Thursday, March 24, 2016

Martinique

March 13 - 17
Martinique 
another French Island

After making the Martinique we chose the harbor of St. Pierre. The anchorage is deep, really deep unless you can get to within 200 off shore.  It was crowded with boats as we idled past the small village.  Our friends Jim and Michelle (s/v Wind Machine) ahead of us trying to find a ‘shallow’ spot as well.  A call over the vhf from a fellow cruiser said head south  bit more near the cave and the beach and there was another shelf stable for anchoring.  We were soon there  and dropped the hooks.  We each needed 2 tried to get a proper hold.  Our windless anchor switch in need of repair meant hauling the anchor up manually… not the easiest of tasks in hot hot afternoon sun.  With a good hold the second time around Jim was ready for an anchor beverage… I am on the wagon… Having picked up a bug in Dominica I’m not feeling my best.  The decision was made to hoist the Q flat but hot check in today.  It was late afternoon and the customs if in the next village south, requiring us to launching the dinghy and a hike over a small hill.  Tomorrow would be here soon enough.  A quite evening watch the last of the beach goes enjoying the sunset and the close of the weekend.  
We were up and off by 7 am heading south to Les Anses-D’Arlet near the south end of the island, about 20 miles.  We reached in vain for a mooring balls and found 2 suitable ones near the outside of the field.  Lunch was prepared and plans discussed.  Although the moorings were same the harbor had a nasty swell tossing us about so we decided to retraced our steps a bit (10 miles) and head a bit north near the Capitol City, Bail De Fort De France to the very protected harbor of Les Trios -Ilets (the 3 islands).  Jim and Michelle had used this anchorage before and knew it provide a very secure and protected anchorage. The next few days, winds forecasted to be 20 plus.  We It was indeed protected and isolated, the only disturbance from and occasional ferry wake.  The Jim’s headed to shore to clear customs, which meant a ride on  the ferry to the capital.  Check in at the marine store via computer, get some signatures from the agent and we are in.  















My ‘bug’ was still hanging on so we had a quiet night aboard Inishnee… except for the constant cough I was now getting pretty tried of.  Ashore the next day we had breakfast of croissants and walked to the tourist information center to inquire about tours.  The very helpful english speaking attendant called every car rental on the island… It turns out its a BIG day for renting… We got the LAST meant averrable for the day!  A stop at the pharmacy for a few meds, scolding from the pharmacist (you need to go to the doctor!) and we were off to find the public bus to the next town and the rental cars.  Soon we were all snug in the compact 2 door, 4 adults and Abby, Wind Machine’s lovely canine companion.  Michelle our navigator, her Jim our driver.  They had toured here previously and new a few fun things to see.
runs of the theater 

Near Mount Pelee'
The ruins of the prison 
We went up and over hills, traveling the very modern highway our first destination St. Pierre… our first port of call 3 days ago.  It lies at the foot of Mount Pelee'.  Famous for it’s hot ash / gas volcano eruption in May of 1902… With the volcano rumbling,the governor at the time refused to evacuate not wanting to cause a fuss. The result, everyone in town (est 29,933 people) were killed except 2 people… Leon Leandre (town cobbler) and the famous,Cyparis.  Cyprus was imprisoned for murder.  His cries for help heard 3 days after he eruption… It is believed he survived due to the thick walls of the prison cells.  12 ships destroyed in the harbor.  Many ruins reamin, allowing fro glimps into the destitution.  Some photos survived and can be seen throughout the town.  
Next up, lunch then Ruum Depaz.  A distillery.   The French love their local rum nealry as much as their wine… It is sold in boxes with bladder bags for easy transport and storage.  We found a few samples to our liking and made our purchases and headed off again.  Up to Mount Pelee’.  It’s height obscured by the clouds we turned around and head over to the atlantic side of the island.  The waves were breaking and it was a lovely site as we crested each ridge then again following the shore line.  A few more stops at overlooks then a dash into the grocery to find a few fixing for dinner.  As the total was rung and I slide the plastic card Jim bags our purchases.  You have heard the saying ‘running around like a chicken with it’s head cut off?…’  Well, our rotisserie chicken planned for dinner had too.  As Jim grabbed the prepackaged bag from the checkout counter… it miraculously came to life and flew from the bag… emitting it’s juices across the counter, the floor, the cashier and myself… The chicken it self having landed on the floor next to the very astounded cashier… All eyes on us. … Time to make some new French friends!  This at least gave the other shoppers time to run to the rotisserie counter and get extra plastic bags … just in case.  The store managed guided us to the restroom to clean ourselves up.  Upon our return the cashier had clean off our purchases and was helping to re-bag our goods.  A complimentary heavy duty store bag was given and a safe measure.  We exit as quickly and quietly as we could under the circumstances… only to be hailed by the cashier chasing us through he parking lot… In the confusion I had not signed the credit card receipt… Back inside, more apologies for the mess we inadvertently made… the attendant seemed somewhat amused and at least smiled at me.  Back in the car, a few wring turns at the round about but we manages to finally get back to the harbor.  Dinner aboard… A fresh rotisserie chicken and salad.

The next morning, I conceded defeat and we headed to find the doctors office before checking out of the country for tomorrows departure and continued overtures in St. Lucia… It was early so we stopped at the bakery for croissants.  The doctors office opens … ‘around’ 8:30 am… We were second in line at 8:20… The waiting room, open air, 3 walls.  Birds and dragon flies cruising through on their morning ventures.  The room slowing filled.  I have made a list of ailments; English to French, hoping the doctor would speak at least some English but not counting on it.  Doctor Jean-Jacques Darnault arrived around 8:30.  Bonjour!  His back pack and honest to goodness doctor bag n tow.  He took a few minutes to ‘set up’… His roles include: receptionist,  secretary, nurse, billing, custodial/  janitor and of course doctor… He took the first patient as we the rest of us waited.  My turn next, sort of… we were welcomed into his office / billing department (a table with files) examination room another patient pleaded for assistance.  He welcomed them in while we sat near his desk… They there less patient patient conversed in French and was soon on there way… The doctor, much to our relief, spoke enough english. I felt I were in good hands.  He was very patient and thorough.  A half hour visit concluded, a bill of $30 euros.  “Call me if you need further assistance”… Off to the pharmacy.  The pharmasist from the previous day seemed not surprised by my return visit.  A broad smile as he took the perspiration… “ I told you” with  smile on his face… A bag full of potions and pills, we next needed to head to the city to clear customs, via ferry boat.  Jim joined us as he too needed to his exit papers.  
The rain began in earnest just before boarding the ferry.  20 minutes dock to dock.  A few blocks to the customs / marine store, then the return ferry ride home.  The dinghy’s were floating, bailing was required, the rains had poured many gallons into them.   A very wet afternoon merged into evening but with drugs pouring though my veins I was on the mend.  More sleep than I had had in a week (due to coughing) helped as well.  

We're all , Jim, Michelle and Abby, off early on our way to St. Lucia.  The winds from the south and east made for sloppy seas.  Rain threatening overhead.  7 hours beating into the waves we made St. Lucia.  We took a slip, us first time in over 3 months!  Hot shores with unlimited fresh water.  

Jim and Michelle arrive ahead of us and were happy to help with lines.  We made our line adjustments and started the process of restoring order to the boats… our habit to stow items before passages that might become projectiles or get damaged should they leave their ‘at anchor homes’.  Michelle returned with a bit of unsettling news.  Our mutual friends Dave and Donna whom we met in St. Martin, aboard S/v Enthalpy II had had and accident.  Donna had flown home as planned to Forida while Dave single handed their 52 foot Formosa to Florida.  A task he had done numerous times.  Off the coast of Puerto Rico in 10 + foot seas he was tossed and swept over board.  He was harnessed and tethered to the boat.  Incredibly!  he  was  to pull himself back aboard!  But… another wave took him back overboard and ripped him form his tether / lifejacket… Shore insight, he was able to swim and float and somehow made it  after 7 hours in the water!  He then crawled to the hotel and was rushed to the hospital… Our last report had hi in stable condition, hospitalize.  The boat has been recovered by the Coast Guard! …  Our heart felt well wishes go out to them both.  An unthinkable situation!   






Dominica : a treasure island

March 4 Finishing up on The Saints
Our last day on the Saints we did laundry, got caught up on emails and blog postings, ate gelato and croissants.  And… met Matt.  Matt was sitting outside the laundry / internet / mini bar / customs office…  He was in the middle of making a coconut palm frond hat for a tourist.  We watch and were amazed at his skills and quick work.  I commissioned a bowl from him.  No problem, I have it done is 15 minutes.  And he did.  He was quite a character.  Very energetic and charismatic.  He lives on the second street back off main.  Next to the coconut palm he harvests for his craft.  A nice chat, some dollars changed hands and we were off with our booty… and our clean laundry… 

March 5 - 13
Portsmouth, Dominica 
A most excellent adventure.  
We sailed to Dominica buddy boating with friends Eric and Anne.  A very pleasant sail.  Winds 15 -20, swells manageable, unless you had to cook of use the head… just over 20 miles.  No fish would take the bate and we narrowly avoided a encounter with a log.  whew..  As we dropped sails to enter the harbor we could see one of the local boats approaching… He offered assistance as well as tour guide services.  Several others follower suit.  

We each took mooring balls and got cleared into customs / Immigration.  Dominica has the EASIEST clearance policy we have encountered so far.  You can check in and out with one visit, stay for up to 2 weeks.  If you want to stay longer, no problem, extensions happily granted.  
The local PAYS group (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) helps cruisers with all things boating, touring and provisioning.  The locals created PAYS as a way to ensure cruisers would stay longer, feel welcome and safe.  They have a patrol boat that cruises the mooring field through out the night.  Daily they assist in all cruising and touring needs.  On Sunday nights they host a dinner / bbq for cruisers.  Kind of a meet and greet event with music after.  Very loud, very happenin’ tunes.  

Calypso's Cabin / Pirates of the Caribbean II
Our friends Michelle and Jim from  S/v Wind Machine had been here for several days already.  We invited everyone over for beverages to discuss tour options for the coming week.  Jim and Michelle met another cruising couple, Jill and Rob, and they joined us as well.    

Dominica has very rugged terrain.  The guide book claims it is the only Caribbean island that Columbus would recognize if he were to return today…The volcano is dormant but not far below the surface there is sufficient hot lava to fuel several hot springs.  It has a number of rivers and even fresh water lakes.  
With the group of 8 we were able to narrow down the numerous tour options to 3.  By teaming up and sharing the costs we saved on expenses.  
Tour 1.   Indian River / Bush Bar
We arranged for pick up from each of our respective boats and were on shore and ready by 9 am.  Dominica has National Park Entrance fees separate from the tour costs.  Our guide; Jerome.  We set off up the Indian River, Jerome manning the oars.  No motors of ANY kind allowed.  Within minutes we were surrounded by dense vegetation, Jerome referencing names and botanical information as we floated along.  Bloodwood trees, the sap oozes a blood red color and was formerly used as a dye.  Flowers, ferns, coconut palms. Shore birds, mullets, crabs.  A jog to port and we rowed up a small branch of the main river.  A small shack perched a few feet above the mangroves, home of the witch Calypso from Pirates of the Caribbean II.  Our guide company Cobra has rebuilt the shack and maintained it so tourists can see the set for themselves.  The gnarly old mangroves trees make a stunning surroundings for the cabin.

Continuing down the main branch of the river,  we continued sighting many birds and  shore creatures.  The water is murky and brackish. Light penetrates through in a few places casting sun dogs onto the gently flowing waters.  The tour pauses at a bend in the river at the Bush Bar where we were treated to a small, jungly garden of lush plants.  The coconut man, aka Augustus, has fresh, young coconut for sampling.  First he hacks away at the very hard outer shell with his machete… all fingers still intact !  Then skillfully, a small nip in one side and fresh, cool coconut water for those contributing a couple bucks.  After we emptied the coconuts of their liquid, he then hacked some more and we ate the flesh.  These we very young coconuts and the insides were tender, almost pulp like.  Augustus then had us follow him a few steps to the coconut palm were he climbed to the very tip top (for each tour group!).  No rope of harnesses.  Just brute strength and agile hands and feet.  Upon his return to solid footing he then did a hand stand and ‘walked’ a few yards.   The calluses on his hands and feet proof he has spent years performing these tasks for onlookers.  His age ? … 40 something?… 
Return trip; gently drifting down with the tide.  Jerome directing our progress and rowing as needed. We returned to the dock, payed our tour fees and were shuttled back to our boats.  
Tonight we all attended the PAYS bbq.  Chicken, pork or fish.  Salad and rice.  All the rum punch you could drink followed by dancing … even MY Jim danced !
A really great day.

Tour 2   Island Adventure Tour, Middleham Falls and Tia’s Hot Sulfur Springs.   
We were picked up a 8 am.  A long day ahead of us.  Danny our tour guide today.  We wove through many small towns and villages.  Went up and over mountain ridges, gorges, rivers and along the coastline.  In August of last year (2015) the island received unprecedented rain.  The torrents of water building as it made it’s way into the ravines and valleys heading seaward.  The floods took out a number of bridges, inundated towns and villages along its path and nearly buried some seaside communities.  Anything in its path: cars, homes, businesses were damaged or destroyed.  It took a couple of months to put in bypass bridges causing travelers to take the  l  o  n  g  way around the island to get to the city.  Several businesses were not able to cope with the losses and have closed.  A rum distillery and coconut factory among them.  Hundreds of jobs lost.  Devastating families and drastically changing the communities earnings.  
We continued on, turning up from the sea shore and going up and up and up.  The brakes of the van treating us to wafts of overheating pads…  No problem says Danny… they were just replaced… 
Having driven to the limits of the navigable road, we then set off on foot.  The air was already quite a bit cooler and thinner at the start up the trail…  We began by walking up through the canopy of the jungle, climbing up spiderweb root structures, getting our footing between the maze under our feet.  Up, up and up… the trail turned to log steps intermixed with rocks and roots.  Up and down, through streams and more climbing.  … We came upon the 20 more minutes to the falls sign, now we needed to go down.  And down some more.  Then up and down and switch backs.  Finally we could hear the falls and catch glimpses of it through the undercarriage.  More down and around… then finally.  The magnificent Middleham Falls.   Anne and Eric had already taken the plunge into the very cool mountain pool the falls descend to.  We caught our breath and maneuvered between boulders to make the last few yards to the pool… directly below the falls.   Immediately it was apparent why we had been hearing shrieks coming from ahead as we closed in on the falls. The water was very, VERY cold!   Those brave enough swam with great effort up and under the falling cascade of water.  It was invigorating… Yes, I even braved the icy waters and took the plunge.  We played in the pool till our teeth chattered (not long), then climbed back to the platform installed by the Park staff.  We rested, had a snack. Then began the climb back up the switchback trail to the top of the mountain ridge and began our decent.  The return trip assisted by gravity was much faster.  
We stopped for a late lunch featuring local cuisine.  Goat curry, chicken or fish.  We all ate our fill sitting perched above a river gorge.  Then off again and onto the hot suffer springs.  More mountain passes, steep ascents and switch backs.   The springs were a perfect end to the long arduous climb we had all successfully completed.  After getting a thorough soaking in hot and hotter pools we had a fresh water rinse.  All of us are assuredly salt free after sooo much fresh water activity.  
The return trip brought us back over the same terrain and streets as the morning route.  Because of the August storm of last year that completely wipe out numerous bridges, many roads became dangerous to use. Red and white tape still is strung along sections of washout, a few barrels to further detour you from cutting the corner too close.  With some of the turns being quite sharp, it was very distressing to look at the road ahead and see the earth below the upcoming switchback eroded, pavement still partially in place.  … yet the cars, trucks, etc. still use this one and only road around the island.  When the floods came and the bridges were destroyed, it essentially locked in pockets of communities … A few individuals with larger boats were able to get supplies to theses communities in the months following the disaster, making a substantial profit in the process… according to Danny.   We put in a 11 hour day today… and it was awesome!

Tour 3 Island tour, Spanny Falls and  Kalinago (Carib) Village
We were met prompt at 8 am for our shuttle to shore, the rest of our group already aboard.  We wove our way east and north; mountain valleys, switch backs, ridges and coastline.  Danny our guide and driver again today had many interesting stops.  The ruins of a coconut roasting operation which we walked around and got sense of the process.  Danny foraged for a ripe coconut and using a stone cracked it open and spoke of the various parts and their uses. As we continued, Danny pointed out the many different crops along the drive, some gardens using the roadside for planting  things such as Cassava, eggplant, bananas, plantains, breadfruit…. and many more varieties.  

We continued on till we arrived at Spanny Falls, on private property.  The trail was easy to follow, Danny again stopping to point out and give samples of local produce including raw coffee beans.  Pop open the berry and suck on the seeds, then discard them.  We also tried raw fresh cocoa.  Same procedure as coffee.  Cut open the pod and such the thin flesh off the seed which is discarded.  The trail continued to a massive wall of ferns and foliage in which the mountain runoff drains over the side and keeps everything wet and dripping.  Around the corner and down the short but steep steps and the first of 2 falls appears.  A pool at the bottom to swim in.  The more adventurous of the group crossed the boulders of the river and climbed nearly straight up the opposite side of the wall, a rope secured tree to vine for assistance.  Swimming before the return trip.  With group back together, it was time to continue on with the journey.  

We made a stop at rasta Ronald’s roadside stand.  He had just roasted some coffee beans which we quick snatched up.  Lots of remarkable fruits, purple bananas that will turn red-orange when ripe (Sunday), guava, papaya, mango, pineapple, cabbage, pigeon peas… and plenty more.  Ronald also makes a coconut candy, roasted with ginger and lightly sweetened.    

Next, a late lunch overlooking the coast from a cafe perched on a cliff.  Fish (barracuda), smoked, spicy or baked chicken the options.  Sides included.  Lunch was followed with a local fruit sampling.  Guava, melon, cherries, banana and sugar cane.  

Back on the road, we stopped near the Carib / Kalinago Indian Territory.  The Kalinago people were the first to settle here, but were overcome by the fierce Caribs.  Today they are a peaceful people, known for their crafts including basket weaving, coconut shell ornaments: bird houses and carvings among the popular items sold.  The 8 off us all found wonderful treasures to return home with.  The sun was beginning its decent and we had spent nearly of our E.C.’s… the local money; Eastern Caribbean dollars.   The ride home circled around and intersected with our morning route.  Stunning coast line, cliffs drowning in the golden hour light and of course back over the washed out bridges and crumbling roads still in need of attention form the storm of last year.  Danny made a few unscheduled stops as we woven our way back… collecting local samples of flowers and plants creating a HUGE bouquet.  Back in Portsmouth, we divvied  up the foliage, gathered our purchases and were shuttled home.  Another spectacular experience on Dominica!  

Shopping at the fish and fresh market, dinner ashore and goodbyes…
Back to being live aboard’s.  Having seen a good deal of the natural habit the island has to offer we exchanged our tourist status back to cruisers and got back to living aboard.  The weather called for squalls and high winds the next few days so we were all staying put.  Several of us headed to shore early to hit the market and get provisions.  The sky was heavy with impending rain which opened fully on us as we disembarked the dinghy.  Rain coats and hats were little protection from the downpour.  Our ‘dry’ bags turned our to be not so dry, very damp bags.  Next time we use the heavy duty water proof ones.  At the fish market we made a purchase of a mahimahi for tomorrow night potluck, the 8 of us getting together before we head off in different directions.  We received a few tips on filleting from the locals then off to find a public bus to the supermarket.  $1.50 EC for a oneway ride pp… U.S. = 40 cents.  We made a few our purchases among the sparse selection then caught a bus back to the docks.   We purchased some fresh veggies and fruits at the local produce stands then off for home.  Thoroughly soaked!  The rains continued on and off all day the winds whistling through the rigging.  Several boats drug anchor but the PAYS guys were out immediately helping to rescue boats and minimize damage.  Only one collision, a French boat hit a catamaran creating minor damage, their anchors entangled; the PAYS guys again to the rescue.  A dinghy went for a solitary romp but was retrieved by another cruiser.  All this Harbor Cinema right out our back door.  









Jim borrowed Wind Machines hooka so he could replace the zinc on our prop shaft.  What’s a hooka?  In this case it’s device which allows a person to breath underwater without scuba gear.  Jim and Michelle made their hooka but they are sold commercially.  They use their air compressor attached to a hose attached to a regulator… wha la! 
Electrolysis happens naturally in water… more so in salt water.  All metals are susceptible.  Zinc is used as a sacrificial metal there by protecting the good stuff.  It is attached to different parts of a boats hull and is slowly eaten away by this process.  When sufficient erosion occur the zinc is replaced.  
We needed water so we called PAYS = Seabird = Jesse who is in charge of the water buoy.   Jesse wasn't available till late afternoon… he’d been up till the wee hours of the morning enjoying Friday night …  He met us at the mooring buoy, turned the picket on and we were all set.  The water buoy is a large float a few hundred yards off shore, 15 feet of water.  There is no proper dock for cruising boats to get to so this is their solution.  They have a submerged water line from shore running to the water buoy attached to a long hose.  
  
We met our cruising friends ashore with fixings for a potluck.  Wind Machine shared chart info with us all.  Michelle and Jim have traveled these waters many years and are a wealth of knowledge.  The mahimahi was put to the grill and we all ate our fill of fish and sides.  

Michelle and Jim (s/v WindMachine) will continue south as far as St. Lucia then turn back north for hurricane season.  
Jill and Rob (s/v Shakin the Dust) will continue north enroute to Texas, their home state.  
Anne and Eric (s/v Kahuli) heading north as well.  They plan to sail to Florida then prep their boat for overland transport to Washington State their home.  

I picked up a cold / flu bug… Never left the boat for 2 1/2 days… It rain nearly the entire time so I guess I didn't miss much.  Our final night in Dominica we were treated to another green flash!  This time there was no mistaking it.  It was quite vibrant.  To bed early to be ready for a long days sail tomorrow.  Up at 5am… Jim took note of our neighbors who had anchored their boat in front of us the previous afternoon… they were now behind us!  Very thankful they didn't hit us while dragging during the night.
We have gotten so good at fishing we don't even need a rod and reel any more.  The fish just fly in th boat while we are sleeping.  Unfortunately they are dried up and stinky by the time we find them, sometimes between our toes as we enter the cockpit (Jim) .. squishing eggs all over the floor…  not so nice first thing in the morning.


March 13
Today is my anniversary!  1 year ago today I retired.  It’s hard to believe all the fantastic things that have happened this past 12 months.  
I was feeling well enough today to sit topside.  Rain threatened on and off for the 55 + miles to Martinique.  We are traveling with Jim and Michelle as far as St. Lucia where they will turn back north.  Mother Nature was in a mood today and presented us with a double rainbow, very vibrant… then !  not one, but TWO whales !!! One off the starboard side, the other off port.  I think they were humpbacks but we have not had enough experience with whales… yet


We made St. Pierre, Martinique just after 3:30 PM…








































Friday, March 4, 2016

Guadalupe and the Saints

Guadalupe
Feb 29 - March 2
 Our sail to Guadalupe was just about perfect.  Good wind, not too much heel.  Fish on, barracuda back to the sea then a tuna!  It put up a good fight but we are learning some tricks and we managed to get dinner on board!  A very nice size, 10 pounds +/- . Jim took care of the filet etc on the foredeck before it went in the fridge.  Our dry spell is over.  

We made the anchorage of Deshaies  pronounced Day-ay = French … ?  We set the hook, Jim cleared us into customs etc and we were ready for dinner.  Anne and Eric joined us.  Fish is not my thing but this tune was fantastic.  We had a side is saluted christophene with onion and carrots.  

The morning brought rain which continued on and off through out the day.  We were feeling a bit lazy and sat at a cafe and enjoyed the view while sipping expresso and ice coffee.  The cafe was directly on the waterfront allowing for a great harbor views… including todays Harbor Cinema.  I had read that if a cruising boat needed water there is a    l  o  n  g   hose that can be taken to the boat and filled, there is nowhere for cruisers to tie to a dock on shore.  As we sat sipping a catamaran demonstrated how it’s done.  They had to pull very close to shore and anchor, too close for the depths needed for our boat.  On shore the water hose was made ready and a dinghy took the hose to the cat.  They had to reposition closer since the line was just a bit shy of their boat.  After the hose was aboard the filling commenced, a very slow process…  
We strolled the very picturesque little town, two blocks wide.  4 maybe 5 long.  A river running to the sea on the edge of town.  If you walk (stumble)  up (in)  the river for 2 hours… there is a waterfall… Our friends Anne and Eric attempted the journey and after a considerable time they gave up and returned to town.  

We ducked into a wine store during one of the downpours.  Found a nice box of French wine to depart with as well as a sampling of a few local rums.  The French love the local rums soooo much it too is sold in boxes and sent to France.  Sixes from 1 -2 liters to 5 liters…. wine and rum.  
Continuing on our walk we happened upon a local selling his catch from his pickup bed.  A mahimahi.  quite large.  He de-finned, beheaded and sawed the fish into sections as we watched.  Scales to weigh and price the purchase in the bed of the truck.  It was tempting to purchase but our fridge still has a good portion of tuna to consume so we took a pass.  
Up on the hillier looking town is the cemetery.  Built above ground in the islands, this one appears to cling to the side of the hill.  

The morning of our departure, Lizzi brought us our preordered croissants to the boat.  Toasty warm, chocolate and plain.  The French know how to do pastries!  Lizzie’s other boat services include, laundry, trash removal, fruit and vegetable provisioning, wines and rums as well as local guide for hiking etc.  She is a very ambitious young lady, 

Off to Iles Des Saints ( The Saints)
The coast of Guadalupe is around 30 miles long.  Guadalupe is actually two islands very close together.  The 2 sides look a bit like a butterfly with open wings.  


The Saints.  
March 2 - 5
There are several islands close together which are considered the Saints.  They are part of Guadalupe. French Islands.  Very picturesque.  Camera needs to really at every corner.   There is a lot of tourist about coming and going from Guadalupe veil the ferrys.  The clipper ship Star Clipper comes in with 200+ passengers once every 2 weeks.  There are lots of unique items to purchase from very fashionable clothing,  souvenirs and wonderful french cuisine and of course hot fresh bread and croissants.  Chocolate is de-lish!

Jim, Anne and Eric climbed to the highest point of the island and back in just over 2 hot sweaty hours.   I opted for ice coffee at the sea side cafe and some shopping… a few great purchases.  Cathy Regnier is a local french water color painter.  She paints local scenes and sells the originals or prints.  We found a lovely beach fishing scene to ad to our newly started collection.  

The main street which follows the beach for a mile or so is filled with cafes, shops, groceries and fresh food stalls.  Many lovely homes / cottages refurbished to suit modern needs.  Most of the shops here open early, by 8am, and close for lunch… noon till ? … restaurants usually close as well and do not open till at least dark… 7pm…. We are usually tucked in safe by 6:30 so we have not seen the night life here.  
The language barrier is a bit daunting.  Try as best I can the proprietors just give me a bewildered looks when I try to ask for even the simplest things… One gal give me a lovely smile and said, “ why don't you just try english…”  oh well.  

We are checking in and out of Ilse de Staints again…. the weather report said stay put unless you are a masochist.  So we are doing laundry… an all day task with 2 washers and the lunch closing intermission… Internet…. and some more exploring.  





















Montserrat ... and the active volacno

Montserrat 
feb 27 / 29

Our late afternoon arrival put us ashore after 5.  Jim cleared us in to the country and we went to meet other boat friends Eric and Anne.  Anne and Eric own a Kelly Peterson 46 foot sailboat; Kahuli.   When asked what Kahuli means, Anne said it’s Hawaiian for money pit… 
seriously, it means tree snail in Hawaiian.   The name came with the boat and they have decided keep the name for now.  We made plans to tour with them in the morning to see the volcano area.  Cecil our guide.

9am.  We met up with Cecil and his young nephew as he was loading the other passengers into his mini van.  A family of 4 from Belgium.  One, two, three …. eight, nine, ten.  Ten of us in his mini van… an island mini van.  We managed to fit and were mostly comfortable.  

The island of Montserrat has an active volcano, Soufriere Hills,  erupting since 1995.  It is an ash volcano emitting hot, suffocating ash as opposed to lava.  A major eruption in 1997 led to the evacuation of most of the islanders and eventual destruction of the capital town, Plymouth.   The southern half of the island uninhabitable. The population went from 11,000 to todays 5,000.  Many inhabitants relocated permanently.  The dome of the volcano collapsed in 2003.  Another eruption in 2006 followed by the biggest in 2010. There is an exclusion zone in much of the southern half of the island, although a small portion is open to day visits (tours) and some ash mining.  The volcanic ash that fell and buried everything in its path is now exported to other islands for it’s rich nutrient content for agriculture.  

Cecil guided us up and over the very steep mountain peaks and switch backs, narrating as we went.  We made a quick stop at Runaway Ghaut were we all took a sip from the runoff of a mountain spring ensuring we would all return to Monserrat someday… according to legend.  We went to the overlook at the observatory many miles from the crater which is still spewing ash and gasses making it impossible to see the actual rim.  We continued down and through the Belham River crossing, warnings of mudflows following heavy rains along the road side.  The air had the telltale sent of sulfur (rotten eggs).  We were able to walk around and through several buildings that were abandoned.  Many had items laying about as though the inhabitants would be back to continue with their lives.  The ash was many feet thick is some places.  Chairs and tables buried to their seats.  Swimming pools filled with ash now large green spaces.  The destruction immense. 

Many lost everything.  Montserrat is a British Colony.  When the island was evacuated Britain issued all inhabitants a British passport.  A small consolation for their losses.  Living in the shadow of a volcano, especially an active one is not easy.  The new capital is in the north, Little Bay.  Nearly everything there is new since it was only a small blip on their map with few inhabitants.  Little Bay is situated on the very steep slopes of the north east side.  A small semi protected harbor for ship traffic.  There are plans to build a break wall making the harbor more hospitable to cruisers as well as ferry traffic and supply ships.  

The tour concluded, we got a bite to eat at one of the few places open on a Sunday.  Many of the islands still respect the day as family time as well worship.  The special, ribs and chicken with Sunday dinner sides.  Veggies, salad, rice.  
Next up … cricket!  We walked up to the athletic field and watch the teams warm up.  None of us had any clue about how the game is played.  The fans were quite vocal, shouting in the local dialect which was described by Cecil as broken english.  The ending of words dropped and the rest spoken very, VERY quickly.  We considered asking about the rules and meanings of some of the plays but 1) it’s cricket…. it can’t be explained   2) broken english is beyond our comprehension.  Having watched over an hour with one team still at bat, we decided to leave.  As it turned out the ‘inning’ was over and we made our exit without distracting the crowd too much.  

Anne and Eric joined us for happy hour aboard Inishnee.  We chatted boating and cruising, family and life.  Then, made plans to sail to Guadalupe tomorrow.