New Jersey - Pennsylvania

New Jersey - Delaware Bay

Aug 22

Atlantic Highlands / Sandy Hook 

The guys got to work on the outboard engine first thing.  The pull cord won’t operate properly.  I prepped the cabin for our passage to Cape May, NJ.  If we can make 5 -6 knots per hour we will have about a 26 - 28 hour passage, overnight keeping watch in 3 hour shifts.  With a bit of time on my hands, I took the opportunity to make ‘Artha’s Pecan Pie’…. Thank you Artha for the recipe ! 

The guys got the outboard apart and we headed to shore to find a repair shop for parts and get groceries.  Saturday late morning, we could find nothing open as far as repair shops, however a stop at the NAPA Auto / Marine store was a great help.  Jim had the culprit part in hand and between the clerk and Jim, they diagnosed the problem and fixed it on the spot.  A bent metal thing (?) that needs to swivel.  Off to the grocer and a cab ride back, too many bulk items to carry even with 3 people.  With the passage and the next phase of the Delaware River we will be anchoring a lot so we stocked up on goods.  

Back aboard the guys went about putting the part back on the outboard… 2 hours later, (NO cussing! ) and several start overs, the guys took a break for a late lunch.  I went to shore to post our latest blog…   s l o o o o w   internet….. rebooted several times ….. grrrrr ….. I’d had enough so I headed back to the boat hoping something made it to cyber space.

The guys, still in good spirits, were still at it.  Having just discovered they had just wound the  ‘coil spring’ the wrong way… so they were re-winding it the right way.  A couple gentle pulls… SUCCESS !  It is now after 3pm, 4 hours of ‘fixing’.   The outboard is back to gather, we are all sweaty.  We need water and the mooring ball has a new occupant coming in.  We tossed the mooring bridle off and went to the marina dock to get water.  It’s a bit of a slow process filling the water tanks so we each were able to get a quick shower before we completed filling the tanks.  The day had pretty much gotten away from us so we decided to anchor for the night.  Relax and get an early start Sunday morning.  Had we left in the late afternoon, we would have made our destination in the dark, had to navigate unfamiliar territory and anchor.  So, we had a nice dinner aboard and then desert… It was fantastic…. again, thank you Artha!  

Jan had heard there was a free concert in town and Jim wanted to see if the fix to the outboard would hold up to a ride to shore ( and back).  So we headed in.  The fix was good, but something is still making it gurgle and quit when not at full throttle.  hmmmm.  

Ashore.  A few years ago this community and other nearby towns were devastated by Super Storm Sandy.  Everything in the marina was wiped out.  EVERYTHING.  Since then they have rebuilt. It is new and top notch.  The town itself had quite a bit of rebuilding to do as well.  Store fronts / interiors, new.  Street lights / electrical, new.  Businesses back up and running and seem to be doing well.  From the anchorage / marina and town the skyline of New York City can be seen.  It is a really lovely community.  Seems to have all the necessities and more.  Restaurants, seafood, treats, etc…  

We head toward the live music in the gazebo.  It is just a perfect weather night.  Warm with a  gentle breeze.  We take a seat in the benches and sit back ready to listen to the tunes.   The music ends, and “praise the lord’ is heard, ‘alleluia’… wide eyes, we look at each other.  Then one of the singers gets up and tells is life story…. truly.  awful.  childhood.  He told a lot of gory details.  We are shell shocked.  We had come to have a pleasant evening with lively entertainment and stumbled into a confessional of sorts.  We all felt just awful for the guy but it was too heavy for our tastes.  We silently wished him all the best as we ducked out as politely as we could… 

Wanting to lighten up the mood, we headed to the Atlantic Harbor Yacht Club over looking the harbor and New York in the distance.   We of course meet a fellow sailor, beings this is a yacht club and  he gives us suggestions for the journey tomorrow.  Refreshed, we head back to the boat and catch some sleep.

Aug 23 - 24  Over night passage / Atlantic 

We are up and gone by 6am Sunday morning.  We greet the sun as she pushes her way above the horizon.  We are officially off into the Atlantic.  Salty seas ahead.  We round Sandy Hook, and it is… sandy and a hook of land.  Fishing boats speed by.  A coast guard boat at anchor.  A New York city ferry boat crosses the bow.  We turn the hook and put it behind us.  Course set for Cape May.  160 +/-  miles to the south.  With a good 15 knots of wind, the sails go up for the first time in weeks.  Flippin’ fantastic!  We are doin’ it….  We are ‘sailing’ the Atlantic.  It doesn't take long for a salt crust to form on the bow.   Going to have to make a concerted effort to keep it top side.  We continue clipping along, ticking off the miles. Sails trimmed and pulling beautifully.  Then to ice the cake, an honest to goodness sea turtle… just off the port side.  Pinch me please.  

We continue all day, beam reach switching to wing and wing.  On and on… We are hailed by a ship.  We pass behind.  And on we go.  If there are 3 happier sailors today… I don't know where or why…

As night begins to fall, we decide on shifts.  I will do 9 -12, Jan 12 - 3, Jim 3 till 6am…

Wind down to 2.5 knots.   Jim and I take the sails down just after sunset… which is getting earlier and earlier every night.  It is dark by 8pm… Jim heads to bed, Jan is sleeping as well.  My watch.  Just me and the moon.  Well, half of it.  A few clouds.  Stars horizon to horizon.  We are about 25 miles off shore.  Between shipping lanes.  The seas are undulating, breathing slowly up and down.  Every now and again, a sigh, from the depths of the sea and we get a nice swell to shift things around a bit.  A couple of commercial fishing boats off to the west.  Shore lights visible every so often.  A halo around the moon.  Jan relieves my shift about 12 thirty.  I think I could continue for several more hours but sun up, we’ll make land fall, so a bit of shuteye is in store.  Jan and Jim’s shifts are similar.  Peaceful and calm.  I am up to greet the morning just after 6.  We watch the sun crest over the horizon.  Within the hour we will be in the channel and preparing the anchor.  A welcoming committee of dolphins makes a quick pass at the harbor entrance.  The briny air fills our nostrils.  We did it.  We made our first overnight passage of the Atlantic  journey.  

The anchor set, eat a huge, too big of a breakfast.  Our tummies stuffed we crawl back in our bunks.  Just a bit more shut eye before exploring the salty shores of Cape May.

Aug 24 

Cape May, NJ

Awake from our nap, we set off for shore in the dinghy.  Jim wanted to find a mechanic to take a look at the outboard, still giving us fits. So we are off to make new friends.  First stop the closest marina.  Great guy staffing the place, he makes some inquiries and we are off to the second possibility.  We inquire there.  No one knows how to help or will suggest anything, except ‘move the dinghy’ so you don't block the fuel  pumps.  OK.  We move the dinghy and Jim goes next door to the marine supplies / repair shop.  ‘maybe tomorrow I can look at it.’   Okay… So, we decide to check out another marina.  Jim pulls the cord. Nothing.  Again… nothing.  The marina guys want us out of there; we have a non functioning motor.  We pull it as best we can out of their way and contemplate a plan.  We consult son Stephen, a diesel marine mechanic based in Florida.   Purchasing a NEW motor seems the most sensible.  So, using our cell phones and wifi we start researching / calling places.   ‘I can get you one in 10 days… We can have one here Thursday.  It’s Monday and we have no way to get to or from the boat without a dinghy.  There is a current that can’t be rowed against.   We head by foot to West Marine in hopes of a better solution even though they have none in stock.   Just as we cross the highway Jim notices a discount marine store.  They don't sell motors but are super helpful and put us in contact with a marina that has motors in stock…. but the receptionists says, ‘ our dealer is off today, we can’t sell motors.’  Jim says, ‘you mean to tell me if I walk through the door, I have money, you wont’t sell the motor that is in stock, at your location (4 miles from us).  She repeats, ‘I can not sell you a motor today…’ End of conversation.   The Discount Marine store clerk, Pete, says ‘What?’   He dials a number and after a quick conversation, says the dealer will be there in a few minutes, they are friends.  Thank you Pete!  So we have to catch a taxi ($20 !!!) to go 4 miles.  We are back on track, and decide on a new / used motor, slightly less power than we had, but it  W O R K S and is a decent price and will retain the warranty.  Anther cab ride and we are back in the dinghy with a new set of problems.  Our full tank of fuel has oil added as needed for the old motor, and we TWO motors now.  The extremely UN-helpful marina we are at pretty much refuses to help.  Won’t take the fuel or dispose of it (it can be used in any gas automobile without any harm) but they all shun us, we have the plague.  The new outboard has a reservoir tank built in so we ask to buy gasoline for the tank… again, we have the plague.  We manage to get some fuel from them to put in the reservoir tank (10 cents worth, no kidding) and we can’t get out of there fast enough.

We regroup back aboard Inishnee still having the old motor to deal with.  We decide we need a diversion and go to town.  We catch the free trolley that gives us a tour of the downtown area.  Dozens and dozens of remodel victorian homes that rent out as well as lots of hotels (50’s ish) remodeled as well.  Lots of gingerbread embellishments and colorful paint jobs.  It looks very quaint but very crowded.  We decide against eating at the Lobster House (meals starting at $25 and up), we are tired of making new friends and sweaty from the days tribulations.  So we return to the boat.  Jan make German pancakes and we called it a night.

Aug 25 

The rains during the night wash some of our salt crest from the boat.  Jim begins in earnest to ‘dispose of’ the motor via phone calls.  The Yacht club, the Yamaha dealer, Pete the helpful Marine sales guy… No one, I repeat, NO ONE will take it.  Then Jan calls out… I have a fish, I have a fish!   They bring it aboard and it is just big enough to keep.  A sea bass.  The fresh filet goes in the fridge for later.  Spirits pick up.  Jim decides enough is enough, He is leaving in the dinghy with it and one of them is NOT returning.  Sure enough, he returns sans motor.  He went to the first marina from yesterday, and gave it to a very surprised and happy boater.  That makes 4 of us!  With heavy clouds over head and feeling like we have had enough of Cape May.  We haul anchor and head for Lewes, DE.  A 15 mile sail across the mouth of the Delaware River.  We say goodbye to our dolphins friends who are catching their lunch off the channel entrance.  The sails go up, the boat heels.  We grab a bite to eat ourselves.  Then, we sail through a pod of dolphins.  Too many to count but at least 50.  Pretty freakin’ cool.  The sun is squeezing out through the clouds.  More sun.  More dolphins.  LOTS more dolphins.  Maybe 50… ?  We pass the first break wall, more dolphins.   A large jelly fish.  A ferry boat to Cape May.  Then around the second break wall.  Anchor down.  Several more jelly fish.  No swimming for us here.    The dinghy is lowered, motor too.  Jan takes a spin, gets it on plane!  (ride on the water not through it).  We  grab a bag and head to the beach on the Atlantic just over the Cape.  A few horseshoe crabs, dead and alive dot the shore.  A bird sanctuary fills the end of the cape, no entry unless you have feathers… or a permit.  We follow the path to the Atlantic.  Several beach goers line the shore, complete with SUV’s and their gear.  We sit and watch the waves, pretty happy.  Then, more dolphins. A good size pod going back and forth along the shore line.  Lots of sea birds.  We enjoy the view for quite a while then our bellies rumble so we head back.  A number of Osprey call this area home.  Fish can be seen being carried via bird talons from sea to perches on  the barge or break wall.  

Dinner tonight, fresh caught,  grilled fish!  Fried potatoes with  onions and cauliflower with mustard cream sauce.  Sunset off the bow, spectacular.  The green flash evading us still.  We finish the night with a game of Cribbage.  Jan wins.  We taught him too well.   A few stars masked by some light clouds.   

Aug 26

No need to wake early.  We need to wait till the tide shifts, about 2 pm, to head up the Delaware Bay into  the Delaware River.  We laze about.  Naps.  Second breakfast.  Watch the ferries come and go.  It is a bit choppy, the winds up a bit from the north.  We eat an early lunch then anchor up.  The current is still strong so we have to motor forward to raise it.  The salt is already showing its effects, some rust here and there, and the anchor chain does not move as easy as it should.   Lubrication on the to do list.

 The course set, we head north up the Delaware Bay.  There is considerable freight traffic.  Barges, ships and tug boats with lines going long aft towing barges for different uses.  I spot a couple of dolphins and one sea turtle.  We are hailed and hail other ships  to clarify passage intentions.  Port.  Starboard.  etc.  The waters are choppy.  The wind and current opposing each other.  As we near our destination a rouge wave breaks over us and the galley gets a thorough soaking,  counters, stove, me and dinner.  So much for keeping salt on the top sides.  A bit of sopping up and all is well.  The anchorage on the chart (Active Captain) mentions there are crab  pots to contend with.  They under estimated… In the dark, there would be no way to miss them, hundreds, many marked with black floats.  Really?  You can’t find something with color that might show up in a dusky sky?

We manage to set the anchor, missing (we think) the ‘pots’.  Dinner severed. squash and chicken wrapped with sage and bacon, white wine and finished with lemon juice. Dessert, Cannoli chips with ricotta icing.  Some Aquavit for a night cap.  The wind has died to a gentle breeze, the stars are popping out.  Our eyes are heavy.  

Aug 27

We are up early, wanting to make it to Essington, PA with a favorable tide.  All eyes on deck to dodge crab pots.  A few crab boats are here to collect their booty.   We navigate out and into the channel.  Still choppy on the water.   Sun is up.  Off to port we see a sailboat… grounded.  Looks forlorn.  High tide will be a while.  We press on.  Past Delaware City and Wilmington then Essington is in sight.  We are getting a mooring ball at the Corinthian Yacht Club.  They'll take our money, but we haven't the right credentials to attend dinner… not to mention the proper attire.  We are only 15 or so miles from Philadelphia, Pa.  Jan we leave us Saturday to fly back to reality… his skills and companionship will be greatly missed.  We showered in the basement of the Yacht Club then head to ‘town’ to see what it has to offer.  Post office, good.  We mail a package off.  Pub… better!  We grab a beverage and a snack.  Crab cakes.  They do know how to do seafood out here.  The owner of the pub welcomes us personally.  Thanks us for choosing his place.  We get info about Uber, trains and buses.  Tomorrow we will head to Philly as see the sites.  

We head next door to the Boat Club.  Same view.  Regular people and food without a membership.  We did have to disclose we are members of our (former) hometown Yacht Club… No credentials required.  No letters of recommendation.  Grab a seat, order a beverage.  ‘Welcome to town.’  More our style.  We have a brewski then back to the boat.  Dinner aboard again.  I love to cook!  We have Artichoke, parmesan chicken, garlic mash and monacan carrots.  We finish the night watching / listening the planes fly over.  We are in a flight path for Philadelphia Airport.  The moon is nearly full.  So are out bellies.  We call it a night.  

Aug 28

Philadelphia 

The night passed fairly uneventful.  A few jostlings from ships passing through.   Today is Jan’s last full day with us.  He leaves tomorrow for home, Germany via trains and planes.  We call for an Uber and get a ride to downtown Philly.  30 mins - $24.  We head to the visitors center for information and tickets (timed but free) to see Liberty Hall. On the way we stop to see the “Bell” and continue on to Liberty Hall.  The tour is worth the time.  We get to see the rooms and artifacts from the signing of the Declaration of Independence and The Constitution.  We continue on our own walking around following the guide map.  The original ‘West Wing’, Military Museum, Carpenters Hall.  Several statues.   Then we head to Penn’s Landing.  The waterfront is quite pleasant.  We tour the Independence Seaport Museum, A submarine and an old Navy ship that could travel by engine or sail power.  It’s interior is more like a cruise ship  than the ‘modern’ navy ships we have toured.  There is woodwork everywhere.  Real furniture, Wooden doors and embellishments.  Next we head to Elereth’s Alley.  Is is one on the oldest neighborhoods in the city and the east coast.  A national Historic Landmark.  Quaint row houses built side by side.  The occupant /  owners wanted a back yard so they opted to have no passage between homes allowing for  the space in the back.  They are decorated as they would have been (?) in the 1700’s, at least the facade from the cobblestone street in the front.

The afternoon waining, we make a plan to head to the boat via subway and train.  Then discover our ‘pass’ does not cover the train, so we will take the bus connection instead.  The bus takes us all over through neighborhoods, industrial parks and airport venues.  It is nearly 1 and a half hours to go the 15 miles.  Back aboard, we celebrate Jan’s last dinner aboard with grilled steaks.  A few toasts to our travels and friendship.  He has really been great company and crew.  Sitting the cockpit after dinner, the evening plane traffic is in full swing.  We are in the flight path and they fly nearly directly over us.  The airport is only a few miles away.  We can see their lights reflecting in the cockpit. All around us, music from the hotel bar, laughter from the ‘Boat Club’, pretty lights from the Yacht Club, horns from a train.  Wakes from other  boats.  Another pretty decent night.    

Aug 29  Saturday

We took our time getting up today.  Only one pressing thing on the agenda.  We  need to head to Philly by early afternoon, Jan must return to his other life today (sad face).  Jim made french toast for breakfast.  Jan organized his gear for the journey ahead.  We showered at the Yacht Club.  We take the dinghy back and forth, the new motor is working great!  Because the tides here are quite high, 7 feet, we have to ‘beach’ the dinghy every trip on the floating dock.  If we leave it in the water, two things can happen.  1: the wave action could beat it up pretty good.  2: It would be nearly aground at low tide.

We head to the city around noon.  Uber.  We get to the train station with about 35 minutes to spare. Jan will take a train from here to New York to catch his flight.  Jan’s train is on time, several others on delay.  We bit him farewell, safe travels and good luck.  He starts his new job Tuesday.  

Jim and I decide to see a few more historical sites.  Benjamin Franklin's grave site at Christ Church burial grounds.  Betsy Ross’ home and burial plot.  Then we head to Reading Terminal Market.  It is an amazing collection of great ethnic restaurants, markets: fish, meat, and produce, household items and gifts.  All under one roof.  We order a real Philly Cheese Steak, a lot like an Italian beef.  Quite tasty.  We decide to call it a day and head home, Uber style.  A lady driver this time.  We get dropped off at the West End Boat Club next to the Yacht Club we are staying at.  This place is hoppin’.  Earlier today they had a Catfish Tournament.  Nearly every seat is taken.  We find a table in a corner on the deck outside.  A couple beverages and some coconut shrimp as we watch a couple’s photo shoot for their wedding next door.  Looks like our boat will be in a few pictures as a back drop.  When we see the bride and groom head in for their festivities we take our cue and head to the boat.  The planes are gearing up for their evening passover.  We hear from Jan, he was the last to board the plane but he is safely on his way.

Aug 30
After waking we did a few boat chores in preparation for the next leg, the Chesapeake Bay.  We had a chat with Jan via Skype, he had a heck a of a trip home.  He transferred to a subway in New York after the Amtrak train ride, but someone jumped on the subway track and... it didn't end well for them.  So Jan was late getting to the airport, then had to persuade the airline his back pack didn't need special handling (read packaging material $$ )... which made him the LAST person on the plane... but he is home and ready for a nap after over 24 hours of travel.
After getting our things in order we headed off to get showers and then for groceries, it will be a couple days before we can get fresh goodies.  I met Debbie while at the Yacht Club.  She hooked us up with Julie who gave us a ride to the grocery store.  Hooray!  We Uber'ed home, too many things to carry.  Then I did a huge, HUGE !!! blunder on my part.    The fridge door slipped from my hand (top loading) and ... broke the wooden / tile door / hinge  ... Jim got out the epoxy, duct tape and tension straps... please work!!!!   I stowed the rest of the groceries.  The epoxy needed to set up so... we are off the the West End Boat Club next door.  We were welcomed by Bill, the Club President.  It is  deffinatly our kind of place.  Working class, fun loving, happy people (the drinks are priced well too).  The internet is the fastest we have had in our 2 1/2 months traveling.   I am  planning dinner aboard, but if I have another gin we'll be eating here... there are worse things.

PS.... the door fix worked!

New York City

Aug 17

dinghy dock, 79th street basin

NYC !!!  We pulled the anchor a bit after 7 this morning.  The Tappan Zee bridge just ahead.  The state of New York is building a new 4 Billion dollar bridge next to the old one.  It is in need of too many repairs to fix.  A staggering number for one bridge.  As we pass by / under, the see 20 - 30 cranes, barges of all sorts with tugs coming and going.  Police pattroling the area to enforce the no wake zone.  A crew boat dropping off  the next shift.  Earlier this week, we passed a ‘shipyard’ with HUGE I-beams… we guessed at the time what they might be for.  Now we know.  Bridge trusses and supports.  The bridge spans about 2 miles, more with the approach ramps.  It appears to be in the initial stages of construction.  Only a few vertical structures in place but tons of activity everywhere along the new placement.  

To starboard are steep rock cliffs; New Jersey, in contrast to the urban New York side.  Heavily populated. Industry, housing, churches.  

In the distance, we can see a city outline… can it be New York already?  We are still about 20 miles away.  The sky is thick with haze, 10 am.  It is already verging on hot… nearing 80.  

central park

A bit further, we can see the George Washington Bridge.  Majestic, the sun illuminating the silver metal of the 2 spires.  And as the sun burns off the mist and haze, Yonkers to port.  The current is going against us about a knot.  A call to the 79th Street Basin marina informs us there are NO mooring balls for transients today.  Anchor of move on.  So, we anchor.  At the END of the mooring field as instructed… over mile from the marina via dinghy.  Yes, we still have to pay or we can’t use their dinghy dock.  It’s only $26 dollars.  Still quite a bargain for being at the base of the city.  The tide is going up s we drop the hook, 1pm.  We grab a bite to eat aboard, pack a shore bag and head to the Big Apple!  The dinghy ride is uneventful but takes a while.  We tie up and make our way to the office.  The attendant is less than helpful or polite.  One of the only ‘games’ in town, she apparently doesn't need to be.  

Rockefeller center

We head up the pedestrian path and onto 79th street.  Jan was here a few years ago and has a good idea where to go and how to get around.  We decide on Central Park first.  It is lovely.  Huge Elms that survived the ‘Dutch Elm Disease’ are plentiful through out.  Bicycle carts can be wet by the minute, a driver (peddler) taking you around the park.  There are huge outcroppings of rock everywhere adding to the beauty of the park.  A few lake / ponds and lots of vendors with quick eats or beverages.  There are free concerts and movies featured at different venues and dates throughout the park.  Sadly, Elf is no where to be seen.  

We continue on heading in the general direction of Times Square.  Just as we are about to leave the park, a bit of a pedestrian jam… “They” (?) are filming a movie.  We watch a few takes… the same scene then continue.  Non of us recognize the actors, but we have snaps just incase.  It is a bit of a hike to Times Square.  It is HOT.  I am melting… The guys take pitting on me and we stop for ice coffee.  

Times Square.  It is amazing.  It is lots of people.  It is LOTS of electronic flashing billboards.  Tons of tourists… It seems impossible that thousands of people can fit in this relatively small area on New Years Eve.  We see the ‘Ball’, and a couple of nearly naked girls… They are wearing paint and a G string.  For a few bucks they will pose with you… Yes, he did…

street scene

We walk by NBC studios, Rockefeller Plaza (it looks WAY bigger on T.V.).  A stop and pay homage to the Late Show (sign) with Stephen Colbert!  I am nearly a puddle, so the guys start us on the long, hot path home.  The City is much more grand than I imagined.  It seems very diverse in inhabitants and architecture.  Old and new mingling together.  A couple of sweat breaks for me on the way back.  Then the loooong ride back to the boat.  

Feet up.  Watching the City.  The breeze cooling the afternoon and us down.  I check the maps app to see where we are in relation to the City, just off Grants Tomb.  The boat is swinging at anchor off from 102 street.  

Aug 18   NCY

New York City sky line

Our night was cut short by a bit of a squall.   The rain started about 5 am, we quick closed the hatches and got to the cockpit just as the skies started dumping in earnest.   Pillows and cushions and anything that might take flight getting tossed below while we were given a morning shower, minus the soap.  The wind peaked at 26 knots.  We are swinging all over as are the other boats.  The wind and tide / current fighting each other and tossing us all about.  Our closest neighbor a huge, old wooden ketch, Styrr, bounces to and fro in front of us.  His boat looks like something from Pirates of the Caribbean.  The captain is from Sweden, the boat registered in one of the ‘Islands’… he looks like you might expect a captain to look like living on a cool, old ship.  Long, shady blonde hair.  No shirt, a mysterious scar on his chest.  And a great accent from a faraway place.  

We try to get some sleep but the wind is whistling, the anchor alarm sounding, and the jostling about keep us on our toes.  Within the hour all is calm again and we catch a bit more sleep.  

We missed the out-going tide for our ride to the dinghy dock due to our ‘second sleep’ so it’s slow going to shore, the current against us.  A quick stop at ‘Styrr’ to say good morning.  

We catch the subway (can you say air conditioned!) to South Ferry, / Battery Park at the end of the peninsula, then the Staten Island Ferry (free) to Staten Island.  There are several running back and forth and they all look packed with people.  It is amazingly efficient and fast.  We pass by Elis Island and The Statue of Liberty, Liberty Island.  We can see the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge and the Brooklyn Bridge as well, as we make our way over and back.  There is a L O T of shipping and ferry traffic here giving us an idea what we will face in a few days when we head out into the blue water of the Atlantic!  

new friends

We head to China Town for lunch.  A quick stroll through Little Italy and then a treat for me… Taro Bubble Tea… (Julia, it was awesome… thanks for telling me about it!)  With temps near ninety, what do we do?  How about a walk over the Brooklyn Bridge… The pedestrian / bike path goes over / above the auto traffic.  It is worth the walk, even in the heat. We take a break for a nap at Brooklyn Bridge Park before heading back toward home… Transportation: the East River Ferry $4 each… While waiting for our boat we see a sailboat coming through the pass just as one of 2 ferry boats backs out… it’s a close call.  The current is rippin’ through here.  (The worst part of the channel is called ‘Hell’s Gate’.)  The second ferry boat backs out, doesn't see the sail

boat as it is hidden by the first ferry boat… how they missed each other is remarkable… The next ferry is ours.  We are off and it is fast!  We disembark at 34th street… think movie titles.  We walk west more or less to catch the Red Line subway back to 79th street.  All day we have been skirting the new One World Trade Center / Freedom Tower… It is always looming over and around us.  It is awe inspiring.  We plan to visit there before we leave N.Y.   The City is incredibly big.  Walking so much of it gives a unique perspective.  We catch the subway, then head to a deli cafe for dinner before calling it a night.  

The tide is against us again giving us the extra practice in wave dodging.  Getting aboard is a challenge as well, the boat lurching up and down, the dinghy going exactly opposite the boats movements.  Timing is critical, the step being either a few inches of a few feet, while sloshing all over the place.  We abort the plan to use the aft ladder and climb over the side rail where it is safer and less challenging.  The dinghy and us properly secured  and aboard, we sit back and breath a sigh of relief.  We have covered a LOT of ground today and barely seen what the city has to offer… We are so thank to Jan as our tour guide. He remembered what and how to get to all the hot spots from his trip here 3 years ago.  

Aug 19    NYC

We were able to get going and catch the tide still heading out.  We will need fuel for the dinghy soon or we’ll be stuck aboard… While the guys use the showers, I noticed a few of the workers from the pier / barge adjacent to the dinghy dock working near the gate entrance for the marina.  Idea… I ask them if they can help us locate gas within walking distance.  The foreman Dean says, ‘hang on… I’ll get you some.”  And he takes off down the dock.  Lamas, one of the other men in charge, takes the time to have a nice chat with us.  He is third generation Mexican.  Worked hard as did his father and grandfather. He never finished high school but was able to earn a captains license for tug boats, the one we pass every day being used for the barge.  He also is a skilled crane operator.  Very proved of his heritage and hard work. Dean returns with the fuel, Jim fills our tank for the dinghy then returns the can, very grateful.  We fully intend to pay but they wave us off.  ‘Pay it forward’…. we are so grateful.  They have been so generous and helpful, saving us lots of trouble.  

With that behind us, we continue on with the days itinerary.  First up, the subway to South Ferry and Battery Park to continue on by ferry to Liberty Island and the Statue of Liberty.  We choose the audio tour, giving a bit of history mixed with narratives.  

When the Statue was dedicated women weren't allowed to go the the dedication.  They had little to no rights and couldn't vote.  The Statue of Liberty, a symbol of freedom, depicted as a woman… yet women couldn't attend… A number of women activists hire boats to take them out and they protested via boat, this is irony.  

subway

We continued on, the boat stoping at Ellis Island, we did not get off.  Back at Battery Park we walk the short distance to One World Trade Center and Memorial Museum.  We had Indian cuisine for lunch… fabulous!  

Brooklyn Bridge

The ‘Ground Zero’ sight has been transformed into an awe inspiring site.  The footprint for the ‘Twin  Towers’ is now lines with 500 White oaks and each building site is now a pool that flows into the depths of the earth.  The names of those lost are etched into the granite perimeter housing the

Natural History Muse

World Trade Center Museum

pools.  Off to the side is the new One World Trade Center.  Grand and dominating the space, as a guardian overseeing her loved ones.   Our volunteer guide, George, was very passionate and informative.  He pointed out numerous things we may have missed.  One, a solitary Flowering Pear tree.  About 20 feet in height.  After the dust had settled and the awful task of clean us began, a lone tree was discovered.  It was nearly completely burnt, all but its roots.  The tree was exhumed and placed in expert hands where it was nurtured for 9 years.  It survived and has been returned to the grounds.  The tree has continued to thrive and produce seedlings every year.  They are harvested and planted as sites across the country where other tragedies have occurred.  A symbol of resilience and tenacity!  

The museum itself is beyond words. The bulk of the museum and it’s artifacts are under ground, set at and in the literal foundation of the Twin Towers.  I can not possibly due it justice.  I hope you will come for yourself.  What I will say is it was very sobering and inspiring.  Beautiful and tragic.   We left there with heavy hearts and lost in our thoughts.  

We called it a day and caught the subway for home.  We stopped at a local grocer just a few blocks from the marina.  Holy cheese bat man!  They had the largest ready to eat food selection I have ever seen.  We filled the basket and were off.  Our bellies full we finished date evening reflecting of today.  Political discussions trying to solve the worlds injustices.  

Aug 20     More NYC…

Times Square

We took it a bit easy today.  Jan did a bike tour on the city.  Jim and I toured the Natural History Museum, A Night Day at the Museum. We spent from 10 - 4 in the museum.  It was quite well done.  Displays, movies, inter-actives. After a visit from my old acquaintance Senior Back Spasssm, I was ready to call it a day.  We grabbed a late lunch at a pub then met up with Jan.  He had had quite a time today.  Two flat tires on his rental bike trip, then a lot of hills in Harlem to contend with, all up of course.  Back aboard we relaxed, then hit the bunks early.  

Aug 21

NYC - Atlantic Highlands / Sandy Hook

Needing to do a few ‘projects’ before heading out, Jim and I stay aboard while Jan headed to the city.  We plan to leave tomorrow for Sandy Hook, NJ. then an over night run to the Delaware River and the Chesapeake Bay.   Butttt, fate had other ideas.  Jan didn't even make it to the dock when the dinghy motor quit and he had to row the last few yards.  Try as he might it would NOT restart.  The good news, our mail had a arrived at the marina and after many inquiries, Jan was able to get a tow back to the boat.  The shore plan abandoned.  The weather was in our favor and with our mail, we decided to head out for Sandy Hook, NJ then and there.  But, fate again stepped in.  The anchor did not want to free up from the bottom.  We throttled forward, then back. The winch pulling with all the power it had.  The boat bucking with the strain. The current throwing in its 2 cents.  The anchor chain was lodged around something… a rock? another anchor?   car? … It did eventually relinquish it’s hold and we were off, two sweaty guys and a thankful crew.  There was considerable traffic to dodge, but Maritime rules were followed and we all stayed clear of each other.  Ferries being the the most prolific of all the traffic in the channel.  We passed One World Trade Center then Elis Island and Lady Liberty.  It is a most impressive sky line. New York Harbor is littered with barges and ships waiting for cargo: to receive and deliver.  We cross under the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge  And, we are officially in the Atlantic!   Salt water.  We have a pretty uneventful motor across the harbor on to Sandy Hook / Atlantic Highlands.  We are able to get a mooring bay for the night.  We eat aboard then use the marina tender to go ashore, get showers and a preliminary look about town.  We spend some time and money at the On The Deck harbor restaurant.  Good internet so we can get caught up on emails, blogs, etc. 

Aug 22

Atlantic Highlands / Sandy Hook
We got some groceries, fixed (we think) the dinghy motor... and if all goes well we are off to the Chesapeake Bay !  

The Hudson River

Aug. 12

Hudson River :  Castleton on the Hudson . 

We have a number of items on the to-do list.  Eat at Don and Paul’s Coffee Shop for breakfast.  A local breakfast dinner / pool hall combo… Wonder if our kids remember Franklin, Kentucky?  Similar but less grease to sop up.   Next the bank for a notary signature… a few legal documents to send off and then a run to the post office for our mail.  Finally, groceries.  The harbor master / town wall has an arrangement with the grocery store… you can cart your groceries back to your boat (5 blocks) with their carts.  Leave the cart under the covered porch by the restrooms.  The grocer picks them up weekly… So we load up on supplies.  When you don't have to carry the goods on your back or in shopping bags… Woo Hoo!   Make it count.  The cart near capacity, we have to have an escort for the cart to the edge of the parking lot… The carts (wheels) have an electronic lock mechanism built in… They freeze up when you get to the curb.  The guys lift the cart up and onto the sidewalk, the store clerk deactivated the theft device from the wheels and we are good to go.  Over the Hudson River and back to the boat.  I stow the groceries, the guys put the lights and wind instruments back on the mast head by pivoting the boat so the mast is just about even with the dock.  Then, we are off.  It’s already noon.  

We have decided to go down the Hudson to Castleton on the Hudson and the Castleton Boat Club to step the mast.  about 25 miles down river.  We have 1.2 knot or so current, the waters are still muddy from the rains yesterday.  We are about 150 miles from New York city but there are tides reaching this far up.  Mother Nature is pretty awesome!  We pass Albany, NY., then a few refineries and industrial sites.  Before long, we are at the Marina / Boat Club.   It is parallel and open to the Hudson River.  We pass by, come about so we can dock into the wind and current.  One of the Boat Club Members greets us.  Within a short time we have the run of the place.  The Club lets reciprocating Club members use the Gin Pole (la crane) to de / re mast their boats.  It is all do-it-yourself however.  We pay the $50.00 for the use of their equipment.  An electric hoist Gin Pole.  Jim says it will be just like setting an electric pole… No problem!  Done it hundreds of times… OK.  Within an hour we are hard at it.  Jim rigs the lines, Jan helps to guide the mast as does Jim and I get to run the hoist controls!   It goes off without a hitch!  We started the project just after 3:30and by 7 the mast was in and secure enough to relax and have a bite to eat.  Tired but feeling pretty good about the days accomplishments.  

Another amazing day.  

Aug 13 Castleton on the Hudson / Castleton Boat Club

Very bad men.... Dan and John

Jim starts the day tensioning the rigging.  We run lines for the sheets, bring the boom and whisker pole aboard and return them to working order.  Then the sails.  The weather cooperates, partly cloudy and just a bit of a breeze.  The only issue are boats speeding by.  The floating docks and boats bouncing around reacting to the  wakes.  This part of the river has no speed limit but most boaters slow down when passing by.  Several freighters and tugs pushing barges pass by as well.  We continue working into mid day.  The sails go on without any trouble.  Jim hooks up the wiring for the electronics at the base of the mast.  Jan and I get to work cleaning the top sides.  The last 2 weeks of de-masting, motoring through canals and locks, a few rains and wind have made a mess.  The lock walls with their algae growing on the tether lines and rubbing onto the fenders has left green smudges in numerous places.  A bit os tiles and some elbow grease and she's back looking pretty good.  We are done around 4pm… a little over 24 hours after arrival.  We shower and head to the clubhouse.  It is private and members pay a nominal fee to join but all are expected to volunteer for events and ‘work’ to keep the place running.  After dinner Jan gets a fire going in the fire pit.  We are joined by a couple of Boat Club members: John and Dan… who turn out to be ‘very bad men’ ! They bought us a few rounds of beverages and we are up till the REAL midnight… John brings out some snacks and Dan follows suit with homemade meatballs that are fantastic!  We drag ourselves down the boat ramp and to bed… heads pretty fuzzy.  We had a great visit with these guys… 

Maritime Museum

The Castleton Boat Club is hosting a speed boat race Saturday.  Top speeds in excess of 100 miles and hour rivaling the Amtrak the speeds by several times a day… 90 -110 MPH !!!   Slips are at a premium and rafting off will be necessary.  The parking lot will be closed to street traffic, allowing for and auto show.

Aug 14 Kingston

The night is cut short with sunrise and our departure at 6am.  We now have to consider the current and the tide flow to plan our departures accordingly.  It is cool as we cast off lines, our heads tired and foggy from the evenings shenanigans.  The river is wide and ships and tugs going up and down throughout the morning.  We each take a nap en-route.  

Vanderbilt Mansion Cottage

Kingston arrival just afternoon, 50+ miles the current boosting our speed and time.  We choose the ‘free’ dock infant of Ole Savannah Southern Table and Bar.  The service provide with the expectation you'll dine with them… We will.  The smoke house meats are already getting to our hungry tummies.  The town is built along the Rondout Creek and along a steep hillside.  We walk around town, tour the Maritime Museum and then more chores for Jim.  The oil needs to be changed due to all the motoring… 

Hyde Train Station

Our dinner is pretty good and the setting is amazing in what was the Cornell Steamboat Company shops.  The Steamboat company dominated the towing industry on the Hudson from 1880 -the 1930’s.  The restaurant has left the building structure and overhead hoists and mechanism in place.  Seating indoor or out (overlooking the beautiful Inishnee!).  We luck out as tomorrow is the classic boat show here in town.  We get front row seats to nearly all the oldies passing by as they make their way to their nearby slips.  

Aug 15

Hyde Park

We’ll have a favorable tide / current about 9 - noon down stream.  We took a quick stroll past the boat show boats then off for Hyde Park about 9 am.  It’s getting warm enough already to shed the extra morning layer but the wind is cool for the helmsman.  There are quite a few lighthouses along the way, proudly keeping watch.  The homes are getting bigger and more stately.  

storm front passing through

I get some practice today piloting the boat as we catch a mooring ball.   We are just off the Hyde Park train station, now a museum.  A short walk to the Vanderbilt’s spring / fall home known to the family as the ‘cottage’, as it was the smallest of their estates.   It is a National Park now and nearly everything inside is original and in good repair.  The original house that came with the property was converted to a pavilion for parties as well as a guest house after the Vanderbilt’s purchased it.  They built the new ‘Italian’ inspired mansion including a lovely garden with pond and sculptures a short stroll from it.  Volunteers keep the grounds in pretty good order relying on donations for plantings, etc… We take the free shuttle to Franklin D. Roosevelt's home.  We weren't able to get a home tour due to availability, but we toured the grounds and paid our respects at his final resting place amongst the flower garden, his mothers favorite place on the estate.   Continuing, we shuttle to Eleanor Roosevelt's ‘get away’ home, then to Franklin’s getaway home… all several miles apart… Again, unfortunately no tour just a look see and drive by as others exited the shuttle for their tours.  Back at the Vanderbilt Mansion, we took our secret path home along the creek.  Pete the marina / mooring ball attendant gave us the shortcut directions following the creek near the river.  Before heading back to the boat via dingy we took a quick tour of the Hyde Park Train Station.  F.D.R. used the station when coming an going from the city.  His body was also brought back through here after his death.  It is absolutely awesome to see these places,  having learned about them through school, books and documentaries. 

West Point 

View from our anchorage

We had a refreshing Mandarin Orange Salad for dinner.  It has been near ninety all day.  While relaxing in the cockpit and talking to friends Jake and Sue from home, the wind kicks up, the skies open up and the conversation ends abruptly.  We grab pillows and cushions and head below where it is hot and stuffy.  The rain pours down, lightning erupting to the west then overhead.  The wind instruments register 20 then 25 knots then blank out as a crack of lightning sends shivers through us.  The flag is snapping sideways, the boat turns 45 degrees while heeling over 10 degrees.  The skies are dark except for the lightning illuminating the sky.  Forgotten items in the cockpit begin to topple over and blow about, but we managed to rescue all wayward items.  15 minutes later, all is calm.  The sky now flashing to the east, a bit like the 4th of July fireworks, ohhhh, ahhhh, wow!   Then another blow and a down pour, quick lived.  More lightening as we sit watching the show from the soggy but cool cockpit.  The winds down to 3 knots.  Another train speeds by, a freighter passes and it is time to call it a night.  The radar looks clear with possible light rains throughout the night.  

Aug 16

Roundland Lake State Park / Ossining 

Jim quoting Rosanna Rosanna Dana ‘ if it ain’t one thing, it’s another…’

Tappan Zee Bridge 

Feeling rested but groggy we decided to depart about 7am to have a favorable current for most of the day.  We plan to go about 45 - 50 miles.  It is pretty foggy out too.  We have relied on Jan A LOT so… we decide to give him a break and Jim and I would drop the ball and motor out.  I get helm duty.  Jim up front grabs the boat hook to pull the bridle (lines going to the mooring ball) up to unhook them.  He pulls with all him might… they won’t budge. Jan it call to help.  Both pulling, it barely budges.  I idle the boat forward to ease the tension from the lines.  The bridle lines are wrapped around the chain for the mooring ball.   Clarification : Pete the mooring ball / marina attendant told to NOT use the mooring ball eye to secure the boat:  ‘use the chain itself. You can pull it up using the blue floats…’  So we did.  Probably not a problem most days but with the storm last night and the swing of the boat with the winds, then the current shift from up stream to down stream… we have a tangled mess.  It took both guys a considerable effort to heave up the ball, pull and tug on the lines, untwist and repeat to get us free.  about 15  minutes of sweaty work at 7am… but we are off.  The river continues to widen, the landscape getting more dramatic with rock cliffs and mountainous backdrops.  We cross under numerous bridges, dozens and dozens of commuter trains going to and from New York all day.  Coming around a bend we spot West Point amongst the mountains cliffs.  It is a formidable looking structure, having started as a Fort and now the home of Army Cadets.   What does one do to commemorate passing here?… (Jim)  How about get a hair cut?  I have no way to authenticate it but I'm pretty sure this could be the a first.    

New York Coty on the Horizon

We make a stop for diesel where Jim earned his Masters in Maneuverability.  Our boat does  NOT turn well in tight spaces or back up in a straight line.  We prefer a   W  I  D   E  area.  The fuel dock was a sliver of floating timbers, on a cement wall with maybe 50 foot wide channel with pilings and boats marking the other side of the cannel.   Our boat is 40 long plus the dinghy = 45.  We HAD to turn the boat to fuel and eventually get back to the river.  Jim did some fancy throttle work and was able to somehow turn the boat.  Jan on the dock said there was maybe 2 feet of clearance between the bow and the dock!!!!  The fuel topped off, we head out and across the Hudson to anchor for the night.  The days of free slips and walls are behind us.  We will have to pay $2 - 5 a foot (X40) for slips nightly, slightly less for mooring balls due to the proximity of New York City 25 miles down river!  

We selected a spot, dropped the hook and he guys jumped in.  The air temps today topped at 91 F, the river water 88.6 F !  The water is pretty murky looking.   The rain runoff  and surrounding farm lands emptying into it.  The Hudson River is on the Super Fund clean up list… Portions having just received the approval for clean up with funding. 

Our back door tonight: The Tappan Zee Bridge to the south, a new bridge being built alongside it.  Sing Sing Correctional Facility to the east. Rockland Lake State park directly to the west, cliffs towering over us.  

We are still melting in the heat and just setting back and trying to catch a breeze.  A cool Greek Pasta Salad for dinner.  With a fresh evening breeze setting in, Jim goes up the mast to free up a snagged line for flags on the starboard side.  Mast climbing: a sailors version of mountain climbing.  The ‘day ball’ hanging from the port flag halyards to tell others we are at anchor.   At dark the anchor light goes on to alert the boats we are here.  A cool breeze is making it’s way into the cabin finally.  Sleeping should be good, bobbing on the hook with the temps steadily dropping.  No lights from shore shining on us.  No trains whizzing by.  As I look up tonight from my seat the bow, I saw my first star: “Star light, star bright, first star I see to night…”   but I really have nothing much to wish for.  I feel sooooo incredibly fortunate.  I grant my wish to you… thanks for reading my silly ramblings.