Inertia
June 9 - 27
After 8 months in Italy… the only thing holding us back was inertia.
The last few details like laundry and shopping done, we cast off the lines connecting us to Italy
A toast to the good ship Inishnee, her crew and the sea…
To Inishnee, who keeps us safe and take us places
To the crew, who keeps us safe and takes us places…
To the sea, that keeps us safe and takes us places…
We were able to depart the berth and harbor uneventfully. As we settled in to the days passage the wind presented herself quite respectably and we hauled out the sails. uggg! The Sahara dirt had settled into the folds and creases leaving rusty red stains… Nothing to do about it but lament. Up and out they went… dust and all
Our first sail in over 8 months was quite pleasant. Inishnee, the vessel, remembered what to do even if the crew may have had a few hiccups. But we eventually got our bearings and acclimated to life afloat and underway…
Giglio June 9-10
Next port; Isola de Giglio. 12 hours north and west. A lovely little island, part of the Tuscan Island chain. The tender met us outside the harbor and escorted us in… directing us to a spot on the wall. Jim at the helm, the tender pushed us sideways between the already parked boats. We secured the lines and took in the view. Down right lovely! A little village tuck in the hill side. Dozens of local fishing boats resting at anchor.
The tender captain welcomed us ashore and gave us a quick what’s where…. and; made sure we understood we had to leave in the morning by 10am! ALL the boats on the wall… the space is reserved for the passenger ferry boats from the mainland 10am-5 pm daily. Bummer! The car / cargo ferries continued coming and going until dusk, jostling us around each time. We ate a late dinner aboard. Jim plotted a course to a nearby anchorage for tomorrow and called it a night.
Boats started leaving just after sun up. We were a bit sluggish but readied the boat for the next short leg, then headed toward the village for a quick look before putting out to sea. The marina officials met us and informed us there would be no hurry! The winds were too strong and the seas too rough to bring the small passenger ferries over so we could ALL stay all day if we wanted… Yes, of course we did!
Rethinking the days plan, we packed a small bag and headed to the bus stop where the bus would take us to the fortress (castle) on the hill, Castello Giglio. Still inhabited by locals with a few shops and restaurants. For 2 euros we boarded the bus and traveled the one and only road on the island… it does Y at one point to return to the sea and another village on the opposite side… The castello was sparsely populated at 10 am… within 45 minutes we had explored pretty much all of it so we caught the bus back down… a few hearty souls walked; some up some down via the mountain path. We wandered the main village then returned to Inishnee. Some reading followed by a nap… We had dinner along on the waterfront; fresh seafood caught by the fisherman of the island. Local wine to chase it down…
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In January 2012, Giglio had a most unwelcome visitor… The Costa Concordia. A huge cruise ship who’s captain altered course to do a ‘sailing salute” to the islanders… much too close though and hit some rocks, took on water and subsequently overturned just 800 meters off the harbor of Porto Giglio. 2 years later and 2 billion of dollars later, it was refloated and towed 200 miles to Genoa where it was scrapped … 33 people lost there lives. The captain and several crew members are serving prison sentences…
June 11
At anchor off Giglio Campese, a village on the Giglio’s south side. Very pleasant. The new windlass worked perfectly.
It was very relaxing, bobbing on the water. Later that night, star gazing and being thankful…
June 12 -13
Elba, Portoferraio
A 6 hour motor sail took us to the island of Elba and the port of Portoferraio. As we prepared to pull the sails out we noticed one of our radar reflectors dangling from a spreader… so, we proceeded with a reefed foresail and fingers crossed that it would hold on for the short journey to Portoferraio. We took a mooring ball and paid for two nights before realizing how incredibly roll’y the bay was. Ferry boats coming and going from 8 in the morning till 9 at nights. Often 3 in port with another coming or going …
We launched the dinghy to explore ashore. We followed the sketchy directions given us by the mooring ball attendant; landing the dinghy and walking through chin high grasses past vacant buildings to reach the road… which was conveniently located at the entrance to a large grocery center…
We wandered around town, toured the Napoleon museum (all 2 rooms of replicas) and then climbed the hill to Napoleon’s ‘home’ where he was sequestered by the British. This very spacious home, two floors, with all the amenities of the times… including an indoor toilet! minus his freedom…
We continued exploring the old city and found a nice pizza lunch spot with adequate ventilation… Then returned to Inishnee to formulate a plan for our next move. Jim also rigged up the mast climber (bosuns chair) to go aloft and repair / remove the radar reflector… We timed the climb between ferry runs and he was able to do the climb and refasten the broken zip-ties and for safe measure, added a couple; an oz of prevention… and was back on the deck before the next ferry convention.
We next moved on to Marciana and a marina where spent quite a bit of time with a hose removing the salt that had crusted up around the boat, lifelines, dodger etc… a few shots of cool water for the crew too. Our last night in Italy; we dined out….
Corsica, France our next venue…
We made good time en-route to Corsica doing 6-8 knots sailing! Jim found a nice anchorage near the town of Porticciolo. We dropped the hook in 12 feet of clear water. A very quiet and private location where we enjoyed the harbor to ourselves. We spent the afternoon and evening on board followed by more star gazing…
We needed to check in with the French officials, so the next morning we headed to Bastia. A tender assisted with berthing. The crew and ship received another freshwater bath. Paper work in hand, we set out to find the customs office… After several inquiries and retraced steps, we found the office… but, it was closed… because all government offices close for lunch from 12:30 -3pm But were told someone might come by the boat tomorrow…
We wandered around the streets of the old town. Most of the buildings were roofed with slate tiles rather than terra-cotta seen in much of Italy. The buildings also seemed a bit tired and weathered, many with exterior plumbing pipes clinging to their facades.
We found a small cafe and ordered something, hoping we had interpreted the menu items correctly… The food arrived and was quite nice, the local wine pleasant as well. As we were finishing our meal, a woman from a nearby table approached us to ask where we were from. She heard us talking and wondered what part of the world our English was from. She; Fabiana, is an English teacher. We had a quick visit but invited her and her boyfriend Fred over for drinks that evening. They agreed.
We then continued touring: a museum nearby, parks and fountains. Then a stop for some evening nibbles and beer from the grocery.
Fabian and Fred arrived at the appointed time and climbed aboard, narrowly averting disaster on the boarding ladder. Fabian translated our conversations for Fred. Unfortunately, they were only able to stay for one beverage because they operate a B&B and needed to meet guests arriving soon… but ‘would we like to join them for dinner?’ Yes, thank you….
We found their apartment building and rang their flat. She buzzed us in and we took the lift to the top… 6th floor overlooking the harbor! whew! what a view…. The apartment was spacious and the balcony was superb, excellent for dining alfresco. We ate and drank and chatted and laughed till waaay past our bedtimes… returning home 2330… What a very special treat to be invited into someones home after a chance interaction at a cafe.
June 20
On the move again…. We decided to return to Porticciolo, the very pleasant bay from two days ago and anchor for another night… But first we needed fuel. We slipped the mooring lines and headed to the fuel dock.
A quick exchange of diesel for euros and we were off.
A quick exchange of diesel for euros and we were off.
A mountainous shoreline, green and speckled with watchtowers… about 45 minutes into the days run… Jim realized we still had the marina keys! So, we changed course and came about. Several VHF calls to the marina were left unanswered… we reluctantly maneuvered into the harbor and made a slow circle in front of the office… still no answer and no one around. Jim edged the boat close to the fuel dock, Kathy gave the keys a toss… they landed on the door stoop… and we were off, again…
Arriving at the bay several hours later with another contender for space but plenty big enough for 2 or more boats… A fantastic shore breeze funneling through the boat and no ferries… quite ideal !
Yeah, really? we get it, but damn… couldn’t you have told us like an hour ago, when the SUN was up???? ahgggg
So we put the wheel back on, hauled up the anchor and moved to the other side of the bay… our boat neighbors oblivious to the events taking place while they slept…
We were definitely not getting any sleep anytime soon…
With the anchor down again… we sat up top and waited for the show. 20 minutes of radiant streams of sizzling color bursting overhead, exploding and raining down on the very spot we had been anchored earlier… the sleeping neighbors were roused by the noise and seemed to enjoy it as much as we did …
With the anchor down again… we sat up top and waited for the show. 20 minutes of radiant streams of sizzling color bursting overhead, exploding and raining down on the very spot we had been anchored earlier… the sleeping neighbors were roused by the noise and seemed to enjoy it as much as we did …
We looked up the resort stats the next morning… 52 rooms starting at 400 dollars a night! 2 restaurants, spa, pools, bars (optional fireworks) … the entire placed was completely booked through the weekend…
We continued moving around the island, harbor to harbor, bay to bay… seeking protection from the upcoming winds and steadily moving west and north.
A pod of dolphins along the way. Jelly fish drifting by.
Another bay offered interesting alternative to our usual harbor activities (our substitute for reality TV)…
usually we only see reruns of the similar flicks: boats anchoring. people swimming. maybe a kayaker pass by.
But sometimes a new channel with a new series. like… Super Fly: A dinghy with wings; taking off and landing.
paying customers on board…lots of unpaid extras gawking skyward…
Offering no competition; we dinghy’d to shore the old fashioned way. Enjoyed a nice dinner. Picked up a few fresh veggies. Bought some cheap wine; bring your own bottle, 2.50eu a liter. Then returned home…
June 24 -25
We anchored off from Reserve National De Scandola. red granite cliffs. deep water. inky blue sea.
Our neighbors; Black Legend (mega yatch)and Black Sails (2 sailing boats.. big and bigger) and a small fleet of runabouts… six boats in total (that we saw), as well as kayaks, skis and tubes… All jet black hulls with red skulls outlined on the bows.
Our neighbors; Black Legend (mega yatch)and Black Sails (2 sailing boats.. big and bigger) and a small fleet of runabouts… six boats in total (that we saw), as well as kayaks, skis and tubes… All jet black hulls with red skulls outlined on the bows.
As we sat in awe of our surroundings (and our neighbors)… we were greeted from the water by a swimmer. Victor, the mechanic from the Black Sails fleet. He was admiring OUR boat! seriously… he even knew it was a Passport. He and his wife are sailors, currently living in Bali while he is here for the summer working as crew for the Ledgend fleet. The people you meet out here! We hope to see him again… maybe in Majorca, Spain where they plan to hold up for a while…
We took the dinghy to the little village around the point near the reserve. A very popular spot for day trippers. Really expensive beverages. No roads. Cows roaming freely on the beach (watch out for cow pies)… Winter population: 8; goat herders and fishermen.
We anchored near Punta Rosa the next 2 nights. Wanting to get off the boat, we went ashore late the second afternoon for a drink… maybe two. A very sleepy little harbor. One road. Two restaurants. A dozen cars. We ordered beers and found some seats in the shade. Several local boats were tied to moorings. A few swimmers and a couple of kayakers. And one sinking boat!
We notified the bar personnel… they seemed not too worried. Soon, though… the owner / boat minder took action. 2 zodiacs tied to the sinking vessel and pulled it to the beach boat ramp while another person dashed for an suv and trailer. They managed to get the boat to the trailer but it was too gorged with water to pull out of the water… the truck was backed lower into the sea, the boat pulled a bit farther up, but the suv was now stuck… another vehicle was attached to the party… and eventually they were able to get everything to higher, drier ground. The ‘sinking’ boat gushed water for nearly an hour before it was light enough for them to pull it away.
Back at our table, our steak arrived… the best steak we have had in months! Free range cattle… grass fed.
June 27…
Looking at the weather and options… the crew decided to head to the French Riviera …mainland France. An overnight run with a late afternoon departure.
Jim lashed the jack lines to the deck, fore and aft. Kathy readied the foul weather gear in the cabin. The anchor stowed.
The customary toast to the ship, crew and sea…
It took a few hours to round the last point of Corsica, then a straight heading for Saint Raphael, just west of Cannes. A simple dinner in the cockpit. The wind perked up allowing us to pull out the canvas and tighten the sheets. Night watch schedules were discussed…
The sun reaching for the horizon. Fins sighted off the starboard quarter… not dolphins… Sharks ! A trio. Slinking along then disappearing under the blackening sea…
‘ Jim, you get first shift. Here’s your life vest…and tether. Stay ON the boat!!!! good Night‘
The night watches kept us busy. Freighters intersecting our course. Fishing boats trolling. A few sailing vessels. Bio jellies illuminating in the wake. Changing shifts every 3 hours, 9, 12, 3 and 6. Dawn. Crew change…the sun works her way skyward. Jim heads for the bunk. Kathy nestles into her seat. Visual scans and AIS checks every 10 minutes, more as needed. The wind was dwindling but still moving us along at 3 knots… The same speed as a whale might travel… Yup… there she blows! … Jim was roused by the shrieks and hoots Kathy couldn’t contain… 20 minutes she(?) lumbered along side us, keeping about 400 feet off the port side… surfacing and spouting 3 to 4 times before descending. We paged through our Marine Mammal guide (thank you Holzloeners) but couldn’t make a clear identification …
The wind had dropped sharply and we had to bag the sails…
Our compensation for running the engine meant more speed… the kind dolphins enjoy while riding the bow wake… We were soon in the company of a small pod on there way to breakfast somewhere else…
We made the port and hailed the marina. Berth instructions were given. The attendant waved us in and readied the slime line for the mooring. It was nearly lunch break (12:30 -3) so Jim had to hustle to the office to check in…
The weather’s predictions are for more heat… it’s been very, VERY hot already…
a dock shower for the crew and a good hose down for the ship…
And a nap…
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