Yang was here ! ...

January 2016

Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, USVI

Pussers at Soper's Hole

Yang is here!  We spent the first night rolling around in Charlotte Amalie harbor enjoying Yang’s company.  The next morning we headed for St. John’s Maho Bay, a huge sea turtle surfaced in time to greet us.  Yang and I enjoyed the afternoon afloat in our noodle chairs followed by Painkillers.   A bonus treat, 4 dolphins made their way through the harbor, the only we have seen while being in the Caribbean.  

The next morning we headed for Soper’s Hole, BVI’s.  Jim checked us in to customs / immigration then we headed to shore.  Pusser’s Bar / Restaurant stop number one; beverages and lunch.  Their dessert menu comes in the form of an old fashioned View Finder.  We checked out the dive shop and purchased new snorkel gear.  Our quest for a micro chip for our chart plotter was a wash, we’ll have to go to Road Town, Tortola, the closest supplier.  Our night in Sopers Hole was uneventful, a bit of wind, several dogs yapping at each other to break up the monotony of the silence (all night long)…  goats grazing on the hillside helping to defoliate the steep mountain terrain.  

Dessert ?  

What more might you need? 

Limin' the afternoon away 

Next stop, Norman Island.  

Norman Island is owned by Dr. Rich Bass Tee ‘ard… or something like that…

Population 1 … whom we met on his evening rounds to collect the mooring fee. Him,  “30 dollars…”  (no greeting or otherwise)… Jim, ‘so, are you the one resident?’  Him, “yeah.  my wife and kid came in today though.  30 dollars…”  …  He doesn’t seems versed in the island greetings as yet.  

At the famous Willey T's

Secured to a mooring ball we lazed away the morning and afternoon reading, napping and swimming.  Happy hour upon us, we headed for WiIlly T’s.  Fun and debauchery already in session, we sat back to watch the show.  Willy T’s is a 100 foot retired schooner, now at anchor serving as a bar and entertainment establishment.  Almost anything goes while aboard.  We were treated to several young ladies cutting loose, enjoying shots from the portable Surf Board Bar.  We enjoyed a few Painkillers ourselves then took our leave.  While boarding the dinghy 2 young men were fishing for Blue Runners on the dock.  They used leftovers from someones lunch and a hand reel.  It took only seconds for the fish to chomp the bait and be hauled in,   fresh fish for their dinner. 

a Blue Runner (fish)

We cast off our painter line from the dock in time to see several of the elusive White Boobies known to frequent Willie T’s.  Although they are not as graceful while diving as the local Brown Boobies they were still fun to watch.

the elusive White Boobies

We migrated to Pirate Bight, a manufactured beach restaurant opposite Willy T’s.  Everything including the sand was imported to create this little oasis.  We had the pleasure of getting aquatinted with Sophia, or server.  She was born in Jamaica, moved to Canada for a year, decided snow was not her thing so she returned to the Caribbean and now lives on Tortola, traveling to Norman Island daily, working at Pirate Bight.  Evening approaching, we headed home.  

Yang and Sofia

We had a most excellent adventure today, actually several.  First up,  another trip to shore for internet and a quick visit to the dive shop to hire a diver to fill in the last divot from the skinny water a week ago.  Danielle and her dive gear went with Jim to the boat while Yang and I were treated to coffee from Sofia at the restaurant.  The dive / fix complete, we then grabbed our snorkel gear and headed to The Caves, a few minutes by dinghy.  We tied to the dinghy mooring line and took the plunge.  There are 3 main caves accessible only by water, one of which goes quite deep into the cliffside.  Yang took the lead and continued until we could no longer see anything in the water and were bumping the cave walls as well as the submerged floor.  It was kind of spooky but also exhilarating to be very much out of our element.  The reef was pretty good, the sea life quite varied, a number of large parrot fish chomping away at the coral.  The return trip to the dinghy was the highlight of the underwater adventure for me… a sea turtle munching away on the sea floor, paying no mind to the gawkers lurking above it.  Our fingerers thoroughly puckered and a slight chill setting in we retreated to the dink.  

High atop Norman Island 

Over looking the Bight  harbor

My boarding skills not having improved over the last few dips, I was glad to have a partner (Yang) who was equally skilled in boarding as I was.  It took several tries each with the aid of a rope ladder to finally free ourselves from the watery domain.  Back aboard Inishnee we rested and had some lunch.  Jim took a quick look see at the dive / repair job.  Unfortunately Danielle’s patch skills weren't sufficient and the patch fell off.  

a 'Turpentine' tree

Jim suggested we head to shore for a late afternoon hike.  Norman Island is said to be the inspiration for Robert Louis Stephenson’s Treasure Island… We grabbed water and headed out.  We threaded our way a up and around the mountain trails, stopping at the clearings to admire the vistas.  The heat was no match for the amazing views, looking south at this turn, the open Atlantic, looking north at the next, the Caribbean Sea with it’s many mountainous islands on the horizon.  Along the way we saw several hermit crabs (what are they doing so far above sea level?), a few crazy big colorful caterpillars, spiders, butterflies and Turpentine Trees along with plenty of green, flowering vegetation.   We finally had to reel Jim back in and force an about face to head for home before dark.  One of the good things about living on a boat, the ‘return trip’ from an excursion is always downhill.  We took a quick breather at the shore then head home.   

Painkillers to ward off any acquired ailments from the day’s adventures.  Dinner and star gazing.  Boaters midnight long gone by the time we called it a night.  

hiking to the Bubbly Pool

Mangroves 

What’s next?  We decided to head to Jost Van Dyke, Diamond Cay.  There was no wind, the seas were flat which made it easy to see a few large sea turtles along the route.  We tied to a mooring ball, grabbed a bite to eat then off to the Bubbly Pool.  It did not disappoint!  It was like a cauldron with the north swell barreling through the rock channel that makes the Bubbly Pool bubble.  We played in the pool for quite a while then lounged on the small beach which we had to ourselves for a good hour.  By the time we decided to head back there were several other bubble seekers venturing into the pool.  The path to is filled with plenty of interesting things.  A salt pond, large volcanic boulders, poisonous trees and mangroves.  A shallow impassable reef with northern waves breaking the surf.  Goats grazing free range.  

The Bubbly Pool

Yang went for a snorkel along the reef which lines the shore.  Reporting back: lots of sea life happily swimming about.  We finished the evening sitting on the front deck, tummies full.  The skies alight with stars.  We each witnessed our own shooting star.  Our discussions rambled between family, future plans and world issues, which we were remarkably successful in solving a number of world problems as the night wore on.    

Waves crashing on the reef

our last night out 

With Yangs departure the 11th, we decided to spend our last evening together at Village Cay Marina, Road Town, Tortola. We enjoyed desalinating in the marina showers, 7 minutes per token. Dinner at Pussers, known for their rum.  

Late the next morning we wandered about town be fore Yang caught the ferry to Charlotte Amalie, then flew home.  Just off the main drag we found a small, interesting museum on island life past and present.  Displays included pottery, baskets and photos as well as a selection of volcanic rocks that make up the island chain.  

We finally had to say our goodbyes as see Marianne (here real name) off to the chilly north.  Temps reporting to be hovering in the 20’s in the Chicago area.  brrr.  It was great visit, she is a gracious guest and super company. 

bye Yang !