Oct 7 - 8 Wednesday / Thursday
Manteo, Roanoke Island, the Outer Banks NC.
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| Elizabeth II |
We had an uneventful ride from Coinjock to Manteo. Although it was sunny it was pretty chilly. Only mid 60’s by mid day. Long pants, hats, gloves. The winds were pretty brisk clipping along at 20+ knots. We traversed the Virginia Cut (canal) to Albermarle Sound were we were able to sail a short while. The canal part of the trip was pretty secluded. Mostly swampland but lovely.
We took a hard left in the Sound and headed for the Outer Banks, Roanoke Island. Our 2 day stay included hot showers at the marina, lunch at a Full Moon Brewery and watching the Cubs WIN the Wildcard spot at Poor Richard’s: food, drinks and entertainment… trivia contest included. We toured Festival Park and learned a bit about the Lost Colony. More than 400 years ago 117 men, women and children sailed from Plymouth England to establish a settlement on Roanoke Island. They vanished just 2 years later, leaving only one word carved in a tree, ‘Croatoan’. ??? To this day it is unknown what happened to them.
The Park area includes a mock up of an Indian Village, the Settlement Village site and a reproduction of the Elizabeth II, a 16th century sailing vessel. Volunteers ‘work’ the ship and settlement area, dressed in period clothing and allow visitors to handle and experience different aspects of life from this time period.
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| blacksmith |
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| hand and foot plane |
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| Diane with hand made fishnet needles |
Oct 9 more ICW …. friday
We pushed off the Manteo dock just after 9 am. We had to back track to get to the Albemarle Sound then on to Alligator River were the depths in the ICW were sufficient for our 6 foot keel. We are going to miss the Annapolis Strictly Sail Boat Show, I’m pretty bummed. It is one of the things I have dreamed of attending or years, it is kind of like the pilgrimage to Mecca to me, you have to go at least once in your life time. All things cool, neat, and sailboating related are there to see, buy and dream about. We are just too far away to make the trip, even by car.
More crab pots en route today. North Carolina has no laws regulating where crabbers can / cannot put their pots… most states regulate them, they must be out of marked channels… Pretty frustrating for transients to always be on the lookout for floats. Then there are the dead heads (tree trunks, not Grateful Dead fans) in the narrow areas, usually near shore but a few pop up in and around the channel, just to keep things interesting .
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| crab boat with crab pots |
Sunny and much warmer today we had a 7 hour passage mostly in the narrow ICW ditch and shallow waters of the Alligator River - Pungo Canal. We anchored just off the entrance to the Alligator River / Pungo Canal. There were 3 other boats sharing the space. Plenty of room. It’s a wide part of the river. Low land, pine trees and beautiful grasses with fronds like ostrich feathers. Very peaceful and dark. Lots of stars. Absolutely no ‘net’ services of any kind. No way to find out if the Cubs won or lost. ( update: they lost)
Oct 10 saturday
On to Belhaven NC. The transit down the canal was scenic with lots of pines and swamps which gave way to higher ground, 3 feet or so above sea level and still more pines and snippets of sandy shores. The boat traffic has been increasing as we continue south, the seasons are catching up with us and we are all migrating to warmer weather in search of sun.
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| ICW |
Belhaven is a lovely little community on the Pungo River. Beautiful old 2 story homes, well kept. The River Forest Marina we have chosen for our next few nights stay is quite a find. They offer free laundry (6 new machines, 3 wash / 3 dry), fuel pumped at your slip, good internet and free golf carts to use for shopping, restaurants, etc…
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| transportation |
We met fellow cruisers: Cindy and Jim aboard S/v Splash and Jean and Frank aboard S/v Talisman. They met a while back and have been traveling together. Cindy and Jim (Canadians) plan to head off shore to the BVI’s about the same time as we will… We have vague plans to make the 1,500 mile passage about the same time. We all had happy hour together then Jim and I headed to town to catch game 2 of the playoffs… Jacks Neck bar and restaurant fit the bill. Big screen Tv’s and great pizza. The Cubs Won….
Oct 11 sunday
Jim has been playing with the SSB radio for days now. We can hear a number of voices on different channels / frequencies but we have not had anyone reply to our request for a radio check; can you hear us?… until this morning! Chris Parker heard Jim’s transmission call and said he could here us loud and clear. He broadcasts from the Florida Keys. Whew. Now we know we can be heard as well as receive information about weather, news etc…
Next up, we purchased tickets ‘home’ for family business and visits, the first 2 weeks of December. Minneapolis, Chicago and Michigan. December. DECEMBER. Snow. Cold. I have often said, I was meant to vacation in the snow, not to live in it, so… I have to eat my words.
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| cotton field |
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| Jim and Cindy |
On to our chores for the day. Groceries via golf cart. How fun, I feel so ‘cruise’y. We make a detour and discovered we really are in the south… there is real cotton growing in the field by the store, in bloom. Pretty cool for a northern MI girl where we grow pine trees and mosquitoes. Returning we got on with the remaining chores. I made Artha’s Pecan Pie, Jim hosed the salt off the boat, we did some laundry and Jim installed the hardware on the mast for the 3rd reef point. This will allow us to shorten (reef) the sail, which makes it smaller, for heavy winds; safer and more comfortable.
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| Transporting dinner |
Cindy and Jim are celebrating Canada’s Thanksgiving tonight and we have been included along with Jean and Frank. Cindy made really juicy turkey tenderloins wrapped in bacon, salad, beets, and stuffing… It was wonderful! Jean’s mashed potatoes completed the ensemble. We dined on the deck in shorts; pants and sleeves, while the sun set over the river. Feeling the chill, we finished the evening aboard Inishnee with pecan pie and ‘Not Your Grandpa’s Rootbeer’ (you should give it a try). Everything was going just fine; good food, great company when Jean and Frank shared a very disturbing story. A few days ago, Frank had hoisted their anchor to get underway and used a bucket of water to wash the mud off the chain. They were making good time motoring down the river, enjoying the day when Frank noticed a stowaway in the cockpit, on the seat, near the companion way… A #@*&^+= snake! OMG !!!! A SNAKE. ON A BOAT! OMG…Jean was of course in disbelief, who wouldn’t be???? The boat and driver made a few erratic swerves while the crew tried to get the dang thing out. They tried using a bucket of water to wash it down the drain, but it kept swimming back up the scuppers. Frank managed to grab it with BBQ tongs and toss it out but in the commotion it landed on the deck… The tongs having ‘subdued’ the snake in the last encounter, Frank was able to finally get it off the boat… If this ever happens to us… Jim will be in such trouble… He will be instantly deaf, followed by having to single hand the boat, rid it of the dreadful creature… while having the added burden of me clamped upon his shoulders…. Frank and Jean are not sure how it got on board… Maybe scooped up with the bucket of water, maybe swam up the cockpit drain… ? I hope I don't have dreams about this!
Completely placated, we parted ways just before midnight… boaters midnight of course. They are off to other adventures tomorrow as are we, going in different directions for now.
Oct 12 monday
Oriental NC
Our travels today took us out the Pungo River crossing the Pamlico River entrance continuing south past Goose Creek and through another land cut then out the sound to Oriental. Although it was chilly the sun poked out just a bit to remind us it was still on duty in some parts.
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| growing a mustache |
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| Mark checking the rigging |
We are seeing quite a few boat with their ever increasing mustaches as we continue southward. The waters of the Intercostal Waterway for the last hundred or so miles has taken on black tea / dark coffee coloring. The color is due to the mostly cypress and juniper trees who’s roots and decaying vegetation release tannic acid. The tannins stain the water and in tern stain the bows of the boats giving them their trade mark rusty colored mustache. The loopers were easy to spot while in the waters of Michigan and Canada and then again throughout the Erie Canal. Looper’s being those who circumnavigate the East Coast, Great Lakes, Mississippi River, continuing through the Gulf of Mexico and around Florida to the East Coast, usually counter clock wise. The starting point being where ever your home port is. Our mustache is barely stubble, our slow speed through the water being so slow compared to the power boats, our bow wave is generally low and small.
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| consultation |
We followed the channel closely as always, skirting it would mean a stern grounding. 6 1/2 hours and Oriental was ahead and to starboard. We were able to score a spot at the FREE dock. 48 hour limit every 30 days. The dockage in the area is generally $1.25 - 2.00 a foot per night so free is great on the cruising kitty. We tied up adjacent to one of several huge shrimp boats that call this home port. They are out for days at a time. Being so close to the ‘catch’ we get all the free smells we want while on deck. The little village has a lot to offer. Several restaurants, a good marina chandlery, and a marine consignment garage. All things we will sample while here.
Our boat buddies from home are joining us Friday for a week or so aboard. It will be good to see Sue and Jake after nearly 5 months. An added bonus they are bringing our mail and some stuff we ordered for the upcoming voyage to the BVI’s. We touch base with them about timing, meeting place, etc. then we head off for game 3 of the playoffs, Cubs vs St. Louis Cardinals. The cubs win the game 8 - 6 …. one more and they go on to the Championship games, the winners them face-off in the World Series.
Oct 13 tuesday
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| cool stealth boats in the harbor... |
We are up with the shrimp boats as they return to port this morning. Smoke pouring from their heavily worked diesels. Their bow and stern thrusters assigning them to the dock. We make a list off ‘to do’s’ for the day. Order charts for the Caribbean, See what kind of goodies are at the consignment store and catch the next Cubs game. We also call an old friend who resides and works in Oriental. Mark was one of 4 crew that crossed the Atlantic with Jim, Captain Larry and Jon (keep your hands off the off German girl) in 2004. I was able to join the crew in the Azores for the final leg of the trip to Portugal. S/v Blue Star carried us all safely through challenging weather and momentous times. For Jim and I, it was life changing. The trip officially set us in motion for our current lifestyle. Capt. Larry opened an unknown world to all of us and we are forever grateful. Plus, we have someone to blame when things don't go as planned!
Mark is now a professional rigger with his own company based out of Oriental. We meet up with Mark at the chandlery and briefly catch up. He is quite busy with his business as well as boat deliveries.
We find some good bargains on used equipment at the consignment store. By the time we return it is time to watch the Cubs win the playoff game! 6 - 4… What a nail biter. We had the bar cheering along with us as the afternoon slipped into evening.
Oct 14 wednesday
It was a slow morning for me, not feeling on top of my game. Jim meanwhile polished the stainless on the top sides. The salt water turns it rusty in no time. We hired Mark to come back today to inspect the rigging. Mark, Vic (marks father) and Jeremy (Marks assistant) came by just after noon. He was up and down the mast, checking the stays and shrouds (cables that hold the mask upright) as well as all the fitting on deck and lines that run the sails. He gave us a clean bill of health and said the rig was ready for off shore sailing. Mark was then off to other jobs and meetings.
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| Melinda and Harry |
We had to vacate the free dock, our 48 hours nearly up. We shoved off as another boat circled the channel, thrilled at there luck of a place at the free dock for the night. There are 2 free docks here but one of them is off limits while the town has a barge and crew coming tonight to make a few repairs. We anchored just outside the harbor along with a few other boats. Just as we were getting settled in for the afternoon, Harry and Melinda Schell from S/v Sea Schell dinghy’d over to say hello. What a find they were. They have been ‘cruising’ for years having left after their last child graduated from college. They were going ‘out’ for one year… but it has turned into 13. They were a wealth of information especially about SSB radios and protocol. We picked their brains for a good hour. They are wintering this year in the Bahamas but have been all over the Caribbean, Central and South America aboard their boat, a Tayana cutter. They headed for Sea Schell as we tried to digest all the great info. I got dinner going as the sun was making its way to the horizon when Jim and Cindy (S/v Splash) came by after their trip to town. Our discussions continued on through dinner and well after dark. They are a really enjoyable couple and we share mutual interests including Rye and Water, red and white wine, and Connemara, making for easy conversations. We have plans to get together again soon in hopes of firming up travel plans to the BVI’s.
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| Slaite' |
Oct 15 thursday
Working from the information from Harry yesterday, Jim found several of the ‘nets’ and was able to follow the conversations quite well. The nets are organized radio broadcasts lead by an individual representing a group to provide information at a given time. Some nets are strictly weather related, others are quite social: who is where and what gathering (happy hour or shore party) is taking place today etc.
We upped the anchor soon after the morning nets and headed for a marina where we will stay for a few days, friends Jake and Sue (yeah!) are on their way to visit so we wanted a convenient place to meet up. We had made reservations for at least 3 days, the weekend, because Oriental has a Front Porch Music Festival this weekend and slips fill up for these events. We headed to the chosen location but were unable to find the marina. Circling the harbor, repeated calls to the harbor master we were still confused. The harbor master, Ashley, said he could see us circling… ??? We did an about face to see Ashley on a dock waving us over… still confused we headed his way with him on the line. It turns out the marina we called owns 2 marinas (different names) and they send their transients to this marina they just neglected to tell us their policy… It is waaaaay away from town, no way to realistically walk to town… the concern was evident on my face. Ashley says ‘no problem, we have curtesy car; free. Okay. However, due to the Music Festival we are docked as far from the mainland / facilities as we could possibly be placed and still be tied to the pier. Our bow literally is several feet past the end of the pier. The marina has numerous boats heading here for the festival. We at least have a spot and glad we made reservations days in advance.
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| We are in shrimp country now |
So now the task of once again cleaning the salt and crud from the boat, in and out. Today I tackle outside. It is a lovely afternoon, nearly 80’ and perfect for scrubbing the canvas (mildew form soooo much rain) and then the cushions and cockpit. Jim takes care of paperwork below. A few hours later we are ready for a break. We hit the showers and clean up. The facility here is top notch. Clean, well equipped and mostly everything is new. They have a nice selection of take one / leave one books in the lobby… I sit on the floor perusing the selection when a the biggest cockroach I have ever seen scurries out from under the book shelf and past me. Aaaahh goes up the call and Jim comes running. Even he agrees IT. IS. HUGE. books strewn about on the floor, I do my best to return them to the shelf with la coocaracha staring at me his antennas twitching from the corner… I back off and it charges me… I arm myself with the biggest, heaviest book I could find and … splaaat… he is no longer. Jim to the rescue again, disposed of the remains. The dilemma, I want 2 of the books…
We are then off to town via ‘courtesy car’ to pick up charts and guide books for the Caribbean we had ordered earlier this week and a few hardware do dads including roach spray. Back aboard I put the book selection in a ziplock and give it a shot of bug juice. They will stay contained in their debugging bag till tomorrow. Should be sufficient to rid them of critters as well as any eggs that might have been deposited. We’ll have to read them with rubber gloves I guess. We then get on with relaxing and happy hour before dinner. The sun sets shortly after and and we hit the books (previously acquired) for bit before officially calling it a day.
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