided to head for the notorious Norman Island next.  We dropped the mooring ball and headed out, making sure to follow the channel  markers.  The reef behind us, the sails up, a nice stiff breeze to accompany us.      “Inishnee, Inishnee, Inishnee… this is Anegada Reef Hotel, over”  ???? (vhf call)  Yeees?, this is Inishnee…. “good morning sir.  we have your credit card here…”  (Oh bleep!,) … thank you, it will take us a bit to get back to the harbor…. “oh, no problem sir, thank you for dining with us last night…”

Willy T's 

So, the sails came down, and we headed back.   I guess that one last night cap may have hindered our good sense last night.  We had just made the first of the returned trip channel markers when a super kind gentleman in his open fishing boat approached… with our card!  What service…The two boats bucked along side each other in the waves but the transfer was successful.  Very grateful our new friend received a nice tip for his trouble.  

Henry, bar tender at Willy T's

Now, back to the plan…  We had a nice spirited ride for most of the trip.  One quick squall, thank you Jim for staying on deck… 

my happy dance ????

Then the mooring field of The Bight, Norman Island.  The island isn't actually notorious,  but Willie T’s is.  It is quite famous in these parts and world wide, for being a party haven for those that want to cut loose.  Having been duly warned about the sorted shenanigans that go on there from time to time… we ventured forth.  Willie T’s is an old, OLD schooner, well past it’s prime, at anchor, serving up adult beverages and more.  The main deck is open air with a bar near the aft and a galley in the bow.  There is a deck built above the aft section as well.  Rust is very, VERY evident everywhere.  I’m pretty sure the heath and safety codes are substantially more lax here than the states…I did see 4 life vests however.  Our visit saw no more than a number of intoxicated individuals, like most any bar as the evening wears on.  

The bar slide show provide evidence of more explicit activities from past partiers.  A picture is worth a thousands words… there was plenty being said in each.  The tamest images showing topless women jumping into the water… A free tee shirt their prize.  And some really risqué pics.  Naked bodies galore sporting: whip cream, tattoos, piercings…  We opted to pay for our purchases instead of ‘winning’ them.

Observation: most of the boats we have seen here in the BVI’s are catamarans from charter companies and they are big… very few monohulls…  

Nov 16  back to the US…

We decided to move on to the U.S. Virgin Islands today.  Bob has a flight home Friday so we will be working our way toward the island of St. Thomas.  We needed to check out of the BVI’s first however so we choose Soper’s Hole, Tortola.  Papers in hand, we went to customs and waited our turn.  Short version…

Agent: why do you have the pink paper ? !

Jim: I was given this when checking in at Jost Van Dyke

Agent: when was this?

Jim: one week ago today

Agent: let me see …. You did NOT go to immigration !

Jim: I paid the fees and got the paper work signed…

Agent:  You did not go to Immigration…. 

mumble, mumble, mumble… papers shuffled  

Agent: sir, this is a felony, one year in prison and a $1,000 dollar fine …each

   * my attention is peeked!

Jim: I apologize… I thought I had completed the necessary tasks.

Agent: Sir, we will over look it this time, but next time ? …

   *So, it seems we had kind of been in the country illegally.

Agent: go next door, see immigration, bring me back the paperwork… 

O K…

Immigration: stamp, papers shuffled,  ‘please pay the fee sir, one U.S. dollar.  

*We paid cash.  Insert happy face!!! 

Back at customs, all is well.  Reprimand noted.  Lesson learned.  Fees paid.  Passports stamped.. 

FYI: it just so happens that the official from the original checkin at Jost Van Dyke was sitting at the deck while all this transpired… His signature on some of the papers… Jim showed great restraint in not pointing this out…

another squall

On to the U.S. Virgin Islands…

A quick hop to the next island, St. John: Cruz Bay to check in to the U.S.  7 miles.  We tied to the customs dock and proceed to the entrance.  All on board must be present.  Jim filled out the necessary paperwork while Bob and I were ‘checked’ by security… then sent on our way.  Jim followed shortly after, pretty sure we obtained the correct papers, stamps etc… 

Next stop, a mooring ball provided (for a fee) by the U.S. National Park Service.  A beautiful bay.  A resort on shore.  St. Thomas on the horizon, twinkling away.  A quick couple of rain squalls.  Dinner.  Quiet time.  

From St. John’s we made the quick passage to St. Thomas.  Objectives: Bob leaves from here in a couple of days and we need to research options for leaving Inishnee for 3 weeks while we are off island visiting family, etc… We had hoped to reserve a spot at Compass Point Marina but they were full up and don’t know if / when their current slip holders will be leaving… We tried several other marinas with no luck.  Looking around it was evident that most of the anchored boats were in much disrepair although they were home to a number of individuals.  Having anchored in the unprotected bay: security as well and wind break; we gave up.  Plan B… Head to Charlotte Amalie the next bay / town over.  

We anchored in the sheltered harbor, and went ashore.  Charlotte Amalie is a much bigger town.  Right away we noticed numerous live aboard’s, monohulls.  Less derelict than the last harbor at least.   One of the live aboard’s, Krissy, gave us information about the area.  Although crime isn't rampant, take some precautions.  Dig out the dinghy cable and lock.  We choose The Shipwreck for dinner and drinks and INTERNET !!!  As we were about the leave we were introduced to Bud and Boner… and his owner… Quite a pair.  

Bud has hopes to give Boner a Facebook identity wants it to go viral… Like Grumpy Cat and Chris P. Bacon… ‘They’ were quite entertaining for the first 10 minutes… then not so much.  We had to pry ourselves away from the pair… 

Willy T's ....

Bob headed off to the other side of the island today, Wednesday, splurging on a hotel with a ‘proper’ shower and head for his last couple days of vacation.  He leaves for home and his family Friday morning.  We are so grateful for his help and company the last four weeks.  Good friends are indispensable.  

Next up for us, the slip search continues … We made a lot of inquiries but nothing solid yet for either a boat sitter or a slip that won’t break the bank.  

Following one of our leads for a marina, we took the dinghy to Crown Harbor Marina to check on availability.  A 20 minute ride, spotting several sea turtles on the way.  As we made our way to the dinghy dock we spotted our friends “Splash”… They had just arrived the day before.  Jim and Cindy along with crew Ted and John left the day before we did from Oriental, NC with plans to meet in Jost Van Dyke… They experienced some very heavy seas and their weather guy suggested they divert to the Dominican Republic, which they did.  They rested up, took care of some personal business and set out again, making a few stops along the way at the Spanish Virgin Islands.  It was terrific to catch up with them and share stories.  We hope to make a few new ones with them over the next few months as we bop along these lovely diverse islands.  

Atlantic Passage

Day 1

Flippin’ Fantastic!  except the part where I smashed my finger in the fridge door.  

Shrimp Boat hauling in the catch

We cast off lines at 9:18am from Beaufort NC. and made the 9:30 bridge opening then the great expanse of the Atlantic.  Dolphins gave us a pass by as we headed out the channel.  Scores of fishermen in boats and some wading, lined the banks.  Just outside the channel a half dozen shrimp boats were trolling, the ones hauling in the nets were swarmed by gulls and pelicans; hundreds!  

It took several hours to round Cape Lookout Shoal; the breakers easily seen warning of impending doom if we venture too close.  

Having cleared the point we headed east per 'Jimmy Cornell’s' advice; he has documented the weather and current pattens worldwide providing cruisers with reliable predictions.  The Gulf Stream ahead 40 miles.  Sunny and pleasant, 66 degrees.   The seas were flat enough for me to cook lunch with ’real food’ putting off the instant soup for another day.  Jim informed me that he had just discovered a stole away… A crab in the cockpit scuppers about as big as your pinky finger nail.  It’s in for a surprise…

Fresh Tuna

We all tried to catch a nap but had little luck.  Bob decide to give it another go when FISH ON was called.  Jim grabbed the rod and started reeling it in.  Bob back on deck took over.  We then dumped some air from the sails to slow our speed:  7 knots with 20 knots winds, gusting to 25.  Jim quickly got the boat to ‘heave to’; a maneuver to stall the boats speed and hold it’s course over ground.  The boat turned in the process, the fish now off the front of the boat.  Bob still reeling in the catch.  The guys worked the rod forward and over the front stay.  After a good 20 minutes they landed a 10+  pound tuna with the aid of a gaff hook.  The chicken for dinner is going in the freezer since we will be having ‘chicken of the sea’ tonight.  The tuna filleted, we’ll have enough for 2 big meals.  We entered the Gulf Stream just before dark, dinning on fresh seared tuna and butter rice.  Pretty fabulous so far! 

Daylight is about 12 hours long.  5:30am - 6 pm.  My watch, 6 - 10pm was very pleasant.   A couple of cargo ships, 1 cruise ship, 2 satellites and a shooting star (wish made).  Jim took over at 10 pm, navigating through the heart of the Stream.  The winds still pushing us along at over 7 knots.  Waves 4 -6 feet, swells up to 10.  The boat enjoyed it, the crew not so much.  Imagine being in a rocking chair.  Now put it on a roller coaster.  Hang on!  More than once we were  tossed about.  The deck awash most of the night.  Bob’s watch brought weakening winds and seas flattening out having left the ‘stream’ behind.  I came back on deck at 6am.  Seas pretty flat. 

Day 2

We were all pretty whipped today.  Two nights of little sleep, adjusting to life offshore.

We have loosely assigned day watches someone is always up during the daylight hours so it’s whoever is in the cockpit takes a look around every little bit.  Adjust the sails (reality, Jim does most of the sail adjusting, Bob and I are like “ah, we’re moving…”).   There is little to watch for so far off shore.  We see the ships, the few that are this far out, on AIS.  We have not seen any other traffic, although we know there are several other sailboats traveling south, too far from us to see however.  At night a few planes overhead.  

I am happy to report we have not seen an abundance of garbage.  One ‘something’ every hour or so is still too much though.  Mostly things we can’t identify without close inspection.  A rectangular green box of some sort, a few balloons.  A pine log.  We’ve seen a few birds; less as we continue east and south.  

We had round two of the tuna tonight for dinner along with coconut curry pasta.  It’s easier to get around on the boat now that the gulf stream is behind us, the waves all but gone.  

I can’t believe or explain how incredible it is out here.  There is nothing to see but water everywhere.  It is so gorgeous.  The most perfect day sailing on Lake Michigan, times 10.  

Day 3

We all had a better nights sleep.  The seas have been pretty flat with comfortable swells.  We started the motor around 3:30 am.  Boat speed down to just above 2 knots.  We have to monitor our fuel so we don't run out.  Most sailboats can not carry enough fuel to make a long passage so conservation to important.  

The weather was perfect.   Summer perfect.  Sunny.  Warm.  Gentle breeze.  Soothing boat action; up, down, to and fro.  The boat creaks a bit now and then adding to the mystique of life aboard.  

Bob Chillin'

The guys have given me the best watch times. (?) I am on from around sunset and beyond as well as sunrise, 6 - 10 am/pm.  Both of which are stunning.  The clouds on the horizon scattering the light into multiple shades of pinks, blues, yellows, oranges…. Sunbeams and moon dogs radiate out respectively.    

The color of the water changes throughout the day.  Sometimes steely grey, like an aluminum foil cloth.  Sometimes indigo blue, deep and serene.  Even the color of Dawn Dish Soap.  Other times glassy and reflective.  Todays sights included errant trash, a flip flop (too small), a sea going bird ??, and a small sparrow!  It managed to land twice on the boat but wouldn't stay put.  Sad.  We are about 300 miles off shore.  I can’t image it can stay aloft much longer out here.  I saw one flying fish too.  Bob, the Whale Whisperer, keeps calling for whales but they must be out of range.  

The winds increased enough by noon to use the sails again, making 5 1/2 knots.  We again took turns napping.  Bob took over galley duty tonight  and made sloppy joe’s and rice pilaf.  All in all the day passed very nicely.  

Day 4

We have been enjoying the relatively warm nights, needing just a light jacket, maybe a hat (me). We sailed most of last night but had to fire up the engine around 2:30, again the winds dwindled down to 2 knots of boat speed.  Jim was relieved by Bob for watch.  I went up early for my watch and hauled out the jib, the winds back up to 10 knots of wind, a nice speed to carry us along.  It was the first time I manned the sails by myself, no coaching.  It felt really good to make the decisions and have the boat respond as I’d hoped.   As the day worn on the winds and seas built and we were again walking on the walls.  One hand for the boat, one for yourself: hold on tight …

A little bit about night time watches.  When I start my watch the sun is just setting.  By 7pm, the remnants of the sun have disappeared and the stars are consuming the night sky. The milky way is clearly visible.  The stars twinkle like the poem.  The moon doesn’t rise till after 9:30, increasing later each night, so I have several hours of star gazing without light pollution. The sea goes on and on.  Then the little creatures start to appear.  Bioluminescence.  Dozens of them flashing next to the boat, disturbed by the wake.  They dance on the waves.  In the blink of an eye they are gone.   They keep me company.  It’s not scary in the least being so far off shore.  It’s breathtaking.  It’s exhilarating.  It’s  empowering.  The wind has been our friend, ushering us along the line we need to follow to find the trade winds that will carry us south to our destination.  

Are we there yet ???

I find it hard to stay below when off watch.  I feel like a kid that will miss something if I look away.   This morning looking aft, I saw several flying fish.  Jim was quick enough up the companionway to see them too.  The sea holds so many new things for us to experience.  

Chris Parker gave a us a decent forecast.  We will continue generally east till we get to about 65 degree longitude, then turn south and with a bit of luck, the trade winds will find us and help us to scoot along.  

Day 5

The night hours were divided between sailing and motoring sailing.  The winds shifting, building, diminishing throughout the evening and night.  My shift saw 2 shooting stars in quick succession and one freighter, the lights barely visible behind us.  

We are making steady progress toward our goal.  Chris updated us this morning as far as weather.  When we hit the trade winds (tomorrow?) , they will be strong; 20 -25 knots with seas on the beam (side).  We’ll need to make sure we have things secured.  The boat will likely fishtail some as it carries us swiftly south.  

The morning brought fairly flat seas with undulating swells.  The mainsail has been up and working the entire trip.  The head sail goes in and out as the winds wane or shift.  We are keeping a log recording stats about every 3 hours and Jim has been plotting our course daily.  We have gone over 550 miles since departing Beaufort and averaging 145 noon to noon.Mostly by the power of the wind…

The winds dwindled as the morning wore on and we had to start the engine to continue making  progress.  We are nearing Bermuda and have been picking up one side of VHF conversations pertaining to those making it their destination, no visuals on any pleasure craft.   It occurs to us we are IN the Bermuda Triangle.   hmmmm     Enough said. 

One of several flying fish found on deck 

The temps nearing 80 have allowed us to wear swim suits daytimes, night times mid 70’s.  I spent some time sunning on the bow in the afternoon; upon my retreat found another stowaway… a flying fish.  It had been too long on deck, it did not survive. We returned it to the sea.  

We finally had to concede and drop the mainsail by mid afternoon.  It was starting to bang around.  

With the time change, the sun sets just after 4:30 pm.  By 5 it’s already dark.  We have been eating dinner below together where we can see our plates.  Gumbo tonight.  

Day 6 

In general, sailing with a decent breeze is pretty noisy.  The wind whistles through the rigging, the metal on our dinghy hoist providing a single musical note like air passing over a pop bottle.  Waves slapping against the hull.  The eddies behind the boat swirling and providing their own symphony.  Then there is the boat itself.  It creaks and groans, like an old wooden rocking chair, the seas making the hull flex from the constant compression.  Its sound not unpleasant, just surprising in volume.  

Refueling while underway

We had to motor all night, the winds not getting over 3 knots.  The same noises are present but engulfed by the constant drone of the ever faithful engine.  

Once again, I was awed by the turning of the dark hours to daylight.  The sun returning as scheduled.  While making my morning look see, another flying fish was found.  This time a baby.  It was returned to the sea like it’s unfortunate relative the day before.  

Having motored for over 24 hours, it was time to refuel while we had relatively good conditions.  Chris reports we will soon be in the Trade Winds, and we better be ready for the shift.  Jim brought the jerry jugs aft from the side deck storage and he and Bob skillfully made the exchange.  A 5 degree heal and bouncing seas with nary a drop spilled. 

Mahimahi

We could feel the winds freshening through the morning, approaching 10 knots.  We are very close to the longitude of the Trades.  Having eaten the remainder of the fresh fish, the line was tossed out again.  It took several hours but the call went out… FISH ON !  This time a mahimahi, also called dolphin or dorado in some areas.  A very nice eating white flesh fish.  We cut the engine, dumped the wind from the sails and Jim reeled it in.  A gorgeous fish!   Blunt head, it’s body fantastic bright greens and yellows.  Bob grabbed the line and as it was being brought aboard it gave a quick but effective burst of energy and broke free of the hook.  I can’t say I was sorry.  The thought of such a lovely creature coming to it’s end by means of our knife… We do have lots of packaged food to eat, so, que sera’ sera’… 

The winds kept building, 10, 12, 13…. 15 knots.  No need for the engine.  Chris’ weather report says stay this course another day.  There is a weather system building south of the BVI’s.  To avoid it we should continue east another day, then turn south and west to stay out of harms way if it should develop into a storm.  So, east we go.

We saw a couple freighters today, one off the bow about 1/2 mile.  A few flying fish ‘flying’.  They look like little white torpedoes propelling themselves 50 feet of more across the surface.  Sometimes alone, sometimes a small school.  Another bird today, this time a swallow.  It circled us a few times, zipped through the cockpit and was off.   A couple hours latter, returned then we saw no more of it.  Darwin's finches traveled great distances over the seas to colonize the Galapagos… Maybe just maybe it will find terra firma. 

Night watches, generally spent alone, provide time to contemplate things.  I can work through ideas, think about loved ones, conjure up stories.  Reflect on life.  Sometimes my mind runs amuck.  Last night (night 6) I found myself in the throws of… what if someone falls overboard.  what if a storm hits.  what if a sail blows out, what if …. ?  My mind racing, alone, in the dark.  I can reason all these things out.  Think about it logically.  But my imagination sometimes bombards my good sense and I feel defeated.  But as times passes through the long dark hours, so do the demons I have created.  

A bit bumpy out there ...

By the time my shift ends, we have rolled in the jib a bit.  Mid Jim’s shift, we reefed the main.  The seas have us in a washboard, we are hobby horsing about.  Each step takes thought and effort.  You raise your foot and the floor comes up to meet it.  You move to the left and the wall introduces itself most abruptly.  An elevator ride gone mad.  

The temps have been in the 80’s even at night  which was a mixed blessing.  Outside a ‘delightful breeze’, down below, stifling.  We had closed all vents before heading out where water might penetrate which also suppressed the air flow.  (We were pretty cruise’y  (stinky) by day 10.)

Day 7  

One entire week at sea.  We got little sleep last night.  The seas were heaving and tossing us all over.  The winds  varying from 12 - 17 knots.  The waves hitting us broadside.  I have been sleeping in the V-berth, the pointy end.  The most boisterous part of the ship.  I can generally sleep anywhere.  Last night not so much.  Several times I was sent airborne, returning to a new spot on the bunk.  Generally farther aft since the boat is making forward progress.  I have bruises on bruises.  Other than some discomfort, we are doing fine.  And … ! we are NOT shoveling snow… 

double rainbow

We discovered yesterday that the AIS was not working AGAIN!!!!  We have had several problems with transmitting / receiving since it was installed a couple years ago. This time it was our error.  One of the buttons on the iPad control center had inadvertently been switched to silent mode, not transmitting.  Once discovered it was easily rectified.  Now, today, Jim discovered our VHF antenna wire at the TOP of the mast has come undone. It also transmits / receives the AIS signal.  Somehow the loose fitting was missed in the rigging inspection.  We have a hand held VHF radio for backup.   It’s range is basically line of sight, not ideal but it will get the job done when we reach port and need to call the harbor master.  The only solution is to go up the mast and screw it back together.  Not a viable option today.  The SSB antennae is separate from the VHF one so we will still will get weather reports and can communicate as needed via SSB.  

on e of several squalls 

Noonish.  We have entered the Trade Winds (finally) and have turned south / south west.  Chris, out weather guru, said it would be a ‘sporty’ ride.  My usual experience with sports involves a remote control and an adult beverage.  I’m thinking that’s not what he meant.  There was a tropical wave, an unusual weather pattern, that was causing a disturbance coming up from the tropics.  It influenced the weather for hundreds of miles.  We were on the eastern side so we were to expect squalls and some adverse conditions.  Not dangerous though.  

The winds started shifting and building as we push south. (written about noon)… 

 By day 6 the temps were in the 80’s even at night  which was a mixed blessing.  Outside a ‘delighmight penetrate which also suppressed the air flow.  We were pretty cruise’y  (stinky) by day 10.

Day 7 (continued) - 10

The last few days are a blur.  Here’s a synopsis.  

tossing about ...

The Atlantic Arcade games began the afternoon of day 7.   It played pinball with us bouncing us all over; above and below decks.  The winds and seas had increased dramatically.  I found myself wishing they would go back down to 24 knots…having increased to 30 knots +/-. Gusts nearing 40.  We recorded 37.2 top gust.  The seas were steady 15 feet,  20 at times.  It was impressive.  We flew under our storm sail (very small) and a triple reefed main doing 7 knots for nearly 3 days.  Life vests and harnesses part of our new attire.  

The bow plunged fairly constantly below the waves and seas broke over the cockpit sides every now and again, dumping gallons, the floor boards afloat and 6 inches of water sloshing about.  The watch-man getting a thorough rinsing in the process.  The scuppers and drains sometimes plugging with seaweed (sargasso).  

Land ho !

The most simple tasks had become a huge drain on our stamina.  Every movement needed to be secured with a deathtrap on something secure.  Sitting.  Moving of any sort.  Sleeping.  Eating.  Going to the head… nearly impossible.  A boat has 6 motions in the water, accentuated while underway: moving up and down, side to side, and to and fro.    We ran through squalls nights 7 and 8 with lightening on the horizon to keep things interesting.   

We changed watches about every 2 hours and attempted to rest during the worst of it.  The boat stayed fairly dry below, a few known leaks only increasing slightly.  The boat performed fantastic.  With 2 exceptions, we never touched the wheel to steer the entire passage, the auto pilot performed flawlessly.  We choose to hand steer while reeling in the tuna and again to reef the mainsail.  

Celebrating at  Foxy's 

Jim, who LOVES to sail had even had enough.  He said we’d been through a washing machine, all cycles.  The soak cycle lasted good long time, 7 days +, then the wash: heavy duty, a rinse, spin, rinse again (and again… ) then we where rung out to dry on the final day.  

Jost Van Dyke, BVI’s.

We did it!  We made port 9 days, 21 hours after setting out.  Noon to noon distances 145 +/- with one heavy weather day of only 114 miles.  

Total : over 1500 nautical miles

We feel pretty good about our passage all and all, having left port under several sailing taboos: NEVER leave on a Friday for a voyage: we did.  

It was also Devils Night (before Halloween), and  

we went through the Bermuda Triangle !!!!  

We did NOT bring any bananas aboard at least. 

We did have a few casualties along the way;  overboard: a bandana, a coffee cup, a chunk of  styrofoam and a bolt from a bimini support.  

Also, one cabin light that didn't like the salt water needs some attention along with the previously mentioned antenna wire.  We consider ourselves fortunate.

Foxy's : 'calling cards' from other visitors 

Our new reality: Sandy beaches.  Tropical breezes.  Turquoise water.  Painkillers !

I think it’s a good tradeoff from the snow.