Friday, October 30, 2015

It's GO time !!!



Oct 25  sunday
new ICW bridge construction: Beaufort 
We have been in and around Oriental, North Carolina 14 days!  Our longest time in one place since we left home.  It felt good in some respects, people and places being familiar but we are also getting antsy to move on to the next adventure.  We spent the day finishing tasks.  A run to the grocery for fresh fruit and veggies: a few more passage items, then to Inland Waterway Provision Company to pick up the last of our order: BVI’s courtesy flag and fuel jugs.  Pat the owner has truly gone the extra mile to help us.  He spent hours tracking down cruising guides, paper charts and several other items we needed by special order.   Our shopping complete we headed back to the boat.  I inventoried new purchases and updated our checklist of passage items.  Jim spent hours on the computer taking care of paper work needed before we depart the states sometime next week.  NEXT WEEK ! Time is going sooooooo fast… 
We had a quiet dinner aboard then went to the marina club house to watch a Netflix movie.  They just put in a new ‘lightning fast’ modem for the big house and it is great… We watched ‘Tracks’, a true story of a young woman’s 1,700 mile walk across  the deserts of western Australia.  A very interesting movie.  
We have been making quite the habit of being up past midnight for weeks now…    It’s well after 10 pm on a Sunday night…  and we are still up… But fading fast.

Oct 26  monday   Beaufort, NC
We are off for Beaufort, North Carolina.  We will remain here while making our final preparations for the 1,500 mile passage south.  Our long time friend Bob J. will be flying in this Thursday.  He will be helping us make the passage.  
We joined the boat parade heading south along the Inner coastal.  The snow birds continuing to make their way south before the real cold weather hits.  The wind was blowing hard out of the north which was good as we were headed south.  The open water of Neuse River / Pamlico Sound was a bit churned up as we crossed it to get to Adams Creek Canal.  Th winds brought the clouds so it was pretty overcast all day.  We had barley headed down the canal when a dolphin surfaced less than 10 feet from the boat.  It repeated it’s inspection of us a few more times before heading off in search of a meal.  Soon after, several pelicans skimmed by.  Looking around the tainted waters of the sound had given way to relatively clear water… probably why we were seeing our salty friends again.  Several calls on the VHF reported logs and debris
Cindy and Kathy...  
 just up ahead… then clunk.Luckily we had hit a small log, no damage.  So we kept our eyes peeled for more ‘stuff’ as we continued on.  The current gave us a great boost adding 2 1/2 knots to our speed.  We made Beaufort in less than 3 hours, 25 miles.  We did a drive by off the marina looking for the fuel dock.  Located, we came about and found some skinny water for the keel.  A bit of throttle and we slipped off the bottom then motored up to the dock.  The tide was down and the posted were a good 12 feet high.  I tossed the line and lassoed the post first try, yes!  Jim hit reverse and we drifted unto the dock.  We topped off the fuel: boat and jerry cans.  Then found S/v Splash and crew  to help us into our assigned slip.  Jim and Cindy have been here a week, prepping for the passage ahead of us.  The wind was still snorting at 20+ knots and we vey thankful for their help in maneuvering.  The slips have 2 x 2 foot concrete posts as well as wood pilings.  Low tide = long high toss of the lines… low tide, easy to range the posts.  There is about a four foot tide here.  Anything left in the water, posts, lines, fenders have lots of ‘barnacles’ on them… 
Jim, Kathy, Jim and Cindy...We'll see you in the BVI's 
The tides are significant here as are the currents, so we needed a few extra lines positioned to keep from getting jostled around in the slip.  The finger piers here were designed by a ‘distance challenged’ individual, they are only 15 feet long at best.  If you don't stern in (we don’t) then you have to disembark from near the bow of your boat, climbing over lifelines.  We ( I ) needed a step ladder to get off the boat, which the marina provided.  We tidied the boat then headed to check out the facilities.  Very nice accommodations, clean showers, cheap laundry and a ships store / restaurant.  We stopped by to quick chat with Jim and Cindy… Cindy was elbow deep in meal prep for off shore.  Many cruisers precook meals and freeze / store them to heat and eat while under way.  She is following suit.  Today she completed 5 huge meals for the 4 crew they will have and freezing them in their portable freezer.  Tomorrow, 5 more.  We are thinking the passage will take 10  +/- days …. I opted to go with prepackaged meals for the most part: 3 crew and very little freezer space.  I have it stowed in the shower in collapsible bins.  
We have soooo much to talk about with Jim and Cindy before we set off on our journey, our quick visit turned into a couple hours  We pulled ourselves away from their great company and headed home.  While we were away, the tide had risen several feet!  The floating docks keep a consistent level with the boat though.  We splurged on electricity, a small extra fee, and turned the heat on tonight.  The chill soon gone from the boat.  A quick dinner and then bed.  

Oct 27   tuesday  Beaufort NC / Town Creek Marina
Windy and chilly.  Rain on and off for the day.  We checked in with Chris Parker (weather forecasters for cruisers) for an off shore weather update…The weekend looks pretty good.  Stay tuned…
HUGE off shore lures...
We busied ourselves with things from the list of to dos before the passage.  The fenders are stowed under the dinghy on deck.  Deck dorade's (air vents) removed and seals put in there place to prevent water from going down them if we hit heavy weather.  Jack lines installed.  Jack lines run the length of the deck, secured at bow and stern.  When on deck, we wear a lifejacket with a harness and it is clipped to the jack line or pad eyes while in the cockpit.  This ensures that rules 1, 2 and 3 are followed.  
Boat rule #1 - stay on the boat
Boat rule #2 - STAY on the BOAT!
Boat rule #3 - ALWAYS follow rules 1 and 2 
The storm sail secured on deck.  Loose items finding new homes so they won’t shift about.  Our menu for meals is complete and packages stowed.  By afternoon we were ready for a break so we accompanied Jim (S/v Splash) to Moorehead City, about 10 miles away.  Thank you courtesy car… Jim was getting root canal, having just discover an abscess… we checked out the strip mall shops while he went under the drill.  Moorhead City is quite large and has all the big box stores and lots of marine shops to fill the needs of the cruisers driving and departing from this convenient location.  We are within a few miles of the open Atlantic making it is a good place to depart for a trip ‘outside’ to head south and avoid the canal traffic and obstacles. 

We had  Jim and Cindy over for dinner.  One thing let to another and before we knew it the clock said we’d better get some sleep.  
Red sky at night !!! bodes well for tomorrow 

Oct 28  wednesday
Rain. rain. raaaain.   Lots of rain today.  ‘Chris’ says the weather and winds to the BVI’s will be acceptable Thursday  through Saturdaynfor departure… We want a peaceful crossing of the Gulf Stream. It is notorious for bringing the most resilient sailors to their knees; green and puking.  You need to time the winds, current and waves just right to cross it, or get tossed about for a good long time.  Very uncomfortable.  The stream usually lies about 40 miles off shore from here and continues east up to 100 more miles.  A days run (24 hours) on cruising boats our size.  Jim and Cindy have decided to depart with the out going tide Thursday, their crew having arrived today.  Best of luck!  Safe travels.  Following seas… 
With few projects to do in the rain, we stayed below of the most part.  An afternoon run to Moorehead City for new flares, having just discovered ours expire this November.  The expired flares will still work but the coast guard requires ‘fresh’ stock to be legal.  It was a good excuse to get out anyway.  The rains finally eased off after dark.  The wind losing steam as well.  

Oct 29 thursday
What a whirlwind of a day.  Chris our weather guru made a recommendation we leave for the BVI’s late Thursday (bumpy ride) or Friday early.  We are leaving Friday.  So that set in motion all the last minute details we needed to do.  Stow all things not needed during the passage in secure places.  Stow all things needed for the passage in accessible secure places.  It was nearing noon and we had things reorganized pretty good so we headed over to S/v Splash to see Jim, Cindy and crew off.  They opted for the Thursday window.  Hugs and pictures, then off with their dock lines.  Safe travels!!!!
We went over our list of to dos again, dotted the i’s and crossed the tee’s… Then off to get Bob in New Bern.  The marina owners have been incredibly helpful.  Carol runs the office.  She has the most pleasant demeanor, always smiling and has a kind word.  Bob’s flight was on time, we scooped him and his bag up and headed back to Beaufort. 
One task we have put off till now was getting some fishing gear.  The choices are immense for 2 people that don't fish much and have little experience with off shore fishing.  Carol at the Marina made some calls and found a place at Atlantic Beach, one of the coast islands off Moorehead City / Beaufort.  She very generously have us the keys back to the courtesy car have we were off.  With Bob’s help we made our selection.  It’s easy to spent a boat unit or more on this stuff.  There are even computerized versions (cha ching).  We opted for a much lesser version with the proprietors of the tackle shop all but guaranteeing a successful catch.  I guess all those prepackaged meals may have to wait for another voyage!  
Dinner with Bob, Jim and Kathy 
Back aboard again, we toasted Bob’s arrival properly.  By now it was well after dark, so we headed to the marina restaurant; City Kitchen.  We small venue above the marina facility overlooking the harbor.  The menu  small and eclectic.  The meal was quite good, a bit on the pricy side though.  Back aboard we caught up on events at home and shared some of our adventures.  By 10 I was a pumpkin and headed off to bed, the guys up for a bit longer.  

Oct 30  
Chris’s update.  It’s a go.  Waiting any longer means waiting indefinitely due to another front coming through.  So.  It’s show time.  We hope to be in Jos Van Dyke, BVI in about 10 days… No internet or  phone’s till then.  Just Chris or other ‘hammies’ listening in on SSB… 
This is what we have planned soooo long and hard for. All the prep-work, safety measures and dreams coming together.  We are living our dream!

See you in 10 









Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Oriental NC and surrounding area

Oct 16  Oriental NC  friday   Oriental
To make the beds... everything has to move out of the bunk
The morning was filled with chores.  Bedding changes, shifting supplies so Jake and Sue could  have a proper place to stay / sleep for the week.   The spare bunk becomes a ‘garage’ when it’s just the two of us.  While I tackled the below decks, Jim applied Poli Glow to the cockpit gelcoat.  Poly Glow is a fantastic product we came across at the Chicago Strictly Sail Boat Show a few years ago.  It is a sealant used instead of wax to protect the gelcoat from the oxidizing sun damage.  It leaves a shiny finish that looks great.  It is incredibly easy to apply with a cloth and dries almost immediately, a few coats every 6 months or so.


Sailloft ... they stitched a few thing for us
The 'sewer' sits in a hole in the raised floor and pulls / manurers the sails as needed
We had enough time to make a run to town to pick up part 2 of our chart and guide book order before our friends arrived.  What a great reunion!  So nice to see them after 5+ months, nearly a 1000 mile drive for them.  Hellos and hugs, then we carted their gear and our mail order packages they brought to the boat.  After a quick settling in we headed to town for opening night of the local Front Porch Music Festival.  Tonight we heard Salty Paws at the Old Theater.  We left after their set which was followed by a the movie Muscle Shoals, which Jim and I had already seen.  Back aboard we had a late dinner, pork roast and mashed potatoes and tried to catch up on each others latest adventures.  Jake and Sue have the travel bug too and recently took a trip to Alaska for 2 weeks.  One week on land, one at sea along the inland passage.  They had a fantastic time.  

marine consignment store
Oct 17  Oriental  saturday  Oriental
Morning: breakfast and more catching up.  Then we packed a lunch cooler and headed to town for the Festival.  Jake and Sue couldn’t resist a quick (not) stop at the marine consignment store where they found lots of awesome things, nautical related.  I managed to find a few more things as well.  This place is a must see to believe establishment.  Nothing has a price, “make an offer”.  There is no real order to anything.  You step into the old building and just start pawing through overstuffed shelves, bins spewing with clothes, electronics, hardware, piles of line, shelves of sails (many, many dozen)… a hodgepodge of goods.  Well over an hour later Sue and I walked out with our finds, Jim and Jake having lost interest long ago had set off to hear the tunes.  

sail section of the consignment store
There were 19 venues providing live music throughout the day.  Blues, Folk, Gospel, Bluegrass etc.  The weather was perfect.  Sunny and warm.  We caught up with the guys and wandered up and down a number of streets, listen here for bit, move on and repeat throughout the afternoon.  The guys split off and headed to the car show while Sue and I hit the arts and crafts.  A few more goodies in the bag, we next found a great store for outdoor / travel clothes.  Then we found a fantastic fresh fish market, were we bought fresh flounder and crab meat, dinner covered for a few days.  More live music at a local Bar and Grill where we too ate.  The mosquitos ate nearly as much of Sue as she did of her dinner.  We caught a bit of the Cubs game but we were all pretty tired so it was time to head home.  We finished the evening with treats Sue bought at Trader Joe’s… Cranberry Dunkers…oh so good !!!

  Oct 18  sunday   Oriental
front porch music
front porch music ...
musicians ...











Too cold to go out, too windy to play we sat there we two (couples) with nothing to do…. Wait!  we can go shopping…. The winds were 18 - 20 knots from the north and 40ish degrees.  None of us wanted anything to do with being outside for long.  Oriental is pretty small so we headed to the next burg over, Bayboro.  The guys dropped us off at a store and they headed out to find something to amuse themselves with.  A lumber yard fit their bill.  (We need to make a support on the boat for holding jerry jugs; containers for extra fuel / water while on long passages.)  They returned with their purchase and picked us up with our goodies.  We stowed them aboard the boat then decided another adventure was in order, still cold and blowing like crazy.  We headed for Beaufort, NC (sounds like   bO fort, NOT to be confused with Beaufort (bU fort, SC), the locals get kind of miffed if you confuse them.  … We will be in Beaufort / Moorehead City NC for the next leg of out travels, staging for the off shore portion of the trip to the BVI’s.  





The route via car took us on a car ferry to and from, part of the state highway system.  The town was pretty quite this Sunday afternoon, the ice-cream shops not getting much business (too cold).  We walked up and down the water front.  Across the bay the wild horses have been seen grazing along the shore line.  This is one of 4 local areas where the descendants of the Spanish breeds can observed, more or less wild.  We didn’t see any on this excursion.  Having stretched our legs sufficiently we pilled into the car and returned to the boat.  The evening drifted away into night time and we took our respective places in our bunks.   
waiting for the ferry






Jim and I have been sharing the aft cabin, just enough room for 2 people… that like each other  (we do).  With nighttime temps in the low 40’s (I feel your pain Michigan!) we have been pretty cozy in our double bunk heading into bed, but by morning we are snuggled so close to each other, there just might be enough room for a third person…








Oct 19  monday    Oriental
crossing the river
Sue and I made a quick run to town while the guys modified and installed the 2 X 4 for the fuel can support on deck.  It was still blowing steady at about 10 -15, gusting higher.  We took off and the guys hoisted sails,  we were healing 10 - 25 degrees depending on the gusts.   Sailing in the sound meant tacking back and forth to avoid shore.  The cold winds kept me hunkered down bellow while the rest of the crew braved the temps and enjoyed the ride.  Jim found a nice anchorage up the South River about 5 miles off the bay, also useful as a hurricane hole if needed.  We set the anchor which meant it was time for our ‘anchor beer’, a newly established custom acquired from our Canadian cruising friends, Jim and Cindy.  Sue put together some snacks to accompany the beverages and we enjoyed the peaceful setting, our neighbor a Bald Eagle keeping watch.  Dinner: crab cakes and salad followed by a movie.  
A sliver of a moon and plenty of stars for those hardy enough to go on deck.  
Sue and Jake 

oct 20  tuesday  South River / anchor
A beautiful sunny morning; fresh, hot bread pudding from the oven to warm the cabin.  
The guys then tackled the next phase of our off shore prep.  The dinghy was brought onboard and lashed to the front deck and deflated.  A new line for the whisker pole installed.  The whisker pole extends out and is used to hold the front sail out and off the boat, helping it to stay in position.  They then rigged the 3rd reef point on the mast, boom and sail for heavy weather.  This allows the sail to be made much smaller but still provides propulsion under strong winds.   A bit of a rest then a quick lunch.  
We left South River with sunny skies and just a hint of a breeze.  At the mouth of the bay the winds picked up a bit, not enough to set the sails.  We anchored in the harbor off Oriental for the evening.  Anchor beer / beverages served, this afternoons concoction: coconut water, a dab of sweetened condensed milk, white rum, finished with a shave of nutmeg then poured over ice.  Tasty and refreshing.   A very peaceful evening with 8 or so other boats bobbing about.  Ribs and garlic mash for dinner, dessert: Sue’s velvet crumb cake with strawberries, pretty darn good.  A game of ‘iota’ before bed.  




oct 21  wednesday  New Bern
Another beautiful morning.  Temps are steadily getting warmer as the cold front moves on, high in the upper 60’s today.  We upped anchor around 9:30 and headed for New Bern, NC.  A good sized small town with plenty to do for a few days if needed.  A late afternoon arrival then showers.  Jake and Sue headed out to check out the sights, we caught up on emails and had a quick nap.  
Spanish Moss on trees
one of the New Bern Bears
New Bern Bear Mascot 'Getting his Pink On'...
The town is nicknamed Bear Town, may shops sporting a bear statue artistically decorated and displayed.  New Bern was founded by Swiss and German immigrants in 1710,  naming the town ‘New Bern’ after Bern, the capitol of Sweden.  Bern(e) is the old Germanic word for bear, the bear became the symbol for the town.  There are lots of lovely old homes circa 1800’s here.  Two story.  Big porches.  We found a great hardware reminiscent of the former ‘Wilkins Hardware’ of Saugatuck.  Crammed full of hardware supplies as well as an assortment of kitchen, garden and other useful gadgets.  We found all the hardware for making a dinghy cable lock system.   
Lanterns
Survivors !!!
















New Bern is also the birthplace of Pepsi Cola!  Caleb Bradham invented the beverage in 1898 in his pharmacy.  It was originally called ‘Brad’s Drink’.   He renamed the drink a few months later to Pepsi-Cola, claiming it had health benefits.  It became a very popular beverage and by 1903 Pepsi-Cola was made an official trademark.  The recipe was altered during WWI due to the high price of sugar.  After the war, sugar priced again soared and lead to the the company going bankrupt.  The company was sold and after a number of years made a comeback… Still alive and well today.

dinner out
Next up, dinner.  Going on the advice of a local we went to MJ’s.  We all enjoyed our meals which was a good thing since next up was the cubs play off game #4.  We headed to a pub to watch and were stunned to see the stats: top of the FIRST inning, 2 men on base, score 4 - 0…  the Mets leading.  At least there were 2 outs.  It’s looking like the ‘Back to the Future” scene about the cubs winning the world series on this date in 2015… might not be a reality.  Luckily the pub was closing up (9pm ! ?) so we had to leave.  We’ll have to wait till morning to see the outcome.  Back aboard it was time for bed.  (by now you must know… the Cubs lost, but there’s always next year!)…
Oriental home, love the fence
Oct 22   thursday   New Bern
We weren't up very long when Jim noticed black smoke coming from a few blocks away.  No sirens yet.  He headed off to see what was up… NO camera!  grrrrr   The smoke continued billowing, then flames shooting skyward 20 + feet from an SUV parked on the street.  Small explosions emanating from the vehicle as the first fire truck began dousing the flames.  Soon more fire engines began appearing along with police and ambulances… the road was closed by the time I got there… no entry even for the reporters looking for their scoop.  An hour or so later, the fire extinguished, engines were departing.  Then the burnt out hull of the SUV was hauled off on a flat bed.  Quite a lot of Harbor Cinema for so early in the morning.  We never heard any more about what happened.  

Oriental Provision Store
The marina is pretty much in the middle of the historic downtown area.  I heard there would be music tonight just a few blocks away.   A bit of investigating and we were told it was a fundraiser for Breast Cancer Awareness: Get your Pink On, their theme.  We decided to stay another day since we had no firm plans to be anywhere else.  Sue and I took advantage of the extra time in town and used the curtesy car to head to the mall after the “chores’ were done (water tanks filled and head pumped).  The mall was pretty small but suited my needs, mainly girl time and TJ Max.  
The car returned, we headed off for lunch, Beer Army.  A micro brewery with great burgers.  We met up with the guys and had a nice stroll back, a few detours along the way browsing in the shops.  Jim was happy to report he had had the best, biggest and most oysters he had even experienced for his lunch!  Raw of course.  He was so stuffed with them he didn’t eat any dinner.    
After a nice nap (or two) we headed to the ‘festivities’.  Part of a town block was blocked off and decorated with lots of huge pink ribbons.  Bags with LED candles lined the street with names commemorating cancer survivors and those lost.   Tables draped in pink table cloths and vendors selling goods, all proceeds for the foundation stay here in the community.  Testimonials were given by a number of people.  The music portion of the evening was pretty short but entertaining.  The event winding down, we headed off for a snack next door then back aboard.   Having made it past boaters midnight, one by one we headed off to our bunks.  

the fish market
Oct 23   friday : Upper Broad Creek
Today’s plan: anchor for the night en route to Oriental.   We got a very late start not needing to go very far.  Temps approaching 80’, sun shining!  A light breeze.  We found a quiet spot on Upper Broad Creek.  Only a couple of houses, mostly marsh and trees on the banks of the river.  The anchor was set by 1:30, anchor beers soon after which we discovered are closely followed by anchor naps.  What a great tradition we have acquired.  
We all found a comfy spot aboard and lounged away the afternoon.  Fish jumping all around us.  Many popping out of the water as if they were a bar of soap in the wet sudsy hands of someone squeezing them, squirting straight up and plopping down a few feet away.  Entertaining to watch.  The trees here are just starting to show a hint of color reminding us that it is indeed fall. 

We dined on broiled flounder and veggies off the grill.  After dinner settled a bit, we enjoyed Jim’s secret chocolate mouse recipe… a little bit of heaven in a small glass bowl.  It’s our last evening with Jake and Sue, they’ll be landlubbers tomorrow.  We have really enjoyed their company.   

Oct 24  saturday :  Oriental
Oriental... huge old tree stump with a cement bench in it's roots
We were in no great hurry to depart.  The sun slowly digesting the morning dew.  We made our departure just before 10.  A respectable breeze had piped up and we were able to pull out the head sail, 3 - 4 knots for speed.  Needing to follow the narrow channel to the bay, we couldn't change our course till we reached the bay where we picked up a bit more speed.  The air was quite chilly.  The morning worn on to afternoon.  We had to use the iron wind the last few miles.  Back in Oriental at Whittaker Point Marina Jake and Sue gathered their things and loaded their car and yet another teary goodbye was said.  
Jim and I got to work right away, we had 2+ weeks of laundry and sheets to wash.  Jim used the courtesy car to run the propane tanks to the hardware store to fill it.  It was well after dark before we called it a night.  





























Friday, October 16, 2015

ICW : Manteo to Oriental NC

Oct 7 - 8  Wednesday / Thursday
Manteo, Roanoke Island,  the Outer Banks NC.

Elizabeth II
We had an uneventful ride from Coinjock to Manteo.  Although it was sunny it was pretty chilly.  Only mid 60’s by mid day.  Long pants, hats, gloves.   The winds were pretty brisk clipping along at 20+ knots.   We traversed the Virginia Cut (canal) to Albermarle Sound were we were able to sail a short while.  The canal part of the trip was pretty secluded.  Mostly swampland but lovely.
We took a hard left in the Sound and headed for the Outer Banks, Roanoke Island.  Our 2 day stay included hot showers at the marina, lunch at a Full Moon Brewery and watching the Cubs WIN the Wildcard spot at Poor Richard’s: food, drinks and entertainment… trivia contest included.  We toured Festival Park and learned a bit about the Lost Colony.   More than 400 years ago 117 men, women and children sailed from Plymouth England to establish a settlement on Roanoke Island.  They vanished just 2 years later, leaving only one word carved in a tree, ‘Croatoan’. ???  To this day it is unknown what happened to them.  
The Park area includes a mock up of an Indian Village, the Settlement Village site and a reproduction of the Elizabeth II, a 16th century sailing vessel.  Volunteers ‘work’ the ship and settlement area, dressed in period clothing and allow visitors to handle and experience different aspects of life from this time period.  

blacksmith
hand and foot plane
We had a nice walk around Manteo after the Park.  We happened upon a family setting up for a garage sale… I had to snoop around to see if there were any treasures.  The home’s owner Diane, grew up in this area.  One of the treasures I took away was a hand caved fishnet needle her husband’s father had made and used for fish nests.  While talking with the family, we discovered we were also in the company of fellow sailors, Raymoth and ??.  They sailed from Maine to the Bahamas living aboard for about10 years on their sailboat, Sarafin… the previous owners of Sarafin were the “Pardys”…. The Pardy’s are known in sailing circles as pioneers in cruising, having sailed zillions of miles about the world in Sarafin, their 24 foot wooden sailboat, (with no motor at the time) as well as a few other boats.  
Diane with hand made fishnet needles

Oct 9 more ICW  …. friday
We pushed off the Manteo dock just after 9 am.  We had to back track to get to the Albemarle Sound then on to Alligator River were the depths in the ICW were sufficient for our 6 foot keel.  We are going to miss the Annapolis Strictly Sail Boat Show, I’m pretty bummed.  It is one of the things I have dreamed of attending or years, it is kind of like the pilgrimage to Mecca to me, you have to go at least once in your life time.  All things cool, neat, and sailboating related are there to see, buy and dream about.  We are just too far away to make the trip, even by car.  

More crab pots en route today.  North Carolina has no laws regulating where crabbers can / cannot put their pots… most states regulate them, they must be out of marked channels… Pretty frustrating for transients to always be on the lookout for floats.  Then there are the dead heads (tree trunks, not Grateful Dead fans) in the narrow areas, usually near shore but a few pop up in and around the channel, just to keep things interesting .  

crab boat with crab pots
Sunny and much warmer today we had a 7 hour passage mostly in the narrow ICW ditch and shallow waters of the Alligator River - Pungo Canal.  We anchored just off the entrance to the Alligator River / Pungo Canal.   There were 3 other boats sharing the space.  Plenty of room.  It’s a wide part of the river.  Low land,  pine trees and beautiful grasses with fronds like ostrich feathers.  Very peaceful and dark.  Lots of stars.  Absolutely no ‘net’ services of any kind.  No way to find out if the Cubs won or lost.  ( update: they lost)

Oct 10   saturday
On to Belhaven NC.  The transit down the canal was scenic with lots of pines and swamps which gave way to higher ground, 3 feet or so above sea level and still more pines and snippets of sandy shores.  The boat traffic has been increasing as we continue south, the seasons are catching up with us and we are all migrating to warmer weather in search of sun.  
ICW
Belhaven is a lovely little community on the Pungo River.  Beautiful old 2 story homes, well kept.  The River Forest Marina we have chosen for our next few nights stay is quite a find.  They offer free laundry (6 new machines, 3 wash / 3 dry), fuel pumped at your slip, good internet and free golf carts to use for shopping, restaurants, etc… 
transportation
We met fellow cruisers: Cindy and Jim aboard S/v Splash and Jean and Frank aboard S/v Talisman.   They met a while back and have been traveling together.  Cindy and Jim (Canadians) plan to head off shore to the BVI’s about the same time as we will… We have vague plans to make the 1,500 mile passage about the same time.  We all had happy hour together then Jim and I headed to town to catch game 2 of the playoffs… Jacks Neck bar and restaurant fit the bill.  Big screen Tv’s and great pizza.  The Cubs Won….

Oct 11   sunday
Jim has been playing with the SSB radio for days now.  We can hear a number of voices on different channels / frequencies but we have not had anyone reply to our request for a radio check; can you hear us?… until this morning!  Chris Parker heard Jim’s transmission call and said he could here us loud and clear.  He broadcasts from the Florida Keys.  Whew. Now we know we can be heard as well as receive information about weather, news etc…
Next up, we purchased tickets ‘home’ for family business and visits, the first 2 weeks of December.  Minneapolis, Chicago and Michigan.  December.  DECEMBER.  Snow. Cold.  I have often said, I was meant to vacation in the snow, not to live in it, so… I have to eat my words.  

cotton field
Jim and Cindy
On to our chores for the day.  Groceries via golf cart.  How fun, I feel so ‘cruise’y.  We make a detour and discovered we really are in the south… there is real cotton growing in the field by the store, in bloom. Pretty cool for a northern MI girl where we grow pine trees and mosquitoes.   Returning we got on with the remaining chores.  I made Artha’s Pecan Pie, Jim hosed the salt off the boat, we did some laundry and Jim installed the hardware on the mast for the 3rd reef point.  This will allow us to shorten (reef) the sail, which makes it smaller, for heavy winds; safer and more comfortable. 

Transporting dinner















Cindy and Jim are celebrating Canada’s Thanksgiving tonight and we have been included along with Jean and Frank.   Cindy made really juicy turkey tenderloins wrapped in bacon, salad, beets, and stuffing… It was wonderful!  Jean’s mashed potatoes completed the ensemble.  We dined on the deck in shorts; pants and sleeves, while the sun set over the river.  Feeling the chill, we finished the evening aboard Inishnee with pecan pie and ‘Not Your Grandpa’s Rootbeer’ (you should give it a try).   Everything was going just fine; good food, great company when Jean and Frank shared a very disturbing story.  A few days ago, Frank had hoisted their anchor to get underway and used a bucket of water to wash the mud off the chain.  They were making good time motoring down the river, enjoying the day when Frank noticed a stowaway in the cockpit, on the seat, near the companion way… A  #@*&^+=  snake!  OMG !!!!  A  SNAKE.  ON A BOAT!  OMG…Jean was of course in disbelief, who wouldn’t be????  The boat and driver made a few erratic swerves while the crew tried to get the dang thing out.  They tried using a bucket of water to wash it down the drain, but it kept swimming back up the scuppers.  Frank managed to grab it with BBQ tongs and toss it out but in the commotion it landed on the deck… The tongs having ‘subdued’ the snake in the last encounter, Frank was able to finally get it off the boat…  If this ever happens to us… Jim will be in such trouble… He will be instantly deaf, followed by having to single hand the boat, rid it of the dreadful creature…  while having the added burden of me clamped upon his shoulders…. Frank and Jean are not sure how it got on board… Maybe scooped up with the bucket of water, maybe swam up the cockpit drain… ?  I hope I don't have dreams about this!  
Completely placated, we parted ways just before midnight… boaters midnight of course.  They are off to other adventures tomorrow as are we, going in different directions for now.  

Oct 12  monday 
Oriental NC   
Our travels today took us out the Pungo River crossing the Pamlico River entrance continuing south past Goose Creek and through another land cut then out the sound to Oriental.  Although it was chilly the sun poked out just a bit to remind us it was still on duty in some parts.  


growing a mustache
Mark checking the rigging

We are seeing quite a few boat with their ever increasing mustaches as we continue southward.   The waters of the Intercostal Waterway for the last hundred or so miles has taken on black tea / dark coffee coloring.  The color is due to the mostly cypress and juniper trees who’s roots and decaying vegetation release tannic acid.  The tannins stain the water and in tern stain the bows of the boats giving them their trade mark rusty colored mustache.  The loopers were easy to spot while in the waters of Michigan and Canada and then again throughout the Erie Canal.  Looper’s being those who circumnavigate the East Coast, Great Lakes, Mississippi River, continuing through the Gulf of Mexico and around Florida to the East Coast, usually counter clock wise. The starting point being where ever your home port is.   Our mustache is barely stubble, our slow speed through the water being so slow compared to the power boats, our bow wave is generally low and small.


consultation
We followed the channel closely as always, skirting it would mean a stern grounding.  6 1/2 hours and Oriental was ahead and to starboard.  We were able to score a spot at the FREE dock.  48 hour limit every 30 days.  The dockage in the area is generally $1.25 - 2.00 a foot per night so free is great on the cruising kitty.  We tied up adjacent to one of several huge shrimp boats that call this home port.  They are out for days at a time.  Being so close to the ‘catch’ we get all the free smells we want while on deck.  The little village has a lot to offer.  Several restaurants, a good marina chandlery, and a marine consignment garage.  All things we will sample while here.  
Our boat buddies from home are joining us Friday for a week or so aboard.  It will be good to see Sue and Jake after nearly 5 months.  An added bonus they are bringing our mail and some stuff we ordered for the upcoming voyage to the BVI’s.  We touch base with them about timing, meeting place, etc. then we head off for game 3 of the playoffs, Cubs vs St. Louis Cardinals.  The cubs win the game 8 - 6 …. one more and they go on to the Championship games, the winners them face-off in the World Series.  

Oct 13  tuesday
cool stealth boats in the harbor...
We are up with the shrimp boats as they return to port this morning.  Smoke pouring from their heavily worked diesels.  Their bow and stern thrusters assigning them to the dock.  We make a list off ‘to do’s’ for the day.  Order charts for the Caribbean, See what kind of goodies are at the consignment store and catch the next Cubs game.  We also call an old friend who resides and works in Oriental.  Mark was one of 4 crew that crossed the Atlantic with Jim, Captain Larry and Jon (keep your hands off the off German girl) in 2004.  I was able to join the crew in the Azores for the final leg of the trip to Portugal.  S/v Blue Star carried us all safely through challenging weather and momentous times.  For Jim and I, it was life changing.  The trip officially set us in motion for our current lifestyle.  Capt. Larry opened an unknown world to all of us and we are forever grateful.  Plus, we have someone to blame when things don't go as planned!  
Mark is now a professional rigger with his own company based out of Oriental.  We meet up with Mark at the chandlery and briefly catch up.  He is quite busy with his business as well as boat deliveries.   
We find some good bargains on used equipment at  the consignment store.  By the time we return it is time to watch the Cubs win the playoff game!  6 - 4…  What a nail biter.  We had the bar cheering along with us as the afternoon slipped into evening.  

Oct 14  wednesday
It was a slow morning for me, not feeling on top of my game.  Jim meanwhile polished the stainless on the top sides.  The salt water turns it rusty in no time.  We hired Mark to come back today to inspect the rigging.  Mark, Vic (marks father) and Jeremy (Marks assistant) came by just after noon.  He was up and down the mast, checking the stays and shrouds (cables that hold the mask upright) as well as all the fitting on deck and lines that run the sails.  He gave us a clean bill of health and said the rig was ready for off shore sailing.  Mark was then off to other jobs and meetings.  
Melinda and Harry
We had to vacate the free dock, our 48 hours nearly up.  We shoved off as another boat circled the channel, thrilled at there luck of a place at the free dock for the night.  There are 2 free docks here but one of them is off limits while the town has a barge and crew coming tonight to make a few repairs.   We anchored just outside the harbor along with a few other boats.  Just as we were getting settled in for the afternoon, Harry and Melinda Schell from S/v Sea Schell dinghy’d over to say hello.  What a find they were.  They have been ‘cruising’ for years having left after their last child graduated from college.  They were going ‘out’ for one year… but it has turned into 13.  They were a wealth of information especially about SSB radios and protocol.  We picked their brains for a good hour.  They are wintering this year in the Bahamas but have been all over the Caribbean, Central and South America aboard their boat, a Tayana cutter.  They headed for Sea Schell as we tried to digest all the great info.  I got dinner going as the sun was making its way to the horizon when Jim and Cindy (S/v Splash) came by after their trip to town.  Our discussions continued on through dinner and well after dark.  They are a really enjoyable couple and we share mutual interests including Rye and Water, red and white wine, and Connemara, making for easy conversations.  We have plans to get together again soon in hopes of firming up travel plans to the BVI’s.
Slaite'

Oct 15   thursday
Working from the information from Harry yesterday, Jim found several of the ‘nets’ and was able to follow the conversations quite well.  The nets are organized radio broadcasts lead by an individual representing a group to provide information at a given time.  Some nets are strictly weather related, others are quite social: who is where and what gathering (happy hour or shore party) is taking place today etc.   
We upped the anchor soon after the morning nets and headed for a marina where we will stay for a few days, friends Jake and Sue (yeah!) are on their way to visit so we wanted a convenient place to meet up.  We had made reservations for at least 3 days, the weekend, because Oriental has a Front Porch Music Festival this weekend and slips fill up for these events.  We headed to the chosen location but were unable to find the marina.  Circling the harbor, repeated calls to the harbor master we were still confused.  The harbor master, Ashley, said he could see us circling… ???  We did an about face to see Ashley on a dock waving us over… still confused we headed his way with him on the line.  It turns out the marina we called owns 2 marinas (different names) and they send their transients to this marina they just neglected to tell us their policy… It is waaaaay away from town, no way to realistically walk to town… the concern was evident on my face.  Ashley says ‘no problem, we have curtesy car; free.  Okay.  However, due to the Music Festival we are docked as far from the mainland /  facilities as we could possibly be placed and still be tied to the pier.  Our bow literally is several feet past the end of the pier.  The marina has numerous boats heading here for the festival.  We at least have a spot and glad we made reservations days in advance.  
We are in shrimp country now
So now the task of once again cleaning the salt and crud from the boat, in and out.  Today I tackle outside.  It is a lovely afternoon, nearly 80’ and perfect for scrubbing the canvas (mildew form soooo much rain) and then the cushions and cockpit.  Jim takes care of paperwork below.  A few hours later we are ready for a break.  We hit the showers and clean up.  The facility here is top notch.  Clean, well equipped  and mostly everything is new.  They have a nice selection of take one / leave one books in the lobby… I sit on the floor perusing the selection when a the biggest cockroach I have ever seen scurries out from under the book shelf and past me.  Aaaahh goes up the call and Jim comes running.   Even he agrees IT. IS. HUGE.  books strewn about on the floor, I do my best to return them to the shelf with la coocaracha staring at me his antennas twitching from the corner…  I back off and it charges me… I arm myself with the biggest, heaviest book I could find and … splaaat… he is no longer.  Jim to the rescue again, disposed of the remains.  The dilemma, I want 2 of the books… 


We are then off to town via ‘courtesy car’ to pick up charts and guide books for the Caribbean we had ordered earlier this week and a few hardware do dads including roach spray.  Back aboard I put the book selection in a ziplock and give it a shot of bug juice.  They will stay contained in their debugging bag till tomorrow.  Should be sufficient to rid them of critters as well as any eggs that might have been deposited.  We’ll have to read them with rubber gloves I guess.  We then get on with relaxing and happy hour before dinner.  The sun sets shortly after and and we hit the books (previously acquired) for bit before officially calling it a day.