SV Inishnee: May 2018

Cappadocia, Turkey Excursion

May 2018

mysterious

enchanting

dramatic

The leading tourist attraction in Turkey, is the area known as Cappadocia. Millions of years in the making, from numerous volcanic eruptions, then natural erosion. The unique and unmistakable landscape we were to visit. The South Dakota Badlands meets the Flintstones; Dr. Seuss' the architect.

Cappadocia, originally Katpatuk, means land of beautiful horses… Hatti peoples being the first to inhabit the area.

It is best known for it’s Fairy Chimneys; the predominate feature. Made of soft Tufa (sandstone) with basalt caps. These natural formations have been inhabited since prehistoric times, the

We secured transport from a local tour company. 3 days, 2 nights.

… It would take a day to get there; 13 1/2 hours. One day to explore; with the tour company. Then another day to return to Kemer.

We left Kemer at 4:15 am, our driver meeting us at the marina gate. We then picked up 3 other passengers and continued to the meeting point and the ‘big’ bus for further transport on to Cappadocia. We were the last 5 on the big bus and last to ‘choose’ seats. All in the back in the most uncomfortable seat possible. But, our tour director came to our rescue and after reseating a few ‘singles’ together, we had better seats, and other than the driver and tour director… the best seats! whew…

We stopped every 2+ hours for bathroom rest breaks. Breakfast on your own at a roadside restaurant. Of the 4 meals included in the tour package lunch and all beverages were extra. The tour director claimed there would be no other options for lunch / food unless we ate with the group and prepaid 12 dollars each! We inquired about the possibly of a market… non around and NO other restaurants either … hmmm. So we anti'd up; for day one. We would discover later that there was indeed a market next door… Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me… The lunch was nice however… but way over priced. So much so that when the director paid the bill she was ‘reimbursed’ a hefty profit (a recurring theme) … This is how she makes her money, I get that … the trip was ridiculously inexpensive!… but not being truthful gets my goat…

workers camp along the highway
possibly for field hands / agriculture

Turkey is 80 percent mountains. We would traverse many of the steep and majestic ranges before reaching our goal. The landscape changes dramatically as we approached the plateau of the Cappadocia area.

Flat fertile plains full of pastures and fields for agriculture.

Our first official “tour’ stop would be the Mevlana Museum and Mausoleum of the Whirling Dervishes.

The museum was a former training center for an order of Whirling Dervish… our education on the ‘Dervishes' would be continue later with a recreation of a Sema, the Whirling Dervish ceremony.

There are 7 parts to the deeply religious ceremony. Each part bringing the whirler closer to ‘nirvana”, the mystic journey to ascension: “Mirac” in Turkish. The whirling man, dervish, hopes to enter a state of being one with the earth and its revolutions and in turn its creator… through very practiced and mesmerizing repeated spins…musicians play instruments and sing / chant durning the ceremony. This continues for nearly an hour until the ceremony is concluded with a reading from the Quran.

We continued our travels taking us to an underground city…One of several in this remarkable area. These underground cites, were comprised of hundred of rooms with connecting tunnels. At strategic locations the inhabitants could roll a millstone like bolt stone to prevent intruders form entering. The cites had enough stores to keep them alive and supplied for one year in the event of an invasion… They had stables for animals located on the first floors… The largest of these cities had 8 levels with intersecting corridors and rooms. All of these cities had kitchens with stoves, dinning areas and bedrooms, chapels and wineries…. some areas were large and airy, they had ventilation shafts throughout, some were conining and claustrophobic. All, a mystifying and industrious use of space…

Exiting the city gate / tunnel we are caught in a flurry of mesmerizing and melodic female voices seemingly coming from dozens of dancing dolls that are being vigorously shaken by these women; vying for our attention in hopes of luring us in for a purchase… Apparently hand made, 2 for 10 TL… I’ll repeat; 2 for $2.50 US dollars… !!! With so many women pleading for our liras… Jim thought it best to let chance decide… He grabbed Kathy by the shoulds, had her shut her eyes and spun her around a few times… then point to the lucky women we would make a purchase from… needless to say, the other hopefuls were disappointed, but seemed to enjoy our antics at least.

Our hotel was modern. The food abundant. The rooms with ensuite heads and single beds… all catered to the tour group crowds.

After a quiet nights sleep we were ready to take on Cappadocia! Our driver and guide took us to one of the many overlook’s… the sky threatening rain with the chilling wind sent most travelers back to the bus before the allotted time was met.

Our guide thought it best to then go to a warmer venue… One of the many pottery shops. Were given a demonstration on wheel throwing (clay) and glazing techniques. Then we were allowed as much time as we wanted to purchase pottery…ahhh!

just another couple of lovers ...

Back on the bus we were driven to ‘Love Valley’… The first of the real Fairy Chimneys that make Cappadocia famous.

The local name for this valley is… penis valley… with little imagination the viewer gets a very vivid look at these stone structures and readily understands both meanings… All along the valley walls are ‘caves’. The valley floor supports the phallic stones. Some with caves carved in the softer sandstone towers.

Kathy as able to score a few souvenirs at the gift shop. Bowls made from onyx, one of the abundant mineral rocks found here…

Back to the Park Tour… we went to the ‘open air’ museum of Zelve, inhabited until 1952 by turkish muslims. We were given an hour to explore. The area has many caves whose main purpose was religious. Dozens of chapels with remarkable frescos in various states of decay or refurbishment…

Another stop allowed us to venture through an old village, now abandoned. We walked in and among numerous caves built into the stone monoliths… Door ways and windows. Alleys and tunnels. Each unique. Each mind boggling. These people were ever so resourceful… making something from nothing… or so it seems.

We were then scurried off to lunch. A buffet for tour companies … Kathy had squired away a some bread, fruit and jams from breakfast.. so we passed on the buffet option… as did many from our tour.

We then were taken to a jewelry and gem shop… rare stones made into fine wearables and more. We were ushered through the side door into the workshop were they demonstrated the art of cutting stone with a lathe and polishing it smooth as glass … Inside the sales room, luckily for us being part of the tour, were were given a discount! The prices, though quoted in euros would be converted directly to liras… a savings of 400 percent! We did not find anything to our liking though we did notice that they made and sold onyx bowls… like the ones I had bought earlier that day… *my purchase for a lot less $$… one of the rare times when the middle man had the better deal…

Next stop. A functioning cave village. We wandered around and met a lovely lady who does indeed live in one of the many homes carved into the stone fortress. She spoke some english and we were welcomed into her home… A rare glimpse. We found it homey and bright. Modestly furnished. Electricity and wood heating. A small galley like kitchen. A old but functioning refrigerator. Living and bed rooms… An amazing porch! With views so stunning one can almost imagine living here. Then you realize that all goods must be lugged up the side of the stone colossal. And winters are real and cold and long … and dark… give be a boat, on the sea, in the tropics please….

Our (almost) last stop of the day was to n over look of the larger cave city. Many caves had been converted with windows and modern amenities… we assume plumbing and the like. Spectacular views made picturesque with the addition of flocks of pigeons swooping up and around the valley between the viewer and the stone village…

Then back to the hotel… with one quick stop at the nut and tea shop…. Jim ducked off the bus and up the street to the market returning with a nice local bottle of wine… the same cost as small bag of nuts… More ‘reimbursement’ between the tour director and the shop and we were officially on our way to the hotel. Buffet dinner follow by the wine and nuts in our cozy room. Outside beverages not allowed in the public areas…

We were up early the next morning and ready for more of Cappadocia… but, the park tour was over as of last night… but, as consolation… we were taken to a leather factory were we were able to see a fashion show. The last of the ‘required’ tour stops ??? … Live models on a real runway wearing the latest leather jackets of sheep skin… very soft and very pricey… no one from the tour would be dazzling their friends back home with Turkish leather…

We later found out that the Turkish government requires, at least some tour companies, to make stops at designated businesses…. The tour company sells the tour very cheaply, the tour guides must then make their money by ‘selling’ the wonderful idea of making a purchase at these locations so they can collect a portion of the sales… their income. Had we known this from the start it would have made the shop stops more palatable…

We knew the shopping was over when the tour guide, seated directly in front of us, positioned her travel pillow around her neck and settled in for a good rest. Lunch at the same restaurant from 2 days ago…

Another stop at a purpose built Han… During the times of the silk road migrations. Caravans or travelers and traders needed a place to stay for the night, an inn. The Hans served this purpose. Spaced every 30 or so kilometers, the distance one could travel in a day with his load of silk and spices. The road we have been traveling on is part of this old route. The inn we stopped at is a tourist attraction. Tea and snacks. A few souvenirs and toilets; for a couple of TR… Turkish lira…