New Jersey - Pennsylvania

New Jersey - Delaware Bay

Aug 22

Atlantic Highlands / Sandy Hook 

The guys got to work on the outboard engine first thing.  The pull cord won’t operate properly.  I prepped the cabin for our passage to Cape May, NJ.  If we can make 5 -6 knots per hour we will have about a 26 - 28 hour passage, overnight keeping watch in 3 hour shifts.  With a bit of time on my hands, I took the opportunity to make ‘Artha’s Pecan Pie’…. Thank you Artha for the recipe ! 

The guys got the outboard apart and we headed to shore to find a repair shop for parts and get groceries.  Saturday late morning, we could find nothing open as far as repair shops, however a stop at the NAPA Auto / Marine store was a great help.  Jim had the culprit part in hand and between the clerk and Jim, they diagnosed the problem and fixed it on the spot.  A bent metal thing (?) that needs to swivel.  Off to the grocer and a cab ride back, too many bulk items to carry even with 3 people.  With the passage and the next phase of the Delaware River we will be anchoring a lot so we stocked up on goods.  

Back aboard the guys went about putting the part back on the outboard… 2 hours later, (NO cussing! ) and several start overs, the guys took a break for a late lunch.  I went to shore to post our latest blog…   s l o o o o w   internet….. rebooted several times ….. grrrrr ….. I’d had enough so I headed back to the boat hoping something made it to cyber space.

The guys, still in good spirits, were still at it.  Having just discovered they had just wound the  ‘coil spring’ the wrong way… so they were re-winding it the right way.  A couple gentle pulls… SUCCESS !  It is now after 3pm, 4 hours of ‘fixing’.   The outboard is back to gather, we are all sweaty.  We need water and the mooring ball has a new occupant coming in.  We tossed the mooring bridle off and went to the marina dock to get water.  It’s a bit of a slow process filling the water tanks so we each were able to get a quick shower before we completed filling the tanks.  The day had pretty much gotten away from us so we decided to anchor for the night.  Relax and get an early start Sunday morning.  Had we left in the late afternoon, we would have made our destination in the dark, had to navigate unfamiliar territory and anchor.  So, we had a nice dinner aboard and then desert… It was fantastic…. again, thank you Artha!  

Jan had heard there was a free concert in town and Jim wanted to see if the fix to the outboard would hold up to a ride to shore ( and back).  So we headed in.  The fix was good, but something is still making it gurgle and quit when not at full throttle.  hmmmm.  

Ashore.  A few years ago this community and other nearby towns were devastated by Super Storm Sandy.  Everything in the marina was wiped out.  EVERYTHING.  Since then they have rebuilt. It is new and top notch.  The town itself had quite a bit of rebuilding to do as well.  Store fronts / interiors, new.  Street lights / electrical, new.  Businesses back up and running and seem to be doing well.  From the anchorage / marina and town the skyline of New York City can be seen.  It is a really lovely community.  Seems to have all the necessities and more.  Restaurants, seafood, treats, etc…  

We head toward the live music in the gazebo.  It is just a perfect weather night.  Warm with a  gentle breeze.  We take a seat in the benches and sit back ready to listen to the tunes.   The music ends, and “praise the lord’ is heard, ‘alleluia’… wide eyes, we look at each other.  Then one of the singers gets up and tells is life story…. truly.  awful.  childhood.  He told a lot of gory details.  We are shell shocked.  We had come to have a pleasant evening with lively entertainment and stumbled into a confessional of sorts.  We all felt just awful for the guy but it was too heavy for our tastes.  We silently wished him all the best as we ducked out as politely as we could… 

Wanting to lighten up the mood, we headed to the Atlantic Harbor Yacht Club over looking the harbor and New York in the distance.   We of course meet a fellow sailor, beings this is a yacht club and  he gives us suggestions for the journey tomorrow.  Refreshed, we head back to the boat and catch some sleep.

Aug 23 - 24  Over night passage / Atlantic 

We are up and gone by 6am Sunday morning.  We greet the sun as she pushes her way above the horizon.  We are officially off into the Atlantic.  Salty seas ahead.  We round Sandy Hook, and it is… sandy and a hook of land.  Fishing boats speed by.  A coast guard boat at anchor.  A New York city ferry boat crosses the bow.  We turn the hook and put it behind us.  Course set for Cape May.  160 +/-  miles to the south.  With a good 15 knots of wind, the sails go up for the first time in weeks.  Flippin’ fantastic!  We are doin’ it….  We are ‘sailing’ the Atlantic.  It doesn't take long for a salt crust to form on the bow.   Going to have to make a concerted effort to keep it top side.  We continue clipping along, ticking off the miles. Sails trimmed and pulling beautifully.  Then to ice the cake, an honest to goodness sea turtle… just off the port side.  Pinch me please.  

We continue all day, beam reach switching to wing and wing.  On and on… We are hailed by a ship.  We pass behind.  And on we go.  If there are 3 happier sailors today… I don't know where or why…

As night begins to fall, we decide on shifts.  I will do 9 -12, Jan 12 - 3, Jim 3 till 6am…

Wind down to 2.5 knots.   Jim and I take the sails down just after sunset… which is getting earlier and earlier every night.  It is dark by 8pm… Jim heads to bed, Jan is sleeping as well.  My watch.  Just me and the moon.  Well, half of it.  A few clouds.  Stars horizon to horizon.  We are about 25 miles off shore.  Between shipping lanes.  The seas are undulating, breathing slowly up and down.  Every now and again, a sigh, from the depths of the sea and we get a nice swell to shift things around a bit.  A couple of commercial fishing boats off to the west.  Shore lights visible every so often.  A halo around the moon.  Jan relieves my shift about 12 thirty.  I think I could continue for several more hours but sun up, we’ll make land fall, so a bit of shuteye is in store.  Jan and Jim’s shifts are similar.  Peaceful and calm.  I am up to greet the morning just after 6.  We watch the sun crest over the horizon.  Within the hour we will be in the channel and preparing the anchor.  A welcoming committee of dolphins makes a quick pass at the harbor entrance.  The briny air fills our nostrils.  We did it.  We made our first overnight passage of the Atlantic  journey.  

The anchor set, eat a huge, too big of a breakfast.  Our tummies stuffed we crawl back in our bunks.  Just a bit more shut eye before exploring the salty shores of Cape May.

Aug 24 

Cape May, NJ

Awake from our nap, we set off for shore in the dinghy.  Jim wanted to find a mechanic to take a look at the outboard, still giving us fits. So we are off to make new friends.  First stop the closest marina.  Great guy staffing the place, he makes some inquiries and we are off to the second possibility.  We inquire there.  No one knows how to help or will suggest anything, except ‘move the dinghy’ so you don't block the fuel  pumps.  OK.  We move the dinghy and Jim goes next door to the marine supplies / repair shop.  ‘maybe tomorrow I can look at it.’   Okay… So, we decide to check out another marina.  Jim pulls the cord. Nothing.  Again… nothing.  The marina guys want us out of there; we have a non functioning motor.  We pull it as best we can out of their way and contemplate a plan.  We consult son Stephen, a diesel marine mechanic based in Florida.   Purchasing a NEW motor seems the most sensible.  So, using our cell phones and wifi we start researching / calling places.   ‘I can get you one in 10 days… We can have one here Thursday.  It’s Monday and we have no way to get to or from the boat without a dinghy.  There is a current that can’t be rowed against.   We head by foot to West Marine in hopes of a better solution even though they have none in stock.   Just as we cross the highway Jim notices a discount marine store.  They don't sell motors but are super helpful and put us in contact with a marina that has motors in stock…. but the receptionists says, ‘ our dealer is off today, we can’t sell motors.’  Jim says, ‘you mean to tell me if I walk through the door, I have money, you wont’t sell the motor that is in stock, at your location (4 miles from us).  She repeats, ‘I can not sell you a motor today…’ End of conversation.   The Discount Marine store clerk, Pete, says ‘What?’   He dials a number and after a quick conversation, says the dealer will be there in a few minutes, they are friends.  Thank you Pete!  So we have to catch a taxi ($20 !!!) to go 4 miles.  We are back on track, and decide on a new / used motor, slightly less power than we had, but it  W O R K S and is a decent price and will retain the warranty.  Anther cab ride and we are back in the dinghy with a new set of problems.  Our full tank of fuel has oil added as needed for the old motor, and we TWO motors now.  The extremely UN-helpful marina we are at pretty much refuses to help.  Won’t take the fuel or dispose of it (it can be used in any gas automobile without any harm) but they all shun us, we have the plague.  The new outboard has a reservoir tank built in so we ask to buy gasoline for the tank… again, we have the plague.  We manage to get some fuel from them to put in the reservoir tank (10 cents worth, no kidding) and we can’t get out of there fast enough.

We regroup back aboard Inishnee still having the old motor to deal with.  We decide we need a diversion and go to town.  We catch the free trolley that gives us a tour of the downtown area.  Dozens and dozens of remodel victorian homes that rent out as well as lots of hotels (50’s ish) remodeled as well.  Lots of gingerbread embellishments and colorful paint jobs.  It looks very quaint but very crowded.  We decide against eating at the Lobster House (meals starting at $25 and up), we are tired of making new friends and sweaty from the days tribulations.  So we return to the boat.  Jan make German pancakes and we called it a night.

Aug 25 

The rains during the night wash some of our salt crest from the boat.  Jim begins in earnest to ‘dispose of’ the motor via phone calls.  The Yacht club, the Yamaha dealer, Pete the helpful Marine sales guy… No one, I repeat, NO ONE will take it.  Then Jan calls out… I have a fish, I have a fish!   They bring it aboard and it is just big enough to keep.  A sea bass.  The fresh filet goes in the fridge for later.  Spirits pick up.  Jim decides enough is enough, He is leaving in the dinghy with it and one of them is NOT returning.  Sure enough, he returns sans motor.  He went to the first marina from yesterday, and gave it to a very surprised and happy boater.  That makes 4 of us!  With heavy clouds over head and feeling like we have had enough of Cape May.  We haul anchor and head for Lewes, DE.  A 15 mile sail across the mouth of the Delaware River.  We say goodbye to our dolphins friends who are catching their lunch off the channel entrance.  The sails go up, the boat heels.  We grab a bite to eat ourselves.  Then, we sail through a pod of dolphins.  Too many to count but at least 50.  Pretty freakin’ cool.  The sun is squeezing out through the clouds.  More sun.  More dolphins.  LOTS more dolphins.  Maybe 50… ?  We pass the first break wall, more dolphins.   A large jelly fish.  A ferry boat to Cape May.  Then around the second break wall.  Anchor down.  Several more jelly fish.  No swimming for us here.    The dinghy is lowered, motor too.  Jan takes a spin, gets it on plane!  (ride on the water not through it).  We  grab a bag and head to the beach on the Atlantic just over the Cape.  A few horseshoe crabs, dead and alive dot the shore.  A bird sanctuary fills the end of the cape, no entry unless you have feathers… or a permit.  We follow the path to the Atlantic.  Several beach goers line the shore, complete with SUV’s and their gear.  We sit and watch the waves, pretty happy.  Then, more dolphins. A good size pod going back and forth along the shore line.  Lots of sea birds.  We enjoy the view for quite a while then our bellies rumble so we head back.  A number of Osprey call this area home.  Fish can be seen being carried via bird talons from sea to perches on  the barge or break wall.  

Dinner tonight, fresh caught,  grilled fish!  Fried potatoes with  onions and cauliflower with mustard cream sauce.  Sunset off the bow, spectacular.  The green flash evading us still.  We finish the night with a game of Cribbage.  Jan wins.  We taught him too well.   A few stars masked by some light clouds.   

Aug 26

No need to wake early.  We need to wait till the tide shifts, about 2 pm, to head up the Delaware Bay into  the Delaware River.  We laze about.  Naps.  Second breakfast.  Watch the ferries come and go.  It is a bit choppy, the winds up a bit from the north.  We eat an early lunch then anchor up.  The current is still strong so we have to motor forward to raise it.  The salt is already showing its effects, some rust here and there, and the anchor chain does not move as easy as it should.   Lubrication on the to do list.

 The course set, we head north up the Delaware Bay.  There is considerable freight traffic.  Barges, ships and tug boats with lines going long aft towing barges for different uses.  I spot a couple of dolphins and one sea turtle.  We are hailed and hail other ships  to clarify passage intentions.  Port.  Starboard.  etc.  The waters are choppy.  The wind and current opposing each other.  As we near our destination a rouge wave breaks over us and the galley gets a thorough soaking,  counters, stove, me and dinner.  So much for keeping salt on the top sides.  A bit of sopping up and all is well.  The anchorage on the chart (Active Captain) mentions there are crab  pots to contend with.  They under estimated… In the dark, there would be no way to miss them, hundreds, many marked with black floats.  Really?  You can’t find something with color that might show up in a dusky sky?

We manage to set the anchor, missing (we think) the ‘pots’.  Dinner severed. squash and chicken wrapped with sage and bacon, white wine and finished with lemon juice. Dessert, Cannoli chips with ricotta icing.  Some Aquavit for a night cap.  The wind has died to a gentle breeze, the stars are popping out.  Our eyes are heavy.  

Aug 27

We are up early, wanting to make it to Essington, PA with a favorable tide.  All eyes on deck to dodge crab pots.  A few crab boats are here to collect their booty.   We navigate out and into the channel.  Still choppy on the water.   Sun is up.  Off to port we see a sailboat… grounded.  Looks forlorn.  High tide will be a while.  We press on.  Past Delaware City and Wilmington then Essington is in sight.  We are getting a mooring ball at the Corinthian Yacht Club.  They'll take our money, but we haven't the right credentials to attend dinner… not to mention the proper attire.  We are only 15 or so miles from Philadelphia, Pa.  Jan we leave us Saturday to fly back to reality… his skills and companionship will be greatly missed.  We showered in the basement of the Yacht Club then head to ‘town’ to see what it has to offer.  Post office, good.  We mail a package off.  Pub… better!  We grab a beverage and a snack.  Crab cakes.  They do know how to do seafood out here.  The owner of the pub welcomes us personally.  Thanks us for choosing his place.  We get info about Uber, trains and buses.  Tomorrow we will head to Philly as see the sites.  

We head next door to the Boat Club.  Same view.  Regular people and food without a membership.  We did have to disclose we are members of our (former) hometown Yacht Club… No credentials required.  No letters of recommendation.  Grab a seat, order a beverage.  ‘Welcome to town.’  More our style.  We have a brewski then back to the boat.  Dinner aboard again.  I love to cook!  We have Artichoke, parmesan chicken, garlic mash and monacan carrots.  We finish the night watching / listening the planes fly over.  We are in a flight path for Philadelphia Airport.  The moon is nearly full.  So are out bellies.  We call it a night.  

Aug 28

Philadelphia 

The night passed fairly uneventful.  A few jostlings from ships passing through.   Today is Jan’s last full day with us.  He leaves tomorrow for home, Germany via trains and planes.  We call for an Uber and get a ride to downtown Philly.  30 mins - $24.  We head to the visitors center for information and tickets (timed but free) to see Liberty Hall. On the way we stop to see the “Bell” and continue on to Liberty Hall.  The tour is worth the time.  We get to see the rooms and artifacts from the signing of the Declaration of Independence and The Constitution.  We continue on our own walking around following the guide map.  The original ‘West Wing’, Military Museum, Carpenters Hall.  Several statues.   Then we head to Penn’s Landing.  The waterfront is quite pleasant.  We tour the Independence Seaport Museum, A submarine and an old Navy ship that could travel by engine or sail power.  It’s interior is more like a cruise ship  than the ‘modern’ navy ships we have toured.  There is woodwork everywhere.  Real furniture, Wooden doors and embellishments.  Next we head to Elereth’s Alley.  Is is one on the oldest neighborhoods in the city and the east coast.  A national Historic Landmark.  Quaint row houses built side by side.  The occupant /  owners wanted a back yard so they opted to have no passage between homes allowing for  the space in the back.  They are decorated as they would have been (?) in the 1700’s, at least the facade from the cobblestone street in the front.

The afternoon waining, we make a plan to head to the boat via subway and train.  Then discover our ‘pass’ does not cover the train, so we will take the bus connection instead.  The bus takes us all over through neighborhoods, industrial parks and airport venues.  It is nearly 1 and a half hours to go the 15 miles.  Back aboard, we celebrate Jan’s last dinner aboard with grilled steaks.  A few toasts to our travels and friendship.  He has really been great company and crew.  Sitting the cockpit after dinner, the evening plane traffic is in full swing.  We are in the flight path and they fly nearly directly over us.  The airport is only a few miles away.  We can see their lights reflecting in the cockpit. All around us, music from the hotel bar, laughter from the ‘Boat Club’, pretty lights from the Yacht Club, horns from a train.  Wakes from other  boats.  Another pretty decent night.    

Aug 29  Saturday

We took our time getting up today.  Only one pressing thing on the agenda.  We  need to head to Philly by early afternoon, Jan must return to his other life today (sad face).  Jim made french toast for breakfast.  Jan organized his gear for the journey ahead.  We showered at the Yacht Club.  We take the dinghy back and forth, the new motor is working great!  Because the tides here are quite high, 7 feet, we have to ‘beach’ the dinghy every trip on the floating dock.  If we leave it in the water, two things can happen.  1: the wave action could beat it up pretty good.  2: It would be nearly aground at low tide.

We head to the city around noon.  Uber.  We get to the train station with about 35 minutes to spare. Jan will take a train from here to New York to catch his flight.  Jan’s train is on time, several others on delay.  We bit him farewell, safe travels and good luck.  He starts his new job Tuesday.  

Jim and I decide to see a few more historical sites.  Benjamin Franklin's grave site at Christ Church burial grounds.  Betsy Ross’ home and burial plot.  Then we head to Reading Terminal Market.  It is an amazing collection of great ethnic restaurants, markets: fish, meat, and produce, household items and gifts.  All under one roof.  We order a real Philly Cheese Steak, a lot like an Italian beef.  Quite tasty.  We decide to call it a day and head home, Uber style.  A lady driver this time.  We get dropped off at the West End Boat Club next to the Yacht Club we are staying at.  This place is hoppin’.  Earlier today they had a Catfish Tournament.  Nearly every seat is taken.  We find a table in a corner on the deck outside.  A couple beverages and some coconut shrimp as we watch a couple’s photo shoot for their wedding next door.  Looks like our boat will be in a few pictures as a back drop.  When we see the bride and groom head in for their festivities we take our cue and head to the boat.  The planes are gearing up for their evening passover.  We hear from Jan, he was the last to board the plane but he is safely on his way.

Aug 30
After waking we did a few boat chores in preparation for the next leg, the Chesapeake Bay.  We had a chat with Jan via Skype, he had a heck a of a trip home.  He transferred to a subway in New York after the Amtrak train ride, but someone jumped on the subway track and... it didn't end well for them.  So Jan was late getting to the airport, then had to persuade the airline his back pack didn't need special handling (read packaging material $$ )... which made him the LAST person on the plane... but he is home and ready for a nap after over 24 hours of travel.
After getting our things in order we headed off to get showers and then for groceries, it will be a couple days before we can get fresh goodies.  I met Debbie while at the Yacht Club.  She hooked us up with Julie who gave us a ride to the grocery store.  Hooray!  We Uber'ed home, too many things to carry.  Then I did a huge, HUGE !!! blunder on my part.    The fridge door slipped from my hand (top loading) and ... broke the wooden / tile door / hinge  ... Jim got out the epoxy, duct tape and tension straps... please work!!!!   I stowed the rest of the groceries.  The epoxy needed to set up so... we are off the the West End Boat Club next door.  We were welcomed by Bill, the Club President.  It is  deffinatly our kind of place.  Working class, fun loving, happy people (the drinks are priced well too).  The internet is the fastest we have had in our 2 1/2 months traveling.   I am  planning dinner aboard, but if I have another gin we'll be eating here... there are worse things.

PS.... the door fix worked!