De-Masting, Buffalo and Tonawanda, New York

Buffalo, New York

July 28, 29

Buffalo's skyline

We had to motor sail the final leg to Buffalo.  It was the hottest it’s been and we are loosing our farmers tans.  No down comforter for 2 nights either.  

Milage to date.  1,050 (+/-) nautical miles.  6 weeks, 2 days.

Buffalo harbor is our busiest port yet.  Freighters, sail and power boats and lots of water craft: bikes, kayaks, canoes, ferries, etc.  We tied to the wall in downtown Buffalo.  It’s hot and with the work ahead of us we paid the extra 10 bucks for power… aka: air conditioning!  This also allowed us to have a grassy

area to fold the sails, part of the work of de-rigging the boat.  All the running rigging has to be removed before tomorrows appointment with RCR boat yard.  The running rigging, etc. is made up of sails, lines and boom.  The Erie Canal’s minimum bridge height is 15.5 feet.  The boat yard will step the mast and build the frame to support it but we have to be ready by 8 am tomorrow.  We were already hot and tired upon arrival but we got to work in short order.   It was a bit odd being at a very busy park with hundreds of people enjoying the afternoon while we were working like mad.  We removed the sails and hauled them (THANK YOU JAN!) up the gang way and onto the park lawn to fold and bag them for storage on deck.  All the while people looking on, a drum fest on another section of the lawn and corn hole games being played.  

The boom, and other hard wear now resting on deck, 2 1/2 hours later.  We were tired, hot and hungry.  Unfortunately, the ‘wall’ has no facilities.  No toilet, no showers.  We had to make due with the cock pit shower with ‘fans’ looking on… 

We headed toward the city center, hoping for some excitement.  The waterfront is home to an amazing assortment of military craft (tours too) as well as distractions for your pocket book from food, to beverage to boat rides.  We continued on but found we were too tired to go very far.  A beverage at the local brewery and we headed back to the boat.  

pulling the mast

I ducked down below to the VERY welcome air conditioning to make us some dinner, the guys resting in the cock pit when … smack, crumple, ding, bang !!!  ??? What the heck did we not tie down???  I pop up to see Jan and Jim retrieving a drone equipped with camera from the deck… ??? The owner scurries down the gang way… sheepishly asking about our ‘wires’ and wanting to collect the drone, which appears to be undamaged.   As for the ‘wires’ (our expensive wind instruments at the top of the mast?) we’ll find our tomorrow….

Dinner was followed by a movie in the park: The indian in the Cupboard.  We were too tired to watch much of it.  

in the haul out well, mast on shore

8 am we were ready to head to the haul-out well for de-masting.  The crew was waiting and expertly guided us into the well ( the area for holding the boat while working on it).  The guys got right to work and within an hour the mast was laying in a cradle in the yard while the next phase began.  Measuring and building the cradles specifically for our boat / mast design.  We needed ratchet straps which we didn't have so I borrowed a boat yard truck and took advantage of the opportunity to get a few groceries too.  Jan and I were directed to Home Depot then Wegman’s for groceries.  OMG… I have never been in such an awesome food store!  They had everything (except wine and spirits … New York law) that I could possibly want and things I didn't know I had to have ! … The fruits and veggies were fresh, the meat and cheeses phenomenal… I was in food heaven.  

positioning the mast over the boat

Upon our return the mast was nearly secure to the deck in it’s cradles, waiting for the straps we picked up.  By 3:30 it was done.  We were HOT, tired and hungry again.  The haul out well was too hot to stay info the afternoon / night, the ‘wall’ in buffalo with no facilities didn't appeal to us (showers please!) so we took off for Tonawanda, New York.  10 + miles, and the start of the Erie Canal !!!  It was intimidating trying to maneuver our new modified ‘barge boat’ with a ram rod (mast) off the bow, but Jim handled it amazingly, as usual.  We headed into the New York Canal system, and our first couple of bridges.  All going well till just before Black Rock Lock (say that 3 times fast…)    I ‘calmly’ say to Jim… I don't think we can clear it (the bridge)… Jim: we have plenty of room… Me: are you SURE? !  Jim:  positive… Then is hits me.  Duh… we have no vertical mast… of course we can clear it… I think.

Supported by cradles and ratchet straps 

going under our first bridge as a motor boat

Jan is on the bow, arm stretched as high as he can reach, far above our new boat height (11 feet) and we are clear.  Just around the corner… Our first lock.  Jim calls for instructions. “ Wait for the green light.  Enter the lock, port side to the wall.  Grab the lines attached there and keep the boat off the wall.  The lock will close behind you.  you will drop (slowly) 5 feet.  Exit other end…”

O K ….

Black Rock Lock .... the first of many to come

It is a breeze.  We are on our way again.  Still in the canal system, we parallel the Niagara River.  The current in the river is scary fast and shallow.  Back on the river, it gives us a nice 1 - 2 knot push.  Our destination ahead and the ‘official’ entry into the Erie Canal and the city of  North Tonawanda. … Immediately we see a swing bridge with the beginnings of a forest growing in and about it.  Clearly, not having functioned for a loooong time.

Before seeing the town, we can hear music.  The boat traffic increasing with every turn.  We slide under several bridges and find the town wall to tie to.  A Canadian couple help to tie us off.  Showers taken and we are happy and less cruise’y…, our friend Rose’s term for need a shower NOW!  We head over the bridge and take in the sights and smells of the Wednesday night music in the park.  Continuing on, dinner at the Dockside restaurant… We were pretty hungry.  That being said, the food was great.  The prices really good and the portions … HUGE.  

On the wall in Tonawanda, New York.
The official start of the Erie Canal

With morning comes chores.  The cabin of the boat suffered the wrath of de-masting.  In the commotion of activity yesterday, we had things strewn about.  We reorganized and made arrangements to rent a car for a couple of days.  First up, the Naval and Military park back in downtown Buffalo.  It was really amazing.  Several aircrafts: Huey Helicopter, FJ4 - Fury (jet), F-101, PFT-17 Coastal Patrol boat, Voodoo (jet),  M-41 Walker Bulldog Tank… and quite a few others… All in disrepair but to me they told more of their story with, cracks, rust and dents.  

shame on you two ... obey the laws

We also toured the USS Little Rock.  Next the USS  Sulivan, named to honor the 5 Sullivan brothers killed at Guadalcanal, their ship sunk by a Japanese submarine. Finally, the USS Croaker, a submarine.  Ir has 6 WWII patrols in the pacific, claiming 11 Japanese vessels.    We were exhausted after trekking around, up, down and  through the decks.   Heading home, we ran a few errands for a few extra supplies then back aboard.  

Burgers on the grill for dinner.  A game of cribbage, 3 handed.  It’s dark and we went off to bed.  

July 31

Happy Birthday Heike  ! ! !  (Jan’s mom).  

Military Park

Today we were off to be tourists.  Niagara Falls.  The town of Niagara on the Lake.  And …

We packed our backpack and set off.  Niagara Falls first.  We toured the American side first.  The river leading up to the falls were swift and riddled with boulders and logs.  The falls…breathtaking, even with the Canadian’s  towering hotels, casinos and  viewing towers as a backdrop.  I had never been there before, Jan and Jim had.  

US side, Niagara Falls

We then crossed into Canada to the preferred view.ing side.  Much more dramatic.  far more natural looking, the Americans have not built the shoreline up too much.  The expanse of the river is far more evident and the falls:  thundering, misty, frothy, churning…. and at the bottom, the tour boats nosing up to the boiling, fuming waters, all aboard getting soaked through their rain gear.  We continued on, heading south along the Niagara Parkway which shirts the Niagara River for miles.  Plenty of green spaces and picnic areas.  Turning back north, we drove up to Lake Ontario and the town of Niagara on the Lake.  First impressions, Saugatuck on a large scale.  Then, the flowers.  It must cost the city (?) tens of thousands of dollars in plantings and maintenance charges every season.  Although only about 5  blocks long, the end of town was not discernible.  Huge hanging flower baskets, trees along the streets and even a few horse drawn carriages.  The day was waring on and so were we.  Headed for home, we had one final stop the outlet mall.  We managed to spend all of our Canadian money on great stuff.  

Canadian side

Then we remembered we wanted another boat hook to help manage the up coming lock system, so … a few bucks more were spent and home.  Dinner, then dodging the evening outcrop of spiders in the cockpit. All our boaters friends who went before us on this path said the  spiders would leave once we hit salt water…. here’s hoping you were right 

tour boats

looking down stream, Canadian side

Niagara on the Lake

Hotel and city street