SV Inishnee: Tobago

Tobago…

December 1, 2016

- Jan 3 2017

Store Bay anchorage
Thanks for the great shot Laura!

Tobago and Trinidad are one country but very different islands. Tobago is small and intimate, yet modern and progressive … and very, very clean; the streets, drinking water, rivers, even the street gutters. Our anchorage outside of Store Bay was home to several international cruisers: Russians, Austrians, Germans, Swedes and of course Americans. Many landing here crossing the big pond.

We became quite acquainted with the medical community while in Store Bay. Jim and I both picked up a bug in Guyana. Just over a week on meds for me and I was good to go but Jim’s infection settled in his arm, most likely through a small cut. After being on 2 different antibiotics with little change, our latest doctor / visit recommended surgically lancing his giant ‘goose egg’ infected forearm to drain the yuck. More meds and a few more days of rest, he was finally on the mend, it was time to explore….

*one afternoon, between doctor visits, we were siting in the cockpit, at anchor, when we felt the boat hull shudder; twice. Could we have bumper the bottom? no. Did something; a whale? hit the boat… no. An Earth Quake? … ! We called friends on the next boat and asked them if they had felt anything unusual… they had. A short time later, the internet confirmed that a 5.4 mag earthquake had happened off the coast of Tobago. No tsunami, no injuries. Another new experience for the books.

Island Tour

We, along with our friends Laura and Jason, aboard s/v Blue Blaze, hired Mr. Piggy to give us a tour of the island. Mr. Piggy offers his services for anything you might want / need… ‘a taxi, I get you a taxi. I know the best restaurant, you check it out.’… or a tour guide.

The Big Tree :
pic by Blue Blaze

He arranged for his cousin to pick us up in his van, Mr. Piggy in the passenger seat, we started our exploration of the island. What we didn't realize was the amount of herbage that would accompany our tour guides, the island vision of Cheech and Chong. We drove up and over and around the island. The roads that traverse the upper reaches of the mountainous roads are cut along the ridge of the mountain, barely wide enough for one car at time. The canopy of the trees just above eye level. The island is home to The Big Old Tree: immense proportions at its base, its height stunted by the winds gusting across the ridge. The islanders guess it to be a few hundred years old. Tobago’s rainforests have been protected since 1765. The road through the rainforest was unpopulated and filled with bamboo, mist from the clouds rising upwards at every turn. We stopped at several villages and lookout points. Lunch in Charlottesville; fresh fish with garlic sauce generously applied; a condiment with a popularity like Ranch dressing, served in every restaurant. We finished the trip with a stop at the market for a few items then returned home.

Having spent 3 weeks in Store Bay, though much of it was convalescing aboard Inishnee, we were able to meet a number of the locals. Anthony is one of the first people cruisers encounter. His studio is the first tree by Bogo’s Bar, where he paints daily. Local scenes, birds, people. He paints with acrylic on any surface that will hold paint. Scrap wood, bamboo and even our broken paddle base. I commissioned him to paint me a Mot Mot bird on a bamboo container I had on board… he also included a hummingbird…

Water, water, water, water, water…. the water guy (I forgot his name) became a frequent visitor to the beach road along Store Bay. He can be heard calling out : “water, water, water, water, water”… in a melodious voice from down de road… he also sells juices and umbrella. His route is about 2 miles long going through town to the end of the beach road several times a day. He has to be the most fit walker on the island.

And of course, there’s Mr. Piggy… the ‘operator’

Next port, Charlottesville. We had heard about and seen on our tour, the lovely little fishing village on the north side of Tobago. Our friends on Blue Blaze and Honey Rider had already departed Store Bay for Charlottesville. We reported to customs and immigration for clearance from one port to the next. The passage was very lumpy with big swells. A slog into the waves but the charming village was well worth the lumps. Charlottesville is a small, traditional fishing village that recognizes the importance the cruisers play to their economy as well as the tourists. Few amenities for the city type but huge on authenticity. A warm welcome by Blue Blaze and Honey Rider made us feel at home.

One the many locals, Dash, welcomed us as well and inquired if we would like to go fishing with him on his open boat? Tom of Honey Rider, having done it the previous year, highly recommended the experience. We made plans for the next day. Dash, nick name and boat, came to pick us up early the next morning but with caution. BIG waves today… You still want to go? Some contemplation and we decided, ah, what the heck we have no other plans… I packed a life jacket just in case and we boarded “Dash” following instructions… “don’t step on the lines in bottom of the boat… mama (me) you sit here, dad (Jim) you sit up front.

London Bridge

Dash, the boat, is rigged with two long line bamboo outriggers on each side mid ship, and 2 tow lines behind. We rounded low rock point and went full on onto the waves, the 40 hp outboard powering through the 8 foot surf. Dash standing in the rear the entire time; 3 hours! His leg muscles the size of tree trunks. He has a bit of a routine, passing on the outside of the small islands bordering the north end of Tobago: London Bridge and arched rock where waves blast through and farther on Marble, Saint Giles and Melville islands. At just the right moment, cut the helm and come about (without getting swamped) and reverse course. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Several other fishermen followed us out, their locations visible only if we were each on the crest of a wave before being swallowed in the trough again. We caught no fish, none of the other fisherman did either, but it was an incredible experience.

A painting of the Mot Mot

A few days later, Dash agreed to take us on a hike to see the Mot Mot bird, a local species of many colors. It prefers the forest so first we needed to trek up the hill / mountain side of town to get to the path. At 58, Dash (William) is in incredible shape. When not on holiday (Christmas and New Years) he works for the road crew, another very physical job. He hardly broke a sweat while we panted and dripped our way along. ‘Mama, take your time, no hurry.’ he says to me often. As soon as we entered the forest path, a Mot Mot flew to a branch over head. It is absolutely one of the most colorful and beautiful birds ever created. Please, google it and see for yourself… We spotted numerous other native birds as we continued our climb into the forest then further along through the bamboo. Nearing the top of the ridge and the cell towers that stand watch over the village we decided we needed to make our retreat with the fading light.

Christmas was hosted by Honey Rider: Tom and Sabrina. Guests included Inishnee’s crew as well as Blue Blaze. Each boat contributing to the banquet. Lobster, ham and roast chicken accompanied by several sides, followed by deserts. Our beverages topped off, conversations continued long after our bellies were filled.

Between holidays, Jason and Laura hosted a ‘fish talk’ aboard Blue Blaze. Jason is a marine biologist, which has taken them all over the world exploring the ocean depths, working with NOAA and other reputable agencies documenting ocean life as well as helping with reef restoration. Jason’s presentation was geared for us, the novice snorkeler / diver. Most of the images he shared were taken by Jason or Laura. While in Charlottesville, a whale shark actually brushed the side of the their boat... What a welcome! The following day we were in the water and ready to investigate the reef with our enlightenment. Following their tips for searching out and identifying we could identify numerous critters previously hidden to us.

Meeting up with Dash again on shore he took us to the tackle shop to make purchases for our island fishing gear. Several rubber squid, huge hooks, 200 pound test line, steel leaders and lots of weights. Sitting on the jetty, Dash put together our new ‘guaranteed to catch fish’ hand line. ?Not sure how this is going to work on a sailing boat… but, we have several rigs ready for testing. The local method uses nothing mechanical, once the fish is hooked, it is hauled in hand over hand (over 200 feet of line out) and tossed into the boat. Usually mahi mahi or tuna, sometimes barracuda or king fish; good eating but hundreds of razor sharp teeth. Dash’s leg attested to the sharpness of the teeth with a scar several inches long. We told him of the ‘rum’ trick to quiet a rambunctious fish… he had never heard of such a thing and got quite a laugh.

While on the pier with Dash and making up the new lines, we saw a number of locals deploying a seine net. The net is pulled out from shore with a fishing boat. The net handlers continue heaving the net over the side, the boat make a large arch and returning to shore with the other end. A few more locals join in and begin pulling the net on both ends. As the net nears shore more and more join in to help pull. As the middle of the net nears the shore the activity in the net begins to become apparent, the thousands of fish being forced together, silver bodies frantic to escape, shimmering and flopping. there were about 15 net handlers. After hauling it to shore, the coolers and baskets appear, handfuls of ballyhoo tossed in. Separate baskets for tuna and jack, the few stingrays caught in the meyllay are tossed into the surf. The event brings out a lot of lookers and a few buyers. The net is owed by one individual who shares the catch with those who helped.

Jason and Laura headed back to Store Bay for New Years Eve. We chose to stay in Charlottesville with Tom and Sabrina to celebrate in Pirates Bay, a beach just off the boat anchorage. It is a rough shore to beach and launch a dinghy from. Tom and Sabrina’s dinghy was tossed by a wave earlier in the week, there motor pummeled through the surf. They righted the craft and were able to get it started, no major damage but a thorough cleaning was needed.

We beached the dinghy without too much trouble, 4 people to lift and haul, we got it above the surf line and tied it securely. Stag, the local beer was passed around, purchased from SonSon’s bar. SonSon is the ‘second’ son of 5 siblings. 2 girls, a ‘son’, 2 girls and another son… his nickname of course had to be SonSon, denoting is birth place. He and his girlfriend Meg offer beers, homemade rum punch and dinners; fish, chicken or lobster with salad and rice sides made on sight. They carry the supplies over the hill from town of bring it by ‘Money Bread’, their boat. Their bar and kitchen are made of scrap wood, bamboo, various pieces of twine and road, a few nails. Corrugated steel sheets for a roof on the ‘kitchen’ and palm fronds over the beach bar seating area. A few old plastic deck chairs and some stumps make up the establishment.

Earlier n the week, Tom, Sabrina, Laura and Jason made a Bamboo Cannon, Son Son their teacher. A Bamboo Cannon is used for create sound, a very loud boom heard for many miles, no projectile. They are traditionally made / used for the Christmas and New Years holiday, then discarded. They account for the 2nd most likely injury on the island… the first, coconuts; falling of hatchet hacking? not sure which.

They cut a length of bamboo about 6 feet long and 8 inches in diameter. The center sections of the bamboo or knocked leaving the last one, the bottom, in tacked. A notch is made near the bottom to allow for kerosene to be poured in. The notched end rests on the ground with the upper part resting on another support of some kind, elevated about 3 feet. It is then heated with a flaming torch while the cannon operator blows into the notch to increase the heat. When the liquid vaporizes, the flame is passed back over the notched opening and the fumes sometimes ignite and a BOOM is created… if everything goes right. Often the fired tender leaves with singed eye brows or facial hair… sometimes worst. Tom, having become a cannon master, got the thing going again and anyone wishing to give it a try was encouraged. Jim a soon a cannon master and created several large cracks for the onlookers.

Sabrina and SonSon having fun

SonSon made the announcement that he had run out of beer! and asked Jim to shuttle him to town to get some. We had warm beer on the boat which Jim offered up so they would not have to got to town. They set of to get it when SonSon announced he needed ice too. So they headed to town anyway. Jim said they may as well get the beer in town since ours was warm but SonSon said he dandy bring enough money… Ok. ? Jim asked, ‘then how were you going to pay for “my’ beer’?… SonSon said… ‘ahhh, we work it out. I get you a fish”… hmmm. Ice purchased, our beer loaded in the dinghy and back to the party… The beer was put on ice and t he cannon provided a bit more entertainment…. Up the path to the ‘bar’ to get the chilled beer and Meg asked for payment. !! ??? Jim says, it’s my beer… Meg says, ‘SonSon says you traded for fish’…. Well, sort of. Island bartering is still a bit of a mystery. So Jim (re)bought our beer and returned to the beach. Later when the group was asked who wanted fish for dinner? Jim decided we’d better place our order to cover the beer exchange…. so we had fish for dinner… which was nicely cooked and seasoned.

As the evening wore on, 2 dutch couples came ashore to celebrate, bring breaks to share. Sausages, wine and champagne for the New Years toast. Then they set off expired flares to light up the sky at midnight… Fireworks cruiser style.

We had a great lime time in Tobago. It is now at the top of our favorite caribbean island list. Just the right size to explore. A nice mix of modern and traditional cultural experiences. Lots of native crafts to collect; calabash bowls and hanging baskets, wood carvings, original paintings, jewelry from natural and man made items.