April 24 - May 2
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| Nice Catch ! |
The Grenadines
Mayreau, Salt Whistle Bay
an Eclipse, several full moons, 4 and 20 Black birds (no pie)…
The passage from Bequia to Mayreau brought good wind for sailing, making a few amps for the energy bank. We reefed the main and kept the jib short for a while till the winds tapered off enough to unfurl it. Within short order Jim spotted a huge turtle, shell estimated to be all of 4 feet across. It was slow to dive so we got a good look at it, nearly as many critters and plants on its back as Inishnee has on its hull. Another, spotted on the starboard side just under the surface swimming frantically away from the boat. We crossed into deeper water (1,000+ feet) and it was time to toss the rubber squid overboard to see it dinner could be found. The sails set, the crew comfortable, Jim headed to the bow sit and let the waves cool his feet. Dolphins! 2 dolphins quickly crossed the bow and headed west.
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| leave nothing but footprints.... |
Boobies, Frigates and Flying Fish kept us company as usual. Zing! Fish on! Jim set the hook and we rolled in the head sail to cut our speed from over 6 knots to 1.5, the main still working. The catch stayed deep, a good sign, tuna dive deep, barracuda tend to stay near the surface. It took over 20 minutes to reel it in. Jim worked up a sweat. With it finally next to the boat we had a huge surprise… a shark. Around 4 foot. Beautiful copper color and lots of teeth… Not wanting gaff it, ensuring its death, I went for the rum. Rum quiets the fish temporarily so they can be handled with little danger to crew or catch. Not waiting for the rum, Jim thought the shark was played out so he wrapped the line around his gloved hand to get a better grip to bring it aboard, we have no net. Big, BIG mistake. The shark was most defiantly NOT played out and with a burst of desperate energy it writhed and twisted and the line sliced through the gloves, Breaking free, the shark took the bait, hook and leader… Jim’s fingers still intact! If he hadn't been wearing gloves he would most likely have lost a few fingers… Lesson learned.
Mayreau just ahead, we furled that sails and motored into the bay, staying to the center to avoid the coral reefs either side. Mayreau is a very small, quiet island, a few miles round, rimmed with sandy beaches and coral reefs. Very picturesque. The larger dominant hilly island is joined to a much smaller hill by an isthmus. The windward side of the isthmus a haven for kite surfers, the leeward side protected and serene, a cruisers haven. The waters around the island are part of the Tobago Cay Marine Park, the Tobago Keys just off the windward Atlantic side. 
A few unsuccessful attempts at anchoring in the heavy grass bottom, we took a mooring ball. We backed down on the ball at 1500 rpms making sure the mooring line would hold. It did. Next, Jim dove to inspect the condition of the mooring tackle and anchor setting. The shackles, lines and concrete were in good shape. The mooring attendant, Forty (his nick name), later told us the moorings are government installed and inspected regularly, the concrete anchors sunk in the sand by means of air pressure to excavate an area to accommodate the enormous concrete blocks.
Many cruisers are indignant and put off by harbors using mooring balls. We LOVE them. They protect the very fragile ecosystems. *Soon after arriving, another boat attempting to anchor for a second time, discovered a huge piece of coral lodged in the tines. We have seen sooo many charters boats drop the hook and call it good, later to find their boat adrift, endangering it and others in its path. We have found most moorings safe and well maintained. They are usually very reasonable at 40 - 60 EC’s… 15 - 20 dollars a night. Priceless if you want to sleep easy. This also supports the local economy which is largely based on tourism, a short 6 month season…
As usual the boat vendors were willing to provide services for yachties bringing produce or bread or disposal of trash. Ashore, there is very little to offer in this bay. The town is up and over the hill near Saline Bay. Here, a few shacks selling beverages or a shoreside meal; fish, conch or lobster with provisions… the local term for sides of rice with beans and salad of some sort, music of course included. A group of ladies hang their tee shirts and sarongs hoping for a sale… Unlike the northern Leeward island group, the vendors in the Windwards are non aggressive.
We hiked to the “village” *I could find nowhere in the guide book referencing it by name. Preached atop the highest hill is the Catholic church. Built in the early 1900’s, overlooking the Tobago Cays. It’s courtyard has a replica of a “wattle and daub’ house, a slave house. The slaves and their descendants were not allowed to own / build any permanent structures which continued until the 1970’s; they lived in wattle and daubs… mud and stick built structures, often destroyed during storms. Continuing down the hill, every other home has a shop to sell something, a few clothes, beverages or snacks. The village is set on the slope of the hill leading to and from Saline Bay. Goats and dogs mingling together blatting or barking occasionally. 
There was little need to watch out for traffic, the island has fewer than 10 autos. One road, more or less paved, with side streets of gravel and debris. We also don't have to be concerned about which side they drive on since the road is one lane wide…
Another hike took us to the top of the small hill over looking Salt Whistle bay and the isthmus. Kite surfers taking advantage of the winds on the windward side. Wanting a closer look, we headed to Kite Beach (I named it!). As many as 9 at one time skating across the windblown surface. Several of the kiters playing for the camera, showed off their skills. Getting lots of air time and doing tricks; flipping, turning and jumping, boards hanging on by their finger tips while sailing high in the air as they made their turns.
If you know were to look it’s possible to see the resort complex Salt Whistle Bay Club. If not, you would surely miss it although it is only steps from the beach. Cabins nestled in the palms, the restaurant made of island stone and palm thatch roofs, each private table hidden in the same fashion.
Our neighbors of late of been French. The big cats coming and going, the morning exodus starting just after daybreak, a lull through the afternoon, then new arrivals barreling in to drop the hook in time for sundowners. Although the celestial calendar says the moon is waxing… their is no shortage of full moons. Swimming, diving, washing, snorkeling… all within the realm of less is best in the fabric department.
The boobies, brown of otherwise, have been scarce however. Taking their place are the black birds. They have developed a taste for cruiser cuisine and at any and every opportunity will board a boat and seek out a bit of leftovers. Their calling cards are of the most unpleasant description. They do not hesitate to dart through any open port in search of their quest. Flashback: our dear friend Carrie back home training her dogs to not do something …hmmm, I remembered I had a squirt bottle below… It in hand, I climbed through the companion way and gave a squeeze to prime the nozzle… lucky shot! I managed to strike a black bird on the rail… the bird took flight and as startled as I was as this new prospect. The bottle is now part of our cockpit gear.
Mayreau Regatta!
We just happened upon Mayreau during their annual regatta. 4 days of competition fishing, sailing and fun. Forty took us around the island in his open boat taxi to Saline Bay and day one of the festivities. A fishing contest; the biggest catch, the most (weight) catch winning prize money. We saw thousands of fish being brought in. The Red Hind (a type of grouper) with it’s bug eyes was a sight. The fishermen emptied there weighed bags for counting. Even after capture, the Red Hind appeared to have tried to eat any and all fish in the boat… each mouth gorged with another fish, size didn't matter, bringing to mind the saying… eyes too big for your belly.
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| Nancy and Kathy |
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| Start of race... |
The evening events included the Lion Fish Cooking Competion and Miss Mayreau Pageant.
Day 3, the regatta. First, the youth race in small dinghies. Shove off from shore, sail around a couple of buoys and return to shore… Next, the teens and adults. There were 3 classes of boats. The competing boats came from several surrounding islands. All wooden, hand made double enders (pointy at both ends). Todays course took them out and around the reef and south around Catholic Island (out of sight) and back. Start from shore, 3 boats in each size / age class with staggered starts. Eclipse, the largest boat, having come from Bequia had no competition in it’s size class. Sand bag for boat ballast, boat fenders for flotation in the bows. Several boats capsized as they came about at the reef buoy and had to bail a LOT of water to right the boats, one was towed home by the coast guard.
Lunch today… pig tails! Tasty enough but not much meat.
Day 4. The conclusion of the events brought nearly the entire village (250 +/- people) as well as neighboring islanders. The beach was crowded with people by noon. Music blaring, fish, pork and chicken of the grills. Many beer stands went up over night, selling Hairoun and Presidente’ (local beer).
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| Captain's duty |
Todays races had a most unusual twist. The course took them around buoys close to shore. The spectators could see the entire race. The harbor had over a dozen anchored boats making the course a bit more challenging; the contestants having to weaving in and around them. The racers shoved off from shore when their appointed departure time was called… out and around the buoys, return to shore… the captain then jumps out, runs to the announcers table and guzzles a beer or soda, depending on age, while the crew turns the boat and awaits his return…then they repeat the course… beaching the boat upon the completion of the second leg.
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| Jim on Elipse coming in from the race |
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| Jim hanging on before hauling the boat on shore |
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| Working the trapeze |
I helped a bit with the arts and crafts for the children’s booth; kids could color, paint, make jewelry, dig for treasure in the sand pit. I was asked to judge the art contest, prizes were awarded for various categories. Again, Nancy was in the thick of things, corralling kids and dishing out hugs and ensuring they all had a memorable experience.
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| Capsize ! getting towed in |
Having stayed on Mayreau for over a week, it was time to explore new territory. We hiked to town for bread and said good by to friends … Philip, Iceland, Righteous Robert, Nancy and Forty…
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| a tough way to finish a race ... |
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| junior races |
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| atop the hill over looking Saline Bay |
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| you're welcome |
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| Eclipse and Jim with the capsized boat in to left |
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| and the winner is .... |
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| competition from Bequia |
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| the walkway along Salt Whistle Bay |
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| Righteous Robert |
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| getting ready .... |
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| Tobago Cays from atop the hill behind the church A water cistern in the foreground |
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