Norfolk and the ICW

Sept 26   /   Norfolk VA   Saturday

Stephen 

We spent some time today doing laundry and organizing a few things for Stephens arrival today.    The weather was on and off rain so we didn't venture into downtown other than to hit Starbucks and use their internet services and a quick stop at a book store.  The tides here engulf part of the dock / pier at high tide so we have to use a ramp bridge during those times to get to shore.  There are hotels, parking garages and a few shops on the Norfolk side, the opposite side of Craford Bay / Elizabeth River is Portsmouth, Va.  A bit down river is the Norfolk Naval  Shipyard where numerous navel vessels are being readied for duty, refurbished or decommissioned.  There is quite a bit if barge traffic here working on the bridge / tunnel or assisting the many ships in or out of the Bay.  

We caught an Uber to the airport to meet Stephen for his arrival then returned with him and his rental car.  We spent the night catching up, eating dinner and enjoying each others company well past boaters midnight.    

Sept 27   Sunday

Adventure Park at the Aquarium 

Today we decided to head to Virginia Beach, VA to check out the Virginia Aquarium and Science Center.  Nearly every exhibit was designed to be interactive.  Lots of displays to test your knowledge about sea life, earth’s history and aquatic plants and eco systems.  Even before entering the building several seals captured our attention from the outdoor viewing aquarium .  The indoor aquariums did not disappoint either.  The layout design keeps the participant weaving about the exhibits.  Turtles, sharks, and colorful fish.  There is a laboratory to view their coral nursery.  Patrons could ‘pet’ sting rays and horseshoe crabs if desired.  Throughout the multi acre complex student (HS / College) volunteers were available to answer questions pertaining to the exhibits and wildlife.  The main exhibit houses the aquariums.  The middle section is an outdoor experience along a creek with areas to rest or inspect the marsh.  Continuing on, the sea otters and snakes are found at the far end of the woodland walk.  For an additional fee, the center offers an enormous adventure park, a ‘ropes’ course on steroids.  The sessions are sold in 3 hour blocks and the course has varying degrees of difficulty.  Participants wear safety  harnesses with tethers while climbing up and about the obstacle course within the trees. Physical and often mental abilities are challenged.  This course included zip lines as well.  There were several acres of challenges, tight wires and suspended log bridges to cross, netting and walls to scale.  It was quit impressive and there were a lot adventure seekers enjoying the challenges.  

Aircraft Carriers / jet

We continued on to Virginia Beach downtown for lunch then a walk to the Atlantic sea shore.  The wind was fierce cutting through the breaks in the high-rise hotels that line the beach area.  Jim lost his go-to-town hat and had to set off at a run to catch it before it was devoured by traffic.  

Next we set off to find a few boat items before returning home.  West Marine always has something a boater needs.  

Dry dock repairs / shrink wrap around radar equipment

Virginia Beach

Stephen and I wrestled the laundered covers back on the cockpit chairs.  No easy task.  Sitting in the cockpit later we watched the super moon rising in the east, 

clouds threatening to swallow it up, on and off as the moon continued on it’s path.  The luck of the Irish was good tonight, we were able to watch the first half of the eclipse of the moon, then just after the earths shadow stole it from sight, the clouds moved in and refused to give it up.  We called it a night.

Birthday boy ...

Sept 28  /  Jim’s birthday !  Monday

We ran a few errands then drove to Atlantic Yacht Basin, our next stop with the boat.  We chose this stop for several reasons.  It is close to Stephen’s classes this week, it is the start of the Intercostal waterway; our route continuing south, and we can get some more work / prep done before heading off shore next month in search of tiki bars, coconut islands and warm waters.  We dropped the rental car at the the Yacht Yard and returned to the boat via Uber.  We then got underway and backtracked a bit to show Stephen the navy vessels at the Bay entrance.  

movable floating gates in front of Naval ships

The rain spit at us a few times but nothing more than a few drops.  Returning to Norfolk and on to Chesapeake, VA and the yacht yard, we were ‘signaled’ to beware of, move over for, American Elm (ship), which we did.  Had we known we would get to see his slow aft end for the next 5 miles,  nearly 2 hours… we would have goosed the throttle and beat him into the channel.  Jim tried unsuccessfully to raise the ship and tug captain’s to request a pass but they would not return our hails. So, we continued our game of ‘follow / be followed’ until we had an opportunity to pass, which was successful, but immediately thwarted by the ships destination in which he needed us to ‘move along’ but a darn bridge stood in our way.  The bridge tender was quick to get the cars stopped and we averted disaster by American Elm’s impalement.   A great relief to have the  ship and bridge behind us we continued on toward Chesapeake VA.  Another 5 miles, then the lock for the official Inter Coastal Atlantic Waterway was in sight.  We locked through with 2 powerboats.  Next a bascule bridge and immediately after that, home: Atlantic Yacht Basin.  Tied off we had a toast to Jim’s big day then freshened up for dinner on the town.  After a few practice stops for a decent eatery, we decided on Kelly’s Tavern.  A quiet, river setting, excellent waitress, great food and super company.  Bellies full, we still managed to finish off a ‘birthday brownie Sunday’, compliments of the restaurant.  

A long, mostly enjoyable day of sharing our new way off life with Stephen.  

Light House Ship 

Sept 29  Tuesday

Stephen went off to his Volvo IPS (inboard propulsion systems / marine mechanics) certification workshop and we got to work on boat projects.  It has been pretty steady rain for days now.  The entire area getting waterlogged.  There is talk about the tropical storm in the Caribbean…

Railroad bridge lifting for us to pass under

Jim installed the new water pump for the fridge cooling system and I defrosted the freezer.  Per our scheduled appointment, Chuck from Seaport Electronics arrived in the afternoon to look over our SSB radio. SSB, single side ban, is used for long distance communication via ‘ham’ radio.  We plan to use this for weather reports and communication while making off shore passages, no cell towers in the Atlantic.  Chuck was amazingly helpful, thorough and knowledgable.  He and Jim spent nearly 2 hours tracing wires and inspecting the system.  He left Jim with a to do list and said he’d drop of some wires, fittings, etc we would need after dinner tonight.  Chuck is a very busy man and in high demand.  While on board he received several phone calls; he's flying to New York Wednesday for another job and choose to turn down a job for the U.S. Navy while helping us.  They have used his services in the past for radar work.  He’s not a fan of working on the radar of naval ships; convinced that the Navy pilots who transport workers to the ships try to make their passengers, even those that are their to fix the radar, lose any and all of the lunch they enjoyed prior to their departure. He said the return ‘launch’ from the aircraft carrier was pretty amazing, catapulting the the plane off the ships… We felt in pretty good hands with someone with credentials like that.  

After dinner, we took advantage of Stephen and his rental car to get some of the bulk supplies for our upcoming trip to the Caribbean, planning to be out of the country for up to 6 months.  The cart near capacity we headed home to unload.  Bags stacked on top of each other in the saloon waiting to be stowed, I’ll tackle it tomorrow.  

Lighted barge towing dredging equipment with a second barge at the aft end

Sept 30  Wednesday

So, the tropical storm,now hurricane Joaquin, is building off Bermuda and may head up the east coast.  One prediction has it coming ashore at Norfolk and continuing on through the Chesapeake Bay.  We are south of Norfolk about 12 miles and in land about 25 miles west.  We are in the ICW canal within a mile of the lock.  We should not get any tidal surge, the lock keeping the canal isolated from the river and ocean.   A fairly good place to hold up in a hurricane if needed.  The marina ships store here is well equipped with any supplies we might need.  Jim asked about the availability of oil filters They didn't have any in stock but could order them.  It’s 9am, they be here at 11 today… if you want a 3rd it’ll take longer… 1 pm, today… ok.  we now have our 3 filters on board.  

The day was spent with Jim running new voltage wire to the SSB and installing the antenna wire.   I tackled the job of vacuum packing the purchases from yesterday into smaller portions.  I have some great air tight containers for small quantities that keep moisture and air from penetrating things.   The bulk foods need to be repacked and stowed for use later.  Unfortunately, I had one too many things to vacuum and my seal a meal bit the dust.  Our luck with small appliances has been tested this week.  We electrocuted an old fan, my iPod took a hit of salt water (the rice bag trick didn't work) and now my seal a meal… grrr

We were able to get things back in order (mostly) before Stephen came home.  He carted us off to a Postnet to ship a package ‘home’ (thank you Dave and Rose for the use of the  charts) then to get a few things to make dinner: crab cakes.  

Flooding rains

We had another enjoyable evening with Stephen.  He now calls south east Florida home.  He and his wife both lost their jobs within months of getting married a few years ago… They took it in stride and both decided to further their education.  They have great careers ahead of them in fields they enjoy and are in demand!  We couldn't be more proud of the two of them!  

Oct 1   Thursday

How can it be October already?  It is still in the high 70’s and low 80’s during daylight hours here.  Other than the relentless rain this week, we have had fantastic weather.  Hurricane Joaquin continues to build, causing plenty of jitters around the boat yard.  We are making mental notes for what we need to do if it indeed comes ashore near us:  Sails off. Canvas off.  Extra fenders and dock lines. Insurance paid.  Get inland if there’s a direct hit.   We have been monitoring several different news sources but we have a secret weapon too!  Back in Saugatuck / Grand Rapids one of our dear friends that we left behind just happens to be a retired weatherman from Grand Rapids, Dave Whitford… He has been tracking our progress along our journey and most recently providing emails with links to weather sites.  Pretty cool we have our own personal ‘weather man’ looking out for us.  Thank you Dave.

  

Todays chores… Try to figure out how to use the SSB.  Jim and I both have our ‘ham’ license and so does the boat / radio.  Yes, the boat and radio need to be licensed as well.  Jim has downloaded the codes to program the radio for the stations we will need and use.  Tomorrow at 7 am we hope to hear Chris Parker’s weather broadcast.  He is THE weather guru for SSB radio users along the East Coast and the Caribbean.  For a small fee you can sigh up and get personalized weather forecasting from him.  

How do you get a motorcycle off a Yacht ? by hoist  of course

Since Tuesday morning there has been a steady steam of south bound traffic, mostly huge, HUGE power boats.  Yesterday, one pulled up behind us at the fuel dock.  They filled their boat tanks, jet skis and 2 motorcycles which they had to off load using their on board hoist.  They were so big and wide they had to untie from the dock, turn around in the cannel then return to the fuel dock to fill the tanks on the opposite side of the boat.  I can’t even begin to calculate their fuel costs…  

A dolphin watching boat arrived today as well, the companies wanting to protect their investments as best they can… These captains feel this is the best spot to weather the storm we feel pretty good about being here too.  

The canal is hosting a lot of flotsam from the rising water levels.  Big ole logs bobbing about, one longer than 40 feet, branches here and there and a bit of trash too.  It has been raining for over a week.  Pretty tired of being soggy.

Stephen completed his course successfully, adding to his resume.  Cograts!  We ate aboard not wanting to go out to celebrate in the drenching rains.  A game of rummy for entertainment.

 dinner together 

Oct. 2   Friday

Crisis averted.  Joaquin has headed off shore.  It’s as close as we ever hope to come to a real hurricane!  The rains continued here all day, flooding streets and causing delays.  The weather reports say all this rain is not associated with the hurricane, it’s just a large weather cell dumping loads of water. We had planned to go to the beach or the Outer Banks but with conditions being what they were we opted to stay local.  Having gotten up fairly early, we headed out for a shopping spree.  With access to a car we decided now would be a good time to get our non perishable bulk food items.  We spent over 2 hours topping out 2 grocery carts, estimating what we might need for 5+/-  months while in the Caribbean.  Finding places to stow so many things will be daunting.  Another couple stops and we picked up an Inter-Coastal Waterway Guide, some storage binz and some ‘Neverwet’ for the cockpit chairs and pillows.  It absolutely poured the entire time we were out.  We brought the bags aboard but not wanting to deal with stowing the goods just yet, it will take hours, we had a quick lunch and decided to head to the movies.  The premier of Martian in 3D.  We all thought it was pretty good and mostly believable for a sci-fi type movie. No spoilers here… 

The river flooding into the  parking lot  

For a dinner celebration of Stephen’s training and his last night with us for a while, we went to Pirate’s Cove, a local seafood eatery.  The food was great made even better by the company. The rains let up by the time we finished dinner, now just a drizzle.  Back aboard Stephen helped me program my iPhone with music.   We managed to make it up an hour past boaters midnight but since he has to leave by 4:30am to make his return flight home we turned in for the night. 

Oct 3   Saturday

3:30 am.  We were up to say our goodbyes to Stephen.  More freakin’ goodbyes.  We got a bit more sleep and then on to the day’s agenda.  Stowing the purchases.  I was too consumed with the task to even think about taking a picture of the piles of cans and boxes and stuff.  Bummer, it was pretty amazing.  It nearly filled the saloon seating areas.  Sorting was first, then stowing and rearranging, rearranging and stowing.  It took hours.  By lunch I had put a huge dent in the piles and by early afternoon it was all nice and neat in binz, boxes and drawers.  Unfortunately, I was not as diligent as I was when we first moved aboard with my inventory lists.  Looks like I have something to do tomorrow… 

We had to do a load of laundry because our bath towels were getting smelly and molding with all the wet weather.  Jim had some luck with the SSB after tightening a few connections.  We heard a ship in the Atlantic asking for information about the missing cargo ship off the Bahamas… no word or sightings from them since they sent our their distress call.  We are hoping they make it home safely.

We have numerous emergency devices on board for emergencies.  Getting the SSB working properly is pretty important to us for off shore communication.  We will stay put till at least Tuesday, hoping to get Chuck the radar (SSB radio) guy to come back and help tune it in for clearer reception.   

The weather is expected to continue to slowly better; sunnier and warmer. Looking forward to less water on the boat now that we are completely salt free.  We have been fairing better than our neighbors though.  They are transporting a 95 foot power boat with ‘toys’ to Fort Lauderdale.  Stephen has worked on this type of boat and says they run about 2.5 million… but it leaks like a sieve.  They have had tarps draped on deck and tied down and still getting water in the cabin.  I guess I can deal (for now) with our little drip from the galley hatch, it drips right into the sink!  Knowing were the leak is, is the hardest part of stopping it… we just have to take the time to re-bed the glass… and have dry weather to do it.  

Flooded streets and parking lot

Oct 4  Sunday

It’s a bit drier out today.  People here at the marina are venturing out in between rains.  Jim and I decided we needed to stretch our legs so we walked over to the Great Bridge Monument area commemorating the Battle of the Great Bridge.  Unfortunately we managed to pick up a few hitchhikers.  Sand burrs.  If you have ever had an encounter with them you know what a miserable excuse they are for a life form.  Luckily Jim had some tweezer on his pocket knife and the job of removal was almost pain free.  Then on to Kelly’s Tavern for a beverage and some football.  It needs to be said, so here goes.  Jim and I by association, are Bears fans… but they are having another lousy season… Today however, they somehow managed a win although we couldn’t see any of the plays, all stations tuned to the Washington game for the local fans here.  Taking with the waitress, she told us about the drug bust last night her here in the parking lot.  We heard lots of sirens and flashing lights from the boat about 10 last night.  As the police surrounded the cars and dealers, one of the suspects took off on foot.  Not sure how that worked out for him… it’s a rally small island!  

Having only been at the Tavern an hour and a half, the place was steadily clearing out.  The waitress left to move her car… the river was rising pretty fast and high tide was increasing the flow.  Looking out, we could see the parking lot was under water… the river flowing into it.  Cars were taking their chances and exiting the lot, water half way up the tires.  We decided we’d better head out too.  Outside we saw the entire area was under water.  The parking lot and the access road.  We had to off our shoes and socks and roll up the pants.  We trudged through the water to the main highway, about a quarter of a mile.  Traffic was backed up there as well, the main roads flooding along the river.  We are living the dream!

more flooding...

One of the guys from the boat behind us stopped by. after we returned.  Jamie is helping his good friend Ronnie get Bella Vita to Fort Lauderdale.  They left 2 days ago from Connecticut!  2 fuel stops along the way… 1,600 gallons each time…  He hung out with us aboard Inishnee till 9 when Ronnie called us over for a bite to eat.  He’s a chef and restaurant owner… no way we’re passing this up!  We were introduced to the captain while Ronnie poured us a wine.  Ronnie’s brother owns the boat but is selling it, his new 140 foot boat is being built in Italy.  We got tour; a huge living area with dinning room and wet bar.  A separate gourmet kitchen.  The bridge with lots of electronics and bucket seats for 2, off to port another seating area.  Forward and below, 3 guest cabins with private heads / showers.  The owners suit is below the saloon, with his and hers ensuite heads / showers as well as walk in closets.  The crew quarters; each cabins with private heads are in the stern.  There were plenty of amenities too, jet skis and big screen TV.  The other half seems to be doing pretty well.  Dinner was chicken smothered in fresh vegetables, home made pasta and chewy bread…    dessert: Thin Oreos… new to the market, Ronnie says they are even more scrumptious when dipped in champagne.  I now need to buy champagne… and Thin Oreos!  Full, slightly tipsy, we drug ourselves away from the ‘Good Life’ and back home.  Even with all it’s fancy gadgets and toys… I prefer Inishnee over Bella Vita; honestly.    

crafting ....

Oct 5  Monday

No rain today.  Overcast and windy.  Reports of the lost ship are coming in.  It seems it has sunk.  One body found and some debris… feeling pretty awful for their crew and families.  

Slow getting around this morning, the gloomy skies sapping our motivation.  We did some internet shopping, shipping it to friends Sue and Jake who will be visiting us soon.  Looking forward to some girl time with Sue! … there are a LOT of guys out here boating… tell your single girl friends boating is a great way to meet men… the lifestyle is pretty awesome too.

Swing bridge on the ICW

We had take out pizza for lunch pretty awful… Jim changed the oil and I went to explore the shopping center.  I bought a pair of winter gloves… it will be chilly off shore at night and we are planning a trip home in December… I have said many times, I was meant to vacation in snow, NOT live in it.  So, we will.  Daughter Theresa graduates mid December from University and we’ll be there to congratulate her.   We hope to meet our newest, yet to be born, grand baby!  Hang in there Nicki…you’re a great mom to Miss Nora and the new baby is lucky to have you both.  Son Alex is equally great as a partner and father.  Such great reasons to return to the frozen north.  

gauge for bridge height ...

I worked on my first artsy project of the entire trip this afternoon!  It felt so good to do something creative and fun.  Jim loaned me his specialty knot book and I made my first nautical coaster… It turned our really nice.  I’ll be making more.  Dinner: country ribs and asparagus.   

Oct 6  Tuesday / North Carolina

ICW near CoinJock

ICW ...

After 8 days in Chesapeake, we are finally heading out.  Coinjock, NC, about 40 miles south next destination.  Our neighbors from Bella Vita left ahead of us.  It was cold (66 degrees), windy and cloudy.  Traveling the ICW (inter coastal waterway) Albermarle / Chesapeake Canal means we have to motor and be vigilant while steering; very narrow channel and debris from high water to watch for.  We crossed into North Carolina enroute.  We had to wait out a couple of swing bridge opening times but for the most part the trip was uneventful.  There was a few ‘dismals’ (local terminology for swamp) along the way then the Canal which then opened to the North Landing River then the Coinjock Bay and Coinjock NC.  The marina is pretty spartan with few guests and Crabbie’s Restaurant is closed Mondays and Tuesdays… maybe even tomorrow according to the marina.  Dinner on board tonight.  I put a roast in the pressure cooker with some veggies.  The marina owner, Terry, was very pleasant and willing to assist as needed.

ICW ...

A dismal (swamp)...

swamp

Jim helped another boat coming in as the sun was setting, they were disappointed to find the restaurant was closed.  We had plenty so we invited them over.  It was a very pleasant exchange.  They brought pasta / sauce with pepperoni to accompany our roast and fixin’s.  Michael owns S/v BeClamer, a Catalina 32.  He is heading to his new land base in Punta Gorda FL. from Vermont.  His friends Charlie and George are helping with the first leg of the journey then he will pick up other friends and family for the 2nd and 3rd legs.  Having boating in common, our conversations were mostly nautical, although sports and family were interwoven.  We easily stayed up well past boaters midnight.  They plan to be up and gone around dark-thirty so it’s doubtful I’ll see them off in the morning.  Safe travels!  Just as we were ready to close up the hatches and consider some serious down time, a shout from outside.  Michael came back with a treat.  Butterscotch Krimpets… a Vermont ‘Twinkie’ like cake with a twin in the package that has a butterscotch flavor.  All kinds of childhood memories wrapped up in cellophane for Vermonters.  The dishes done, thank you Jim, our treat awaits.  

Krimpets