SV Inishnee: Malta... 2018

Malta 2018

Valletta
* Internet photo

Prepped for a 3-4 day passage, 370+ miles, to Malta. We had just cleared the break wall leaving the marina in Kalamata Greece when we discovered one of our radar reflectors was dangly from a spreader… lucky it was dead calm on the water. Jim slipped into the climbing gear and shinnied up the mast, half way to the spreader and plucked it for. We then clipped it to the starboard courtesy halyard and hoisted it back up. It would make the journey fine, no severe weather predicted. We hoisted the sails hoping for a little lift. Within a few hours we were clearing the last point on Greece we would see, however, there were several island clearly in site that were not, I repeat, NOT on the chart plotter. We zoomed in and out on the device trying to make some sense of the mystery islands that were very clearly not a mirage, and since our customary ‘toast’ to the sea gods’ for safe passage was a mere sip of Jameson… we were not intoxicated either. We pulled up another charting program, this one clearly showed the ‘mystery’ islands… Not the most comforting information given the next few days of overnight passages. Jim compared the charts side by side to make sure that there would be no unintended ports of call and felt confident our course would keep us clear of any land masses.

one of hundreds of fishing net floats

It was a long slow slog. We needed to conserve fuel; we have been using more this season than we did in the past, so we sailed. Even at 3 knots we were making slow but steady progress. Then some motor sailing when we just couldn't take the blistering pace of 2 knots… Then, floating along at barely 2 knots and wanting to make the harbor in daylight, we turned the key and motored. Jim had to refuel using the jerry cans on deck to make sure we would run her dry.

Checking the chart plotter, we could see a sea of ships ahead… all doing 0 knots and 10 miles from shore… We consulted several charts to look for errors and could find none. We would later learn that ships use this relatively shallow area, 150 feet depths, like a paddock. Some waiting to enter the small shipping harbor of Malta. Some waiting for a transfer ship to unload / load them while at out their at anchor, and some just waiting for their next orders…

bird on a board

Malta

Malta has been held by many different countries. It’s strategic location; mid way between North Africa and Europe with many protected harbors made it a desirable port.

The current harbor entrance to Malta is IMPRESSIVE… the massive sandstone city walls of Valletta stand proud and encompass one entire peninsula. Several cathedral domes contrasting the the ridged walls and towers of the fortress like compound.

After several confusing phone calls and unintelligible instructions from the harbor master via VHF we were met by the marina tender and escorted to our guest berth. After securing the boat, were given keys to the toilets and showers and instructed to officially check in in the morning. We freshened up and headed out to find some dinner. Mama Mia’s; awesome food and reasonable prices. We paid the bill and headed for the bunks.

We were up and ready for adventure the next morning. Jim did the necessary paper work with the officials and we were free to see the sites. So many sites to see….We decided to do the Hop on Hop off busses since we really liked the experience in Athens. A great option when it’s nearing 90*every day… We did the North tour first. 3 hours round trip, a one way circuit, taking you to several of the outer villages stopping at popular attractions along the way. We hopped off for lunch at a sea side resort… great views, food… not so much. Back on the bus we asked the driver to drop us as near our boat as possible. The driver, a Canadian ex pat ‘Snow Goose’ was happy to assist. The walk was short, 1 km… unless you get a cramp in your foot … then it seems like miles on pins and needles. Kathy hobbled and hopped but made it back a board.

of note...
1. McDonalds is everywhere
2. Make the most of the realestate even
if the building will only be 10 feet wide
3. 38 degrees celsius!

old school
phone and postal mail

Making a beach

We toured the old city, Valletta the next day. It was splendid! Big old buildings. Narrow streets. The main throughways were clothed in colorful monster size banners commemorating the current religious festival. Very regal swaying in the breeze. Religious icons and statues were displayed in public spaces. An unofficial memorial for a female journalist killed in a car bomb a few years ago rested beneath one of the statues. A somber reminder of the times we are living… Another hot hot day. We returned to the boat for a rest, then dinner … unfortunately the foot cramp was back and worsening. Not to be detoured… we ate dinner out but walking was dreadfully slow and painful. But dinner was great, almost worth the pain…The pain was ramping up… Kathy found herself coveting a wheel chair being used by one of the diners. The return walk to the boat was excruciating…

By morning, our last scheduled day in Malta, the foot swollen and throbbing, it was time for a Dr. Fortunately, we were provided a ride by Julie Anne, a cousin of friends from Michigan. Julie Anne had met us for breakfast on the boat and brought pastizzis. One of the many delicious traditional foods of Malta. A flaky pastry wrapped around either ricotta cheese of mushy peas… so, so good! Thank you Julie Anne for treating and Tanya; Julie Annes Saugatuck cousin, for the introduction.

So, Kathy hobbled and hopped, Jim helping as a crutch, made it to Julie Annes car. She recommended we use the private hospital… more money but a shorter wait and better care. Julie Anne zipped up and around the streets like a native… which she is and deposited us at the door of St. James Hospital. We registered and Kathy was given her very own, temporary wheel chair! We were ushered to an ER care room and quickly met with a Dr. She asked many questions and listen patiently … then decided to consult with an orthopedic Dr. because of Kathy history with a back injury and surgery. 2 hours of consultation… both Drs felt it would be best to see a specialist and have an ultra sound.

the next visit was to the orthopedic Dr. who suspected Mortons' Neuroma, a nerve problem with the toes / foot. He recommended an ultra sound.

So, we saw that specialist and had an ultra sound… Not Mortons'… but a blood clot. *if you’re going to get a blood clot, it’s just about the best place… furthest from the heart and lungs. The Dr was very surprised. ‘Super Rare’… He has never seen this and believes it is the first case in Malta… There were whisperings of putting Kathy’s foot images in a medical journal for prosperity…Several Drs even came to the waiting room and asked to see the images (they gave us copies)… kind of funny… Kathy will need medication for the next 7 months; blood thinners’…

heres the cost breakdown for the Dr, tests and medicine…

Er room and Dr (private hospital) = 25 euros

Orthopedic Dr / consolation = 78 euros

Ultra sound / technician / Dr = 185 eros

Medications: boat mortgage! 6 months = 700+ euros

With the diagnosis and the foot feeling better, we did some more touring. We really wanted to see the Hypogeum; subterranean burial chambers dating to 4,000 bc! Unfortunately it was closed because of renovations… We did stop for a break in the old city of Mdina… smaller than Valletta but with similar structures and many churches.

Otters sites of notes and interesting facts…

Malta grows enough produce to meet its needs

Their megalithic temples are over 5,000 years old; ex: Hypogeum