U.S. Virgin Islands

U.S.V.I.

one of the MANY ferry boats carrying passengers between islands

Nov 16 - 30

On to the U.S. Virgin Islands…

From Soper’s Hole, Tortola, BVI, we made a quick hop to the next island, St. John: Cruz Bay USVI to check in to the U.S.    7 miles.  We tied to the customs dock and proceed to the entrance.  All on board must be present.  Jim filled out the necessary paperwork while Bob and I were ‘checked’ by security… then sent on our way.  Jim followed shortly after, pretty sure we obtained the correct papers, stamps, etc… 

Next stop, a mooring ball provided (for a fee) by the U.S. National Park Service.  A beautiful bay.  A resort on shore.  St. Thomas on the horizon, twinkling away.  A quick couple of rain squalls.  Dinner.  Quiet time.  Sleep.  

Bud and Bones ...

From St. John’s we made another quick passage to St. Thomas.  Objectives: Bob leaves from here in a couple of days and we need to research options for leaving Inishnee for nearly 3 weeks while we are off island visiting family, etc… We had hoped to reserve a spot at Compass Point Marina but they were full up and don’t know if / when their current slip holders will be leaving… We tried several other marinas with no luck.  Looking around it was evident that most of the anchored boats were in much disrepair although they were home to a number of individuals.  Having anchored in the unprotected bay: security as well and wind break; we decided to proceed to Plan B… Head to Charlotte Amalie the next bay / town over.  

We dropped the hook in the protected, sheltered harbor and went ashore.  Charlotte Amalie is a much bigger town.  Right away we noticed numerous live aboard’s, monohulls.  Less derelict than the last harbor at least.   One of the transient live aboard’s, Krissy, gave us information about the area.  Although crime isn't rampant, take some precautions, use the dinghy cable and lock.  

We choose The Shipwreck for dinner and drinks and INTERNET !!!  As we were about the leave we were introduced to Boner… and his owner (creator) Bud… Quite a pair.  Boner is Bud’s plastic, pieced together ‘dog’… Bud plans to give Boner a Facebook identity and hopes it will go viral… Like Grumpy Cat and Chris P. Bacon… ‘They’ were quite entertaining for the first 10 minutes… the next 20, not so much.  We had to pry ourselves away from the pair… 

celebrating a great trip and a great friendship

Bob headed off today (sort of), Wednesday, splurging on a hotel with a ‘proper’ shower and head for his last couple days of vacation.  He leaves for home and his family Friday morning.  We are so grateful for his help and company the last four weeks.  Good friends are indispensable.  

*he reported back that his first morning home was accompanied by the seasons first several inches of snow… With our trip ‘home’ just around the corner… it seems daunting.  Note to self: it’s vacation… I get to leave the cold and snow after 2 weeks… (repeat to self as needed)

Next up for us, the slip search continues … We made a lot of inquiries but nothing solid yet for either a boat sitter or a slip that won’t break the bank.  

Following one of our leads for a marina, we took the dinghy to Crown Bay Marina to check on availability.  A 20 minute ride, spotting several sea turtles on the way.  As we made our way to the dinghy dock we spotted our friends “Splash”… They had just arrived the day before.  Jim and Cindy along with crew Ted and John left the day before we did from Oriental, NC with plans to meet in Jost Van Dyke… They experienced some very heavy seas and their weather guy suggested they divert to the Dominican Republic, which they did.  They rested up, took care of some personal business and set out again, making a few stops along the way at the Spanish Virgin Islands.  It was terrific to catch up with them and share stories.  We hope to make a few new ones with them over the next few months as we bop along these lovely diverse islands.  

motor fixin'

We are settling in to a slower lifestyle here.  Catching up on boat projects and just enjoying having made it to the ‘Islands”… We’ve made a few jaunts into town and are getting the lay of the land.  It is MUCH busier than the islands of the BVI’s.  More populated.  More traffic.  More stuff.  There are several cruise ships coming to port, each harboring some 5,000 tourists.  Staying for the day then off to another port overnight.  The area where the ships dock is full of stalls to purchase all kinds of trinkets and goodies.  

There is a decent grocery, Pueblos, close to the dinghy dock, a Kmart with ‘free’ wifi where dozens of people hang out trying to get a signal.  FYI: you get what you pay for… We have made a habit of going to The Shipwreck.  Food and drinks are good, the help is friendly and they don't seem to care if we nurse our beverages while we hawk their wifi.  

One of the trips to shore, our nearly new dinghy quit.  Just quit.  No warning.  Just quit!  Pull and pull it would not fire.  The oars were put to work till a passing cruiser in their dinghy gave us a tow.  We then spent the better part of the day trying to diagnose the problem.  Our friends Jim and Cindy were having outboard work done and pointed us to a dealer / mechanic.  Water in the fuel lines the suggested culprit.  During our visit with Jim and Cindy, one of their crew for the passage who was leaving the next day heard about our dilemma about needing a boat sitter and said, ‘I might be able to come back… let me talk to my wife…’  Within a day, John and his wife Sue had booked flights here to be our boat sitters.!!!  We were shocked and overjoyed.  Although we had not know John long, he came HIGHLY recommended, is a sailor and he and his wife are willing to drop everything and take an impromptu vacation.  As Cindy said, it’s a win / win for all of us.  With that problem solved we were in better spirits and headed to the dinghy for the long, hot, row back.  Luck still siding with us, another super kind cruiser towed us home… Thank you Henry!  Back aboard, Jim hauled out the manual for the motor we acquired from son Stephen, a marine technician / mechanic.  Jim got right on it and within a couple hours the motor was disassembled, back together and running… better than before.  It was indeed water in the lines, the heavy weather during the passage probably introduced some sea water into the tank.  Cleaned out and tuned up we were up and running again, although we are considering a new, bigger motor to handle the longer distances we will sometimes need to cross to get from place to place… here’s hoping Santa is in a generous mood for Christmas.  

Safari Taxi

We have ridden the Safari Taxi several times.  Big trucks with their beds converted with African safari type benches, open air.  Very efficient.  Cheap at one buck a ride person, whether you get your own seat or ‘share’ your husbands lap when at (above) capacity.  There are plenty of things to buy along the waterfront when the ‘ships’ come in.  Off days, there is less pressure from ‘barkers’ what the vendors are called here.  The prices are slightly higher than the continental states but reasonable given that everything is shipped in.  

Kathy, Norma and Cindy

We went on a excursion with Jim and Cindy today.  We bought a couple of fresh baked pies from Norma at the farmers market.  Norma is a local retired school teacher, her children living and working in the states, whom she visits as time allows.   We then took the Safari Taxi to the University to check out the Agricultural Fair.  Raymond, a local, was friendly and helpful chatting along the way, he too heading to the fair.  He exemplified what we have come to know as the local demeanor.  Friendly.  Patient.  Helpful.  Quiet, slow conversation.  Directions given in a not quite exact manor… and his hand shake; ‘text book’ for what the guide book calls local.  Gentle, soft, just a hint of closure but coming from the heart.  

Raymond

There were livestock pens housing critters like a 4H fair.  The local power company had an energy exhibit which Jim had to check out.  Switches and wire and lineman tools and of course he shared a few stories with the linemen who were giving demonstrations.

The local power company expo 

 There was plenty of Caribbean fair food: homemade though… salt fish cakes, one like a hush puppies, another like an empanada, pretty good,  salt fish soup: spinach and fish… I won’t be sampling a lot more of that…  Veggie wraps and sweet treats… A number of venders selling fresh, ripe fruits and vegetables.  We’ll be having juicy mango for breakfast and ripe, fried plantain for dinner!  We checked out the beach associated with the University, Brewers Bay.  Clean, quiet.  A free flush toilet facility on shore!!!  We met another boating family and they gave us a few pointers on local shops to save a few bucks on supplies and food purchases.  

Ripe, fresh fruits and veggies

We caught the next Safari back to Shipwreck’s.  This one had a window notice apologizing for an inconvenience of service… they will no longer pick up / drop off at Pueblo’s Grocery… the increased police presents, issuing tickets to drivers with too many passengers… ironic reading while Cindy and I were both perched on our hubbies laps due to seat shortage…  which didn't deter the driver from attempting to pick up another fare at each stop along the way… 

prepping coconuts for oil

Our first day in Charlotte Amalie we were anchored near another boat with a kedge anchor off the stern of the boat as well as being secured to a mooring ball off the bow.  This setup does not allow the boat to swing… Last night there was quite a swell from the open waters causing the boats to rock about all night, except the boat with the kedge… He’s been here a while (note the satellite dish on the stern) and knows this happens enough to use defensive measures… we will have a new anchorage tonight.  

Fish Bay, St John.  We went ashore to run a few errands, internet, grocery, mail… then we and Splash upped anchor and headed out.  First choice, Christmas Bay… polluted with other cruisers.  Next choice, Fish Bay.  NO other cruisers.  Mostly quite.  Small.  Steep mountain slopes surrounding us and several  gazillion dollars properties.  We dropped anchor in just under 15 feet of clear, water, Jim watching the anchor descend and hit the bottom.  

We; Jim, I, Jim and Cindy all took a dip… I didn't actually ‘swim’ but … it’s on the bucket list, near the top…

We had anchor beverages with Jim and Cindy on Splash… sharing more stories.  And swapping farmers market pies, having each only eaten a small portion… they ‘looked’ better than they tasted…

securing to the mooring ball

The anchor had a constant sea swell, rolling us about so on to the next bay.

We then spent 2 days / nights in Hawksnest Bay.  The setting was ideal.  Several sandy beaches, coconut palms providing shade.  Only a few boats in the bay, mostly day trippers.  The mooring balls are owned and operated by the U.S. National Park Service, $15.00 overnight charge.  Swim or dinghy to the raft pay station.  Fill out card, deposit payment.  Enjoy. We did.  

the National Park Service 'pay station'

We saw numerous sea turtles swimming around the bay as well as the ‘ricochet’  birds.  We have no idea yet what they are called but they swoop down for fish, skid just under the surface of the water and pop back up numerous feet later.  Very impressive. 

sharks 

I had Jim toss overboard a few pieces of fruit that were a bit overripe when …. Geez  !  The water burst to life.  The resident fish and sharks had made our boat shadow a temporary home.  Slipping out every now and then… anymore treats?  The sharks are quite unusual looking.  Well, we think they are sharks… not having much experience with salt water critters.  They seem to either have gills and a mouth on the top of their heads or they swim upside down…  We have several hanging around, about 3 feet long.  Although we aren't suppose to feed the wildlife, it’s hard not to let a piece of bread ‘fall’ overboard to watch them come to life.

We spent some time on shore enjoying the beach scene.  We took several dips in the warm water before heading home.  It is one of the few places were we can hear the waves breaking on shore.  A lovely repetitive sound but this anchorage proved to be quite roll'y as well so next up, Leinster Bay. 

Happy Thanksgiving!    Nov. 26.15

Several firsts for us today.  Snorkeling on Thanksgiving. It was bit overcast but we saw numerous fish, although the coral is a bit drab and sparse.  Many areas appear to be dead.  sad.…

Happy Thanksgiving: Cindy, Jim (hers) and Jim (mine)

Then,  prepping for Thanksgiving dinner in a swim suit.  A good trade; swim suit for shovel.  

Not spending the day with family was unfortunate but one of the things we have to accept with our new lives. 

We have been traveling with our friends Jim and Cindy the last week.  They have become great friends and companions.  Tonight we shared a traditional (almost) Thanksgiving meal together.  Turkey (cooked in the pressure cooker), squash, beets, stuffing and my Jim’s soon to be famous Chocolate Mousse.  We played a couple games of euchre, sharing the wins.  The sun far below the horizon, ‘Splash’ headed for home.  

We are leaving Jim and Cindy on their own today (Nov 27) to tuff it out here in the Islands.   We have to head back to Charlotte Amalie to prep the boat for sitters John and Sue and we need to pack for our trip north.  Snow soon in our forecast.  

Nov 27- 30

Local fisherman

We decided to anchor in Brewers Bay, St. Thomas, USVI.  The anchor is next to the airport.  A great location for people needing flights to and from the USVI’s.  John and Sue (boat sitters) fly in Sunday (30 / we fly out Dec 1)… 

We wake daily with turtles and fish(es), pelicans… doing what they do…  a few other boats.  One a bit too close for our comfort…

There is airplane noise but only a few during ‘high’ times bringing more ‘fish’ to their vacations.  

Brewers Bay is mostly quiet.  A short, steep walk up a hill and a few more steps down and we catch the ‘Safari’ to town.  We packed up the laundry and headed for shore.  Caught the Safari to Crown Bay / Nisky Center where I did laundry while Jim when in search of a regulator and a solenoid for the stove which decided to quite working  … Jim’s journey took him to Red Hook a neighboring town to Budget Marine where he found a replacement regulator, no solenoid.  He crossed the street to catch a Safari back but NONE would stop for him… ??? 30 + minutes later, he asked a ‘local’.. 

“do you know the trick to getting a taxi to stop”… 

‘yup’

???,  “ OK, can you tell me?

‘yup…’      ‘they only go in ONE direction around the island… (once you leave Charlotte Amalie) you have to ride the entire route around the island, counter clock wise…’  28 or so miles…

OK… so he crosses back over to the proper taxi side, which by the way is the ‘wrong’ side… they drive on the LEFT side of the road in ALL of the Virgin Islands… and soon catches a Safari… nearly 3 hours after beginning his escapade, he finds me with clean laundry and we head back home… 

Back aboard (fixing our boat AGAIN, this time at least in exotic places… he installs the new regulator… 

doesn't work  !!!

Check the old solenoid (again) doesn't work.  check the gas line… nothing coming through… hmm.  getting somewhere at least, finding what does / doesn't work.  He used the air pump to force air through the line, rechecked the regulator and wha-la!  We have gas  =  fire… but we have to by pass the solenoid ( a safety switch) … because it is bad…   Not another one to be found on the island  … 2 weeks on back order.  

Not the best solution but, we can cook and… so can our awesome boat sitters!  

Sue and John
Professional Boat Sitters 

We organized things for John and Sues arrival and packed for our departure.  It’s really hard to think ‘cold’ when sweat is dripping from your nose and blurring your vision.   

Unfortunately ‘Chris’ told us the forecast was to bring a ‘highly unusual rain event’… we could expect 1 1/2 inches of rain over the next couple days…  Note to self, it’s NOT snow…

It rained most of  Saturday and part of Sunday… twice having to pump the dinghy to keep the pontoons from getting submerged.   

John and Sue’s plane was on time, they caught a cab to the Bay.  Jim met them on shore and dinghy’d them ‘home’.  John, nearly immediately produced his new bushiness cards… he told us he was having them made but we though he was pulling our leg…

John (Sue) Green:  (contact information) 

Professional Boat Sitters… 

Anywhere, Anytime…

One weeks notice!!!  

… We are calling dibs on future 'sitting dates' … 

We spent the afternoon getting acquainted with each other and them with the boat.  I’m sure we overwhelmed them with procedures, it being our home and not just another charter boat…  They made us feel very comfortable leaving out ‘baby’ in quite capable hands.  

John and Sue manage a number of housing units in the Hamilton / Toronto, Canada area. They are use to dealing with ‘issues’ and solving them.  John is also in construct and knows how to ‘fix’ things… Sue was one of Canada’s first women firefighters and is very capable at problem solving and dealing with responsibility as well.  We are confident our home will be well care for.  

The time passed quickly that night and the next day… we had made ‘cheat sheets’  for John and Sue to reference later …  if they plan to ‘use’ the boat…  they need to know how to operate it and the systems as well.  Dinner: crab cakes and fresh fruit / veggie slaw.  John helping in the galley!  He LOVEs to cook… 

The view from Lindburg Bay Hotel and Villas ...

Monday:  Jim decided we should ‘get a room’ at a hotel the night before heading to see family and friends.  Read: unlimited fresh water shower… a big bed…. air conditioning…

I LOVE our boat but … I do miss a few creature comforts… 

showers:  I / we have only had one … 1 … O N E ‘proper’ shower in the last month…. 

So, we booked a room at the Lindberg Bay Hotel and Villa’s… adjacent to the airport. The place was such a treat.  The ceiling so high we couldn't touch it, even of we jumped!  A bed we could both climb in to from our different side… T.V. (all bad news),  good WIFI included !!!! 

I took a shower that probably used more water than all my ‘basin baths' over the last month… combined.  I AM SALT FREE !!! Don't misunderstand… I LOVE our boat… I LOVE our new lives… but … there are a number of things that I used to take for granted that are now a luxury… decadent… 

After indulging in refrigerated air and long showers… we forced ourselves to the bar / restaurant for complimentary drinks… followed by dinner and … more drinks.  The bartender, Jeremy, lives on his boat in a nearby harbor.  He sailed here from France, twice, as well as the return trip to France. 
Then we met Julie… an airline stewardess, based more or less here on St. Thomas.  ‘I’d LOVE to boat sit for you…’   we swapped emails just incase … 

Our tummies full, our heads fuzzy, we made the trek up the steps to our room.  Time: just shy of boater’s midnight.  

Blogging, e' shopping for boat parts, curling up under covers because I set the air too low (78 degrees’)… we are counting our blessings;  again.