Cyprus
2018
We made it through a winter / spring in Cyprus.
Lots of adventures and lots and LOTS of time in one place.
We got to know the island pretty well, taking side trips every so often. Visitors coming and going. Seasons changing.
With spring came our first visitors, Carrie and Lauren… their adventures are captured in the last blog.
After their departure we had a couple weeks to settle in to winter on Cyprus. Chilly but very doable with our portable heater. We frequented our favorite restaurants often to breakup the monotony of staying put so long… a total of 6 months for Inishnee, crew 4 months… having gone back to the US for the holidays.
Our German family, the Holzloehner’s, came for 1 week. Dirk and Heika took an apartment near the old castle close to the marina while Jan stayed aboard. We ate breakfast together daily then explored together, some familiar some new. They rented a car, Jan the designated driver. A day in Nicosia with an afternoon exploring the occupied Turkish side of the capitol city. A few bargains made their way into the packs for home.
We happened down a side street bordering the Cyprus side green zone. The military (both sides respectively) have numerous outposts along the entire boarder with ‘no mans land” between governed by the UN. A nice chat with the young man with a very big gun… allowed pictures of the bunker… and the cat, but not the buildings…* it’s hard to crop sometimes 
Historic ruins with plenty of old rocks near Paphos for the guys while the girls stimulated the economy amongst the shop keepers in town.
The Holzloehner's took a day on their own through the mountains; waterfalls, vineyards and orchards. The snow melt was ushering in the spring flowers.
An afternoon in Larnaca. The ‘cat’ mosque and waterfront, the focus of our time there.
Evenings were enjoyed with libations of wine, beer, good food; on board and dining out. Lively conversations of families and sailing filled the hours into the wee hours each night.
One of the final evenings we decided to splurge and eat at the highly recommended “fish restaurant” behind the castle…. No reservations, it was still the slow season and a week night so we had no trouble acquiring a seat fro the 5 of us, only one other table occupied.
No menu… it’s the catch of the day. We were offered a look in the (petite) kitchen to see the days offering. Clear as mud. The fish of the mediterranean are unfamiliar to us. Taking our seats, we though it best to inquire what the meal would entail and the price…
‘5 of you… 180 euros…. !!!! Kathy blurts out… “for fish? … I’m out!’… ooops, sorry gang’ … she doesn't eat much fish and is NOT paying those prices for a dinner she's not ABSOLUTELY in love with…
The rest of the group… ‘so what’s that include?’… ‘’full dinner, salad, fish, fried potatoes (french fries)… ‘’
Group response… ‘ummh, is there another option, menu? …. beef, chicken?’
Proprietor… Standing stern points to the door…’go next door!’ You try over there…’
Okaaay. We stood up and went in the direction of the previously mentioned door.
So. 2 doors down we reviewed the menu on the door … Meat, fish, vegetables…. affordable! we’re in.
The owner politely sat us in the quaint old building and handed us menus. We ordered beverages followed by dinners. Jim lamb, Kathy chicken and Heika moussaka. Dirk and Jan shard the fish ‘meze’. A ‘meze’ is popular on nearly every menu we have encountered in Crete (Greece) and Cyprus. It’s a HUGE meal of unending meats of your choice. Salad and french fries to accompany the meal. Usually around 15-20 euros per person but can be shared. It’s a LOT of food for one person! Impossible to leave hungry… We all ate our fill… for less than half the price next door. And… we were treated with an after dinner sweet served free of charge; common in Crete and Greece as well.
Jan and Dirk took the dinghy for ride out to Lady’s Mile; named after a military generals horse. The general would often ride Lady down the beach that spans several kilometers.
Kathy and Heika strung beads and shared stories. They made several bracelets and anklets from the bead and seed collection aboard Inishnee. Jim was coaxed into the fun too. He drilled holes in several beach glass pieces Kathy had been collecting throughout the voyage. New adornments for the female crew of Inishnee and Aloha; The Holzloehner’s Bavaria….
The week flew by and we said our goodbyes.
Life aboard returned to a quiet, monotonous stretch… for a short time
Luckily, crew Inishnee had back up plans… Several months ago we had received a ‘ding’ of our phone stating ‘low air fare’ for the next few hours… so, we were off to Bulgaria. *see Bulgaria blog post
and then… we were home again. In time for Easter. Greek Orthodox Easter to be specific; which occurred the weekend after Easter in the US. Easter is a several day event like in the US but … different. Holy Thursday and Holy Friday quite religious services. Most business open. Holy Saturday the same. However, Holy Saturday night begins the religious celebrations, near midnight. A mass is held at the local churches followed by a bonfire to burn Judas in effigy. *there have been notices on-line and in the paper asking people to hide their wooden ‘things’ so they wouldn't be used inadvertently for the big bonfires…
The next few weeks took on a renewed interest for boat projects and provisioning. Our late night return to Cyprus meant there were no busses. The taxi wanted 55plus euros for 2 people for the 45 minute ride to the marina… Being resourceful, we surfed the net and found a car rental for 30 pounds (a British company operating in Cyprus)… which is the equivalent of 42 US dollars… for one week, which turned into 3 weeks with renewal. No brainer.
We made good use of the car stocking up an heavy stuff, laundry to the launderette, and several trips to the home improvement store. And touring just a bit.
We also spent an afternoon back in Paphos and toured the Archaeological Site of Kato Pafos… a ancient ruins complex bordering the city at the sea. An impressive site featuring dozens of floor mosaics. The largest, “the House of Dionysos’, has an enclosed structure with walkways several feet above the original flooring.
Also, the remnants of a Frankish Period castle that was destroy just 23 years after its construction by an earthquake. Many columns and pillars are strewn about the area, too many to preserve / reconstruct it seems.
Beenie and Denis
What dear friends they have become over our time in Cyprus. From the moment we knocked on their hull, s/v Lady Kate where they welcomed us aboard to many afternoons sharing dinners and conversations. Originally from Ireland… now you know they are good people… They winter in Cyprus with short forays back to Ireland and farther north to Norway to their summer home s/v Narnia… They very graciously offered to take us on an excursion into ‘occupied Cyprus’, northern eastern territory. … also known as The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus (TRNC). 
First impressions… lots of open space. A bit of agriculture but not nearly as much as the southern side cultivates. Lots and LOTS of buildings under construction… but seemingly abandoned. As we closed in on the city of Famagusta, we noticed the many acres of the nearby mountainside was decorated with a large (white stone?) Turkish flag… The occupied Cyrus Turkish Flag is the reverse of the Turkish country flag; red flag with white star and crescent moon. We continued on to the green zone where we parked and headed to the beach.
The once famous and lively beach resort town is now barbwire fences, police outposts and bombed out buildings… miles and miles of patrolled acreage. Seems a shame.
On to the next village. A nice harbor and a small castle. Great views. forgotten name…
Lunch stop. Salamis Ruins. Sitting near the sea, Beenie unpacked our picnic lunch. Cheese. Bread. Fruit. Short bread cookies and Beenie’s Boat Pudding! what an unexpected treat… Even a glass of chilled white wine. Behind us, the partially reconstructed ruins of an old city. 11th century BC old. Dozens of headless marble statues greet you as you descend into the site which encompassed a gymnasium and baths, Theatre, Basilica and even a Roman 2 story Villa… now in much disarray. Archeologist have determined there was a meeting place and market. A temple dedicated to Zeus and even public baths, pools. sweating rooms and latrines. Quite complex.
The day continued to slip away from us so we continued on heading north and west to nearly the tip of the peninsula. Rugged country. Sparsely populated. Villages every 20-30 kilometers…. Shepard's tending their herds outnumber the human habitations along our route. We mad a late afternoon stop at a marina. Boats well protected from the sea. Very new and posh surroundings. Coffees for the group. 3 hot, one iced. Biscuits complimentary. Then back south with a bit of east along the north shore. Mountains. Quiet. Windswept. When we finally reached the ‘big city’ near the boarder check it took over an hour to negotiate. Much traffic. End of the work day. And a big ass hill to get over with construction obscuring some lanes. By dark we had made it to Nicosia. Beenie and Denis made a stop at the hospital to enquire about a sick friend then we head south toward home.
Back aboard we now needed to ready the boat for departure and the next port. Turkey; the big one. Project were ticked off the list… Check the rigging and the mast. Vanish Companionway wood. Free the hull of its beard… diver employed. Tune the outboard… mechanic employed. Provision… Fermented grapes liquid state, chocolate. And a few fruits and veggies. A galley garden was planted…again. Brown thumb Kathy thinks maaaybeee she can keep the herbs alive at least across the Med…. one week into it and yellow leaves… not looking good for the little green guys future. 
And then… D*m% IT !!! We both got colds. Snotty, head drowning, ear plugging crud. Kathy followed Jim down to the sick house bunk and many hours were lost sleeping and blowing… snot. Sorry. Your little bit of discomfort on this issue is overridden by the crews crappy infection…. but, this passed too, as did the time. With less than a week left on the marina contract and Turkey beckoning. We pulled ourselves off the bunk and got back to work. Check the sea cocks. Find travel cubbies for the herb containers. Stow the heater… and the many, many items that have been drifting around the boat without care because the boat hasn't moved more than a foot in 6 months…. Hurricane lamps bungie’d. Take down the winter canvas covers.
Say goodbyes to our friends… and shop owners. one last dinner here… and there. Check out with officials.
Stan ilia sou/sas…
or
Yamas!
*greek for....
to your health
