Canada: Georgian Bay and Lake Huron

Canada : Georgian Bay and Lake Huron

with help from friends ...

Killarney July 7…

Club Island July 7

Tobermory, July 8, 9

Port Elgin, July 10

Kincardine, July 11 

Club Island

Chicheemaun 

It was a bit of a hassle getting out of Killarney.  As I said last post, we were pinned in by 2 other boats.  A sail directly behind us and a huge, lovely power boat off our port quarter.  The marina had a lot of boats to accommodate for the ‘weather’ and we just happened to get in before the other boats and ended up surrounded.  The big power boat, captained by Peter,  planned to leave by 11 along with the 2 other boats he was traveling with.   No problem.  It was raining.  We only planned to go 20 miles to Club Island.  11 came and went.  No movement by the neighbors.  Jim inquired with one of the other captains and …. ‘we’ll be out in 30mins ’… OK...  Noon thirty…. and we are still waiting.  Rain was subsiding at least.  Then, when Peter realized we were waiting on him to leave, he jumped into action and they were gone within minutes.  Two other boat crews assisted us in moving the our boat sideways then walked us back along the pier, skirting the sail behind us, which planned to stay anther day.  I was at the helm,  Jim, on the pier, jumped aboard.  We were off at the crack of 1PM….

Out on the open water heading south, the winds were picking up from the forecasted light air.  Jim rigged his new ‘wing and wing’ sail plan which uses 2 preventer lines controlled from the cockpit.  A preventer line holds the whisker pole out which is used to hold the head (front) sail out.  It can accidentally swing about and clobber anyone unless a preventer is used.   We were able to sail at a pretty good clip… winds continued to build.  15 knots, 20 knots … 25 knots !!!!  Freakin’ awesome!  The seas were from behind and pushing us as well, so we were surfing down the waves which were quite manageable from behind at about 3 to 4  feet.  We hit an all time speed record…. 8.2 knots! …. with the surf action.

divers and snorkelers 

The skies continued to clear as we made our way south and we were able to shed a few layers of clothes for a while.  By the time we made Club Island we dropped the sails but decided to leave the boat rigged with the pole out, held in position, because the seas made the boat roll a lot once we turned toward the harbor.  It would be safer in the calm of the bay to de-rig there.  So we anchored the boat and started the process of hauling lines and poles and stuff in…. I’m in the cockpit, several lines in hand, a mess of spaghetti lines at my feet going…. what do I pull now?  Jim’s on the bow wrestling with pole.  The new system he devised is great … but to me, it’s ‘Greek’… I’ve got some studyin’ to do…  

The anchorage was a bit roll’y due to the waves from earlier today but not uncomfortable.

divers ...

We were up early and excited to get a move on and see more new stuff.  We both seem to get a bit antsy if we have to sit for too long.  The sun was out and we sailed a good deal of the way.  20 miles.  

July 8.  Today we celebrate 21 years of love and friendship… We sailed past Flower Pot Island but were unable to see the ‘Pots’ which the island is named for. (Darn no flowers for my anniversary).  There use to be 3 ‘pots’ but one eroded away a number of years ago.  The ‘pots’ are remnants of a soft stone (limestone?) outcroppings that resemble a flower pot … sort of.  The islands in the area are part of the Fathom Five National Marine Park.

On to Tobermory and the beautiful harbor of Little Tub.  The town has outdone itself on tourism.  They know their business.  The locals are friendly and helpful.   The town is small, clean and provides excellent services to transients an tourists.  It has a huge number of tour boats to take tourist to the Flower Pots, or snorkeling or diving !   The water is crazy cold for diving.  One of the dive shops said they recored 34’ F at the site of ‘The Arabia’ wreck two days ago.  The area is strewn with ship wrecks from the 18 and 19 hundreds, schooners, etc.  They have glass bottom boats for those who don't want to don scuba gear.  The constant daily action of the dozens of boats taking tourists in and out of here keeps the harbor pretty jostled up.  Come 5 pm, the majority of the tours have called it a day… till about 9 the next morning.   

We met another couple, Jim and Kathy, heading to the North Channel…   We shared several great conversations, beverages and great eats with them over the course of the 2 days in port together.  We really hope to meet up with them again.  

  

Thursday we used the dingy to go ‘wreck hunting’  … it was spooky cool.  After the commercial fleet calls it a day, private boats can go to Big Tub Harbor, around the corner from here and view the wrecks for themselves.  We were not quite sure where the wrecks were, so we asked 3 young kids having a blast  kayaking together where the ships were located.  They pointed to the end of the harbor and we are all off… it was a race …. we had to row this last bit  of distance because a dive boat still had divers in the water.  The water was fairly calm and we were able to glide up to and over the 2 sunken ships.  It was a bit erie.  Not only could we clearly define the hulls, we could make out a surprising amount of details within them.  They appeared to be 100 foot long, wooden schooners.  One had the side rail still intact as well as a winch.  The ships are quite close to shore, which drops off very quickly into the strikingly clear water.  As we floated along, we noticed a couple on their home pier enjoying the afternoon. We asked them if they could tell us about the ships.  What luck!  They are local tour guides that narrate  for the tour boats here.

...One of the ships had caught fire in Little Tub Harbor, and is was pulled here to burn itself out.  The other hit a rock near the harbor entrance, it was towed here in hopes of fixing it but there was too much damage.  They have been here since before the Titanic sunk… a number of timbers appear to be in good shape given the  demise of their ship.  

ship wreck 

The Harbor has filled up today with boaters, mostly heading north.  A number of tourist here catch the ferry boat to Manitoulin Island.  The ‘Chicheemaun’ (Big Canoe) ferry is designed so that the entire bow lifts up and opens to allow autos to enter for transport.  It is quite impressive to watch it’s ‘mouth’ open preparing to ingest it’s cargo.   

Tobermory, at the tip of the Bruce Peninsula, marks the end of the Niagara escarpment which runs through southern Ontario for hundreds of miles.  If it weren't for the rattle snakes… I would consider  hiking parts of it.... (not)  There are rattlesnakes here...  The medical clinic boasts a decompression chamber to handle dive accidents as well as treatment for snake bites…  We met a local gentleman by the name of Rich.  He builds and repairs docks and piers in the area.  His daughter… is a herpetologist as well as a bear research specialist… she spends time in Churchill studying the Polar Bears in the winter.  Rich showed us a picture from just down the road a piece… March of 2014.  The area received several feet of snow.  Closed everything for a week.  It’s great getting local knowledge from the source.   

On the move again... we are like Salmon…. heading in the ‘wrong’ direction for the summer, meeting lots of boaters heading to the North Channel.  Many have been going for over 40 years and still loving it.

Next stop, Port Elgin.  We had a long day, motor sailing, 52 miles.  8 hours.  The sails today gave us an extra 2 knots in boat in speed. Jim mentioned how jealous all you land lubbers must be of us.  You are sweltering in the heat (we heard St. Ignace, MI hit 80 today!) while we are enjoying temps in the low 60’s.  We still get to wear our winter hats and ‘foulies' (weather jackets) while on the water.  Our swim wear isn't going to get any damage from UV either at this rate.  

bow ...

Port Elgin.  One of the friendliest towns yet.  While at the marina dock, Vic popped over from his boat to inquire if we were indeed sailing a ‘Passport’… his dream boat.  Affirmative.  We invited him back after we were settled to have a chat.  He brought his wife Wendy and his lovely, young granddaughter, Sofie.  Nick retired from the local Nuclear Plant just south of here.  It is the largest employer in the entire area.  They were full of information and knowledge about the Bahamas having sailed there consecutively for numerous winters.   They offered a ride to town, which we gladly accepted… which let to a full on narrated tour.  The town has all the modern facilities we have come to appreciate.  Home improvement, a ‘big box’ shopping mart, and several lively restaurants with pubs and eats.  They dropped us off in mid town and directed us toward the beach / marina for our walk home.  The town is known for its turn of the century architecture.  The homes are well kept and landscaped nicely.  Each historic residence appears to have a placard designating the house number, name or business.  The lake front has a working steam locomotive.  It’s pretty small, but 20 or so passengers can take a quick, round trip jaunt aboard.  Fun fact: the town intersections all have HUGE maple leaves on each of the 4 corners…. laid in 2 color brick.  

side rails ...

Kincardine

A short sail / motor to Kincardine today.  20 miles.  Enroute we passed the Bruce  Nuclear Power Development, North Americas largest nuclear power facility.  It was hard to see through the haze but none the less, dramatic in scale.   The harbor entrance is marked by a tri-sector light called an Occulting light.  Red, white and green.  Depending on your location, you see a different color… White meaning you are in-line with the channel : good …. red or green… you are off course.  Bad things will happen. 

Jim and Kathy 

 

 Noon checkin at Kincardine Marina.  In addition to the Kincardine Scottish Pipe Band Parade Saturday nights this weekend it is also BluesFest….   dozens of bands through out town.  Most of them free.  We put the boat in order and headed over the river and up the hill to the festivities.   Among other things, an antique British car show.  Arts and crafts.  And tasty street food.  After dinner we headed back to town for the parade …   “Trust me… it’s big”  is their motto… It was a hoot.  Dozens of bagpipers and drummers dressed in Scottish attire.  The parade started promptly at 8 followed by the mascot ‘lighthouse’ and then ALL of the spectators joined in.  Hundreds of us.  We all walked the parade route.  5 blocks.  Drums drumming, pipes piping.  Everyone having a great time.  It ended at the end of town… sort of.  The band took a 10 minute break, turned around and repeated the route backwards.  And again, the crowd took up behind the band, back to Victoria Park where they performed for a short while.  What a treat.  One of the locals said it is a great community event.  The large crowd was not unusual.  The towns people are proud of their heritage (Scottish).  As we walked about town today, it struck me that no one was wearing ‘pajamas’ or other articles of clothing best worn in the privacy of their home.  I’m sure many of you know what I mean.  Everyone seemed to have pride in their appearance.    Refreshing! 

Sunday through Friday throughout July and August, the Phantom Lighthouse Piper plays a lament from the lighthouse at dusk.  The tradition goes back to 1856 when Donald Sinclair and family were caught in a storm off the harbor and couldn’t see the harbor entrance.  He grabbed his bagpipe and began playing.  Another Scot on shore heard him and played his pipes, guiding the ship and crew into harbor.  

We had a FANASTIC internet connection  today... thus all the pictures....

It is so nice to hear from so many of you via email

Thank you!

Our sending texts has been spotty due to poor WiFi and no phone calls while in Canada... probably another 2 weeks.

Skype only works with really good wifi... 

We will continue to head south again Sunday to BayField.