Cappadocia Turkey... 2018

Cappadocia, Turkey Excursion

May 2018

mysterious

enchanting

dramatic

The leading tourist attraction in Turkey, is the area known as Cappadocia.  Millions of years in the making, from numerous volcanic eruptions, then natural erosion.  The unique and unmistakable landscape we were to visit.  The South Dakota Badlands meets the Flintstones; Dr. Seuss' the architect.  

Cappadocia, originally Katpatuk, means land of beautiful horses… Hatti peoples being the first to inhabit the area.   

It is best known for it’s Fairy Chimneys; the predominate feature.  Made of soft Tufa (sandstone) with basalt caps.  These natural formations have been inhabited since prehistoric times, the

We secured transport from a local tour company.  3 days, 2 nights.

…  It would take a day to get there; 13 1/2 hours.  One day to explore; with the tour company. Then another day to return to Kemer.  

We left Kemer at 4:15 am, our driver meeting us at the marina gate.  We then picked up 3 other passengers and continued to the meeting point and the ‘big’ bus for further transport on to Cappadocia.  We were the last 5 on the big bus and last to ‘choose’ seats.  All in the back in the most uncomfortable seat possible.  But, our tour director came to our rescue and after reseating a few ‘singles’ together, we had better seats, and other than the driver and tour director… the best seats!  whew…

We stopped every 2+ hours for bathroom rest breaks.  Breakfast on your own at a roadside restaurant.  Of the 4 meals included in the tour package lunch and all beverages were extra.  The tour director claimed there would be no other options for lunch / food unless we ate with the group and prepaid 12 dollars each!  We inquired about the possibly of a market… non around and NO other restaurants either … hmmm.  So we anti'd up; for day one.  We would discover later that there was indeed a market next door… Fool me once, shame on you.  Fool me twice, shame on me… The lunch was nice however… but way over priced.  So much so that when the director paid the bill she was ‘reimbursed’ a hefty profit (a recurring theme) … This is how she makes her money, I get that … the trip was ridiculously inexpensive!… but not being truthful gets my goat…

workers camp along the highway
possibly for field hands /  agriculture 

Turkey is 80 percent mountains. We would traverse many of the steep and majestic ranges before reaching our goal.  The landscape changes dramatically as we approached the plateau of the Cappadocia area.  

Flat fertile plains full of pastures and fields for agriculture. 

 Our first official “tour’ stop would be the Mevlana Museum and Mausoleum of the Whirling Dervishes.  

The museum was a former training center for an order of Whirling Dervish… our education on the ‘Dervishes' would be continue later with a recreation of a Sema, the Whirling Dervish ceremony.  

  

There are 7 parts to the deeply religious ceremony.  Each part bringing the whirler closer to ‘nirvana”, the mystic journey to ascension:  “Mirac” in Turkish.  The whirling man, dervish, hopes to enter a state of being one with the earth and its revolutions and in turn its creator… through very practiced and mesmerizing repeated spins…musicians play instruments and sing / chant durning the ceremony.  This continues for nearly an hour until the ceremony is concluded with a reading from the Quran.

We continued our travels taking us to an underground city…One of several in this remarkable area.  These underground cites, were comprised of hundred of rooms with connecting tunnels.  At strategic locations the inhabitants could roll a millstone like bolt stone to prevent intruders form entering.  The cites had enough stores to keep them alive and supplied for one year in the event of an invasion… They had stables for animals located on the first floors… The largest of these cities had 8 levels with intersecting corridors and rooms.  All of these cities had kitchens with stoves, dinning areas and bedrooms, chapels and wineries…. some areas were large and airy, they had ventilation shafts throughout, some were conining and claustrophobic.  All, a mystifying and industrious use of space… 

Exiting the city gate / tunnel we are caught in a flurry of mesmerizing and melodic female voices seemingly coming from dozens of dancing dolls  that are being vigorously shaken by these women; vying for our attention in hopes of luring us in for a purchase… Apparently hand made, 2 for 10 TL… I’ll repeat; 2 for $2.50 US dollars… !!!  With so many women pleading for our liras… Jim thought it best to let chance decide… He grabbed Kathy by the shoulds, had her shut her eyes and spun her around a few times… then point to the lucky women we would make a purchase from… needless to say, the other hopefuls were disappointed, but seemed to enjoy our antics at least.  

Our hotel was modern.  The food abundant.  The rooms with ensuite heads and single beds…  all catered to the tour group crowds.  

After a quiet nights sleep we were ready to take on Cappadocia!  Our driver and guide took us to one of the many overlook’s…  the sky threatening rain with the chilling wind sent most travelers back to the bus before the allotted time was met. 

Our guide thought it best to then go to a warmer venue… One of the many pottery shops.  Were given a demonstration on wheel throwing (clay) and glazing techniques.  Then we were allowed as much time as we wanted to purchase pottery…ahhh!

just another couple of lovers ...

Back on the bus we were driven to ‘Love Valley’…  The first of the real Fairy Chimneys that make Cappadocia famous. 

The local name for this valley is… penis valley… with little imagination the viewer gets a very vivid look at these stone structures and readily understands both meanings… All along the valley walls are ‘caves’.  The valley floor supports the phallic stones.  Some with caves carved in the softer sandstone towers.   

Kathy as able to score a few souvenirs at the gift shop.  Bowls made from onyx, one of the abundant mineral rocks found here… 

  

Back to the Park Tour… we went to the ‘open air’ museum of Zelve, inhabited until 1952 by turkish muslims.  We were given an hour to explore.  The area has many caves whose main purpose was religious.  Dozens of chapels with remarkable frescos in various states of decay or refurbishment… 

Another stop allowed us to venture through an old village, now abandoned.  We walked in and among numerous caves built into the stone monoliths… Door ways and windows.  Alleys and tunnels.  Each unique.  Each mind boggling.  These people were ever so resourceful… making something from nothing… or so it seems.  

We were then scurried off to lunch.  A buffet for tour companies … Kathy  had squired away a some bread, fruit and jams from breakfast.. so we passed on the buffet option… as did many from our tour.   

We then were taken to a jewelry and gem shop… rare stones made into fine wearables and more.  We were ushered through the side door into the workshop were they demonstrated the art of cutting stone with a lathe and polishing it smooth as glass … Inside the sales room, luckily for us being part of the tour, were were given a discount! The prices, though quoted in euros would be converted directly to liras… a savings of 400 percent!  We did not find anything to our liking though we did notice that they made and sold onyx bowls… like the ones I had bought earlier that day… *my purchase for a lot less $$… one of the rare times when the middle man had the better deal… 

Next stop.  A functioning cave village.  We wandered around and met a lovely lady who does indeed live in one of the many homes carved into the stone fortress.  She spoke some english and we were welcomed into her home… A rare glimpse.  We found it homey and bright.  Modestly furnished.   Electricity and wood heating.  A small galley like kitchen.  A old but functioning refrigerator.  Living and bed rooms… An amazing porch!  With views so stunning one can almost imagine living here.  Then you realize that all goods must be lugged up the side of the stone colossal.   And winters are real and cold and long … and dark… give be a boat, on the sea, in the tropics please….  

Our (almost) last stop of the day was to n over look of the larger cave city.  Many caves had been converted with windows and modern amenities… we assume plumbing and the like.  Spectacular views made picturesque with the addition of flocks of pigeons swooping up and around the valley between the viewer and the stone village… 

  

Then back to the hotel… with one quick stop at the nut and tea shop…. Jim ducked off the bus and up the street to the market returning with a nice local bottle of wine… the same cost as  small bag of nuts… More ‘reimbursement’ between the tour director and the shop and we were officially on our way to the hotel.  Buffet dinner follow by the wine and nuts in our cozy room.  Outside beverages not allowed in the public areas…

We were up early the next morning and ready for more of Cappadocia… but, the park tour was over as of last night… but, as consolation… we were taken to a leather factory were we were able to see a fashion show.  The last of the ‘required’ tour stops  ???  … Live models on a real runway wearing the latest leather jackets of sheep skin… very soft and very pricey… no one from the tour would be dazzling their friends back home with Turkish leather…

We later found out that the Turkish government requires, at least some tour companies, to make stops at designated businesses…. The tour company sells the tour very cheaply, the tour guides must then make their money by ‘selling’ the wonderful idea of making a purchase at these locations so they can collect a portion of the sales… their income. Had we known this from the start it would have made the shop stops more palatable… 

We knew the shopping was over when the tour guide, seated directly in front of us, positioned her travel pillow around her neck and settled in for a good rest.   Lunch at the same restaurant from 2 days ago… 

Another stop at a  purpose built Han… During the times of the silk road migrations.  Caravans or travelers and traders needed a place to stay for the night, an inn.  The Hans served this purpose.  Spaced every 30 or so kilometers, the distance one could travel in a day with his load of silk and spices.  The road we have been traveling on is part of this old route.  The inn we stopped at is a tourist attraction.  Tea and snacks.  A few souvenirs and toilets; for a couple of TR… Turkish lira…

the completion of this tunnel will eliminate 70 km of
 steep mountains highway through unpopulated terrain  

Snow capped mountains in May

Several more hours would pass before we would be back aboard Inishnee.  A bus change.  Passengers dropped off.  A tea break… then home… 

a storm brewing 

recap…

we saw some AMAZING sites! 

   fairy chimneys and rock caves, rock cut churches (1000+) / frescos, 

   underground cities; sophisticated labyrinths proving the ingenuity of its ancient inhabitants 

   pottery, handicrafts, horses, camels…

we reaffirmed we are NOT tour group people; but we are thrifty and practical…

was it worth it?  yes 

Cyprus to Turkey 2018

En route to Turkey 

first our encounters with the locals

April / May 2018

Our departure from Cyprus was delayed several days.

Wednesday the marina was host to a terrorist drill.  All marine personal would be needed for their event and boaters were restricted from departing during this time.  The local Fire department, Police, ambulance, emergency personal etc… would be participating in and around the marina.  Actors playing the part of victims with ‘blood and wounds’ were staged at strategic points around the complex.  Helicopters swooped in and dropped cargo, divers, swat teams… pretty interesting.  All morning ‘pops, bangs, rat-a-tat-tat, and sirens echoed off buildings.  Jim was able to catch some action while trying (again) to reclaim our propane tank from the marine supply store… His route took him through one of the settings.  The wounded were being tended to while film crews got footage for the TV news and papers.   Police and emergency participants ‘secured’ the area… Kind of surreal …

The propane tank that was due to be returned the week prior, was still MIA.  Jim would check nearly everyday to be met with a similar response….” tomorrow, it will be here”… Like a promise written in sand.  At Jim’s polite insistence that the tank be returned full or empty by Thursday, our contract at the marina expired Friday and we MUST leave.. and not on a Friday because mariners DO NOT depart for a voyage on Fridays according to superstition… Finally the provider came through late morning Thursday.  Power cords and wifi (reluctantly) were disconnected.  We clear out with customs and police and finalize our marina bill.  The marina sent a tender to assist with the lines and we were underway.  6 months after arriving.  

A side note… once we were tethered to the dock after arrival, we did not go out for day sails etc… First; the marina has strict rules and require ANY vessel to report their departure and arrival with them.  A crew list is required and permission from the officials.  Also, being tethered to the dock meant power and wifi cords had to be unplugged and stowed and then we would have to stow all the things that would tumble about or break if not secured on a rolling, moving vessel.  So we stayed tied fast to the dock all winter.  

The sea was calm, next to no wind for our departure and most of the passage.  We planned for 2 overnights but secretly hoped for one.  Night shifts went well, 3 hours on, 3 off.  Motoring.  The dust of Cyprus behind us.  Cyprus is prone to weekly, multiple day dust events, that originate in the Sahara.  The weather reports are accompanied daily with air quality reports.  Often cautioning those with breathing difficulties to limit outdoor activities… The hills directly behind the city of Limassol were often obscured with these dust clouds.  This will not be missed.  

Later afternoon brought winds for sailing, the sails went up and the engine off.  5 hours sailing at 4 - 7 knots… The mountainous coast of Turkey began seeping through the dust (ahhh) off to port.  If we were REALLY lucky we could just maybe make the marina at dark… But, the wind absolutely and completely died.  We doused the head sail and within seconds the wind clocked completely around, main still up, and began blowing with a steady 25 knots topping on 30… The cabin below started revolting and the loose items jettisoned out and about… The squall passed but our hopes of anchoring were in question. Wind out of the west with no protection…  

















We called the marina.  

The conversation went something like this… ‘We will arrive after dark.  We need a dock…” Turkish marina man(TMM) , ‘a doc?’… J: ‘yes, a dock”… TMM, ‘Ill call you back in 5 minutes…’    5 m i n u t e s    l a t e r  …. TMM, ‘ hello, what is the emergency?’  J, ??? ‘no emergency, we need a dock…’   TMM, ‘yes, what is the nature of your medical emergency?… ‘  J… realization hits! … ‘We need a berth… not a doctor.”   TMM… ‘OK… we will be ready for you”

So… our fault.  We need to use more universal language… in the Mediterranean they have berths… not docks… easy to see the confusion… 

We noticed a boat skirting the shore at a high rate of speed.  then turn sharply… toward us.  Pirates?  no.  Coast Guard?  yup.  Prepare to be boarded… just in case.  Kathy stowed the ‘extra’ boxes of wine out of sight and waited as they approached, did a circle around the boat then hailed Inishnee.  Jim responded.  Questions about crew and destination.  Previous port etc..  Another circle of the boat and we were alone again.  

The wind piped up again and we again questioned going in to the unknown marina after dark with a “hazardous underwater wreck” squarely at the mouth of the marina entrance… or motoring in circles all night just off shore… OMGosh… Kathy has a realization… ‘We did NOT give the customary toast to the sea ‘gods’ upon departure of the voyage!  This was remedied quickly, with sincerely apologies… The wind died down to a respectable (seriously !!!) 5-6 knots.  The sun set and and we closed in on the coast and the marina.  We switched on the spreader lights, Kathy on the bow, Jim and the wheel.  Around the ‘wreck’ and through the break wall, stay clear of the HUGE bow sprint of the ‘pirate ship”… there were several… when down below in the dark appears a tender… no lights..  Marina Man to the rescue!  “follow me…”  we wove our way around, eyes bulging to find the tender in the dark… with no lights! He guided us to our ‘berth’ and helped us secure.  Very uneventful… Thank you sea ‘gods”!!! et all…. Dinner; taziki, pitas and a bit of grog.  

We slept like rocks

And woke up to rocks… a huge frickin’ mountain range of rocks backdropping the marina.  Stunning.  

We re-settled the boat.  Then went ashore to clear customs etc.  Paper work and stamps.  A few rules and regulations to note.   Then the Marian man… aka TMM says.. ‘by the way, what was the medical emergency?…’  As it turns out, he was the man on the phone last night.  We apologized and explained that our country calls the berth a ‘dock’  and that we should have used the term berth….  He was quite understanding… 

The marina has a lively live aboard community.  Gatherings and outings.  We rested.  Explored the town a bit.  Were greeted by shop owners with promises of good prices and a cup of tea… Tea is king here.  All day.  Hot and sweet.  sip while playing cards or backgammon.  Chatting with friends.  etc.  Turkish delight (candy) is every where… Showers and dinner out.  Cassoulette, served on a clay baking 

dish, bubbling from the stove… DO NOT eat immediately… have that steaming hot tea or a chilled wine but DO NOT attempt to put the stew near type mouth… it’s hot ALL the way down… experience the best teacher.  

An early night. hit the pillow by 10pm… Jim woke to a noise on deck.. We are bow in to the cement pier. the boarding ladder suspended over the dock… yes, dock.  He went topside and found the ladder grinding on the cement… He lifted the ladder just as a cat jumped from our sail cover onto the deck next to his feet… we gave the international gesture (its a Turkish cat) to get the heck off the boat … lowered the ladder and the cat obligated… As Jim made his way aft, the thought occurred to him… Only one cat?  he batted the sail cover and out pop another cat… Jim ‘gestured’ to him to vacate, which he did; jumping onto the next boat and off their ladder… As boat visitors go, well take a cat over rats, or bugs or pirates ANY day… but, we will make sure the hatches are secure… 

Touring Turkey

We met several cruisers at G-Marina Kemer, our temporary home base.  They were very helpful giving us information on local attractions, shopping and places we would / should stop at as we make our way along and around the Turkish ‘Riviera’ coast the next 6 weeks.  

Wolf, our berth mate, took us to the fresh market held once a week.  Amazing.  Tons of fresh produce.  A fish market too.  Local honey with or without the comb.  Cheeses and breads.  Garlic with dirt still clinging to their roots.  Artichokes, peeled while you wait… seconds, then plunged in a water bath.  Green sour plums, beans, lettuce, quince, pomegranates, peppers, eggplant, strawberries, oranges…  and lots, LOTS more.  

and Turkish Delight!

Over night the street transforms into the clothing market.  1 kilometer in length.  Jeans, shirts, dresses, shoes.  Turkish towels. Leather belts and purses.  Jewelry; plastic and silver.  More Turkish delight! Tea cups… which are small hourglass shaped made of  glass.  Hot to hold… a few dry goods like you might find at a dollar store… 

Our new friends told us about ‘Fire Spitting Mountain’…a short bus ride, x2, to the seaside village of Cirili, then on to the National Park.  Hike up the old trail till you find fire coming our of the mountain.  The legend says the a greek youth called Bellerophontes with his flying horse Pegasus, killed the fire spitting dragon Chimera… Flames rose out of his mouth as he took his last gasp of breath.  Science tells us the fire is from natural gases… that burn 24 / 7… At the base of the fire are are the remains on an old settlement.  Possibly a church.  

We took the ferry boat from the marina to the nearby city of Antalya built on one of the few flat planes in the country.  Turkey is 80% mountainous.   Antalya supports nearly 2 million people… Highlights were the old city wall high on the only hill.  Difficult to penetrate.  The old city has been transformed into shops and restaurants.  Several parks too.  Lots of ways to spent your money.. Our friend Larry asked to to find one the the “shy’ carpet dealers and maybe we could persuade him to sell us a rug.. We did find one… but he wasn't so shy… He was friendly and offered tea… we chatted an while then parted ways.  No rugs for Inishnee this trip. 

Turkey is also a cat loving nation.  There are a few dogs, BIG, but the cats out number them.  And they seem  to have a mutual respect for one another… Several business put out trays of food and water for the strays.  Along the main road along the old city there is even a cat house… actually several.  A keeper is there to look after the the cats and a few dogs. Donations gladly excepted.  Another area even had a condo for cats… many boxes in a screened in house.  

As the time neared for us to catch the return ferry, we strolled along the water front admiring the tour boats and fishing vessels.  One of the Gullet Boat Captains, Torgai (sp?), invited us aboard to watch him make a net which he will use as a gangplank support netting.  Jim tried his hand at knotting… Torgai was a very patient tutor.  Jim managed to get a few knots made… just a bit ‘off’ from the captains… we hope he’ll think kindly of us when he looks at the slightly different knots…   

We also got a tour is one of the big day tripper boats based here at the marina.  The Kaptan, Faith Murat Kaygusuz invited us aboard “Medusa” and conducted the tour.  His boat is currently being refurbished and out of commission…   These boats are made to look like pirate boats with a mythological theme…  and a Disney attitude.  They hold a hundred or more tourist each. 9 of them!  Everyday, precisely at 10 am the parade starts. The exodus of ships, one by one.   Each boat has its own theme song and is proudly broadcast for all to enjoy… They go for several hours.  Anchoring about 8 miles from here at a bay with an ancient archeological site both above sea level and below…  *it’s on our list of places to anchor… 

Having exhausted most of the nearly attractions… we decided to go to Cappadocia… 

Amazing.  Stunning.  A fairy land of stone.  

There was / is soooo much to see and soooo many pictures… it will get its own blog post…

till next time, safe travels all…