Carriacou : Traditional Boat Building and Launch
February - March 2020
Sometimes fate hands you an extraordinary opportunity. After departing from Grenada, we traveled up island to Carriacou; Grenada’s little sister. It’s one of our favorite Caribbean Islands and we were happy to return. Tyrell Bay; pleasant, sheltered and a welcoming community. Quite updated since out last visit 2+ years ago. The ferry from Grenada now lands here at the new terminal near the new Port Control compound. There’s also a nice, new modern grocery store for provisioning; Alexis Food Store.
With friend Carrie in tow, we hired a taxi to tour the island… all 13 square miles of it. 7 miles long and 3 wide. It highest point, 956 ft above sea level.
It was first settle by the Arawaks, then the Caribs; who called it “Kayryouacou’ Land of Reefs.
France occupied the island for a while, evident in some of the village and street names. In 1763 the island was ceded to the British from the French. Soon, Irish fishermen and Scottish shipwrights arrived bringing their trade with them. African slaves were a significant part of the population throughout this later period.
Our island tour took us to Windward, a small settlement on the northwest (windward) side of the island. Nero McLawrence, 67 years old, is one of the decedents of the early Scottish boatbuilders. Nero was at the boatyard and gave us a tour. His latest (and last?) vessel was due to be launched in the coming weeks.
Nero is the owner, builder and captain of this huge 65 foot boat boat.
It will get its official name after it has been blessed and ready for launch per tradition.
It will get its official name after it has been blessed and ready for launch per tradition.
He’s been building this vessel for over 2 years. After launching the massive frame, it will be sloop rigged and powered by a 400 horsepower Cummins diesel. He plans to use it for hauling inter island cargo.
Many of it’s timbers were cut from the forests. Simple hand tools used to build it. Labor supplied by Nero, his sons and a few local boat builders who have retained the knowledge and skill of this dwindling heritage.
We made note of the time frame Nero expected to launch and continued to follow social media for ‘launch’ information. A trip back to Grenada to drop off our ‘crew’ then headed back to Carriacou in anticipation of the launch … but, our head sail thwarted our efforts to return to Carriacou, tumbling down on the deck mid voyage. The strap that holds the sail aloft had come apart. So, back to Grenada... An unbelievable turn around by Tropical Sails; they removed and repaired our sail in less than 25 hours!
So back up island we went.
Sunday March 1… Launch Day
Frank sped us toward Windward at warp speed, managing to miss the odd car or errant goat on the narrow lanes and dropped us at the boatbuilding site. We had made it! With time to spare….
The following 7+ hours were amazing… There was ALWAYS someone working on the boat in some manner.
The boat had been blessed the night before. Her flag nailed to the deck. The monstrous size and volume of ship was impressive. Since we had been here last she had received her final few coats of paint and the remaining timbers put in place. The rigging and engine would be put in place in the days / months following the launch… The empty hull would be a Herculean endeavor in itself to move.
A small party was growing. Local musicians played traditional music, pots were put on to boil for the celebration feast. Beer and rum were downed in anticipation.
Braces were nailed to the upper framework to hold poles that would be used to careen the hulk.
were positioned under the keel leading to the shore; the road it would travel to the sea.
The hull would rest on these after it was safely on its side.
A long, robust rope had been threaded through the gunnels to be uses to pull toward and into the water.
Most boats are small enough to be hauled, brute strength into the sea. This would require significantly more brawn… mechanical advantage via front end loader.
The sun continued its path across the sky, the clock slowly marking its journey. Spectators continued to arrive, a couple dozen at 10am, a few hundred by 2…
Finally, the signal was given to start the process of careening the boat, getting it on its side… The support poles on the side were steadily hacked away at the bottom…
allowing the ship to slowly list with every chop. Very controlled but seemingly precarious.
Safely resting on its side, the work continued… removing the keel supports and beefing up the ‘plank road’…
Next, a front end loader was then used to push the aft-end forward. But, the ship needed to be turned so the boat would enter the water along the planking…
The loader was repositioned and hooked to the bow. It took several brutal attempts but her nose finally turned toward the sea…
The large motor vessel, Venus, l was positioned and the tow line taken to it ready to guide it seaward.
The loader was again positioned aft… where it ran out of fuel.
Refueling was done via syphoning fuel from anchored boats, jerry jugs hauled to shore. Poured into the tank and… nothing. Several mechanics took turns cranking and wrenching and poking and tweaking… an hour passed. More beers were drank.
Then, a rumble and a spark… and the launch was back on. Venus was ready,
the loader ground forward…. a inch, two… a foot… Go, GO, Gooooo! and she did
it was incredible…. hours of waiting. Days of anticipation… Years of building.
Reality 2 made it safely into the sea at 4:23pm.
One sad note of the day. Nero, the builder, owner, captain… and dreamer took ill and had to return home mid day. Missing the berth of …Reality 2
