The last of Spain.... almost
The Spanish rule the nightly promenade… starting around 7pm and lasting often past midnight. Strolling the streets and dining late; 8pm being early for meals. Summers are hot here. Air conditioning is hard to find. A siesta (long lunch and rest) is taken in the afternoons to combat the heat of the day.
One of the fantastic thing we have noticed throughout most of Europe… when you go out to dinner; you are seated. Given menus, etc. This is now your table… for the entire night. There is never any rush to get you served and out the door for the next customer…. It is expected that you stay, eat, enjoy.
Our marina was located at the terminus of La Rambla’s (de mer)… The famed pedestrian mall that runs through central Barcelona, 1.2 kilometers… about 1 mile. Tree lined with plenty of stalls for eating, drinking and shopping. Thousands of promenader’s stroll up and down La Rambla nightly… fewer during the day. 
Along with the usual stalls and shops for souvenir purchases, Barcelona has an enormous population of undocumented workers selling goods. Often knockoff versions of famous name brand items, which are illegal to sell / possess. There are HUNDREDS of ‘manteros’ trying to sell their ‘blanket’ of wares; shoes, backpacks, bags and sunglasses.
These blankets / sheets (mantas) are secured on each corner with a rope that is synch to the middle. The workers pull the cords, scoop up their goods in the mantas and hoist it over their shoulder, like a vagrant Santa Clause… making their ‘shop’ completely portable … which is needed in this hotly contested venue.
The undocumented workers cannot get a viable job so they have to rely on an underground network of sellers who assist in setting up the ‘shops’. The local / documented workers are justifiably angry over this practice, having to pay taxes and rent space for their stores.
The undocumented workers cannot get a viable job so they have to rely on an underground network of sellers who assist in setting up the ‘shops’. The local / documented workers are justifiably angry over this practice, having to pay taxes and rent space for their stores.
The police bring in extra guards and police vehicles every evening. They then make a slow and steady march along the waterfront toward the mantero’s who have to scoop up their goods and move on… They eventually reposition somewhere close. The scene, repeated night after night after night.
Occasionally there is a ‘bust’ breaking up the supply chain and confiscating the goods… Temporary at best. It seems it’s better to have the (mostly) men working doing something than loitering and turning to violent crimes…
Our last few days in Barcelona coincided with the annual Gràcia neighborhood festival. This quaint neighborhood is transformed into a paradise of homemade decorations. Each street competing for the ‘best’ of show… The decorations are all handmade from recycled materials. Each street / block features a chosen theme selected months in advance. The residents spent hundreds and hundreds of hours making the decorations for their theme. 
Visitors are engulfed in these ‘worlds’ as they stroll through the settings. A 3-D experience. Competition is fierce, the most elaborate streets require guards to control the traffic… the lines monstrously long snaking around the block waiting in turn to pass through. 
A few tasks needed addressing... up the mast and install the broken hail damaged wind vanes.
Our solar panel dilemma continues… our damage solar panel replacements won’t be built for at least another week then they need to be shipped to the supplier then on to us… so, we decided we needed to move on down the coast.
Jim notified the marina we would be departing soon and would like to settle our account. Curiously, the marina had no knowledge / record of our correspondence prior to arriving… after much shuffling of papers and searching through emails, we discovered we had been at the wrong marina! whaaa? We had requested a berth at RCMB but were actually at RCNB… the marinas are adjacent to each other and use the same VFH handle…. our apologies to RCMB were accepted.
We departed on the 1pm bridge opening, 150+ nautical miles to go to Valencia. an overnight passage. 3 hour watches, motoring and a bit of sailing. A few dolphin sightings. Ships and ferries crossing our bow and stern.
We made Valencia around 7pm. Plenty of time to check in and get secured before dark, or so we thought…. We were instructed to report to the fuel dock to register, 3 boats already tied to the quay. No room for us until someone departed. We were able to get a good long look at the city scape and the surrounding harbor during our 45 minutes of circling while waiting our turn. Several more boats streaming in doing the same. Finally our turn arrived.
We eased onto the wall and tied off unassisted. Jim was instructed to check in electronically then we would be escorted to a berth. The formalities finished a tender met us and signaled to follow. We had the wind at our backs (yeah) and easily slid into the berth… but, the dock hand wanted us on the other side of the pontoon…. so, we un-cleated and back out…. maneuvered to the opposite pontoon and re-berthed… just as the sun eased into the sea…
The next day there was a big blow so we stayed aboard. The following day, the forecast was (suppose to be ) perfect for traveling, so without even leaving the marina let alone exploring Valencia, we set off…
The seas were quite stirred up from the previous days blow leaving a big swell and sloppy water. Jim, not to be detoured, pressed on, assuring Kathy it would get better… and it did.
The pretty port of Dénia was our next stop.
Throughout the day we heard VHF calls regarding ‘work’ being done at a port and to use extreme caution when entering… as it turned out, Dénia was the harbor requiring extreme caution… a large passenger / car ferry had missed the mark and run aground at the harbor mouth a couple days prior, and was firmly stuck on the channel rock jetty near the entrance. Efforts to remove vehicles (70) were still underway as we entered… all passengers / crew (300+) had be evacuated the night of the grounding, 11:30pm - 2am…. And I thought I had an unpleasant sail… (attitude adjustment needed here! )
We showered and ate out at one of the marina restaurants a few steps from the boat. Burgers and bbq ribs… fantastic! and enough leftovers for tomorrows lunch.
We continued traveling south and west to Villajoyosa, en-route to Gibraltar where we again, hope to get out solar panel shipment resolved. We made a spectacular entrance! The winds had been building all day and of course on arrival hit their peak… We were directed to a berth and to ‘med moor’. It would be a tight squeeze even in ideal conditions… med mooring means boats are berthed hull to hull with fenders separating the vessels, no finger piers… The phrase ‘if you cant dock (berth) into the wind…. change your dock (berth)’…. is not an option when entering a foreign port, you are assigned a slip chosen by the marina.
So, Jim cut the wheel, the other boats occupants were standing by at the ready… Kathy had the bow lines in hand, when one of our fenders caught another boat’s stern line… Stern lines are secured to an anchor behind the boat and used to keep the outer portion of the boat from drifting….the rope for out fender finally broke allowing us to continue forward without damage to anything other than our pride…
We enjoyed a couple of days in Villajoyosa, chatting with our berth neighbors and an Irish family down the dock… slainté
Needing to press on still, our Schengen clock running near empty, we did an overnight to Puerto Aquadulce. A good sail. Light night traffic. We heard the first pan-pan call of the summer on the VHF. Pan-pan is the international code for ‘warning / be on the lookout for….’ We are now entering the coast area that shrinks to mere miles between the EU / Gibraltar and North Africa. Almost daily, immigrant boats are reported leaving Morocco and heading to Spain, hoping to reach land before being intercepted… This day we were to be on the look out for a vessel with up to 70 passengers on board and to report any sightings to the Coast Guard. 
A strong southerly wind kept us pinned to the wharf… 2 nights in port. One full day of rest. An afternoon stroll along the waterfront. Mmmmm; gelato and cocktails, before retiring to the boat for dinner… With a side of kamikaze showers. The pressure so strong the wand could not stay attached to the wall bracket. The wand would break free throwing itself about the shower stall, desperate to escape… or bludgeoned the fortunate sole standing naked trying to contain it as is thrashed about…. but, clean and fresh we did emerge; just a few bruises.
This area of the coast is called Coasta Blanca … the white coast. From off shore it’s easy to see the white limestone outcroppings and crags. It’s a popular tourist beach destination and rock climbing hub. It’s also home to the largest concentration of hydroponic greenhouses in the world! 26,000 hectares. More than half of europe’s produce needs are grown here.
Like in the US, the workers come from impoverished countries…immigrants and undocumented workers earning 33 -35 euros a day. Local inhabitants unwilling or unable to deal with the harsh conditions and extreme heat (up to 45*c) under the plastic coverings. Many of the ‘farms’ have no toilet facilities or running water, women are often forced into prostitution… The plastic debris from the green houses frequently blows into the sea. The pesticides and fertilizers drain into the ground water and eventually make there way to the sea…
Up early and out to sea. A small head wind and a light breeze. A long day ahead, over 50 miles… The seas built along with the winds head on…our progress seriously impaired. The bow buried several times, floods of water cascading over the bow and down gunnels…. and, of course we forgot (again!) to close one of the ports… not only will the vessel and crew need a wash down but the head as well…
So, a new course plotted to Adra, our heading changed and we were flying! From 3 knots of speed to over 7…. We covered the last few miles in under an hour. But, with wind still blowin’ docking could be a challenge as well. Marina staff and a few fellow cruisers were ready to assist. Lines were tossed and caught. Cleated and secured. Fenders buffeting the wharf side on. Another boat followed our wake, the shore crew again assisting. Strangely, only a few boats in port, a hundred plus berths vacant. Jim hooked up the water hose then proceeded to register with the harbor master.
Kathy rinsed the boat bow to stern, lifelines, winches and cockpit seating… then herself. Jim returned and followed suit.
A rest was in order. Having traveled only 25 (of the 50+) miles into breaking waves had beaten the crew up a bit… Inishnee seemed happy to have the afternoon off too.
Adra’s port is relatively new. Good piers and decent facilities. With the exception of the birds; Seagulls. Hundreds of them. The marina tries in vane to remove / discourage them with fishline and streamers but they seem unfazed. Several piers ‘painted’ white from their droppings. Possibly why there are so few cruising boats here… ?
We decided to see what the town had to offer gastronomically. At least 2 dozen restaurants in the 10 -12 blocks we wandered. We decided on ‘Chinos’…Chinese, mainly because it was the ONLY place open… It was well after 8pm but there was no sign of any of the other venues ever going to open, other than a few bar for drinks and helado (ice cream)… Which Kathy was fine with but Jim thought a ‘proper’ dinner should be attempted. A nightcap on the boat. 
Up with the sun we had no trouble departing. The winds were light at 4 knots. Flat seas. Perfect for crossing the narrows near the Straights of Gibraltar… pan-pan, pan-pan, pan-pan…. repeating all day… we were flanked late morning by a big orange ship… Spanish Search and Rescue. Whew. No worries here, they are equipped to handle emergencies etc.
We motored all day… ALL. DAY… better than pounding into the waves, but just barely. The shoreline filled with greenhouses continued for miles and miles and miles. The sides of mountains sheared of and flatten to accommodate tens of thousands of plastic houses… bits and pieces floating by was we continued westward.
Arriving in the port of Caleta de Velez we were given a berth number via VHF… Not able to locate the slip, we called again to ask for assistance. The dock hand was friendly and helpful. Took our lines and gave instructions for checking in etc. Jim headed to the office with the required paperwork, returning 45 minutes later a bit agitated, cancel the MIA alert. Our berth is designated for a 20 meter boat (60 feet) therefore we were required to pay for a 20 meter boat… double the cost for a boat our size. grrrr Suck it up buttercup! We are home for the night. After showers and some down time we headed to town to dinner… hopefully! A highly recommended local place quite close to the marina. We were early, 8:15 but they seated us and brought a liter of house made Sangria… tinto vino, spritzer, brandy, Triple sec, brown sugar, fruit (pineapple, peach, orange) and cloves, LOTS of cloves… 2 liters would be requested. Tapas; the prices modest, the portions plentiful.… the leftovers would make a second meal. 
Again, an early start to another long travel day. Light winds. Motoring. A brief sail. Pan-Pan alerts, 61 in a rubber boat attempting to cross. Another alter, 2 persons on a jet ski sighted far off shore…Do not approach, assist only if life and death is apparent, a rescue boat is on its way… We saw nothing but flat water and seagulls. The usual ‘plastics’ floating past. Fishing boats and airplanes.
We tied to the fuel dock as instructed at Estepona. Jim returned promptly with a complimentary bottle a white wine. Muchas Gracias! We proceeded to our nights berth. Easy in, plenty of room, enough for 3 boats. Wind at our backs. WAIT! Wind at our backs!!! nooo! yes… A less than perfect landing. Almost sideways in the slip. A(nother) ding on the hull… it took a bit of wrangling but we were able to right ourselves in the slip with a few extra hands and just a couple of expletives. Secured front and back, we showered off and hoped to give Inishnee a bath too. but, of course, an adaptor (that we don’t have) was required. It seems unbelievable that the hose fittings are not universal across the EU or even within a country! But, it is not. We have quite a collection of adaptors, none of which fit the fixtures here …. So, Inishnee’s bath will have to wait for the next port. And now, for a big shout out to the boat that came in after us! Thank you for making our docking maneuver feel less incompetent, catching your anchor on our boat kept you from colliding with the pier. You’re welcome! No damage to either boat. Dinner onboard, helado in town. Bunks.
7:30 am we were underway. Flat seas. No wind. A pan-pan for 61 individuals crossing... A few fishing boats tolling.
25 mile to go to Gibraltar.
Closing the loop for the Mediterranean for us. We can see her from here, sort of. Her cloud looms ahead, shrouding her with invisibility…. The ‘Rock’s Super Power….
We will depart from Gibraltar / La Linea Spain heading to north Africa and the Canaries...
The last image shows most of our stops while in Europe, most by sea....
25 mile to go to Gibraltar.
Closing the loop for the Mediterranean for us. We can see her from here, sort of. Her cloud looms ahead, shrouding her with invisibility…. The ‘Rock’s Super Power….
We will depart from Gibraltar / La Linea Spain heading to north Africa and the Canaries...
The last image shows most of our stops while in Europe, most by sea....
