Turkey
Kemer to Fethiye
May 2018
After spending a couple of weeks in Kemer we finally unhitched from the dock… berth and headed into the Mediterranean. We choose a pleasant bay a couple of hours motor; no wind, called Inciryalisi Koya. We dropped the hook and backed down to set it in the sparkling clear water. Our first anchorage in over 6 months.
The bay is famous for its proximity to the ancient ruins of Phaselis; 690 bc. Jason and the Argonauts was filmed there in 1999. There are 3 small bays flanked by towering mountains, some still with snow patches. The site includes a large amphitheater, several foundations of buildings. A old stone road connecting the bays and sections of one of the longest aqueducts in the Mediterranean. It is popular with day trippers from Kemer coming for a couple of hours to swim. Captain Fathi with his fine ship The Medus set anchor so we jumped in the dinghy to say a quick hello. He was pleased to see us again and invited aboard to the the remodel. We declined his kind offer; his responsibilities should be to his paying guest. The day bots leave by 2 pm and the bay regains its composure. Quite and serene. A few gullets stop by but they too leave before dark. 
The crown of Mount Olympos also known as Tahtali, and the gondola tram are easily visible from the bay in clear weather, which sparked our desired to see the area from the top of the mountain. We made the several K trek to the highway then another 1 K along the bust road to the entrance gate. A shuttle bus then takes you another 7 K to the base of the lift. It was a short wait for the arriving down cable car. A small group boarded and we road the steep and breathtaking silent ride up, up and up. The peak 2365 meters high. 
A few clouds shrouded the western side of the mountain top, not enough for discourage the paragliders. We watched several teams ( master jumper and passenger) suit up, fill their sail and step off into vapor. They quickly disappeared into cloud cover. We watched several teams before heading in to warm up with a tea and a burger. The observation platform at the very top of the building afforded 360 views. Looking around and down, the bare mountain tops with pockets of snow gave way to a few shrubs then scraggly trees before the hardier pines took over the lower sections of mountain.
 |
| Inishnee is one of the boats anchored in the bay seen from the top of Mount Tahtali |
Back at the lower tram station we were shuttled tot eh highway and for a few more lira back to the entrance to Phaselis. Returned to Inishnee on foot and a quick dinghy ride. 
Wanting to explore again, we hauled th anchor and made the quick motor to Cineviz Limin. A very protected tiny bay. Mountains dropping into the sea surrounding our little watery hamlet. A could of gullets posed in and out. 3 sailing boats at rest for the night. We shared dinner with another boat we had met in Kemmer; Oschi and Fred.
The next morning we set out on foot to cross the isthmus to see what was on the other side. We made out way through the high grass and brush, following a goat path toward the valley cut.
By chance a baby tortoise was spotted in the tall grass, then much to everyones surprise… a viper. A local adder. Poisonous. End of trek! Luckily the ringing in our ears due to the intense screams did not effect our sense of direction as we quickly retreated to the dinghy.
Another dinner shared with friends them we all parted ways, each on to different ports.
We spent a couple of nights at anchor in Cavus Limani. A very small beach town. Single story pensions, shops and restaurants. Dirt roads. Gullets lining the shore waiting for the season to begin. Our neighbors included a coast guard vessel, a few fishing boats, turtles and squid.
Our early morning departure was accompanied by a few dolphins who darted over and disappeared under the bow.
We rounded the point of land and entered the Aegean Sea, continuing to Finike and a marina stop. The very lively and social marina live-aboards quickly greeted us and invited us to join them for their Sunday bbq. Full bellies and conversation. A bit of grog too.
We stayed on for 6 nights. Found some fantastic eateries: Turkish Pizza; thin crust and boat shaped. Meat (?) and cheese. Hot and delicious. A fish restaurant that ALL the locals go to. Good and cheap. So much do that we ate out every night. It was cheaper that purchasing and cooking meals aboard. Ex: 2 pizzas with leftovers and a large bottle of water; less than 5 US dollars. Another night; large grilled fish, calamari, soups, salads, bread and olives with dips. Large water and turkish teas. Less than 20 US dollars. We were stuffed!
 |
| this mosque has a grocery store attached |
Our next big task was to secure a rental car for a 2 day venture to Dalaman and our crew. Tom, aka Santa, would be arriving on a late flight from Chicago for a 2 week visit… and of course all crew are asked to bring supplies from home… Mail, boat parts and usually a few goodies that are hard or impossible to find. Tom was up to the extra challenge of bring replacement solar panels… x2. He duct taped a few lightweight boards to the edges to keep the panels from flexing and even managed to get them aboard as carry on… One looong 11 hour flight then a layover and transfer on to Dalaman.
We drove out of the marina and started the over land… mountainous journey with a few planned stops along the way. The GPS said it would 2.5 hours… not! the roads here are really well maintained and seldom much traffic. The mountain roads: 80 % of the country is mountains… all have passing lanes and many have tunnels making the journey smooth although long at times. Very scenic. Lots of areas of historical importance.
We were particulate amazed at the use of land. The valley flats and less steep terrain is mostly used for agriculture… people food. Few cattle. No pigs. Sheep and goats with shepherds roam the hill sides.... and along the highway
Produce is grown in vast expanses of greenhouses. Miles and miles filling the valleys. Picked when mature and sent off to market. The produce is fresh, ripe and tastes fantastic. It is also incredibly inexpensive.
We stopped at Xanthos, a world heritage site on the way to Dalaman. There is little left of the large old city, the early european explorers pillaged the tombs and took all the artifacts. Some can be found in museums scattered about Europe. What is most impressive about the site were its original inhabitants. When contouring armies attempted to overtake the city, the inhabitants resorted to suicide rather than be taken prisoner of slaves. The young and week were put to death before the more able bodied who intern took their now lives. The ultimate commitment to your values and beliefs. 
We arrived just before dark at our hotel. Showered, napped and had a nice quite dinner. Then the last 6 K to the airport. Tom’s flight was delayed but he ws soon collected, solar panels and all. Back at the hotel we had a few toasts before a much needed sleep…
Up early, breakfast included, we were on our way back to Finike. A few photo stops and and tourist visit to Myra; The site of ancients tombs carved into the side of a mountain, lated the romans built a theater and a city on and around the site. Very impressive much of the structure still standing with some help from the current inhabitants. The entire site flanks one of the larger valleys for agriculture. Hundreds… thousands of green houses butting up to the boarders of the site. 
We continued on through the village, getting a sneak peak at the Church of Saint Nikolas. The REAL St. Nikolas… He was a monk who was reported to have given many families in need food or items to help them secure a better life. His legacy is now what many attribute to the fat red suites man that happens by once a year… under cover of darkness
Unless, he comes in the form of crew named Tom…
Back aboard we caught up on family and friends before Tom unloaded his bag… goodies for all! Inishnee got a new deck light, the galley got new storage containers and treats. Kathy some lovely earrings and a beautiful scarf from Adriela… Toms wife. Jim a book written by Toms and Adriel’s son Alexander. Thank you both for the gifts… and your friendship.
But, Tom is here to SAIL… but; we probably should have been more clear about this… If you want to sail… go to the Caribbean; if you want to cruise, go to the Mediterranean. The winds here are unreliable.
We provisioned the boat with fresh produce and meats including lamb from the butcher cut from the shank. We might not sail but we will eat well.
Much to our surprise, the wind piped up and gave us a nice day one sail to our first anchorage; Karaloz. Tom kept the lookout on the bow for the ‘conspicuos’ cave sited in
the guide book. It would mark the entrance to the bay.
Fortunately for Kathy, Tom loves the water and quickly volunteered to swim the mooring line to shore. It is common proactive in most bays drop the anchor then back down on it as you back up to shore then secure the aft of the boat to a rock via 2 separate lines in a V from the stern of the boat to prevent swing. This allows several boats to occupy the very small bays.
Tom met the challenge even in the brisk wind that was now pushing the boat ever closer to shore. With a lot of mighty and even more determination he wrangled the boat into position and was able to relax with a swim around the deserted bay. Cristal clear water. Sea turtles and squid. Schools of minnow like fishes.
A couple hours later a gullet of around 75 foot expertly maneuvered in, dropped their anchor nestled in next to us. The very skilled lady captain gained our respect and admiration immediately. They stayed for a few hours then left the bay to us… and the goats. we would discover that every land mass we anchored near was inhabited with goats and a few places donkeys roamed about too.
The next anchorage proved a bit more challenging. A HUGE gullet was anchored stern in tot eh small sand bay with a sailboat on either side. One skinny little slot for us between a boat and an underwater rock reef with the stone walls a few feet away. Tom again jump in and swam the lines to shore. We had to reposition several times because we were precariously close to the reef, swinging over it and back put again. With multiple lines tied to gather we we're finally able to law with our ‘arrival beverage’… Efes beer for the guys and a Strongbow cider for Kathy.
The gullet left in the early hours the next day as did on of the other sail boats. Jim and Tom hike as far up the cliff as possible before retreating. They offered pictures to the neighboring sailboat taken from their climb featuring the boat afloat in the bay. Jay thanked them and asked if we would like simulator pictures… from his drone! YES… PLEASE
The next anchorage took us past the ancient sunken city near Simena which was destroyed by an earthquake. We secured Inishnee, had a bite to eat then launched Craic, dinghy for exploration. We were abel to get within a few yards of the remaining walls of the city. We drifted over the sunk foundations.
We then went ashore to the mainland and climbed up to the remains of a former castle. Great views of the area.
Back at the shore we had a beverage to cool off and fresh calamari. The proprietor even gifted Kathy with a huge bag of basil from the dozens of pots throughout the dinning area. An afternoon nap followed by another excursion to the local village. We choose Hans’ fish restaurant for dinner. The guys selected the fish which Hans swiftly scaled and gutted. His wife presented us with grilled eggplant. Tom and Kathy found a few fabric items to purchase from one of the local women vendors.
 |
| Evita, captained by Merve |
On to Kas (Kash)…. A lovely city at the sea shore built on the hills that meet the mountains. We wondered around before resting at the sea shore. Kathy continued on editing the gullets when she was approached by a local woman hopping to sell a ride on her ship, The Evita… ?? The Evita? hmmm sounds familiar… After a bit of chatting we remembered the boat and the Captain…
The ‘lady captain’ for the gullet a few days ago. Merve is one of the few women captains in the area. She and her husband own and run their day tripper tour business out of Kas…. If time allowed we would have loved to hire her for a day trip but … the next port was calling.
 |
| One of the many MANY ancient tombs found everywhere |
 |
| Tombs carved into the hillside in Kas |
We made a valiant attempt to anchor in one of the many MANY bays of Fethiye - Göçek SEPA: Special Environmental Protected Area. The ‘premier’ cruising grounds of Turkey. Also, the most popular cruising grounds in Turkey… One HUGE inlet with dozens and DOZENS of bays. and LOTS of charter boats.
We dropped the hook in deepish water, 40+ feet. Tom again swam our lines to shore but the holding was sketchy. Jim dove in and between the two they secured the aft. They thought. We sat back to relax but … there was so much to see. First the ice-cream boat came knocking so we had to buy an ice-cream. Then the grocery boats circle the bay… Big boats, fully stocked with all your basic needs and a few extras too.
The goats and donkeys ashore brayed and baa’ed… The wind picked up. The German boat next to us (not moored to shore) began to drift into us… They hauled their anchor and left soon after. Then jim noticed one of our lines was completed underwater… and we were swinging away from shore… The line was still tied to the rock though. Jim jumped in and discovered we had dislodged the huge stone and were puling it out into the bay as we continued to swing. Then the other line broke free from its rock… Time to haul in the lines and find a safe harbor. We choose to go on to Fethiye a day early and anchor in the large protected inlet. We motored then unfurled the head sail… soon the wind was pulling us along at over 5 knots… but the mountainous horizon was black with occasional lighting bolts… was dodged the rain and the lighting and made the harbor before dark.
Fethiye. We rose early and retrieved the anchor. The wind back up to near 15 knots. A quite motor the reminding couple for miles to the marina. With little communication from the marina we attempts to dock on the outer pair. The winds would not relent and we had to abort the first attempt. Finally a marina tender made motions to follow him further in, which we did. We motored easily up to the fuel dock, the mountain range blocking the winds. whew….
 |
| Our AIS shows LOTS of other vessels in the harbor.. |
We fueled up, got out BLUE card updated with the mandatory head pump out. The marina tender escorted us to our pontoon berthed helped to secure the lines. Our home port / berth for a week. A crew change. A trip to Istanbul too…
 |
| The seawater wash down pump quite working it is located under the V berth mattress |
 |
| When you need to fix one thing... EVERYTHING gets moved |
 |
| Jim installing the new deck light |
No comments:
Post a Comment