Monday, May 30, 2016

Tobago Cay, Union Island, Carriacou

May 2 - 6
Tobago Cays
over looking Horseshoe Reef
The Tobago Cays: a marine park located east of Mayreau a mile or so.  A few small uninhabited  tiny  islands and Horseshoe Reef.  Boats can anchor safely on the west side of Horseshoe Reef or take a mooring ball.  The curved reef, about a half mile long helps to diminish the swells and waves from the open atlantic, water depths decreasing rapidly up to the reef and it’s shallows.  The area is a sanctuary for sea turtles, snorkelers enjoying close encounters.   
With no shortage of good spots, we spent several relaxing days at anchor.   The harbor big enough to accommodate many dozens of boats during high season, now less than 12 boats staying nightly, although day charters come and go every few hours.  The boat vendors dismayed that the season is winding down, the cruisers heading out of the hurricane belt.  The snorkeling was good and if you ventured out farther into the reef the fish grew in size proportionally.    The current and surge a small deterrent, our recent shark catch another… 
Our supplies were getting low, Mayreau did not having a fresh market to stock up so we were down to can goods and a bit of fresh fish brought by the vendors. Time to move on…  


Happy Island
May 6 - 11
Union Island 
Happy Island   
The passage was a bit wet, the wind kicking up a nasty chop, but is was short.  3 miles.  We anchored behind the outer reef.   The town Clifton off our stern, Happy Island off our bow.  Happy Island was hand build by Janti on the reef, initially out of conch shells, later reinforced with cement.  Less than an acre, Janti (aka King) resides there and runs a beach bar complete with a few palm trees and speakers (half the size of the island).  His electrical needs supplied from solar panels and 2 wind generators stored in 18 batteries.   While enjoying a cool beverage as the sun dropped behind the piton of Union Island, we were treated to a few wind surfers getting a few more passes in before nightfall, jumping, spinning and catching some air as they passed by.   One of the surfers coming within a few feet of the cement shore of Happy Island.  Someone in the know, held out a beer for the surfer, who slipped by and snatched it from his hand…. a few passes later, he returned the empty bottle to the same out stretched hand… pretty cool show. 

Ashore we headed to customs and immigration, having overstayed our month clearance, we needed an extension, which was gladly given.  We lunched on roti’s: chicken and conch.  Another day pizza.  We made purchases at the well stocked fresh market and found frozen meat to replenish the stores.   The island is small, the people kind.  A ferry comes regularly from the ‘mainland’ (St. Vincent) with supplies and passengers.  There is an airport, tourists coming and going daily, en-route to charter boats or Palm Island were there is a resort.  
catching some air and a beer...




Jim needed his hair cut badly so we got the clippers out, tossing the cuttings into the sea.  One of the boat vendors, Skipper, spotted the activity and asked about the possibility of purchasing a set of clippers from us…  So many things here (all the islands) are out of the financial means of the locals… add VAT tax and customs fees … impossible to afford.  I had packed a new set of clippers before leaving the states, assuming the old ones would ‘give it up’ at some point… So, we struck a deal with Skipper… trade us a fish for the clippers… however they need 120 current … Skipper was thrilled and set off to find us a fish… within an hour he had returned with 2 small Snappers and the exchange was made.  We could have just given him the clippers, our cruising kitty still has a good cushion, but he wasn't asking for charity….


downtown Union Island






fresh produce stands


















run aground in the mangroves 








Carriacou, Grenada: one of the three islands of belonging to Grenada
May 11 - 19
no green flash but pretty lovely anyway
Carriacou in Carib means Island surrounded by reefs… and it is. 
We anchored in Tyrrel Bay in 15 feet of water, the bottom nearly all sand, good holding.  A large harbor able to accommodate a couple hundred boats, just make sure you read the charts; Bareboat Alley has claimed a lot of charter boats over the years.  



















The island is about 4 miles wide and 5 miles long.   Fishing, farming and some tourism make up the lifestyle here.  In Windward (town and place) they still make wooden boats according to the old ways.  After settling in, we took a cab to Hillsborough, the largest city on the island in hopes of getting info about the Regatta taking place on Petite Martinique this weekend.  We had a walk around, collected some brochures about Grenada, Carriacou and Petite Martinique.  Our trip back to Tyrrel Bay was aboard Blessings’ bus, a few detours along the way… The old saying getting there is half the fun… with Blessings, it was most certainly true.  Blessings is quite a hustler.  Before leaving Hillsborough, we made 2 trips around the main drag to pick up stuff…

Blessings pulled over and dashed into a snacket for a to-go package, then circled the block again… another package was dashed to the car from a different vendor… Back on the road to Tyrrel, we stopped to pick up a propane bottle and dropped it off a bit down the road along with a bucket of veggies then… continuing on… a shout out to a passing truck, both of us coming to a halt, Blessings jumps out and grabs a HUGE fresh fish from the cooler in the truck bed… the woman sitting behind the drivers seat pulls out a plastic pan.  Blessings pops the fish into the pan and jumps back into the bus… we are off again.  Fish smells wafting through the air.   Like most other busses, Blessing’s horn, LaDeeDeeDah, LaDeeDeeDah, communicates to those up ahead of his presents.   We dodge goats and a few sheep, the most we have seen on any of the Caribbean islands.  We pick up and drop customers as we make our way back down to Tyrrel Bay.  LaDeeDeeDah, LaDeeDeeDah joyously touting our location.    
Tyrrel Bay has a fantastic pizza / pasta restaurant The Lazy Turtle were we met friends several times for dinner and music.   We spent happy hours going between Inishnee and s/v Tumbayo: Pascal and FrauFrau, live aboards from France.  Pascal’s Petite Punch (french rum punch) is now a standard evening beverage aboard… rum being nearly all either of us have on board.  
We hired Blessings to take us all to Windward to catch a ferry to Petite Martinique for Sundays Regatta festivities.  Windward is on the north end of Carriacou and a short shallow ride from Petite Martinique.
Petite Martinique, Grenada
Petit Martinique 
The ferry was an ‘old’ cabin cruiser from the states, possibly a left over from the U.S. invasion.  The one and only town of any kind on Petite Martinique was asleep… Sundays nearly everything is closed on all the Islands and this is a holiday weekend… Whitsunday.  
















The beach was a flurry of activity however.  Lots of double-enders: handmade wooden sailboats from several of the surrounding islands, many of which we recognized including Eclipse from Bequia.  We big race took the competitors north to Petite St. Vincent and through the reefs, no casualties this time.  They then returned to the beach area were they came about and did leg two of the race heading south toward Carriacou then back again to the beach.  




The sun was relentless and there was almost no shade or anywhere to sit except on the sand.  With the help of a few Stags, the local beer, we were able to endure the blistering heat.  The shore festivities did not start till well after dark, the highlight at 3 am where participants celebrated ‘carnival style’ by donning masks and painting bodies and faces… We unfortunately had to head back early afternoon as our clocks would hold out that long and the busses quit running by dark for the holiday including Monday…  LaDeeDeeDah, LaDeeDeeDah met us at the ferry dock and returned us home.  













This last month we endured 5, FIVE! consecutive days without any sunshine …  Clouds a constant on the horizon, looming over us.  Rain spitting at us on and off.. it was brutal.  But, winter has has departed and like ‘up north’ we are reveling in the return of summer!  The winds have been relentless the last 2 weeks. The wind generator shorting itself off in gusts over 25… For the first time in months our batteries are full to overflowing.  All devices are charged and still the wind keeps blowing, the sun bathing the solar panels with more than they can consume.  

next up.... Grenada ! the spice island








Tuesday, May 10, 2016

Mayreau: the Grenadines

April 24 - May 2
Nice Catch !

The Grenadines
Mayreau, Salt Whistle Bay
an Eclipse, several full moons, 4 and 20 Black birds (no pie)… 

The passage from Bequia to Mayreau brought good wind for sailing, making a few amps for the energy bank.  We reefed the main and kept the jib short for a while till the winds tapered off enough to unfurl it. Within short order Jim spotted a huge turtle, shell estimated to be all of 4 feet across.  It was slow to dive so we got a good look at it, nearly as many critters and plants on its back as Inishnee has on its hull.  Another, spotted on the starboard side just under the surface swimming frantically away from the boat.   We crossed into deeper water (1,000+ feet) and it was time to toss the rubber squid overboard to see it dinner could be found. The sails set, the crew comfortable, Jim headed to the bow sit and let the waves cool his feet.  Dolphins!  2 dolphins quickly crossed the bow and headed west.  

leave nothing but footprints.... 
Boobies, Frigates and Flying Fish kept us company as usual.  Zing!  Fish on!  Jim set the hook and we rolled in the head sail to cut our speed from over 6 knots to 1.5, the main still working.  The catch stayed deep, a good sign, tuna dive deep, barracuda tend to stay near the surface.  It took over 20 minutes to reel it in. Jim worked up a sweat.  With it finally next to the boat we had a huge surprise… a shark.  Around 4 foot.  Beautiful copper color and lots of teeth… Not wanting gaff it, ensuring its death, I went for the rum.  Rum quiets the fish temporarily so they can be handled with little danger to crew or catch.   Not waiting for the rum, Jim thought the shark was played out so he wrapped the line around his gloved hand to get a better grip to bring it aboard, we have no net.  Big, BIG mistake. The shark was most defiantly NOT played out and with a burst of desperate energy it writhed and twisted and the line sliced through the gloves, Breaking free, the shark took the bait, hook and leader… Jim’s fingers still intact!  If he hadn't been wearing gloves he would most likely have lost a few fingers…  Lesson learned.  


Mayreau just ahead, we furled that sails and motored into the bay, staying to the center to avoid the coral reefs either side.  Mayreau is a very small, quiet island, a few miles round, rimmed with sandy beaches and coral reefs.  Very picturesque.  The larger dominant hilly island is joined to a much smaller hill by an isthmus.  The windward side of the isthmus a haven for kite surfers, the leeward side protected and serene, a cruisers haven.  The waters around the island are part of the Tobago Cay Marine Park, the Tobago Keys just off the windward Atlantic side. 

A few unsuccessful attempts at anchoring in the heavy grass bottom, we took a mooring ball.  We backed down on the ball at 1500 rpms making sure the mooring line would hold.  It did.  Next, Jim dove to inspect the condition of the mooring tackle and anchor setting.  The shackles, lines and concrete were in good shape.  The mooring attendant, Forty (his nick name), later told us the moorings are government installed and inspected regularly, the concrete anchors sunk in the sand by means of air pressure to excavate an area to accommodate the enormous concrete blocks.   
Many cruisers are indignant and put off by harbors using mooring balls.  We LOVE them.  They protect the very fragile ecosystems.  *Soon after arriving, another boat attempting to anchor for a second time, discovered a huge piece of coral lodged in the tines.   We have seen sooo many charters boats drop the hook and call it good, later to find their boat adrift, endangering it and others in its path. We have found most moorings safe and well  maintained.   They are usually very reasonable at 40 - 60 EC’s… 15 - 20 dollars a night.  Priceless if you want to sleep easy.  This also supports the local economy which is largely based on tourism, a short 6 month season… 

As usual the boat vendors were willing to provide services for yachties bringing produce or bread or disposal of trash.  Ashore, there is very little to offer in this bay.  The town is up and over the hill near Saline Bay.  Here, a few shacks selling beverages or a shoreside meal; fish, conch or lobster with provisions… the local term for sides of rice with beans and salad of some sort, music of course included.  A group of ladies hang their tee shirts and sarongs hoping for a sale… Unlike the northern Leeward island group, the vendors in the Windwards are non aggressive.  

We hiked to the “village” *I could find nowhere in the guide book referencing it by name.  Preached atop the highest hill is the Catholic church.   Built in the early 1900’s, overlooking the Tobago Cays.  It’s courtyard has a replica of a “wattle and daub’ house, a slave house.   The slaves and their descendants were not allowed to own / build any permanent structures which continued until the 1970’s;  they lived in wattle and daubs… mud and stick built structures, often destroyed during storms.  Continuing down the hill, every other home has a shop to sell something, a few clothes, beverages or snacks.  The village is set on the slope of the hill leading to and from Saline Bay.  Goats and dogs mingling together blatting or barking occasionally.  
There was little need to watch out for traffic, the island has fewer than 10 autos.  One road,   more or less paved, with side streets of gravel and debris.  We also don't have to be concerned about which side they drive on since the road is one lane wide… 

Another hike took us to the top of the small hill over looking Salt Whistle bay and the isthmus.  Kite surfers taking advantage of the winds on the windward side.  Wanting a closer look, we headed to Kite Beach (I named it!).  As many as 9 at one time skating across the windblown surface.  Several of the kiters playing for the camera, showed off their skills.  Getting lots of air time and doing tricks; flipping, turning and jumping, boards hanging on by their finger tips while sailing high in the air as they made their turns. 

If you know were to look it’s possible to see the resort complex Salt Whistle Bay Club. If not, you would surely miss it although it is only steps from the beach.  Cabins nestled in the palms, the restaurant made of island stone and palm thatch roofs, each private table hidden in the same fashion.  
Our neighbors of late of been French.  The big cats coming and going, the morning exodus starting just after daybreak, a lull through the afternoon, then new arrivals barreling in to drop the hook in time for sundowners.  Although the celestial calendar says the moon is waxing…  their is no shortage of full moons.  Swimming, diving, washing, snorkeling… all within the realm of less is best in the fabric department.   
The boobies, brown of otherwise, have been scarce however.  Taking their place are the black birds.  They have developed a taste for cruiser cuisine and at any and every opportunity will board a boat and seek out a bit of leftovers.  Their calling cards are of the most unpleasant description.  They do not hesitate to dart through any open port in search of their quest.  Flashback:  our dear friend Carrie back home training her dogs to not do something …hmmm,  I remembered I had a squirt bottle below… It in hand, I climbed through the companion way and gave a squeeze to prime the nozzle… lucky shot!  I managed to strike a black bird on the rail… the bird took flight and as startled as I was as this new prospect.  The bottle is now part of our cockpit gear.  


Mayreau Regatta!
We just happened upon Mayreau during their annual regatta.  4 days of competition fishing, sailing and fun.  Forty took us around the island in his open boat taxi to Saline Bay and day one of the festivities.   A fishing contest; the biggest catch, the most (weight) catch winning prize money.  We saw thousands of fish being brought in.  The Red Hind (a type of grouper) with it’s bug eyes was a sight.  The fishermen emptied there weighed bags for counting.   Even after capture, the Red Hind appeared to have tried to eat any and all fish in the boat… each mouth gorged with another fish, size didn't matter, bringing to mind the saying… eyes too big for your belly.




















Day two, The Lion Fish Derby.  Prizes for the most, smallest and largest caught… 1st -3rd places winner for each category.  208 lion fish were captured this day by 4 different boats.  The biggest 415mm long.  Lion Fish have 18 venomous spines, the fishermen are given a briefing on the proper capture (netting), handling and treatment (hot water compress) if chooked (pricked).  The organizers of the event, Nancy and Lowell (Canadian / Mayreau residents), purchase all captured lion fish, supervise the removal of fins, and host a free lion fish bbq for the community… it’s quite good tasting.  The clipped spines are used to make jewelry by local women, which is sold through out many Caribbean islands.  To detoxify the spines, they are baked in ovens, neutralizing the venom.  Lion fish are an invasive species that have successfully taken hold through out all the caribbean islands.  The first derby on Mayreau 5 years ago brought in 7 fish… each year the catch has increased… The fish have no predators except humans and they are killing off many of the native fish.
Nancy and Kathy 
Start of race...
The evening events included the Lion Fish Cooking Competion and Miss Mayreau Pageant.  

Day 3, the regatta.  First, the youth race in small dinghies.  Shove off from shore, sail around a couple of buoys and return to shore… Next, the teens and adults.  There were 3 classes of boats.  The competing boats came from several surrounding islands.  All wooden, hand made double enders (pointy at both ends).  Todays course took them out and around the reef and south around Catholic Island (out of sight) and back.  Start from shore, 3 boats in each size / age class with staggered starts.  Eclipse, the largest boat, having come from Bequia had no competition in it’s size class.  Sand bag for boat ballast, boat fenders for flotation in the bows.  Several boats capsized as they came about at the reef buoy and had to bail a LOT of water to right the boats, one was towed home by the coast guard.  
Lunch today… pig tails!  Tasty enough but not much meat.  


Day  4. The conclusion of the events brought nearly the entire village (250 +/- people) as well as neighboring islanders.  The beach was crowded with people by noon.  Music blaring, fish, pork and chicken of the grills.  Many beer stands went up over night, selling Hairoun and Presidente’ (local beer).
Captain's duty 
Todays races had a most unusual twist.  The course took them around buoys close to shore.   The spectators could see the entire race.  The harbor had over a dozen anchored boats making the course a bit more challenging; the contestants having to weaving in and around them.  The racers shoved off from shore when their appointed departure time was called… out and around the buoys, return to shore… the captain then jumps out, runs to the announcers table and guzzles a beer or soda, depending on age, while the crew turns the boat and awaits his return…then they repeat the course… beaching the boat upon the completion of the second leg.  
Jim on Elipse coming in from the race
Jim hanging on before hauling the boat on shore 






Jim was asked by the crew of Eclipse to ‘race’ with them … They were not officially in the competition but were allowed to sail the course.  It was quite an exhilarating ride: one man the designated bailer (water constantly coming in the boat), 2 men on the trapeze lines providing counter weight, one man on the rudder steering, Alex the captain barking orders and Jim manning the jib sheet, a wrap around the winch for leverage, no cleat… Hold on tight to the line and ease it in and out as instructed… the problem was the crew were all islanders… amongst themselves they speak the island lingo… a mix of many languages that is incomprehensible for todays gib sheet handler…  he had a great time!
Working the trapeze 
I helped a bit with the arts and crafts for the children’s booth; kids could color, paint, make jewelry, dig for treasure in the sand pit.  I was asked to judge the art contest, prizes were awarded for various categories.  Again, Nancy was in the thick of things, corralling kids and dishing out hugs and ensuring they all had a memorable experience.  
Capsize ! getting towed in 


Having stayed on Mayreau for over a week, it was time to explore new territory.  We hiked to town for bread and said good by to friends … Philip, Iceland, Righteous Robert, Nancy and  Forty… 


a tough way to finish a race ...
junior races 






atop the hill over looking Saline Bay




you're welcome 



Eclipse and Jim with the capsized boat in to left

and the winner is .... 


competition from Bequia 

the walkway along Salt Whistle Bay






Righteous Robert 





getting ready  ....





Tobago Cays from atop the hill behind the church
A water cistern in the foreground