Leland -South Manitou Island - Charlevoix MI

Leland MI / South Manitou Island :  June 21

Jim helping Bob land a carp 

Shortly after our arrival in Leland, we noticed several men setting up at the marina pier to fish.  We didn't think much of it.  It is 'fish town' after all.  As mentioned before we had dinner with Aubrieta and her sister Julie then we called it a night.  It was peacful and foggy.  Jim left for the showers around 7:30 am and was surprised to see one the fishermen still at it.  He had been there ALL night catching carp in the fog so thick the end of the pier was invisible.  He is one of a 'cult' of guys that catch carp for fun.... catch and release.  Jim helped him land one... It was pretty big. And ugly.  Jim chatted with Bob Butz the fisherman AKA  writer.  Someone new for our  reading list.  Kind of cool who you meet out here. We sent him a coffee and he was most appreciative.

Leland

Stormin' Norman with Inishnee in the background

North Manitou Shoal Light House 

         

 After a check of the weather we decided to head for South Manitou.  We made decent time to the island and had our choice of the anchorage.  We found our sweet spot and dropped the hook.  After making sure we were secure to the bottom we sat back and admired the view.  A bit later, off on the horizon another sailboat.  They took a spot near us.  We prepped the dingy for a shore excursion then introduced ourselves to our neighbors, Jim and Francis of Minnehaha from Wisconsin.  Then off to shore.

Fog bank rolling in.   'Chicago Road'  S. Manitou

Pollel Campground Beach / fog 

We hiked to Popple campground/ beach.  About 5.5 miles round trip.  We heard it had a great view of the north island and a beautiful beach.  It was a nice hike but the fog was so thick we didn't see much off shore.

Old barn, timber more than 2 feet thick

South Manitou has an interesting history.  Early on it was a stop over for Great Lakes ships due to it's natural harbor.  As time went on, it became an important ecosystem for growing seeds for crops.  Due to its location off shore the seeds don't get contaminated from the mainland and therefor produce a pure strain of the mother seed.  There are a number of farms, somewhat intact, on the island as well as a maintained lighthouse, nature center and an old school house.

Island anchorage 

Hauling up the anchor with bugs swarming

sun setting to the west.... somewhere out there is shore 

Upon returning to the boat, we checked the weather and confirmed an earlier report of strong winds for Monday.  So much for the Manitous... But at least Jim got his Father's Day wish of a hike on the island.


Within an hour of our return from our hike the entire harbor fogged in.  We couldn't see shore ... had we delayed at all, we would have been stranded on shore, the boat cloaked in fog




June 22

Prentiss Brown / Tug pushing a barge kind of thing 

Our neighbors were up and gone shortly after 6am. We followed just after 7.  It was an interesting sail.  Some motoring as well.  Wind, no wind, fog, and then ...
We had our first hail on the VHF via AIS... The AIS allows us to 'see' other boats and be 'seen' electronically.  It broadcasts our boat information and we receive other ship information from those that carry the technology.  Not a requirement but another safety feature we choose to install.  The captain of the Prentiss Brown (a tug boat hailed us just off Charlevoix via AIS / VHF.   They can call us by name instead of ' hey you ... sail boat)... Yeah you .... We are heading your way and... Blah blah blah.... '.  He asked us to give him some leeway as he was pushing a barge and had limited mobility.  Good information to know!  It was kind of cool have Him call Us by name.

2 ships passing (we hope!) 

Charlevoix
We had to push hard to make the 2:30pm bridge which only opens on the half hour.  We were cutting it close when we hear 'hooonk hooonk' .... Oh jeez ... The Emerald Isle (the ferry to Beaver Island) is coming under the bridge and through the channel toward us... Yikes!  How the heck wide it she... the channel ... can we both fit....  'Jim... You need to steer ! '
There was room but man it sure looked close.

Pretty darn close

Around the corner we took a slip at the municipal marina for the 'big blow'... Several other boats were here to wait it out as well including the Minnehaha from South Manitou.  With help, we got into the slip minutes before the rain hit.   As it turned out, the winds were much diminished from the predictions and it skated through quickly.  Showers and dinner and a walk about town.
We met some other cruisers on the dock. Ben, Chris and their dog Coco. They winter in South Carolina and summer here in northern Michgan on their boat. We hope to look them up when we pass through there.  The night brought several bouts of wind and a few gusts but nothing troublesome at the dock.

June 23

Mom (Helen) visiting !  91 years young and still going strong 

Cool and cloudy gave way to pleasant and sunny.  A bit of laundry and some errands and then .... Mom Haskill (Kathy's mom Helen) came for the afternoon with her entourage !... Uncle Ed, Eddie and Joshua.  We visited on the boat before heading off to dinner in town.  All too soon it was time for them to head back to Johannesburg, my hometown.  Another goodbye. (sad face, teary eyes)

June 24
O M G !!!!  It feels like summer!     Today we decided to take a vacation and be 'fudgies' for a while (fudgies : an up north term for tourist because they HAVE to buy some fudge while in northern Michigan) ... We used the marina bikes to tour the town.  A ride down Belvedere Drive to Lake Charlevoix and it's shoreline.  Peddling past the grand ole' houses on the hill, the Belvedere Club, then back around to the famous 'Mushroom Houses' near the harbor entrance.  We made a stop at John Cross's  Fishery, family owned since 1945.  So glad we stopped!  I am not a fan of fish... but I'm working on it.  We bought 3-Fish Spread and Smoked Norwegian Salmon. It was amazing!  If you happen to be in the area.... check it out... Fantastic!  They do all the smoking on site.
With the bikes returned and us back on board we headed for Oyster Bay in Lake Charlevoix.  About 3 miles from the marina / downtown area.  It is super peaceful.  Again, we had our choice of the anchorage.  The summer cruising season has not started here yet.  We enjoyed 75 + degree temps!

The mushroom houses 

For dinner we took the dingy back to Charlevoix and walked to Grey Gables.  We had heard about the restaurant from numerous locals as well as other boaters... but,  go for the "early bird special' before 6 ... OK, kind of early for dinner but we did and it was fabulous.  Every night they run a special 'the early bird' for $44.00... this includes choice of 2 organic salads, 1 of 3 entrees', desert and a bottle of wine!  The food was phenomenal and you can't beat the price.  The restaurant appears to be an old boarding house.  multiple rooms make for semi private dinning.  Linens, candles and chandeliers. Pretty fancy for us but glad we went.

Grey Gables 

Back aboard, it is cozy and warm.  We are hoping to see the Northern Lights tonight.  They have been lighting the skies for 2 nights straight up here!  Unfortunately, clouds the first night and city lights the second interfered with our viewing.  fingers crossed.  No light pollution out here but the clouds are moving in. grrrr
Tomorrow we head for Beaver Island and the Shamrock...


A side note.  The Charlevoix Municipal Marina is run by Hal and his crew.  They are all amazing.  Friendly, helpful, polite.  The facility is top notch.   But Hal,  He is one of a kind.  We dubbed him the City Ambassador.  One Hal of a guy ...  He had tips on everything to do, eat and see while in town and was spot on with it all.  Thanks Hal !