March - June 2020
Our long, slow passage navigating Covid 19.
Remember the old question… ‘if you were ever stranded on a desert island… who would you want to be with?’ … in this real life version… I’m glad I choose Jim… and that we choose Grenada.
Like everyone on the planet, it’s been a challenge. But Grenada’s government rose up and met it with remarkable success, so far. We thank them immensely for sheltering us and protecting all her people.
How did we get here and what’s it been like?…
we turned sail and headed south, arriving in Tyrell Bay, Carriacou, Grenada by the following evening, the Q flag flying. The next morning we cleared customs, immigration and a health check with just hours to spare. That day was the last permissible day to arrive before the impending lockdown.
What’s a Q flag? … The International Maritime Signal Flags were / are a way for ships to communicate without electronics. Each flag represents a different letter of the alphabet and some have an individual meaning.
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| ...inish... nee |
Inishnee’s name is (spelled / said) India, November, India, Sierra, Hotel, November, Echo, Echo…
Vessels are required by international law to hoist the Q / yellow flag on the right side (spreader) of the boat upon entering of the territorial waters. This is also a declaration they are free of disease. Additionally, boats are often subject to boarding and inspection before being granted permission to enter that country.
Historically the Q flag is to signal the port of an arriving ship that has not yet cleared into the country and is requesting to do so. A health officer was/ is sometimes required to visit the ship to ensure there was / is no disease on board before allowing the ship to continue to port.
The Lima (L) flag means STOP your Vessel (don’t approach). 4 squares alternating of yellow and black. It is sometimes referred to as the Yellow Jack. It is used to designate that a ship is in real Quarantine: ie; a ship with disease onboard. In the 14th century, during the Plague, ships had to remain off shore for 40 days to make sure none of the passengers were infected.
We moved from Carriacou, Grenada to Grenada (the big island) the next day and anchored for the night. The next morning we took a slip at Port Louis Marina. Our German crew suffered a few set backs with cancelled flights but finally secured the last commercial flight out of Grenada, returning to Germany via Toronto on March 26th.
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| internet image no busses, no trafic |
The first days were the worst, like most of our passages, adjusting to the new normal. Finding a balance of what to do; sleeping / napping, cooking / eating. Boat cleaning and maintenance, playing games and reading to fighting boredom. Thankfully we had unlimited internet at the marina enabling us to keep up on world events, movie streaming and surfing the www.
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| internet image Inishnee is berth at the marina in the background |
All persons must wear a mask in public…
One person from the home was able to shop for essentials (chocolate counts!) on designated days. The first shopping days were horrible with long lines, standing in the scorching sun for hours… with no guarantee there would be much on the shelves. Thank you Jim for taking on this chore! The pool at the marina was closed, understandable but regretful. Eventually equilibrium set in, tensions lessened, soothed by the resumption of beer and wine sales for home consumption.
Filling the time…
Happy Hours were spent alfresco at Cockpit Lounge. Dining at ‘Bistro Inishnee’ or occasionally the buffet “Watsinda’fridge’. All conveniently located within a few steps of the mast.
For fun we enjoyed tournaments of cribbage and scrabble in the game room (dining table) or watched movies at the ‘Den Theater’ (computer in the saloon)
We often checked out books from the library aboard Inishnee or e-reader and retired to the veranda or saloon settees for literary enlightenment.
Jim got a membership to the “Dock Side Gym’ for morning exercise, bring your own dock, exercise mat and personal trainer.
Afternoons might find us in the Lani to catch the afternoon breeze where we occasionally could watch a kite-fight for entertainment.
The maid and deck-wench were on call as needed for laundry services and general cleaning. The handy man was harder to employ but did a great job when motivated properly.
We lavished ourselves daily at the marina’s ‘Refrigerated-Air Spa’ (shower house) and reveled in the chilled air treatments and endless cascading fresh water showers. Bi-monthly manny / pedis on board with ‘Acme DIY home kit’ …
Kathy met with a therapist regularly (internet surfing) and found solace in sewing projects; nautical coasters, making masks for donating, and other handy holders for miscellaneous boat items...as well as some arts and crafts.
She also found time to write a small book that may find its way to Amazon ebooks!
A couple of looong weeks later, we were able to have 1 1/2 hours per day for exercising in public with social distancing: walks / running etc. No beaches or swimming, but a huge improvement after total confinement to homes and boats. Private vehicles permitted with one person. Dentists / medical clinics and hardwares were opened. We were able to arrange for food deliveries to the marina, ordering on line. Especially nice when we needed to transport heavy items.
The Grenadian government (Prime Minister, Health Minister, Royal Police Commissioner, etc) gave regular publicized announcements on the nations status: health, business, protocols, etc.
Followed by virtual question and answer sessions from the media
Cruise ships began arriving bringing home Grenadian nationals who worked on these ships. The workers were put in sheltered housing for 14 days quarantine to ensure they were virus free.
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| (internet image) |
Working with MAYAG (Marine & Yachting Association of Grenada) the government approved a process for foreign boats to travel here for hurricane season, which is historically north of Grenada. It is one of only a couple southern caribbean islands to open their borders to cruisers (with restrictions) allowing them to seek a safe destination out of the hurricane belt… Boats had to apply for and be granted permission via MAYAG. They were then given an arrival date, most having to travel non stop since all of the islands are closed or required a 14 day quarantine. Upon arrival, boats check in at Port Louis Marina with customs / immigration and are given a quick health screen before being permitted to anchor in a designated bay for 14 days of self quarantine. They are required to display the Q flag the entire time, after which they return to the designated pier where each crew member is required to have a Covid test … if medically cleared they are then free to choose an anchorage or marina to relocate.
Is is now possible for cleared yachts to change anchorages more of less as desired after being granted permission from the Grenadian Coast Guard.
Each week brought more easements as the Covid cases steading dropped due to social distancing and strict government enforced protocols. Beauty establishments were allowed open; Kathy’s hair stylist Stephanie, was not impressed with her homeschool beautician attempts.
Repatriation flights and private charters occurred every week or two with limited seating and luggage restrictions accompanied with hefty fees. Then, AA commercial flights started popping up online; though not government approved. We took a chance and booked two seats on a flight for early June. We scheduled Inishnee for haul-out at Grenada Marina after visiting the facility. We secured an apartment with Stephanie for the interim. we packed what we could... Then, of course, the flight was cancelled. All arrangements postponed.
We had a few visitors onboard durning our months at Port Louis Marina...The local black birds helped themselves to fresh baked bread and other tidbits. Embolden to enter the cabin while we slept, we were forced to install the screens to prevent further boardings…
Migrating swarms of termites …one cockroach (hopefully only 1)……tiny-tiny ants; all presented with an all you can eat banquet of Taro and Boric Acid.
As time wore on; over 2 months of confinement, we fudged on the social distance rules a bit and discreetly shared beverages and snacks with other boaters on our dock. Kathy did craft projects with a few of the yacht kids as well.
More business continued to open per government declarations. Shopping days increased from 3 days per week to all days. Beaches open from 5- 11 am. Take out foods at restaurants was a huge boost. Even the admiral was tired of cooking 24 - 7! We took the dinghy to Grand Anse beach and walked to Umbrella’s Beach Bar for take out. It was ALL so good… Getting out. Eating out… seeing a different shore. 
Putt-putting along in the dinghy we snagged a kite string on the motor prop. Grenada kites are pretty impressive. This one was huge. We reeled it in, hand over hand, pulling in a quarter mile of line for the nearly 6 foot bamboo frame kite. We were met at the dock by several locals who were thrilled to take possession of it… These kites are a long standing tradition in Grenada. They fly day and night, up to a half mile in the air… the strings so tight they vibrate like a guitar string playing a monotonous, somewhat vexing humming note… until they crash… Though they can be seen / heard all year, they are most prolific in the spring leading up to May Day.
We attended a protest while in Grenada against racial violence, prompted by the recent event in the US and in particular the killing of George Floyd. We took the public bus which has finally been allowed to resume business after 2 1/2 months of closure… The busses normally hold as many passengers as the conductor (door man) see fit. The new rule max of 12-14 passengers per 4 row bus including driver and conductor… We have seen as many as 23 mashed in a bus preCovid…
The protest was held in front of the US embassy in Grenada. Police and security were professional. Protesters held signs expressing heart felt messages of peace, (in)justice and civility. The crowd was called to silence for 8+ minutes. The length George was suffocated to death with a knee on his neck from an arresting officer. Speakers gave passionate speeches, not just for / about George but for the long miserable history black people have suffered under white rule …
Returning home to Inishnee, we were hot and tired. Glad we participated. Glad there were at least a few white faces in the crowd.
More masks were made. More games played. And more books read.
The first week of June the government allowed public movement from 5am - 9pm with social distancing. Eat-in dining with limited capacity. Gaming and gyms to be open. Even the pool at the marina has been allowed to open.
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| internet picture |
Traveling along at a ‘sails pace’ has been put on hold. We are still afloat though we are no longer a sailing boat. We have prepped the boat for haul-out in Grenada. Our plans to go to Trinidad are cancelled due to their borders still being closed with no plans to open or allow yachts to enter before mid July, the earliest. Per our insurance, Inishnee must be well out of the hurricane belt (Grenada has a slight risk) or we must haul her out and have a hurricane plan in place with an approved marina etc…
So. Sails are off and bagged. Engine has a new belly of oil. A boat survey was required for insurance renewal, the initial inspection recommending standing rigging (cables that keep the mast vertical) be replaced.
We have plans to replace the canvas as well but that will happen after our return to Grenada in the late fall. July 1st we will relocate to an apartment and wait on flights to the US.
We have plans to replace the canvas as well but that will happen after our return to Grenada in the late fall. July 1st we will relocate to an apartment and wait on flights to the US.
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| internet picture |
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| ... Quarantine Harbor ... well over 100 boats |
