The British Virgin Islands

Inishnee from Jost Van Dyke

Big Bay, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Nov. 9 - 11

After nearly 10 days at sea we choose Jost Van Dyke, BVI to make landfall and check in with customs.  

main street Jost Van Dyke

We could see the lights and silhouette from the Islands miles off shore in the early morning light.  Being careful of our new surroundings, we made a large circle waiting for sunrise.  Once we could clearly see our surroundings we headed for our destination.  We picked up a morning ball in the harbor and began what would be come a 3 day recuperation.  We were tired but pretty psyched about our accomplishment.  We sat in awe of our surroundings as we waited for customs to open.  The mountains jutting up from the shoreline.  The green, yellow and brown from trees and vegetation a welcome change.  To occupy our time and facilitate getting shore Jim detached the dinghy (Craic: her unofficial name) from her confines on deck and launched her into the clear, turquoise waters of the Caribbean.  We discovered several more flying fish on deck.  A tropic bird and several pelican soared over head, inspecting the harbor.  We freshened up the cockpit with a freshwater bath.  The boat was aired out and and we too bathed using the cockpit shower.   It had been over 11 days since we had had a proper shower.  We tidied up the cabin and tried to make sense of the mayhem below deck.   

At the appointed hour, Captain Jim took the ships papers and the crew id’s to BVI customs.  He returned within an hour, with the blessing of the BVI officials to come ashore and stay awhile.  We were soon all on shore and ready for the next adventure even if our weary minds and stiff muscles had other ideas.  Main street, a lovely sand road, almost 2 lanes wide, paralleling the shore line. Taxi’s pass by offering rides.  

maintenance 

First stop, Foxy’s.  A local bar / restaurant.  We will have our first ‘lime’ time: to have good time, BVI style.   We toasted with ‘Painkillers’  and took in the surroundings.  Sandy shallow harbor.  Real palm trees.  The locals with great, big smiles.  It’s hot. Sunny.  Our attempt to work our way through the drink menu was supplemented with conch fritters, burgers and fries.  Having made a dent in sampling the beverage menu, naps were next.

  

Corsair's... words to live by

Our remaining 2 days were spent reacclimatizing to being semi land lubbers, doing chores and seeing the sights.   While doing laundry I met Debbie.  She co-owns Coursair’s bar and eatery.  She and friends Dan and RJ run the place.   Fantastic food and a great atmosphere.

It's not always sunny 

The Laundry is run by a lovely young mom.  2 washers. 2 dryers.  Pay cash when you finish, 2 dollars a load, the honor system.  One of the locals manage to get 3 loads of laundry into one washer as well as stuffing it into one dryer.  I waited and waited for his load to finish so I could transfer our things while his when round and round.  I finally relented and hung our things on the line. His dryer was starting to smell a bit ‘hot’ so I separated his load into 3 and started the process for him again.  4 hours later we had clean, dry sheets, clothes etc.  Our ‘friends’ things still tumbling about.  Technically he only did ‘one load’ though. 

Jim climbed the mast and reattach the antenna wire.  We consumed more Painkillers.  We also hired Mr. Bunn and his taxi to drive us to the Bubbly Pool on the other side of the island.  The drive itself was breathtaking.  The ‘taxi’ (minivan) was a bit …. rough.   The door left open for easy exit.   We had to walk the last 1/2 mile on foot, the van was not able to get traction on the extremely steep hill due to wet pavement from the morning rain.  No worries.  Off we went, on foot.   A mile plus later… (people who don't walk much grossly underestimate walking distances) we were warmly greeted at Foxy’s Taboo, the counterpart to the downtown establishment. 

   

Road Town Tortola, BVI

The Bubbly Pool is a natural pool in which the ocean dumps 10’s of thousands of gallons of sea water into it with each wave.  Water is forced through a narrow opening, and must negotiate  in and around numerous boulders causing it to froth and bubble.  It eventually enters the pool area.  It was THE BEST Bubbly Pool any of us had even experienced!!!   However, it was also the only one we had ever experienced.  Their was little in the way of wind, an important factor in how bubbly the pool gets.  Today, the bubbly action was pretty tame.  We were the only ones there and it felt very peaceful though.  

Each day morning and night the ‘ice man’ comes by via boat, cruisers purchase if needed.  The marring are operated in the same manner.  An agent comes by and collects the daily rate, $30 U.S.  

buoys  trying to keep the cargo ferry afloat

Road Town, Tortola, BVI

Nov. 12 - 13

Off to Tortola, Road Town, BVI.  We needed to refuel and take on water.  We also all wanted some time to explore so we took a slip of the night.  All services are meters on the islands like fuel typically is.  You pay for what you use.  We bought a few fresh supplies.  Got caught up on family contacts and finalized our flights home Dec 1 - 15.  A walk about town found a small but bustling city.  *Total population of ALL the islands: 25,000.  Like Jost Van Dyke, they drive on the other side of the road.  Here it means something though.  Lots of traffic… Jost Van Dyke’s main street is sand… The streets are not laid out in a linear fashion.  They twist and curve.  It was relatively clean for a bigger Island city.  We found a decent grocery, shared a pint of ice-cream.  Found a marine store for a few bolts and Sunny Carrib, a local shop making and selling spice blends and sauces.   

native visitors

Great Harbor, Anegada, BVI

Nov  13 - 15

A very interesting island, unlike the others in the area.  It’s highest point only 28 feet.  It is ringed by reefs and sandy beaches.  Our approached sent a sobering reminder to follow channel markers and watch depths.  A cargo ferry was barley visible, nearly submerged, having hit one of the reefs a week ago.  It was heavily laden, carrying provisions for the island: food, as well as fuel, lumber and a Jeep!  The police were patrolling it’s perimeter, a tugboat was tied to it attempting to free it.  It was finally towed off the afternoon of the 14th, a afloat, sort of, in the harbor.  

Berry IN his office

We paid our mooring fee to Barry, he having motored out with his office.  He is quite the ambassador for the island.  He was featured on last seasons tourist guide.  

Spiny Lobster

We toured the island via rental jeep and had a blast.  The island is 15 square miles, about 10 long, the east end inaccessible.  There are several salt ponds where pink flamingos are said to frequent.  Unfortunately they were at the east end on our visit.  

There are reefs for snorkeling just off shore every where. The white beaches are first class, although quite a few had an abundance of sargassum seaweed.  With the rising ocean temps it has flourished and become a bit of a problem, smothering the other vegetation and corals, rolling on shore with the tides.   

prepping dinner

We stopped by to see the Anegada Iguana Sanctuary.  It was closed today but we were able to see a few in cages through the gate.  They are highly endanger, native to the island.  Feral cats make a quick meal of the newly hatched ones, the cause of their decline.  The island gets help from several U.S. universities to capture pregnant female and collect eggs during ‘season’, bringing them to the sanctuary and raising the babies(?)  till large enough to deter their predators.  

We found a fantastic beach at Loblolly Bay, coupled with Big Bamboo Bar and Grill, we spent the afternoon quite pleasantly.  Jim snorkeled but reported the corals are quite dead, a few fish still hanging on though.  

LOTS of lobsters

What could make this day any better?… finding out our newest grand child has just arrived!  Natalie Rose joined her family Nov 14, just after 1 am … we will be meeting her on our return to the states very soon!

endangered Anegada Iguana

Nearly every restaurant here features the local Spiny Lobster as well as conch.   The lobsters are quite long and leggy but have no claws.  The meat is found in the body, uninterrupted through to its tail.   This island area is said to provide all the ‘islands’ with this delicious treat, if you like that sort of thing… Conch shells line the paths of nearly every restaurant as well.  Thousands of them.  

yummm

Bob selecting beverages 

  We sampled the lobster at Anegada Reef Hotel.  Pre order by 4pm, 5 at the latest (island time)… The previous day I had watched ‘the lobster man’ clean several lobsters.  Using a machete, he speared it to kill it, then with quick action he chopped the long spiny limbs off, feather out the gills, chop chop, and then the spindly part of the antennas.  Very skillfully it was then hacked in half, cleaned and set aside.  To prep for eating, the shell part is surrounded in heavyaluminum foil, the meaty area open and face up.  At the appointed time, it is doused in butter and garlic, placed on a flaming grill of wood.  Lid down, it is left for about 25 minutes.  It was served with more butter (of course) and lemon.  A side salad, sautéed vegetables and rice with beans. The lobster was incredibly meaty, firm and delicate with each bite.  The scent of the grill just barely detected on the palate.   It was much easier to get to the meat then the East Coast lobsters.  The only ‘work’ was getting the meat out of the antenna section.  A ‘nut’ cracker was employed, a few cracks, pull the shell away and more tasty tidbits.  We ate open air on the beach, tiki torches and candles our source of light.  I nearly finished my half order, the guys managed to eat their entire 2 halves of lobster.  Both claimed they had never before eaten their fill of lobster.  I, not being a seafood fan, am slowing coming around to the fact that fresh seafood, prepared properly is pretty darn good.

the island is 28 feet high... evacuate to ???

Cow Wreck Beach

Salt ponds ... no flamingos 

main street traffic

transaction complete!

Nov 15 - 16

Norman Island

We decided to head for the notorious Norman Island next.  We dropped the mooring ball and headed out, making sure to follow the channel  markers.  The reef behind us, the sails up, a nice stiff breeze to accompany us.      “Inishnee, Inishnee, Inishnee… this is Anegada Reef Hotel, over”  ???? (vhf call)  Yeees?, this is Inishnee…. “good morning sir.  we have your credit card here…”  (Oh bleep!,) … thank you, it will take us a bit to get back to the harbor…. “oh, no problem sir, thank you for dining with us last night…”

Willy T's 

So, the sails came down, and we headed back.   I guess that one last night cap may have hindered our good sense last night.  We had just made the first of the returned trip channel markers when a super kind gentleman in his open fishing boat approached… with our card!  What service…The two boats bucked along side each other in the waves but the transfer was successful.  Very grateful our new friend received a nice tip for his trouble.  

Henry, bar tender at Willy T's

Now, back to the plan…  We had a nice spirited ride for most of the trip.  One quick squall, thank you Jim for staying on deck… 

my happy dance ????

Then the mooring field of The Bight, Norman Island.  The island isn't actually notorious,  but Willie T’s is.  It is quite famous in these parts and world wide, for being a party haven for those that want to cut loose.  Having been duly warned about the sorted shenanigans that go on there from time to time… we ventured forth.  Willie T’s is an old, OLD schooner, well past it’s prime, at anchor, serving up adult beverages and more.  The main deck is open air with a bar near the aft and a galley in the bow.  There is a deck built above the aft section as well.  Rust is very, VERY evident everywhere.  I’m pretty sure the heath and safety codes are substantially more lax here than the states…I did see 4 life vests however.  Our visit saw no more than a number of intoxicated individuals, like most any bar as the evening wears on.  

The bar slide show provide evidence of more explicit activities from past partiers.  A picture is worth a thousands words… there was plenty being said in each.  The tamest images showing topless women jumping into the water… A free tee shirt their prize.  And some really risqué pics.  Naked bodies galore sporting: whip cream, tattoos, piercings…  We opted to pay for our purchases instead of ‘winning’ them.

Observation: most of the boats we have seen here in the BVI’s are catamarans from charter companies and they are big… very few monohulls…  

Nov 16  back to the US…

We decided to move on to the U.S. Virgin Islands today.  Bob has a flight home Friday so we will be working our way toward the island of St. Thomas.  We needed to check out of the BVI’s first however so we choose Soper’s Hole, Tortola.  Papers in hand, we went to customs and waited our turn.  Short version…

Agent: why do you have the pink paper ? !

Jim: I was given this when checking in at Jost Van Dyke

Agent: when was this?

Jim: one week ago today

Agent: let me see …. You did NOT go to immigration !

Jim: I paid the fees and got the paper work signed…

Agent:  You did not go to Immigration…. 

mumble, mumble, mumble… papers shuffled  

Agent: sir, this is a felony, one year in prison and a $1,000 dollar fine …each

   * my attention is peeked!

Jim: I apologize… I thought I had completed the necessary tasks.

Agent: Sir, we will over look it this time, but next time ? …

   *So, it seems we had kind of been in the country illegally.

Agent: go next door, see immigration, bring me back the paperwork… 

O K…

Immigration: stamp, papers shuffled,  ‘please pay the fee sir, one U.S. dollar.  

*We paid cash.  Insert happy face!!! 

Back at customs, all is well.  Reprimand noted.  Lesson learned.  Fees paid.  Passports stamped.. 

FYI: it just so happens that the official from the original checkin at Jost Van Dyke was sitting at the deck while all this transpired… His signature on some of the papers… Jim showed great restraint in not pointing this out…

another squall

On to the U.S. Virgin Islands…

A quick hop to the next island, St. John: Cruz Bay to check in to the U.S.  7 miles.  We tied to the customs dock and proceed to the entrance.  All on board must be present.  Jim filled out the necessary paperwork while Bob and I were ‘checked’ by security… then sent on our way.  Jim followed shortly after, pretty sure we obtained the correct papers, stamps etc… 

Next stop, a mooring ball provided (for a fee) by the U.S. National Park Service.  A beautiful bay.  A resort on shore.  St. Thomas on the horizon, twinkling away.  A quick couple of rain squalls.  Dinner.  Quiet time.  

From St. John’s we made the quick passage to St. Thomas.  Objectives: Bob leaves from here in a couple of days and we need to research options for leaving Inishnee for 3 weeks while we are off island visiting family, etc… We had hoped to reserve a spot at Compass Point Marina but they were full up and don’t know if / when their current slip holders will be leaving… We tried several other marinas with no luck.  Looking around it was evident that most of the anchored boats were in much disrepair although they were home to a number of individuals.  Having anchored in the unprotected bay: security as well and wind break; we gave up.  Plan B… Head to Charlotte Amalie the next bay / town over.  

We anchored in the sheltered harbor, and went ashore.  Charlotte Amalie is a much bigger town.  Right away we noticed numerous live aboard’s, monohulls.  Less derelict than the last harbor at least.   One of the live aboard’s, Krissy, gave us information about the area.  Although crime isn't rampant, take some precautions.  Dig out the dinghy cable and lock.  We choose The Shipwreck for dinner and drinks and INTERNET !!!  As we were about the leave we were introduced to Bud and Boner… and his owner… Quite a pair.  

Bud has hopes to give Boner a Facebook identity wants it to go viral… Like Grumpy Cat and Chris P. Bacon… ‘They’ were quite entertaining for the first 10 minutes… then not so much.  We had to pry ourselves away from the pair… 

Willy T's ....

Bob headed off to the other side of the island today, Wednesday, splurging on a hotel with a ‘proper’ shower and head for his last couple days of vacation.  He leaves for home and his family Friday morning.  We are so grateful for his help and company the last four weeks.  Good friends are indispensable.  

Next up for us, the slip search continues … We made a lot of inquiries but nothing solid yet for either a boat sitter or a slip that won’t break the bank.  

Following one of our leads for a marina, we took the dinghy to Crown Harbor Marina to check on availability.  A 20 minute ride, spotting several sea turtles on the way.  As we made our way to the dinghy dock we spotted our friends “Splash”… They had just arrived the day before.  Jim and Cindy along with crew Ted and John left the day before we did from Oriental, NC with plans to meet in Jost Van Dyke… They experienced some very heavy seas and their weather guy suggested they divert to the Dominican Republic, which they did.  They rested up, took care of some personal business and set out again, making a few stops along the way at the Spanish Virgin Islands.  It was terrific to catch up with them and share stories.  We hope to make a few new ones with them over the next few months as we bop along these lovely diverse islands.