March 13 - 17
Martinique
another French Island
After making the Martinique we chose the harbor of St. Pierre. The anchorage is deep, really deep unless you can get to within 200 off shore. It was crowded with boats as we idled past the small village. Our friends Jim and Michelle (s/v Wind Machine) ahead of us trying to find a ‘shallow’ spot as well. A call over the vhf from a fellow cruiser said head south bit more near the cave and the beach and there was another shelf stable for anchoring. We were soon there and dropped the hooks. We each needed 2 tried to get a proper hold. Our windless anchor switch in need of repair meant hauling the anchor up manually… not the easiest of tasks in hot hot afternoon sun. With a good hold the second time around Jim was ready for an anchor beverage… I am on the wagon… Having picked up a bug in Dominica I’m not feeling my best. The decision was made to hoist the Q flat but hot check in today. It was late afternoon and the customs if in the next village south, requiring us to launching the dinghy and a hike over a small hill. Tomorrow would be here soon enough. A quite evening watch the last of the beach goes enjoying the sunset and the close of the weekend.
We were up and off by 7 am heading south to Les Anses-D’Arlet near the south end of the island, about 20 miles. We reached in vain for a mooring balls and found 2 suitable ones near the outside of the field. Lunch was prepared and plans discussed. Although the moorings were same the harbor had a nasty swell tossing us about so we decided to retraced our steps a bit (10 miles) and head a bit north near the Capitol City, Bail De Fort De France to the very protected harbor of Les Trios -Ilets (the 3 islands). Jim and Michelle had used this anchorage before and knew it provide a very secure and protected anchorage. The next few days, winds forecasted to be 20 plus. We It was indeed protected and isolated, the only disturbance from and occasional ferry wake. The Jim’s headed to shore to clear customs, which meant a ride on the ferry to the capital. Check in at the marine store via computer, get some signatures from the agent and we are in.
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| runs of the theater |
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| Near Mount Pelee' |
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| The ruins of the prison |
Next up, lunch then Ruum Depaz. A distillery. The French love their local rum nealry as much as their wine… It is sold in boxes with bladder bags for easy transport and storage. We found a few samples to our liking and made our purchases and headed off again. Up to Mount Pelee’. It’s height obscured by the clouds we turned around and head over to the atlantic side of the island. The waves were breaking and it was a lovely site as we crested each ridge then again following the shore line. A few more stops at overlooks then a dash into the grocery to find a few fixing for dinner. As the total was rung and I slide the plastic card Jim bags our purchases. You have heard the saying ‘running around like a chicken with it’s head cut off?…’ Well, our rotisserie chicken planned for dinner had too. As Jim grabbed the prepackaged bag from the checkout counter… it miraculously came to life and flew from the bag… emitting it’s juices across the counter, the floor, the cashier and myself… The chicken it self having landed on the floor next to the very astounded cashier… All eyes on us. … Time to make some new French friends! This at least gave the other shoppers time to run to the rotisserie counter and get extra plastic bags … just in case. The store managed guided us to the restroom to clean ourselves up. Upon our return the cashier had clean off our purchases and was helping to re-bag our goods. A complimentary heavy duty store bag was given and a safe measure. We exit as quickly and quietly as we could under the circumstances… only to be hailed by the cashier chasing us through he parking lot… In the confusion I had not signed the credit card receipt… Back inside, more apologies for the mess we inadvertently made… the attendant seemed somewhat amused and at least smiled at me. Back in the car, a few wring turns at the round about but we manages to finally get back to the harbor. Dinner aboard… A fresh rotisserie chicken and salad.
The next morning, I conceded defeat and we headed to find the doctors office before checking out of the country for tomorrows departure and continued overtures in St. Lucia… It was early so we stopped at the bakery for croissants. The doctors office opens … ‘around’ 8:30 am… We were second in line at 8:20… The waiting room, open air, 3 walls. Birds and dragon flies cruising through on their morning ventures. The room slowing filled. I have made a list of ailments; English to French, hoping the doctor would speak at least some English but not counting on it. Doctor Jean-Jacques Darnault arrived around 8:30. Bonjour! His back pack and honest to goodness doctor bag n tow. He took a few minutes to ‘set up’… His roles include: receptionist, secretary, nurse, billing, custodial/ janitor and of course doctor… He took the first patient as we the rest of us waited. My turn next, sort of… we were welcomed into his office / billing department (a table with files) examination room another patient pleaded for assistance. He welcomed them in while we sat near his desk… They there less patient patient conversed in French and was soon on there way… The doctor, much to our relief, spoke enough english. I felt I were in good hands. He was very patient and thorough. A half hour visit concluded, a bill of $30 euros. “Call me if you need further assistance”… Off to the pharmacy. The pharmasist from the previous day seemed not surprised by my return visit. A broad smile as he took the perspiration… “ I told you” with smile on his face… A bag full of potions and pills, we next needed to head to the city to clear customs, via ferry boat. Jim joined us as he too needed to his exit papers.
The rain began in earnest just before boarding the ferry. 20 minutes dock to dock. A few blocks to the customs / marine store, then the return ferry ride home. The dinghy’s were floating, bailing was required, the rains had poured many gallons into them. A very wet afternoon merged into evening but with drugs pouring though my veins I was on the mend. More sleep than I had had in a week (due to coughing) helped as well.
We're all , Jim, Michelle and Abby, off early on our way to St. Lucia. The winds from the south and east made for sloppy seas. Rain threatening overhead. 7 hours beating into the waves we made St. Lucia. We took a slip, us first time in over 3 months! Hot shores with unlimited fresh water.
Jim and Michelle arrive ahead of us and were happy to help with lines. We made our line adjustments and started the process of restoring order to the boats… our habit to stow items before passages that might become projectiles or get damaged should they leave their ‘at anchor homes’. Michelle returned with a bit of unsettling news. Our mutual friends Dave and Donna whom we met in St. Martin, aboard S/v Enthalpy II had had and accident. Donna had flown home as planned to Forida while Dave single handed their 52 foot Formosa to Florida. A task he had done numerous times. Off the coast of Puerto Rico in 10 + foot seas he was tossed and swept over board. He was harnessed and tethered to the boat. Incredibly! he was to pull himself back aboard! But… another wave took him back overboard and ripped him form his tether / lifejacket… Shore insight, he was able to swim and float and somehow made it after 7 hours in the water! He then crawled to the hotel and was rushed to the hospital… Our last report had hi in stable condition, hospitalize. The boat has been recovered by the Coast Guard! … Our heart felt well wishes go out to them both. An unthinkable situation! 
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