Island hopping in the Leeward Islands and LOTS of pictures

Feb 1 - 12… 

St. Maarten

We had a solar panel tech come out and look at our set up.  After some trouble shooting, it was decided that we have a bad panel.  A few phone calls, a new panel is being shipped to St. Maartin (under warranty).  Jim was feeling crumby from a cold bug so Jan and I headed to shore to run errands and catch a wifi signal.  Upon our return we see that Jim had welcomed a guest on board,  Thomas and Sofia.  Our German brainiac friend and his lovely furry, four legged companion.   We met them in the USVI’s a while back.  They were zipping by in their dinghy when Thomas recognized our boat.  We caught up on gossip since our last encounter and shared dinner; bbq ribs, apple slaw and grilled zucchini.  Dark had descended upon us and Thomas and Sophia headed for home, Sofia showing great interest in the doggie bag of bones from the ribs.  We hope to meet up again if not before, then when we reach Grenada where Thomas will be living for an extended period of time. 

St. Maartin - St. Barth / St. Barthelemy  

Gustavia 

After taking on water and fuel at Island Water World on St. Maartin we caught the 10:30 ‘out bridge’ and headed south to St. Barth 15 miles.   The pole went in the water after many weeks in confinement and soon ‘fish on’ was called.  Unfortunately it was so big it took the lure with one quick snap.  A new hook on the line and ‘fish on’ was called again.  This time brought aboard.  IA barracuda.  t’s mouth full of teeth ready to sample any flesh available.  We decided a shot of rum to ‘calm him down’ was in order.  Barracuda are known to have a disease that makes them untenable for eating in some locations.  Jim was able to release it safely… We continued on sails up till we had to tack and drop the sails.  

We cruised the inner harbor of St. Barth for a mooring ball and decided the quarters were too tight so we dropped the hook outside.  There was a bit of a roll but gentle enough for sleeping and moving around.  Jim went to shore and cleared us in to customs.  With Jim still feeling a bit under the weather Jan and I headed to town to have a look see.  The town of Gustavia is small and bustling with activity, mostly after dark.  The streets are narrow.  Really narrow.  One smart car or a scooter wide.  Restaurants and live music get going 8pm or latter.  There are shops of all kinds, close together, selling mostly high end goods.  St. Barths is a mecca for the rich and richer.  Nearly everyone speaks French.  Big and bigger yachts tied to shore, the biggest at anchor in the outer harbor.  Because the harbor is so small boats drop anchor and back down to the harbor walls or tie to mooring both front and back to prevent any movement by current or wind.  The surge is significant and the boats thrust and twist on their lines quite a bit.  Having scoped things out bit, we returned aboard for dinner, nightcaps and some shuteye.  

The next morning, we packed a bag for shore and exploring.  Water bottles, shower kits, and swimsuits.  We headed up one of the remarkably steep hills to explore one of the forts at Gustavia.  It has had a few different lives over the years, now a meteorological museum.  Returning to sea level we walked around the very picturesque town, stopping to admire the yachts, shops and waterfront.   One way traffic barely able to maneuver the narrow streets.  We spent a couple of hours at Shell Beach, tops optional.  An easy walk from the town center.  There were plenty of very small shells on the rather small beach.  We found a spot and did a quick change on the beach and took the plunge.  The water was especially refreshing after having gotten sweaty from the hike to the fort.   Shell Beach just might be the luckiest beach in the Caribbean.  I have heard that finding beach glass brings good luck.  After filling one hand to overflowing, I decided to be more particular about my choices and I still easily filled my other palm.  Having had our fill of sun, sand and surf we walked back, headed home for a late lunch and a nap.  

Refreshed, we took a last trip ashore late afternoon.  Jim checked us out of the country in preparation for tomorrows trip to St. Kitts / Nevis.  50 miles.  The guys then took the trek up to Fort Oscar, 137.8 feet above sea level.  It is currently used as a police facility.  Upon their return we walked around a bit before heading home.  Homemade spaghetti sauce with pasta for dinner.  The clouds allowed for a spectacular sunset.  The rock outcroppings, Les Gros Islets, in the middle ground.  

Feb 4

The Islands that brush the clouds.  The Leeward Islands.  5 of them: Saba, St. Kitts (St. Christopher), Nevis, Stacia (St. Eustatius) and Montserraat.  * they all have unprotected harbors,  anchorages are usually very roll'y and uncomfortable for cruising boats. 

South to St. Kitts.  about 40 miles.  We set the sails for a nice long passage downwind.  The pole in the water and soon a fish was on…. then off.  Took the lure of course.   Another lure on and we soon had another fish on.  This time a keeper!  A huge mahimahi.  We couldn't slow the boat to less than 5 knots because of the preventer lines Jim had rigged.  The gaff was out and ready, the fish was 10 feet from the boat.  Jim had it in the pan and savoring it’s delicate flesh… when it took a leap and … it was gone.  It managed to cut the line.  Jan was especially frustrated (W.T.F. !) after having fought it so long.  A bit of a rest, the line went back in the water.  This time we landed another barracuda.  Catch and release.  After that there were no takers for our bait.  This fishing thing is getting expensive.  We have lost no less than 6 lures to fish that got away… 

We anchored in the harbor of Basseterre, St. Kitts.  St. Kitts and Nevis are one country, two islands.  We walked around the harbor / town area.  It’s center called the Circus.  The buildings  are old colonial style.  Brick built with wooden facades and porches.  The streets narrow.  St. Kitts is a very fertile island having a lot of usable land that is relatively flat.  The center of the island is home to Mt. Liamuiga, an inactive volcano at 3,792 ft.   Lots of tropical fruits and produce are grown here.  

We stayed one night in the rolling harbor then moved to White House Bay, 5 miles south.  A bit more protected.  We hired a driver, Kevin, to take us on a tour.  He was well versed in the local history and knew many interesting places to take tourists.  The highlights included the partially restored ruins of on old sugar mill in the rainforest.  (A sugar train use to run the perimeter of the island, a portion has been turned into a luxury tourist ride).  

The island is home to THOUSANDs of green vervet monkeys brought over from Africa as pets.  They are found in all parts of the island and are opportunists when it comes to peoples belongings, crops etc.  Many of the locals supplement their incomes from the tourist trade by having trained monkeys to pose with visitors… for a tip.  We visited Fort  Charles atop Brimstone Hill which is at the base of a volcano crater.  There are lots of old churches and countless sugar mill ruins.  

At the north end of the island is Black Rocks.  Leftover black volcanic protrusions jutting skyward from the crashing surf.   Jim learned how to play (lose at) ‘who goes last, losses’…. a coin game.  3 rows of coins are set out, 3, 5 and 7 per row.  Taking turns, the players remove as many / few coins in a single row as desired.   The loser, as the name states, is the one that gets the last coin.  The winner collects all the coins… 

The final stop was an overlook called Timothy Hill.  A panoramic view of the south end of the island, including Robert Redfords Villas, Sundance Ridge. 

Heading out tomorrow.  

St. Eustatius known locally as Stacia.

Stacia is a bit out of the way, there’s no harbor protection for boats and it has a very steep climb to get to the town proper.  Jim has been looking forward to seeing this island for weeks.  The shore is lined with the ruins of the former town.  A few businesses catering mainly  to tourists remain on the shore level but most are at the top of the cliff.  

Stacia is home to Quill, an extinct volcano.  A hiking trail leads to the crater rim, and for those with enough hootsba’ can even hike a portion of the rim at your own risk… a guide is HIGHLY recommended.  The 1.5 hour hike took me over 2 hours… Jim and Jan being very patient and encouraging sherpas.  Most of the trail and the crater rim are shrouded in dense vegetation.  The clouds do indeed brush the tops of the island.  

Why did the chicken cross the road?… I can’t say, but I know why the roster climbed to the crater rim of Quill…. to get tidbits from the hikers…  We met the resident Rim Rooster that happily greets the hikers and  cleans the area of any crumbs left from snacking or lunches.  The trip down was much fast, gravity helping with every step.  

We took showers at the National Park Office. 2 bucks. Rustic, cool and refreshing.  Dinner at the Kings Well.  Laura the owner and hostess.  She and her husband (he was ill and we didn't get to meet him) have called this home for over 60 years.  They turned a small building into a once thriving bed and breakfast, restaurant and bar.  They truly love this small, quaint island.  Their business has suffered some over the last number of years.  In their 80’s now, it is a lot to manage.  The restaurant is now closed to locals due to the taxes and restrictions the Dutch have imposed on businesses.  They do however offer lovely meals for visiting yachties, if you join their ‘club’ (a loop hole).  They themselves were sailors in their younger years and have an affinity for those of us out there cruising.  She directs her bed and breakfast customers to a friends business up the road but is happy to prepare dinner for cruisers with a days notice.  She offered us a variety of choices for meals, the guys had herb buttered grouper, I choose chicken cordon blue.  We all thoroughly enjoined our dinners.  Laura had us come early for sunset, free internet and the ‘honor bar’… write down what you take from the fridge or pour from the open bar.  She’ll tally it all up after dinner, pay in cash.  It wasn't the cheapest place in town but it was the most interesting.  

While sitting and enjoying our beverages from The Kings Well veranda we had front row seats to tonights Harbor Cinema.  A charter boat was boarded by the coast guard.  We had had an ‘encounter’ with the boat earlier in the day.  It had anchored right next to us in the mooring field which is also a marine park, off limits to anchoring… we choose to say nothing and hope of the best.  After several hours of rolling about they decided to up anchor and ????.   The wind had shifted a bit and their anchor was precariously close to our starboard side.  Jim jumped to the controls and  started the engine to try to keep us from hitting.  Nothing was said to / by either boat but it was a very tense few minutes… they managed to get the anchor up and took a mooring ball at the back of the bay. Whew…  BTW, there were plenty of available moorings all day.  They had not reported to customs /immigration, which must have prompted the sunset visit by the coast guard…  

Laura offered us jobs: help run the bushiness, take over the former charter business (they have a catamaran), start up an affordable  “women’s sailing school…” among the possible positions.  If any of my readers want / need employment while living in a tropical environment… we’ll forward your info to her.  Completely and fully placated, we said our good buys to Laura, her 2 ginormous great danes, several cats and her african macaws.  It was a very pleasant evening with a passionate and eccentric octogenarian.  

Back to St. Maarten… Feb 9 - 12

A beam reach, sailing all the way.  20 knots of wind pushing us along at 7+ knots.  Our expected arrival time moving up with every surfing wave and we made the 3 pm bridge and had the anchor set by 3:30.  No rolling.  No waves to contend with.  The only trouble was a squall that hit moments before the bride opened.  Jim got a good rinsing along with he boat while making our way through the bridge and setting the anchor.  

We are home… we were all glad to have the boat not rocking and rolling.  The last 2 nights especially disruptive to sleeping.   We put things back in order more or less from several days of being dropped and left for calmer conditions.  

With Jan’s departure looming on the horizon, we hit a few happy hours, ate out a few times and rented a car for a day so Jan could see the island.  We spent some time in Phillipsburg where the cruise ships dock.  There were 4 in port.  We wandered around the made for tourists shops and found a few things to purchase before continuing on.  Even with a map we often found ourselves turning around and retreating to the main road, the beach of landmark not quite where  the sign points to.  Le Galion beach was an interesting stop, the French side.  A nice protected harbor, somewhat shallow for swimmers.  Cross over a small crest of land and the open Atlantic comes tumbling in.  The volcanic rock shoreline surface was riddled with bubble holes and course rock structures.  Not for the bare footed beach goers.  We took brief stops at several other beaches along the way before shopping for lunch at a French grocery; croissants, cheese, salami.  We drove on the Grand Case and found a mostly dry spot on the beach to eat.  We strolled the narrow streets and found a few more trinkets to bring home.  The afternoon was waning so we continued on till we had circumnavigated the island.  

A few trips to the beach at Simpsons Bay for Jan to perfect his tan and Friday, D day, was upon us.  A cockpit shower, jeans and shoes and he was off to the airport in the local taxi.  Jan’s visit brought decent wind for sailing which seems to be his passion.  We enjoyed his company as always and who knows…. maybe we’ll see him the summer in Germany while we wait out hurricane season…

St. Maarten : Dutch vs. French

Jan 18 -  Feb 1

Sunrise, St. Maartin on the horizon

Our weather window was good to leave for St. Martin (sint Maarten) today so we prepared the boat and ourselves, tried to steal a few naps during the day before the overnight passage.  Departure 4 pm to ensure our arrival coincided with daylight hours.  Our friends Jim, Cindy and crew heading out as well aboard their boat.  The passage was rather uneventful.  Just over 80 miles, motoring due east.  One of the cruise ships from St. Thomas paralleled our course all night, 5-6 knots.   We saw more boats on this short passage than the entire 10 day offshore passage from North Carolina to the BVI’s.  We had to cut back the throttle as we neared the St. Maarten, having made good time, about 14 hours. The sun was just waking up.  We dropped the hook in Simpson Bay outside the harbor.  The Dutch side.  Many other boats already bobbing peacefully in the bay.  Several boats being much too large to enter into Simpson Bay Lagoon. 

Too big to  enter the harbor

After breakfast, Jim went ashore to customs to clear us in and was soon back aboard.  St. Martin is a cruiser friendly port.  Customs very well organized and efficient.  The island is duty free, making it easy on the tourist and cruisers pocket book.   We have found it to be at least as cheap as the States for most things we need / want.   Happy hour every night in most places, $1 - $2  beers, mixed drinks 3 bucks.  Live music.  Food to suit every palette and budget.   Yacht work / maintenance is good quality, affordable and timely.  

   

We spent a fair amount of time the first week going between Island Water World (marine supply store) and Lagoonies Bistro and Bar, having dinner ashore due to the state of the outer harbor… too much motion to prep anything more than a cold sandwich.  We joined our friends from Splash on numerous occasions for happy hour before they upped anchor and departed for Antigua.  They are exchanging crew there.  Safe travels!

one of the many lovely bays 

After several days of rolling and tossing about in the exposed outer harbor, a mutiny was building so we upper anchor and found a spot on the Lagoon.  Several times I woke during the night, believing we had gone aground… the lagoon being so calm the boat was seemingly motionless. 

St. Maarten is half Dutch (south side), half French (north side).  Once you clear customs on either side of the island you can travel anywhere on the island, no boarder check.  We rented a car for a day to tour.  With multiple stops for sightseeing / overlooks, snacks here, lunch there… we had circumnavigated the entire island in 6 hours. 

French ..... fries

The island has a line on mountains going through its interior but the perimeter is more or less flat..ish.  There is a Simpsons Lagoon on the north west side spans both Dutch and French territory.  

First stop, the Great Salt Pond at Philipsburg; the reason the island was settled.  Not much to see.  Continuing counter clockwise, we stumbled onto a nude beach … A few swimmers and sun seekers enjoying the day.  

Infused rum .... yum yum

Joanne and Jim

We had our first ever ‘French’ Fries at  Village de Grand Case followed by a complimentary rum shot, infused with coffee beans and orange rind from the homemade collection of the restaurant.  Really good!   Server Joanne topped off our shot glasses and invited us to Carnival which is gearing up for the festivities next week.  Free rum shots after dinner are a tradition in many restaurants on the island, similar to many european restaurants which serve ‘medicine’ after each meal… an herbal liquor to sooth the tummy. 

French Pastries 

We made a stop at Marigot.  A bustling little town, French side.  Plenty of restaurants and shops to choose from. 

With little island left to explore, we headed to Maho Bay. The Sunset Bar is world famous for it’s unique location.  It is nearly at the end of the international airport runway bordering the Caribbean Sea.   A very narrow beach causeway allows 2 lane narrow traffic to pass immediately at the end of the runway.  The incoming jets and planes fly directly overhead mere feet from the many onlookers.  The outgoing jet engines nearly blow these same gawkers off the road and into the sea.  HUGE signs warn of the dangers involved in being so close…  The Sunset Bar has capitalized on their location attracting hundreds of ‘customers’ everyday to get an eye and ear full.  It was pretty amazing to see all the action.  The beach itself created its own entertainment as people of all sorts tried to swim in the huge waves and swells of the bay.  People getting toppled over and pulled to sea then washed back ashore where they would get toppled again unless quick on their retreat.  

Volvo Race contender 

I am getting quite spoiled here.  Any kind of food or service readily available.  I can see why St. Maarten attracts so many yachties. There is every size, shape and value of boat here.  One of the race boats from the ‘round the world races sponsored by Volvo was berthed at the St. Maarten Yacht Club for a while.  Steve Jobs’ yacht was here for a about week; it looks like a sleek condo building… afloat. Very modern.  So many huge yachts it’s hard to fathom the costs.  To counter all these mega yachts, there are the others.  Cruisers like us.  Living aboard. Sail and power.   Some traveling, some staying put.  

Venus,  120 M $, 265 feet of luxury

And there are the ‘how can it be floating’ boats.  Rust buckets, barnacle hulled, port holes agape.  I wish I could hear their stories.  What a life they must have lived.  One of them is the Pink Iguana.  A not quite floating, rusty hulk of a tug boat, the wheel house painted pink.  It is one of the local bars hosting happy hour daily.  

Not a super yacht

Arthur and Shaggy

Having been here better than a week and more than 2 weeks since we took on water we called Arthur.  The local cruisers net mentioned his services.  Arthur, accompanied by Shaggy will bring their water boat to your boat while at anchor.  For a very modest charge, we were able to top off the tanks with fresh water.  The marinas offer water as well but you must travel to them… Up anchor, navigate the harbor, tie off to their dock, fill up and return to the anchorage.  At best a 2 hour process.  Getting ‘your spot’ back would be nearly impossible since the anchorage has been acquiring new arrivals everyday.  One of the mysteries we have debated while in every harbor has been… what do the boats that are always at anchor and don’t leave the harbor doing about their holding tank waste.  Arthur says it’s one of the great mysteries of the Caribbean, it just disappears at night… having suspected this, we have not done any swimming in any closed harbors… 

Sunset Bar

The weather is absolutely perfect, if you like… an occasional rain, day temps in the high 80’s, nights in the high 70’s.  A gentle breeze or a lively blow.  Sunny nearly all the time.

We have access to every imaginable marine resource here, Jim tackled a few more ‘projects’.  Replacing the salt water pump for the deck wash down.  Re-plumbing some hoses with shut off valves.  New battery terminal fittings (salt corrosion).   Re-fitting the anchor bracket on the bow.  I don't know about Jim, but I love ‘Cruising’ .. (definition) fixing your boat in exotic places… 

fire destroyed 3 boats

We met up with another couple later that evening, Dave and Donna aboard S/v Enthalpy II.  They are from Kalamazoo, MI; nearly neighbors from back home.  They are part time cruisers avoiding the winter months here in the islands.

There has been quite a bit of Harbor Cinema around here.  2 boats drug anchor in the high winds, one just barely missing another boat.  Then as we we're heading for a happy hour trip ashore we noticed black smoke.  LOTS of black, smelly smoke drifting our way.  Unfortunately, someone working on a boat, grinding something too close to the boats gas tanks, ignited a fire.  The man was burnt pretty bad on his legs and 3 boats were destroyed.  The fumes were awful.  Chunks of burnt wood and fiberglass coating the water, drifting seaward through the harbor. 

Another harbor near Marigot 

 We decided to do a bit more exploring on the French side so we headed back to Marigot.  It’s a bit of a ride in our little dink with a 6 horse motor, Dinghy Butt threatening with every wave.  We ventured into Marigot Bay where we noticed S/v Styrr, a boat from our time n New York on the Hudson River.  No one aboard, we we continued on when Jim spotted another Passport… We were soon invited aboard S/v Kismet and making new friends with Henry (Hank) and Carol.  Their kids grown, they quit there jobs, sold there ‘stuff’, bought

Fort Lois

Kismet, and have been living aboard in the ‘islands’ for 6 years.  No plans to give it up.  Their boat is a near copy of ours, a few hull numbers separating their construction dates.  We found we had many values and ideals similar making conversation relaxed and easy.  To our good fortune, Carol would say “kismet’…. they were happy to off load a collection of DVDs to us.  We have found many cruisers share and trade goods readily.  Books, tools, movies and of course information… 

LUNCH

atop Fort Lous

The afternoon was quickly slipping away so we parted ways, hoping our paths cross again.  Ashore, it was hard to decide what our palette’s might find the tastiest.  Goat curry won.  It was flavorful and filling.  A few small bones to contend with, typical for goat, having eaten it a few times prior.  We climbed to the top of Mont de Marigot, home to what was Fort Louis.  A panoramic view of Marigot, Simpson Bay Lagoon the Caribbean and surrounding area, spectacular.  Other sights included iguanas, day trippers from the cruise ships, small boats, big boats, sunk boats and house boats.  We made a quick stop at the Pink Iguana for a drink…We tied to their VERY rouged floating dock (scary!) to board the vessel… a test of faith and nerves.  Rusty, dirty, pointy, sharp things waiting to puncture the rubber of the dink at the slightest provocation.   The Pink Iguana is within a couple of minutes walk of the airport which makes it a desirable location when picking up / dropping off crew from the airport.  

the Pink Iguana

On Saturday we welcomed Jan back aboard.  He will spend 2 weeks holiday with us.  Traveling for over 12 hours: Germany to Paris and on to St. Maarten.  We had celebratory drinks at the Pink Iguana then headed home.  Jan brought a few gifts from Germany; THANK YOU Dirk and Heike (Jan’s parents) !   We had a toast of Mostovskaya, the premium Vodka from Russia… Smelled horrible but went down smooth and gentle.  A very pleasant surprise.  After a bit of catching up we hit the bunks.

Welcome back Jan

Happy Birthday today to Alex… Enjoy your day… wish we could celebrate with you but we will toast you from afar.  

the Witches Tit

After a hearty breakfast, we headed to Marigot Bay for a day of sightseeing.  Under the swing bridge, past the Witches Tit, a craggy mountain peak and through the maze of boats.  New, old and derelict… We tied up and began exploring.   It was Sunday so many businesses were closed.  Jim and Jan climbed up to the remains of Fort Lois, I opted for the shade and comfort of a French Bakery.  

MC for Marti Gras

We lunched on crepes then headed off to todays Mari Gras parade. Carnival is just kicking off on St. Martin.  Todays parade was the Children’s Parade.  Starting with the MC in a very fashionable Super Man costume.  The parade began with several cars ushering the junior princesses in their tiaras and gowns followed by troops of dancers.  Each group had their own DJ playing their selected music vibrating from the ginormous speakers housed in the backs of pickups.  The costumes colorful and inventive, increasingly more elaborate as the age groups went from preschool to elementary, then young teens.  Watching the adult version is hear the top of my bucket list…. 

We headed back across the bay and home for a rest.  We decide on Little Jerusalem for dinner.  The cruisers net stating it they had the BEST Shawarma on the island.   Seasoned lamb and chicken, onions and peppers, bundled in a pita, add a bit of lettuce drizzled with tzatziki sauce.  It was de-lish!

A quick stop at The Soggy Dollar bar where Jim was befriended by the chef of Sofia… one the mega motor yachts berthed here.  Alejandro (50 something) with his french accent was in a mood… lonely for his ‘auntie’ back in Ontario, missing his boyfriend in Guadalupe’  and just a bit tipsy…. it made for an interesting night cap.  

Today a few chores.  Fill the propane tank, get the solar panels checkout by the local tech (voltage is low).  Grocery shopping. Pick up / send off mail.  Afternoon at Maho Beach to watch the planes.  Oh, and proper showers at Lagoonines… dinner aboard; bbq ribs.  

We plan to head to St. Barthelamy (St. Bart) Tuesday am.  10:30 bridge.  Spend a few days there, then on to St. Eustatuis, St. Kitts and Nevis…. then ???? 

the Pink Iguana ....