St. Lucia 2016

St. Lucia 

March 17 - April  6….

Rodney Bay

The process boat vender

We took a slip at Rodney Bay Marina for 3 days which evolved into 12 … a working vacation.  Rodney Bay is actually a lagoon, an entrance cut though to the lagoon.  Large and protected from the caribbean.   We had not tied to land in over 2 1/2 months!  Luxuries abounded… the marina facility housed several restaurants, toilets and showers and a glistening fresh water pool.   A grocery, sail repair and boutiques.

Margie sells produce at the marina 

Almost immediate upon arrival we were queried by numerous locals looking for work.   Boat cleaning, hull polishing, wood work, divers …etc.  We hired Friend and Jeremiah to help with striping of paint and varnish on the bright work topsides.  The two men worked from 8 till 4:30, scraping and sanding.… taking only a 30  minute lunch. While they scraped we cleaned we cleaned and ‘fixed’.  With access to endless fresh water the cockpit was throughly scrubbed for the first time in 2 1/2 months.  We applied Semco to the freshly sanded teak as well as the wooden cockpit grating and seating areas.  Semco it a teak sealer, easy to apply, looks great.  It is not an oil or varnish but protects the wood without the labor / upkeep.  Durability?  We shall see….

relaxin'

We worked nearly every morning, lubing, cleaning, fixing… maintenance.  Nearly every afternoon we made for the pool and lounged about.  A great novelly to come and go as we pleased from the boat / dock, NO dinghy butt.  Showers every day!!  

Abby with Michele and Jim

Unfortunately my ‘bug’ was still hanging on after the antibiotics ran out from Martinique so I got to make the acquaintance of one of the doctors in St. Lucia.  A quick once over, she reviewed my last scripts and prescribed a new batch, which having completed seems to have done the job.  

Jim and Michelle of s/v Wind Machine… and Abby were berthing at the marina for the coming month before heading north for hurricane season.  Invited to dinner aboard their vessel, Michele made home made lasagna, de-lish!   They are also the planter of seeds…They have spent nearly 14 years cruising, mainly the Caribbean but also crossing the pond and cruising / touring Europe, their tales most interesting…  One trip took them to Peru for a month… We are seriously considering harvesting their plantings… 

Cindy and Jim...
... lots of Jim's ...

Kathy and Jim

Then, our dear friends Jim and Cindy s/v Splash made their way into the harbor and took a slip as well.  We parted ways over 2 months ago and finally our paths intersected, they are heading north for hurricane season.  We have shared many holidays and celebrations with Jim and Cindy over the months we have known them starting back in North Carolina: Canadian Thanksgiving, U.S. Thanksgiving, Boxing Day, New Years, Jim (Splash) birthday and now Easter.  Many memories within our hulls as the miles went under our keels.  

good advice 

Here, we shared dinners together, happy hours and excretions ashore.  We took the local bus to the city of Castries to explore the local market.  It was a feast for the senses!  Several streets cordoned off to accommodate the ‘big’ Saturday market.  There are hundreds of venders selling fresh fruits and vegetables… one blending into the next, each selling nearly the exact same produce varieties from their 5 x 5 foot spaces.  Some with tables, many with tarps splayed on the street.  The meat market was kept busy with orders for pig, lamb, goat… cow or possibly horse… The fish market consisted mainly of wheelbarrows  of fish varieties… Barracuda, some tuna and wahoo… and LOTS of balahoo; a small fish with a long nose, related (I think) to the flying fish.  I’m told it’s very tasty to eat, seasoned and fried… but also used a bate fish which we would soon discover.  The cruise ships make this a port of call so the usual tourist bobbles and trinkets could be purchased as well.  

Unfortunately, the cruising clock still ticking… we finally had to force ourselves off the dock to continue down island.  We shared one last dinner with each of the crews of Wind Machine and Splash… Summer will hold reunions with both crews ‘up north’ making our parting a bit less painful.  

nice !

Marigo Bay

We sailed on to Marigo Bay, south about 7 miles.  A very snug little bay hidden in the mangroves.  The morning balls VERY close together, a couple of boat managed to bump together, one being WAY to big for the mooring and space…  Capella Marina manages most the the moorings at $30 U.S. a day.  Capella Marina and Resort has a host of amenities… which their marina guest have access to.  We paid for 3 days…  The resort complex is huge.  Restaurants, housing, bars, cafes’ and pools.  The grounds are magnificently cared for and we found ourselves in the lap of luxury… Sitting daily on one of the many day beds near the infinity pool.  Servers tempting us hourly with complimentary treats from the restaurants…  sushi, fruit kabobs, exotic fruit smoothies, coconut water still in the coconut, liter bottles of chilled water… internet to catch up on world affairs.  We extended our stay, because… why not 

Sylvianne

While at the ‘Hurricane Hole’ happy hour one evening we met two young men… they were talking to another imbiber and we noticed they were explaining where they were from… using their hand as a map pointing to just below their pinky finger!   Those of you from Michigan will get it…. We of course had to ask … they are from Holland and G.R.   Here on spring break…(Holland Christian HS boys)… and they are staying in one of the Cappella Resort units… at $1,000 !!!  dollars  a  DAY…. OMG… I guess I know why the resort can afford to ‘give away’ treats to guests on an hourly basis… 

Louscious

our bait boat

While walking the dock we met up with a couple we had met briefly back in Rodney Bay.  Ken and Sylvianne m/y Silken Sea… They mentioned they were going fishing off shore the next morning and would we like to join them… Ummm, maybe.  OK, YES!  They hosted 10 guests aboard their absolutely lovely ship, as well as 2 local fishing guides.  14 people altogether.  

Silken Sea is a Krogen trawler.   Sooooo much room!  and so beautiful!  Built in Taiwan. 

Adrian, Ken, Luscious and Jim
and... the big catch

They picked us all up from our respective boats just after sunrise.  Adrian the local expedition guide directed us into a harbor where we were met by local fishermen to take on fresh bait for fishing.  Balahoo and a sardine like fish.  Next aboard was Louscious  the fisherman… NO easy feat as he and his small wooded pirogue like craft, called the  ‘Black Japanese',  was tied to a pole in the harbor.  *nearly all the taxis: auto and water are named  something artistic and painted with lively colors.  After a few attempts he was able to get aboard, safe and dry.  We then headed offshore where lines were cast overboard while we drifted with the current, bottom fishing.  Within short order a decent size barracuda was on board and stuffed in a bucket.  Lines back down,  breakfast was set out and we all took turns eating and holding rods…. 

H U G E barracuda 

balahoo bait

Sylvianne produced homemade english muffin bread hot from the oven along with bagels, jellies and fresh coffee.  More barracuda were caught… 3 total, each successively smaller.  The morning eased into midday and the lines were set for trolling.  Lunch was served, a pot luck from the guest aboard.  A feast!  As the day wore on, the fish eluded us so we slowly made our way back toward port…  Most everyone had given up on the fishing, but not Louscious … he was dedicated!   A check of the lines and he started reeling.  The line was heavy… a snagged fish pot the suspect (not the first of the day). The boat was brought about and  Louscious continued reeling… nearly ALL the line had been spent. Then, the line took a turn and was under the boat… Fish On !… Reeling, reeling, reeling… The gaff and net were in hand.  Another barracuda on the line.  But… IT.   WAS.  HUGE !!!! 20 + pounds.  Nearly as long as Louscious was tall.  Everyone would be eating barracuda tonight… 

the fishing crew

I can’t say enough about our hosts, Ken and Sylvianne… They were so gracious to extend this amazing adventure to us all.  Their boat is gorgeous and spacious.  Their companionship entertaining.  We thoroughly enjoyed our most unexpected excursion fishing and making new friends aboard their lovely yacht.  

The Pitons and Soufriere

We finally forced ourselves to continue south after a very relaxing stay in Marigo.  The hop down to the Pitons only 10 miles.  The boat boys (men) meet cruisers on approach to the harbor several miles out offering to ‘help you to a mooring ball’.  Knowing they would want a gratuity for the their services we politely declined.  

Soufriere fishing vessels

The Pitons are 2 very high, VERY pointy, volcanic mountains near the southern end of the island, dramatically jutting out from the edge of the sea.  They climb skyward to heights of 2460 (Petit Piton) and 2619 (Gros Piton) sea level to tops.  With next to nothing for shore line and water depths steeply declining immediately off shore, mooring balls are required.  The area is a designated marine park with snorkeling at the base of Petit Piton.    

The Pitons are stunning.  Rugged.  Massive.  Dominating the surrounding mountain side.  

the twin Piton's 

We went ashore to the very exclusive resort, Jalousie Plantation… It encompasses the sparse shoreline between the Pitons where we were moored,  Maybe we could score a deal like Marigo… After inquiring at the reservations desk… for a mere $995 US (lowest rates) a night we could indeed use the facility… but they were booked to near capacity, we would have to switch rooms to stay consecutive nights.  Quite an inconvenience.  Needless to say, we opted to sleep at home…. 

The small bay was rolly, mostly exposed to the caribbean so we backtracked a couple of miles to Soufriere, a small town nestled between mountain ridges.  Again the ‘boat boys’ offered to help with the mooring, again we declined… but the offer of fresh fish…tuna.  Tempting.  Most of the islands have several ‘someones’ who patrol the anchorages and offer fresh fruits and vegetables, bread or their expert services for any number of things… boat cleaning, repair, assistance with tours ashore the usual offerings.  

Petite' Piton

Danny was disappointed to not get our OK to assist with the mooring but returned the next morning as agreed with a nice tuna… he cleaned and filleted it ashore… 70 EC, Eastern Caribbean $$… divide by 3 U.S. … just over 20 bucks.  3 meals from our purchase.  

Carolina our guide

Ashore we again declined offers from the dock boys (late teens / no boats yet) to ‘watch’ our dinghy knowing the port security would look after things.  We hired Earnest to take us to Tet Paul, a small botanical garden atop one of the volcanic peaks between the Pitons.  $60 EC.  The gardens showcased local flowers and vegetation and several organic vegetable terraces.  A few cattle and goats. We walked along the trail with our lovely local guide, Carolina as she paused to point out plants and features of the area.  We stepped out on the overlook of Paradise Valley then ascended the Staircase to Heaven.  The views from the top spectacular.  

anchored between the Pitons,
Gros Piton behind Inishnee

Our return ride took us through the ‘Drive in Volcano’…. A mini Yellowstone, only a few acres, nearly completely vertical.  A huge draw for the cruise ship tourists.  We could smell the sulfur long before we rounded the bend to the volcano… Both sides of the mountain ravine spewed gasses.  The surface rock steaming and discolored.  Hundreds of lobster red tourists coming and going from the hot and hotter mineral springs, a mud bath option if desired.  This trip… a drive-by for us, but we will pass this way heading north next fall….

The town of Soufiere is compact and has an old, slightly rundown charm to it.  I don't imagine life has changed much over the years… Our hometown dentist, Doc Marty, lived here for 2 years in the 70’s serving in the Peace Corp.  We hope to compare stories with him this summer back in Saugatuck.  

Our stay on the island of St. Lucia was lengthy and pleasant.  Each harbor vastly differ from the other.  But, new adventures await so we will cast off the mooring lines at dawn and head south to Bequia and the Grenadines… 

GOOD 

FRIENDS