Aug 7
Oneida Lake to Rome
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| Oneida Lake |
Sunny and cool we set off on Oneida Lake. There was a fishing fleet out this morning, a 3 day tournament this weekend. $2,000 to enter. Grand prize: $40,000. Then the moment we have been waiting for…. the auto pilot was put to work. Yah Hoo! We still have to keep a lookout but wide open water means a relaxed morning at the helm. So relaxed, I get in a loooong nap in. We stop for lunch at the east end of the lake. Sylvan Beach free dock. No services = no showers for 3 days and counting… Sylvan Beach is a mix of 50’s meeting head on with today. One of the first things you see is the 1950’s amusement park. Still functioning but in desperate need of paint and maybe some nuts and bolts? There is even a burlap sack slide. Farther into the town area the are convenience stores, gas stations and restaurants. The sandy beach side is lined with lovely cottages and rental homes. The state part beach is closed… algae bloom yet immediately adjacent to it the public beach… open and filled with swimmers and beach goers. The town is celebrating ‘Canal Days’ … tomorrow. grrrr.
After checking things out we decide to continue on. In short order we are at Lock 22 and 21, there locations very close together… These are both lift locks for those heading east. The turbulence created with the influx of fill water keeps us on our toes. Pushing and pulling to and from the concrete walls. Again, it fills amazingly fast, 50 feet in 5-ish minutes. The Lock Operator says this lock holds 2.5 million gallons of water. He graciously filled it slowly for us…. we thank him.
Continuing through, we see parts of the original lock to the south, then a fawn on the north bank. The first really wild life the whole canal trip. This stretch is very wild looking, with an occasional glimpse of the original canal path here and there. Again today we comment about the lack of canal traffic. We are often the only boat in any direction except near a town or village.
Up ahead Rome. Home to many Italian immigrants during the expansion of the country. The Erie Canal providing work and new land for those brave enough to work hard. Rome is also home to the restored Fort Stanwix. The guide book says to allow at least 3 hours to tour… We will be staying put for 2 nights in a row! But, no wifi at the town (free) dock. The walk to town is quite far. About a mile. There is a power facility and county equipment buildings between us and town. The feeder river to the canal is quite close to the free dock with a small dam. The trains runs by here often. Like REALLY often. They are loud and in the last hour, a train has gone by 6 times… Our initial walk to town clued us in to the “Cruise In’ tonight in the ‘Little Italy’ part of town. Jim and I opt out, having had our fill of car shows, etc. but Jan heads out to check it out. He is back before long. Nothing too exciting other than cars. |
| some locks are leaky'er than others... |
Aug 8
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We head to Fort Stanwix early Saturday morning. To our surprise admission is free, commemorating the anniversary of the 3 week siege involving the British and the Colonial Revolutionaries. The Fort was build by the British for the French Union War then abandon after the war. the The Colonial Revolutionaries took over the fort, the British tried to recapture it but retreated upon seeing they were outnumbered. The American Colonials kept the Fort, which became instrumental in winning the Revolutionary War. Skip ahead a couple hundred years… a city block complete with homes, shops and streets took it’s place. The city of Rome, nearing the bicentennial of the country (1976) decided to apply for and received grant $$ to demolish the block structures, excavate and rebuild the Fort. Today volunteers and a few paid personnel run the Nation Park. Compete with muskets, artifacts, clothing and household items from the time period. While touring, we were able to see a musket firing demonstration.
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| His clothes are the real deal... 200 + years old |
It was in horrible shape but held to gather in just enough places for our imaginations to run wild with images and scenarios about it’s life. We found a notice on the ‘gift shop’ window helping to explain what we were seeing. In May of this year, the ‘village’ was purchased and taken over by a historical society. They plan to renovate and refurbish this once glorious piece of U.S. history. The work ahead of them is beyond my grasp. When complete, it will be worth a trip back.
We called our cab to retrieve us, we waited nearly an hour… Hot and tired from standing the the sun… We opted to get groceries on the return trip and walked back to the boat from the grocer.
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| The second canal ... |
After dinner while relaxing in the cockpit we were approached by a man and his wife. How did we like our stay? Did you enjoy town? Where are you headed? As it turns out, he’s the Mayor of Rome! Out for a stroll with his wife and grandson. Joe Fusco Junior. His grandson, Joe Fusco the 4th… After a really nice chat he shakes Jim hand and slips him something…. ? Upon inspection it’s a commemorative coin… Air force Sergeants Association / Chapter 174 / Honor America Days Fort Stanwix : Rome NY… We had discussed our sons being in the military…. A lovely token for our memorabilia of the voyage… Thank You Joe !!!!
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| The Original Canal... VERY over grown |
We headed to Savoy’s for some night life. Opened in1908 and operated by the same family since. Italian throughout. Family recipes, piano bar, portraits of family and events filling the walls and shelves. When in Rome… an authentic Italian restaurant… what does one order? A cannoli ! Chocolate dipped, ricotta creaminess, chocolate chips throughout. Exactly the kind I hate! NOT… it was Aaaawesoooome… Having made it up passed boaters midnight yet again, we called it a night and walked the long dimly lit sidewalk home. Another lovely day here on the canal.
We are told that Rome is the highest point on the Erie Canal. The waters flow east or west from this point.
Aug 9
Pressing on, we left shortly after our ‘wall mates’. They are traveling on a custom 56 !!! foot boat. Headed for Beaufort SC. They are 1 week out from Detroit… making incredible time. Today was fairly uneventful. We have a couple of ‘up’ locks then begin the down hill to the Hudson River where we will be a sailboat again. We passed numerous highways and over(under)passes… Several tributary rivers feeding in and out of the canal. Today’s destination, Little Falls, NY. A lovely town nestled between the Adirondacks and the Catskill mountains. The rock walls sneaking out amongst the trees every now and then. Beautiful.
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| Mayor Joe and family |
We met a couple completing their 'on and off' journey from Ontario, Canada by way on Nova Scotia. 4 years in the making, traveling summers. We got a good tip from them about a navigation website that will be helpful with the tides and currents we will be encountering in a week or so: Navionic. We also have our first WIFi that works in almost 2 weeks. We are in cyber heaven… catching up on news (probably should have skipped it) and emails and the like… The town wall charges by the foot, $ .50. We gladly pay the $20.00, all the showers we could want ! Free WIFI that works, a lounge area with sofas and chairs, table and laundry (for a buck a load)… The harbor master, Chris, asked Jim about his Turks Head bracelet.
She had one as a child growing up near
She had one as a child growing up near
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| A beautiful afternoon |
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| Rail Road Bridge |
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| Chris and Jim... |
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| Mountain backdrop at Little Falls |
Aug 10
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| Little Falls |
We set off in the morning, knowing our next lock was around the corner… What we didn't expect was Chris! A local gal who does photography in the area. She chatted briefly with us last night and said she might see us in the morning, around the bridge / lock area…. There she was, snapping photos like mad! We waved good bye, the lock up ahead. This lock is one of only 2 remaining in the world. The lock has a regular gate on one end but the other has a draw gate with a counter balance. The drop / lift here is 40.5 feet! After securing to the wall the operator lowers the counter balance and the guard gate lift up… at the appointed time, the boats pass under both… water spewing from the guard gate wall on whatever passes below… A second shower.
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| More of Little Falls |
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| Cindy on the left... our awesome photographer friend |
The canal is much bigger to as we approach the terminal of it near Albany, NY. It is wide and tree lined and surprisingly few homes. A highway runs parallel as does a train track. Trains running constantly. One of the engineers gives us a long toot on the horn…
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| Rock Climbers |
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| counter balance for the over head lock wall |
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| exiting the over head lock |
We encounter several locks today. The wind becomes an issue as the day passes. A storm is off to our west, heading our way. The preceding winds make it difficult to hold our position in / on the lock wall. It takes all I have to keep us from going sideways. Jim decides I will drive the next couple locks while the guys handle the lines. Lock #11 gives us another fit. We can’t raise the operator on the radio. Over and over we try. Nothing. There is maintenance on the over flow wall as well, which is HUGE. Men in harnesses up in the steel structure. The operator is finally opens the gate to allow us entry… but only one door opens. We still have no contact with the operator… trying to hold our position, the wind and current pushing us… the operator comes over the radio and says there is a glitch, technical problems… hold off. He resets the lock gates and it seems to function fine… I enter, the guys secure us and we descend. The over flow from the wall is impressive… we get another boost from the current.
On to Amsterdam. We choose the ‘marina’ pay wall so we can get showers, internet, power if needed. The new manger is incredible helpful and kind.
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| Bye Cindy ... Thanks! |
Unfortunately, the is a bit of ‘harbor drama’… Jan and Jim go to help an arriving power boat. Jan took the bow line just as the driver hits reverse… but accidentally hits forward! He plows head on into the cement wall. There is nothing the guys can do… The crack and flex from the boat makes them cringe… They get the boat secure and the owner inspects for damage. It appears to not have any outward structural damage. No one is hurt either. A lucky ‘break’ for them…
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| Amsterdam town wall |
We have a pleasant dinner a board them off to town. It is the oddest marina / town wall we have seen. The water from has a beautiful new park, a restaurant (closed today) and a pavilion for performances. A great out door space. The odd part?… To get to is you have to cross a pedestrian walk way with an elevator if you don’t want / can’t do the stairs. It leads to a 3 story parking garage… or you can follow the chain link fence corridor over the roof tops to the street level… Interesting. We head to ‘downtown’. A pizza joint is open, a bar / pool hall and a wine/liquor store… 8:30 Monday night. Small towns. People home with family. The good ole’ days still happening.
Aug 11
We have to renew our pass today. Will have paid $70.00 total to ‘cruise’ the canal, 11 days… what a bargain! Most of the town walls have been free or nearly so. Free water. Free pump outs.
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| Rock walls |
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| Exciting the Guard Gate |
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| Looking down at the log obstruction... |
With sleepy heads we managed to get up around 8-ish, rain pouring down… waiting for the weather to clear, we had a ‘second’ breakfast… like hobbits. 9am we put on our foulies and prepared to depart… rain or not. Jan cast off the lines, Jim throttles to reverse… turns the wheel… nothing. The wheel is frozen… ? ? ? The rudder won't turn, no way to steering! With a bit of good luck, the current and breeze push us back to the dock… Jan jumps ashore, cleating off the bow, then grabs the stern and secures it too. What the heck ? Looking aft, Jim sees a log jammed in the rudder!!! While backing up one of the numerous log / limb debris from upriver has lodged itself between the ridder and the hull. Looks to be about 10 foot long, 4 -6 inches in diameter… we pushed with the boat hooks, we prodded with them, we tried cranking on the wheel… won’t budge. Jim devised a plan to loop a rope around the log, work it back, around the boat / dinghy and to shore. With Jim and Jan both pulling it finally frees itself from the boat… We haul it a up and over the wall, blue hull paint visible from our underside. Next, Jim empties the lockers to see if there is damage to the rudder post where it enters the boat. We do a few maneuvers and all seems well. So, we are off (like hobbits) a second time. An hour behind schedule.
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| Hauling in the log |
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| Loving my new hat from Carrie! It kept me quite dry |
The rains continue. We have 9 locks to get through today. Rain or shine. There is a lot of debris along the way. The river / canal continues to widen as we progress east. Passing a nature preserve (swamp land that hasn't been drained for housing) we see a tremendous amount of birds. One bald eagle, lots of herons and egrets…
We have to renew our 10 day pass at lock #10 today. Cindy is a gem, handling our paperwork and giving us a nice something for memorabilia! She operates the lock here. One of only a couple of gals on the lock operator payroll.
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| The Flight of Locks ... 5 consecutive locks |
The rains continue, drenching us along the way… Taking turns at the wheel, Jan has the brunt of the weather on his shift. At times it is nearly impossible to see the canal banks, the buoys barely visible as well. A small break, the sun pops out but only briefly. We are nearing the final set of locks for the Erie Canal… It’s getting late. The final 5 locks today are called the ‘flight of five”, like in Lockport, but these 5 are still operational. Each lift (drop) is an average of 33 feet, so we will drop over 150 feet in about 1 miles distance. As we round the bend for the guard gate #2 that precedes the ‘flight of five’, the gate is closed, red lights flashing. No answer to the repeated radio calls. We make the decision to turn and tie to the wall. Rain water flooding over the wall from the run off. We call by phone to the lock / gate operator. Due to the heavy rains in the last 12 hours there are flash flood warnings. He has to leave Guard Gate 2 closed, unless needed. He also operates Lock 6….. He’ll prepare the lock, then come over to lift the guard gate for us…
The locks close for the day at 6pm… it is now nearly 5… We will need a bit of luck to get through them all before closing time! We enter, secure, drop and repeat… It is after 6 entering out last lock today, lock #2… (not sure why there is no #1)…
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| some debris from the rains (and my thumb) |
I have been at the helm for most of the locks, the guys have the muscle required to hold the lines with the added current… So we leave # 2 and immediately open to Waterford. Our destination, on the boundary of the Hudson River and Erie Canal. I try easing into the floating dock but I miss judged the current and wind and manage to leave a bit of gel coat (boat hull) on the dock. No serious damage, but frustrating after a long eventful day. On the plus side, I get to add another stripe to my ‘Captain Crash’ bars.
We are greeted by the harbor master who welcomes us and gives us the skinny on the area. Everything we need / want is within a 5 block radius… we have a celebratory toast in the cockpit, aware hundreds have proceeded us in the canal journey but we are elated and relieved. This is our most eventful, memorable day of our travels…. so far!
We shower and head to town for dinner.
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| Well done crew of Inishnee !!! |
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