SV Inishnee: Puerto Rico : Family and Friends

Friends and Family

Cleaning the bottom of the dinghy

March 6 - April 12

We made a dash for St. Thomas with a good weather window, an overnight passage. Our first of 3 sets of back to back guess arriving by plane March 10, Tom. We had a few days to get the boat in order for company; rearranging gear from the aft cabin (garage) into the shower stall (closet). Tom emailed several times during the week preceding his visit requesting information / address for the marina we would be staying in… apparently we did not make it clear we would be at anchor in the bay next to the airport… Jim being a sly one decided to have a bit of fun at Tom’s expense (sorry Tom!) and continually avoided the marina question. We met him at the gate… there is only one in St. Thomas, grabbed his checked bag and headed out into the sunny afternoon. We then told Tom we were in ‘remote parking’ a short walk. Less than a quarter mile and we were at the beach where the dinghy and further out Inishnee awaited. The look on Tom’s face was priceless! Some shock and some amused relief. We suggested he slip into the bushes to change into a swim suit since we were assured of getting wet on the way to Inishnee. It was a wet ride. A bit of a surf, 3 bodies and 2 bags of luggage, we rode low in the water, waves breaking over the bow and us. Welcome to cruising Tom.

Tom's shuttle to Inishnee

Tom (and wife Adriela) have been dear friends for many, many years. We were slip mates back in Michigan for a dozen or so summers. He has since sold his boat but continues to sail on Lake Michigan out of Chicago where he joined a sailing club.

We got him aboard and settled in and had a welcome aboard toast. Then Tom (boat santa) began unloading his ‘Christmas bag’… One of the benefits of having guests visit is we can get things from ‘home’ that we can't get cruising… Tom was eager to accommodate so I made several orders through Amazon and had them delivered to his home. He also brought me a LOT of hard to find single-serving coffee and lemonade packets, jars of anything powder clumps up quickly and become unusable. The christmas table was heaped with booty and my heart full of joy.

enjoying happy hour

The next morning we were off after a quick breakfast, destination The Spanish Virgins: Puerto Rico! Tom had no interest in touring St. Thomas V.I. as he had visited there numerous times. The anchor was hauled in, course set for Culebra, Puerto Rico. The passage was very pleasant. Decent wind. The water turquoise. Waves parting gently on the hull as we clipped along at 5-6 knots.

We dropped the hook in En Senada Honda Bay, Culebra and launched the dinghy. Before heading to shore and customs we stopped by another US flagged ship to secure directions. Upon hearing our boat name one of the crew states ‘I know of another boat named Inishnee, met them 2 years ago in Tobermory, Canada’… ??? ‘Really?’… Reaching deep into the recesses of our memory banks we recalled the encounter ohhh so many miles ago… What a small world we travel in. A quick chat and we were off.

Upgrading the mooring balls : the lighthouse in atop the hill

The customs agents were efficient and helpful. In no time we were good to go. We walked around the area a bit then headed back to Inishnee for dinner and a cocktail.

The next morning we headed for Culebrita, a very small uninhabited island a few miles from Culebra. The moorings free of charge, we took one of the last ones in 10 feet of water and a boats length from shore. Tom was quick jump in the water for a swim. We stayed 2 nights, moving to a mooring in deeper water when the ‘day trippers’ left.

lots of volcanic rocks to cross

Tom and Jim made the arduous hike up to the lighthouse clambering through and over the ense vegetation to get to the top; there is suppose to be a trail according to the guidebook. The views were reported to be spectacular. Seeing no obvious route down they made the return trip through the brush and bramble wishing they had the machete we keep aboard the boat. It was not until the next day on our way to the snorkel beach that the trail to the lighthouse was discovered.

the 'jacuzzi bath'

BOTH flip flops brocken

The snorkeling was fantastic! A large protected reef. Lots of fish and colorful corals. Few visitors. We finished the day with a trek to The Jacuzzi… An boulder strewn inlet with a few pools. The waves crash though creating a bubbling froth to surround you. Unfortunately Jim’s flip flops both gave way just as we reached the volcanic rocky entrance… He managed to get to the first of the pools and called it good. Tom however continued the climb and had the big pool all to himself. Reflecting on our time on Culebrita we were all amazed at the lack of tourist and cruisers. It is a real gem only a short distance from Puerto Rico.

eating ice-cream cruiser style...
one container many spoons

From there we continued on to the island of Vieques. Vieques is unique in that a good portion of the island is used for military purposes and off limits to civilians. This restricted area is a wildlife refuge as well where over a 1000 wild horses have free range.

dinner out

Our first night we stayed in Barracuda Bay, one of several bioluminescent bays found in these islands. We were one of only 3 boats at anchor, the other 2 boats appeared abandoned. Tom, always up for a an adventure, waited patiently for nightfall so he could jump into the bay. Although the bio activity was not spectacular, the outline of his arms and legs sparkled with bio activity if he kicked or splashed.

Next day, new harbor. We took another mooring ball off the village of Esperanza. A trip to shore and a walk about. Lots of tourists and tourists activities; Mosquito Bay being the highlight. Mosquito ‘Bioluminescence’ Bay is an enclosed bio bay, all motorized traffic forbidden. Because the bay has a reef across the entrance to th sea, the concentration of bioluminescence is far greater. This makes for a thriving tourist industry with kayak tours nightly. We had a delightful dinner on shore at the recommendation of David, the harbor host. Cafe del Mar employees a master chef and we were treated to Mahi Mahi for the guys and Chuleta Can Can for me… a fried pork chop with the rib section attached. HUGE! There were lots of leftovers. Mofongo is big here too, in tradition not size. Mofongo is a dish of green plantain, cassava or similar staple, boiled and mashed then shaped into a bowl and served with a filing, usually a stewed / seasoned meat. Interesting but not my favorite.

dock mates

Our last night on Vieques was at Green Beach. Again we are one of only a few boats staying for the night. The waters were lovely. Tom took his last swim / snorkel in the bay, we would be off the next morning for the big island, Puerto Rico.

We took a slip at Puerto Del Rey Marina. Our first dock in over 5 months. Fresh water from a spicket at our disposal, showers without time / quantity restrictions, and take leave from the boat via our own two feet. What a treat!

Jeff and Sue, fellow cruisers, met us at the dock as we coasted in. They would become good friends over the next few weeks. Unfortunately, Tom’s plane was expecting him the next day. He has been great crew and a great friend. Always ready to help: sail handling and trim, launching and hoisting the dinghy or anchor, doing the dishes and any other task he was asked or saw needed to be done.

Tom’s departure was followed by the arrival of family 18 hours later. Alex (son), Nicki (daughter-in-law) and their young daughters Nora (3yo) and Natalie (1yo). We rented a minivan and met them at 5:00 am! The hour ride back to the marina went by quickly with lots to talk about and catch up on. We got them settled aboard, 6 of us now on a 40 foot monohull… it’s going to be GREAT! The girls adjusted quickly to boat life, though not thrilled with having to wear life jackets while in the cockpit in the 80+ degree daily temps. We spent few waking hours on the boat. With the van available to us 24 / 7 we attempted to run the wheels off…

A day in Old San Juan. Most of it spent at the Castillo de San Cristobal Fort. The girls had plenty of acres to run and play, the grown ups took in the views and the history. A late lunch at Raices, a family friendly restaurant with images and artifacts representing colonial times. The food reminiscent of the era. Jim and I took on parenting duty for a day / overnight when Alex and Nicki headed to Vieques for the bio kayak tour. With kids in tow, we toured / drove through the El Yunque National Rainforest, with a long stop at the interpretive center where the girls played and ran till they (and we) were ready for a long nap.

The water falls

Alex with Nora trying to get through the crowd

Upon Alex a nd Nicki’s return we returned to the rainforest and did the hike to Mina Falls. 30 minutes one way; if you aren't carrying 2 toddlers, in a downpour. The falls are big on the cruise ship tour offerings, the trail and pool polluted with people coming and going. Still, a great outdoor experience.

With just a bit of trepidation, we cast off the lines and headed to sea for an afternoon sail. Though the girls were consumed in their PDF’s we were all on guard making sure they didn't stray from our reaches. Poseidon and mother nature were kind to us, the seas flat, the wind gentle and just a bit of cloud cover. A successful journey all crew returned safe and sound to the slip.

We spent several afternoons at nearby beaches, sparsely populate during the week. Food samplings included pinchos (meat kebobs) and wepa- arapas… small deep-fried corn shells filled with pulled pork or chicken. A great bargain, 2 for $6.00.

Marianne, Jim’s sister, was next on the visitor list. We picked her up and headed immediately to Old San Juan. We toured the fort and walked around the old city admiring the architecture. According to the fort personnel, the Spanish were in possession of the island, city and fort. The Dutch came storming into the harbor and before the Spanish could launch an attach they captured the city… but not the heavily fortified fort. They demanded the Spanish surrender the fort or they would burn the city. The Spaniards refused. The city was plundered of anything of any value then burnt to the ground. The Dutch retreated with their booty. In the aftermath the city was rebuilt but of stone and brick The Spanish vowing, they would not suffer the same fate twice.

Our return trip to Fajardo / Puerto del Rey Marina was complicated with afternoon traffic. The 1 hour ride creeped into 3. City traffic has not been missed by the crew of Inishnee.

Our time with Marianne went quickly. We continued the tourist regime with trips to several beaches, the rainforest and the falls, and a road trip across the island. Along with the spectacular mountain passes and bamboo forests we were struck by the density of population in all but the most esteem terrain or government protect (national forests) lands through the island.

The 3 of us took a 2 tank dive which departed from the marina. A swift boat ride took us just off shore to the first dive sight. There were 2 diver masters, 2 dive groups…. too many divers per. We found ourselves bumping or getting bumped often. The waters were murky making visibility poor and only the largest of sea life viewable. The sponges and sea fans were the largest we had ever seen however, sometimes dwarfing us. Dive 2 was better. Turtles were spotted along with eels, barracuda and parrot fish.

With Mariannes departure we were forced to confront reality and get to work on our list of to-do’s… Repaint the nonskid on the deck. Thoroughly clean the cockpit and the cabin areas. Check the standing rigging and install another deck board to carry / support more fuel jugs. We made several trips to the grocery store stocking up and heat and eat / instant meals with canned veggies and fruits. I separated these into 4, one week ration bags for lunches and dinners. These and several other smaller projects are prep for our upcoming ocean passage from St. Martin to the Azores and then on to Portugal and Europe!