April / May 2019
Croatia by air with few expectations. Our first night in a hotel booked in Skradin, then decide where / what to do. Our flight over was quick, not even long enough to properly finish the free wine they handed out. We gathered our carry ons, located the car rental and headed north’ish.
Croatia was one of the places we had hoped to visit with Inishnee but our time was short last season so we had to skip it… Our decision to extend our winter berth contract in Ostia this season allowed us to backtrack via plane. Europe has a decent fleet of budget airlines making holiday travel suit our cruising kitty. 
We were soon to discover that Croatia is a bit mountainous, often hilly. Has tons of fresh water and more waterfalls than any place we have traveled… so far. The back country roads we traversed were sparsely populated, many villages with abandoned homes… Possibly because it’s quite difficult to make a living out in the country. It’s very rocky. Vegetation is sparse. But, quite charming…. 
Split to Skradin (April 27-28)
Skradin is a sea port but located several kilometers inland, accessed by a river. The village is small and rather touristy, but many locals still make their homes there or nearby. Our apartment was really pleasant. Heat on demand! A proper european kitchen and bathroom. And, a separate bedroom. All located above a restaurant owned by the same proprietor, Niko. He helped us secure a parking spot; we lugged our gear up to the first floor then set off to explore. It’s a fairly small town, easily walked in an hour or so… a nice waterfront on a river with plenty of restaurants and cafes. We got information from the tourist office about Krka Park. We decided to visit it the next day. Dinner out and an early night… Looking over the Park info, we decided to extend our stay another night which is generally no problem in the low season. Niko was happy to have the business. We asked him about the area and tourism. He explained that it was good until a few years ago… but, because of the towns proximity to Krka, it had become too popular; the 2nd most visited park in Croatia. It was too much for such a small area. Nearly a million and a half people descend on the park / area in the 3 months of high season…. Coming by both car and boat, and a few on foot. We were glad we were able to see it before the season started!
Krka Park (28th)
We were up early and headed to the park office to get our boat tickets to take us to the park up stream. You can drive or walk but the boat ride is included with the purchase of the entry ticket. Already, there were nearly a hundred passengers waiting. The boat ride was pleasant cruising along the river. Fish and foul slipping past as we went. The captain docked the boat and we disgorged from the vessel. Tickets in hand we entered the official park boundaries,142 kilomters in all, passing several booths for food and beverages. Just beyond we saw the first of the many waterfalls that make up the park. Truly breathtaking.
Crystal clear waters falling over a labyrinth of plateaus spread over a few acres to start with… 7 major water falls and dozens of lesser ones and intertwined with wooden boardwalks / no railings… laced with islands and wildlife.
The main path leads to the repurposed mill and once thriving mill town. The old buildings are now museums: a blacksmith shop and mill for grain featuring historic artifacts and images of life in the town. The river tumbles though and over the manmade channels. Several restaurants and souvenir shops fill in the remaining homes and building.
Stoping for a look see over one of these walls, Kathy discover (much too late) one of the local legless residents sunning itself on the rock wall… the ensuing screams startled those unfortunate enough to be within ear shot …. the ladies on break from the restaurant nearby were thoroughly amused! 
Continuing up the trail, you leave the ‘shopping’ behind (and hopefully snakes) and enter the natural park area. The wooden boardwalk meanders through and over the waters that again are intermingled with vegetation, fishes and fowl…. It seems to go on for miles, which it does if you continue on to the upper falls. The combination of wooden planks and the rushing water below your feet can be quite mesmerizing … with just a touch of vertigo.
A few hours traipsing around was plenty for us, so we headed down the trail, picked up a quick sandwich before catching the boat back to Skadin.
For dinner we found a charming place catering to locals and tourist. A meal of fantastic beef, veggies and veal risotto filled the void before calling it a night.
Zadar / Plitvice *Jezerce ()29
We then continued north toward Zadar, a coast city. We found parking near the old town and took a look. It had a very modern feel with many trendy restaurants and shops. After lunch we hopped back in the car and decided to go to Plitvicka jezera… the largest national park in Croatia. We took lodging in a purpose built hotel near the entrance of the park. The temperatures were dropping… our host said there was a possibility of snow overnight… The village was closed up pretty tight this early in the year and still prepping for the season to come but we found a few snacks at the only market around and got a togo meal from the village cafe… we ate in our room then tuck ourselves in…
We woke with the birds, the curtains doing little to keep out the sun. Made a breakfast of juice and yogurt before setting out for the park.
We parked the car in the most scattered parking lot you can imagine. The very narrow road twists and turns through heavily forested and ravined lot, drivers squishing cars into impossibly small openings here and there among the trees.
Our arrival was early and only a few people waiting for the ferry to the opposite side of the river where the path through the waterfalls would begin. This park was much like Krka, but much MUCH bigger! The paths are generally oneway, thankfully. By days end there would be thousands of tourists clambering along… nearly everyone with a camera in hand hoping to take a perfect picture with every shot… The truth is, it’s hard to get a bad shot in such a fantastic landscape. It is quite a remarkable place. A gorge… a river running through. Caves and islands. A fantasy land of water and falls and deep pools of icy cold water, littered with trees and grasses and vegetation… 
a UNESCO world heritage site, 1979. 295 sq miles… a chain of 16 terraced lakes. Dolomite and limestone makeup the underlying rocks. Rivers suddenly disappear from the surface cascading through crevices forming underground rivers while the limestone leaches out on the surface, slowing building the terraces that gradually get larger, creating hundreds and hundreds of waterfalls. After a few hours and many kilometers, we made our way to the bus depot for the oneway ride back to the gate. The day was moving along quickly as we headed north toward Zagreb, the capitol city. We decided on Samobor, just west of the city for the nights lodging.
Samobor (30th)
Just a smidgen north of the 45th parallel. The Gradna river winds its way through town, foot bridges closely spaces for pedestrian traffic. The ruins of a 13th century castle towers over the city. The city square and surrounding homes are a mix of medieval, baroque and alpine architecture… a pastel palette. Tile roofs. Covered bridges. Our apartment was over 300 years old, renovated with modern plumbing, lighting and conveniences… the weather was cool and damp but we bundled up and headed out. 
Licitar Hearts can be found in most shops. These decorative red hearts of plastic or clay can be personalized with messages. They were originally made of gingerbread, glazed in red, and given to loved ones. Now, they are a trademark of the region. 
Bosnia
Zenica (May 1)
We drove from Sambor and bypassed the capitol preferring to visit lesser populated areas. And, we wanted to checkout Bosnia. Crossing the boarder into Bosnia was simple. We showed our passports, got a stamp and drove off. Almost immediately we were struck by the appearance of litter. The trees along the rivers were a jumble of branches and plastic bags. The roadsides strewn with bottles and cans. A HUGE difference from Croatia which has to be the cleanest country in Europe. The roads here too, were a bit potholed but no competition for our former home state in the US. We headed in the general direction toward Sarajevo. Rain and clouds flirting with each other dropping down to street level periodically. We picked a spot on the map, Zenica, because it was along the route, about half way between Sambor and Sarajevo. Zenica is a decent size city, very industrial. We checked into our hostel and set out on foot to locate a cafe. What we hadn’t planned for or expected was May Day and Sunday; everything was closed… There were plenty of cafes, just NONE open. We did find one bakery near the bus station that had several things to grab and go. Back in hostel we dined on cheap wine, cheese pastries and chocolate; topped off with a netflix movie.
Sarajevo (2nd-3rd)
We were up early and down to breakfast. Bread with optional chicken patè and Bosnian coffee (like Turkish or cowboy),… a bit unusual but included in the very inexpensive room rate. It was a bit drier out as we continued toward Sarajevo. We drove over and through (tunnels) a few mountain ranges and skirted rivers along the way.
We parked the car at our apartment and took off immediately to locate the first of two free walking tour meeting spots. … we have done quite a few of these free tours in Europe. ALL excellent. You are expected to tip your guide at the end. Our guide (I’ll call her Marcia bc I can't remember her name) gave us a bit of geography and history before setting off, about 25 in tow. For 5 generations of her family, each generation has been under a different government and country name…
Sarajevo was held under siege from 1992-96; 1,425 days. Nearly 4 years. Marcia was a child at the time. As she lead us around the city, the scars of war were everywhere. When asked if the buildings, vacant and occupied, baring these pock marks were left that way as a remembrance, her reply was 'no'. In recovering from such devastation, priorities are set. The exterior of a building is last on f a long list of needs. There are memorials throughout the city, and a war museum. All very sobering.
The Sarajevo Roses can be found all over the city. Places were bombs fell and exploded on impact, sending shrapnel in all directions killing many… some still have the propellor parts still imbedded in the pavement. The divots around the center of impact have been filled with a red resin. 
Marcia would close many of her narratives with the phrase… ‘what ya going to do… and shrug her shoulders… ‘You have to move on. but; don’t forget. 
Most of us from a certain generation can remember, at least marginally, that there was a devastating war fought throughout this region recently… It’s all very complicated, but basically, when the former Yugoslavia broke up, many rival factions attempted to gain control over the lands and began fighting each other; forming / changing alliances etc…
When Sajajevo came under attack by the Serbs, those trapped in the city took shelter inside the buildings as 300+ shells / bombs were launched daily, EVERY DAY of the WAR, into the city. Sarajevo is surrounded by a ring of mountains. The electricity and contact with the world was cut off. As days turned to weeks, supplies; food and water, dwindled to the point of desperation. A lovely river passes through the city but going to the river for water was sure to bring a hail of bullets or worse. But, survival meant food and water at the very least. So, the risk was taken. And, people were shot; indiscriminately. Men, women, children. As the siege worn on, they were forced to go out in the open for necessities. *1,425 days id a VERY. LONG. TIME.
Many planted and maintained gardens in any green space they could. Others gathered wood for heat. Some even went to ‘work’; even if there were few customers or goods to sell. Bartering was their currency. The UN set up a post at the airport miles from the city. A tunnel was dug from the airport into the city so basic supplies could be delivered. Can goods like spam and sardines were the only meat those in the city had access to.
Snipper alley ran through the middle of city. Thousands of people died from snipper fire trying to cross this space. It was said that if you went there, you were either crazy or trying to commit suicided.
There was a phrase used by locals when greeting someone during this time… ‘ah, you’ve been missed’ , meaning , you didn’t get shot or blown up… today
One couple, known as the Sarajevo Romeo and Juliet, were shot dead on a bridge trying to flee the city… There bodies lay on the bridge for over a week before a truce could be arranged to remover their bodies… |
| one of the new cemeteries for the war victims |
Mostar (4th)
Mostar means ‘old bridge’. The town of the same name is quite famous for it’s old bridge… Built in medieval times it spans the gap over the river Neretra. It was originally wood but around 1556 it was replaced with stones to better accommodate the growing needs of the communities around it. During the recent Bosnian conflict it was bombed and destroyed. After the war the bridge was rebuilt with many of the reclaimed stones from the original. The labor and building techniques mimicked the original structure, restoring it as close as possible. 
Our visit was wet… drenching rains. Trying to negotiate the streets of the old town was frustrating with all the tourists each one holding an umbrella at eye level…
Kathy trudged on with Jim reluctantly in tow, arms shielding the eyes from dangerously close metal points from the hundreds of umbrellas. We manage to make within a few feet of the center of the bridge before gridlock. With hundreds of holiday makers trying to get the perfect photo at the apex of the bridge NO ONE could pass in either direction… with a bit of pushing and ducking we mashed out way through the horde to the opposite side. The short way home was back over the bridge, we opted for the long walk skirting the tourist sections of town.
Kathy trudged on with Jim reluctantly in tow, arms shielding the eyes from dangerously close metal points from the hundreds of umbrellas. We manage to make within a few feet of the center of the bridge before gridlock. With hundreds of holiday makers trying to get the perfect photo at the apex of the bridge NO ONE could pass in either direction… with a bit of pushing and ducking we mashed out way through the horde to the opposite side. The short way home was back over the bridge, we opted for the long walk skirting the tourist sections of town.
We visited the war memorial Museum in Mostar. It included 2 documentaries with footage taken at the time. Images of the Mostar bridge being bombed repeatedly until it crumbled. Locals grieving over loved ones. Buildings on fire.
Exhibits included personal belongings from some who had been killed, photos of destruction, tools supplies and fabricated items that were used / needed daily |
| heating and cooking stove made from repurposed metal cans |
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| this is a replica of a typical apartment where an entire family would have taken shelter |
The weather was slightly better in the morning, drizzle mingling with patches of sun. As we made our way toward Dubrovnik, Croatia...
with a stop at a roadside vendor selling skins; sheep and goat.
Jim negotiated with the salesman on prices exchanging ‘numbers’ on a calculator. After settling on an amount he wrote (drew) instructions for cleaning and care with a stick in the dirt… pictograph style. Language barriers overcome with ingenuity.
Dubrovnik, Croatia
By the time we arrived in Dubrovnik around lunch the skies were full of sun. Perfect for approaching the medieval walled city jutting out into the Mediterranean from its small peninsula of land …We found a car park, shed our jackets and entered through one of the city gates arches. Then, descended down the stone steps to the city square. Lots of restaurants, cafes and shops.
We wandered around the central square before settling in for some lunch, followed by more wandering around many of the streets and alleys. The city is situated on the side of a hill so there are plenty of steps to give your heart and legs a good workout.
It’s easy to see why it was chosen as a site for the filming of Game of Thrones a few seasons ago with so many remarkable buildings, passageways and old world charm. But, its also very touristy. We decided to continue on to Split where we would end our vacation.
Split
We were able to score a fantastic apartment on the edge of the old town and scored a free parking spot less than a block away.
We called our landlord who met us and showed us to our apartment. A lovely old stone home, renovated and very comfortable with a sea view … It was late so we headed out for dinner. We found a traditional small restaurant a block from our door. Dinner and wine ordered and drank, then home.
A lovely morning was upon us and we headed out. The old walled city of Split, like many old villages, doesn't allow automobiles. An occasional scooter or motorized delivery shuttle is all that can manage the narrow lanes and alleys besides pedestrians. We toured the historical museum; traditional attire, home furnishings and instruments for labor were on display. Fishing and winemaking dioramas accompanied with photos rounded out the visit. The water front was bustling with tourist from the 3 cruise ships in port. Lots of souvenir booths and cafes to choose from.
Today also marked the celebration of the cities parton saint… a parade made its way along the promenade, attendants dressed in traditional clothes, crosses carried by church officials followed by speeches and a mass. Part of the festivities included a free public lunch featuring a HUGE pot of lamb stew, It took 8-10 cooks to stir the pot.
We ended the day with another fine meal before pulling up the covers and tucking in. Our flight to Rome the next day was uneventful, 1 hour. We opted to rent a car because it was cheaper than the bus fare to Ostia…
All was well aboard, thankfully. 
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| Europe has lots of tunnels...Croatia has one that was nearly 6 kilometers long! |
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