Greece
After Athens
July 2018
We have been plagued by several unfortunate incidents; all needing attention NOW…
Just before leaving Zea Marina, Athens we discover our head was not functioning quite right. We tried several non invasive remedies we had used before with decent success but this time… it need a bit more persuasion. A rebuild of the pump mechanism. A VERY unpleasant task. First, the replacement parts needed to be unearthed from beneath the back bunk… the garage. Part in hand the next step was to flush as much clean water through the system as possible. Then… dissemble the pump, replace the part and reassemble. Not a difficult task or time consuming; Kathy says from the relative comfort of the settee… It is hot though, 90s+, and the now exposed vent from the holding tank slowly expels the unpleasant ode’ de toilet throughout the cabin… penetrating the nostrils and … well. It’s fixed now and Jim has thoroughly scrubbed himself of all but the memory of the event.
The island of Poros just a few hours away. We are cruising in the Ionian Sea… still part of the Mediterranean Sea. The Katabatic Winds blast off the mountains and head south. Cycling every few days; 20 knots sustained, gusting 30s+ knots. The island is very popular with charter boats because it is so close to Athens and an easy ‘sail (motor). We found a relatively shallow spot with few boats … until the fleet began arriving. Jim had to get the Bitch Wings out (again) and encourage the new arrivals to relocate. One of the newbies was quite reluctant… he had used his electronic scope and was certain his boat wasn't dragging… our thoughts, a boats length is NOT enough room. He relocated, again too close to a few other boats… who also have Bitch Wings aboard.
As the sun started to dip toward the horizon the winds picked up and shifted… and we swung 90 degrees. Now we were too close to other boats. So we used the anchor…the windlass very sluggish (???) and choose a better spot in deeper water. The winds built a bit more but our anchor was dug into the sand well… 2000 RMPs in reverse and not movement so we slept well…
We left early the next morning en-route to Porto Kheli. Unfortunately the windlass was gave out and Jim had to hand over hand put the last 30+ feet of chain in… After we were underway and safely through the busy little channel that separates the mainland from the island Jim put on his diagnostic hat and and went to work on the windlass problem. Simple fix… sort of. The battery was not fully charged… There were several options for anchoring in and around the next harbor including a quiet island.. but we opted for the mainland which had a BIG bay, shallow and good holding… This is where the fleet of 22 boats came in to … see Athens etc blog. After much thought, Jim decided we needed a new windlass battery even thought the old one still had some life in it. So, we found a gas station that had one and we were soon in good shape but it was too late to make for the next island anchorage… Good thing! The winds picked up and blew fiercely topping 30 knots regularly. A few boats re-anchored, dragging… we held firm! The winds continued the next day so we stayed put another day. Jim did some more fixin’ on the electrical and replaced the relay switch for the windlass battery. The blow passed and we slept well, then got up early to head out. The battery and windlass doing fine… Jim called Kathy to the bow to see the anchor hanging just below the water line… FULL of mud!
We moved on to Monenvesia… The Greek’s Rock of Gibraltar. The old town / fortress foundation still sits atop the ‘rock’. Nearly impenetrable. Now, just a few walls, remnants of another time. The lower walled city has been rebuilt and does a pretty good tourist trade. Quaint hotels and shops. Eateries and pubs. ALL delivered via back breaking labor. There is a road that connects the ‘rock’ to the mainland… originally there was a drawbridge.
The road continues to the ‘rocks’ city walls where everything is then done on foot… deliveries carried on cart, wheelbarrow for backs… The streets are narrow. A small central courtyard around the church. After exploring we trekked back to the boat, we had left her at anchor just off where the old drawbridge would have been. The water was clean and clear for swimming. And, the good bad news… the water we took on in Athens was bad… not make you sick bad but totally free of any minerals… flat and tasteless. So, we decided to use some up and take showers… cockpit showers. Fresh water and sudsy soap. We had diner out before heading home. The next day would be long so early to bed. The showers were soooo good we decided we would take them daily… using up the ‘bad’ water while making new water with our water maker… Showers every day now… if we want. IF? yes, of course we / I want!
Early to rise… Porto Kayio. A very small village. No stores! The produce is delivered by a traveling truck… one for bread too. Every other day. The winds were expected to pick up for several days… The holding was patchy. We found a decent spot and dropped the anchor. backed down… holding good. Jim dove on the anchor to inspect. It was partly buried. Not ideal. More and more boats came and set their anchors… several dragging but down from us so we weren't too worried.
The winds increased but not our confidence… Kathy found it hard to sleep… a look about around 11pm… boats dragging! They were able to reset and made it through he rest of the night with our further incident. Nearly everyone left the next day. Jim dove on the anchor again to discover we had drug a bit in the overnight blow. The winds were predicted to continue. We decided to hang around another day… So we decided to reset the hook… closer to shore. Done. We were all settled in for the day. Relaxing, a good stiff breeze to keep us cool. Books and beverages. Maybe dinner out. But, the wind shifted… of course and we swung around.
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| the thick lines two are the 3 tracks we made while at anchor the other doted line is our path relocating |
Two in Tandem… We had seen this done yesterday by fellow cruisers and Jim thought it was a fabulous idea (he took off his bitch wings when he saw their technique…) perfect for these conditions. Kathy drove the boat around in circles while Jim prepped the hooks and chain. The anchors went down, one following the other, the wind blasting us at over 20 knots… we let out a good deal of chain and backed down… No movement at 2000 rpm in reverse with the wind directly on the bow… Jim dove on the anchors… both dug in and buried! Yeah…. Anchor beers to celebrate… (we waited till afternoon)…
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| an image of a trip hook to un hook another chain or anchor from your anchor... |
We also used a tried and true method to see if you are dragging anchor… Choose 2 objects on / near shore that don't / wont move… and are in line with each other and you, for points of reference. Now, to monitor our holding status, watch these two spots from the same spot on your boat… they MUST be in the same position relative to each other and you… if they have shifted… you are dragging anchor! Simple and very effective …
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| we lined up the orange ball with the side of the house and made sure it stayed in the same spot when viewed from the boat |
We dined ashore… very expensive and so so meal. But we enjoyed being off the boat and meeting new people.
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| Jim rescuing two swimmers that couldn't return to shore because the winds were too strong... |
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| just another BIG boat... |
The winds were expected to continue yet another day… but Kathy had had enough so she convinced Jim to move on… A LONG day ahead again… we were up and off by 6:30am. The anchors held perfectly and were easily retrieved. The wind was on the nose as we skirted the peninsula and made our way north west toward Kalamata… like the olive!
The sun came up and we rounded the point. A bit of shipping traffic to dodge, then the wind freshened… and was from abeam!!!! sort of. At least enough to hoist a sail.. then unfurl the gib… O M Gosh… we were under sail … in the Mediterranean!
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| WHALES!!!! a bit far for us to identify the species |
The winds built through out the day… exactly opposite the forecast… We made the harbor and the harbor master spoke very good English. He directed us to the slip where we wedged in between to very small fishing boats. The surge from the wind was pushing the swell into the harbor and we were plunging up and down… way too erratic to get on or off the boat. The harbor master sensing Kathy’s distress (big eyes and clenched teeth) he moved us to another slip. Perfectly calm… and dreadfully hot. The security of a marina means little to no wind… We rinsed off with a cockpit shower; we had to wait till morning for the marina ‘water closet’ (WC) keys. A lite dinner. An arrival beverage and then the bunk for some shut eye.
With the arrival of a new day, we made our way to the marina office to officially check in. The receptionist made us feel quite welcome. We were provided with the WC keys. Maps; location of grocery and chandlery shops… usually the first things we visit in each new port. Returning to the boat we got busy with our tasks of boat cleaning, hosing the salt off the decks and freshening up the cockpit. Kathy took inventory and made a shopping list for later in the week. We plan to leave Greece and go on to Malta from here. Several day passage. Jim tackled the latest windlass problem… connecting a new ground wire to the post at the bottom of its motor, when the discovered something awful… the windless flange that holds the motor to the deck it totally rotten! There is NO fixing this.
So. Boating is not all umbrella drinks and sunsets. But, it beats the 9-5….
With nothing to be done about the windlass for now and the next weather window a week away; we will be tourists. We attempted to rent a car several times but were told we needed an International driver license to drive / rent in Greece. We already rented vehicles twice in Greece this last month… but apparently the other places were willing to over look the fine print of the law… Here, like so many other places… its not what you know but who… we asked receptionist of the marina if she knew of a rental place. She made a quick call and our car was delivered to the marina within the hour! We packed a bag, the Greek guide book a fistful of pills (Kathy got a hitch in her back) and we were off.
Like Turkey, Greece is very mountainous. The distance from here to there is not much but you have to do a lot of climbing and descending mountains using dozens of switch backs to get anywhere. We set off for the Cave of Diros, 85 kilometers away… 2.5 hours. Beautiful drive. Lots of olive groves. Scenic vistas. Traffic light.
Arriving at the caves late afternoon; Jim went to get tickets (long line) while Kathy made a quick couple of sandwiches. He returned with our ‘times’ ticket… 3 hours from now. These caves better be worth our return drive in the dark on mountain roads. We ate our sandwiches in the car then headed for the cave entrance and a WC… there Jim was told we would only have a 2 hour wait…
The caves are situated just up from the sea. We wandered around a few minutes the took a seat in the covered outdoor seating area. Within a minute, an official approached and asked to see our tickets (would we have to buy something from the snack shop to sit here?)… He took a look smiled and said to go now… to the cave! So we did. Not sure if someone didn't show up for their allotted time or what but… we were next. We walked into the cave opening to the awaiting boats… The temperature was dramatically cooler and very welcome. Our ‘driver’ instructed us to sit #1 and 2… front seats then a small family behind. The ‘driver’ pushed off and directed us through and around river caves system… using the oar to paddle, push off the walls and ceiling to navigate the channels.
Arriving at the caves late afternoon; Jim went to get tickets (long line) while Kathy made a quick couple of sandwiches. He returned with our ‘times’ ticket… 3 hours from now. These caves better be worth our return drive in the dark on mountain roads. We ate our sandwiches in the car then headed for the cave entrance and a WC… there Jim was told we would only have a 2 hour wait… 
The caves are situated just up from the sea. We wandered around a few minutes the took a seat in the covered outdoor seating area. Within a minute, an official approached and asked to see our tickets (would we have to buy something from the snack shop to sit here?)… He took a look smiled and said to go now… to the cave! So we did. Not sure if someone didn't show up for their allotted time or what but… we were next. We walked into the cave opening to the awaiting boats… The temperature was dramatically cooler and very welcome. Our ‘driver’ instructed us to sit #1 and 2… front seats then a small family behind. The ‘driver’ pushed off and directed us through and around river caves system… using the oar to paddle, push off the walls and ceiling to navigate the channels. 
The Caves of Diros are hundreds of thousands of years old. 14,700 meters are charted so far. Most of the route is completely submerged and dive gear would be needed to explore.
The tourist route is 1,200 meters by boat on the underground lake, another 300 meters on foot. The variety of stalactites (hanging down) and stalagmites (protruding up) was phenomenal. * A stalactite is made from minerals in the water that drip down from the cave ceiling.
The minerals build up over time. If the drip water lands on a hard surface then a stalagmite builds ‘upward’. Some formations looks like fabric ribbons, others like slender needles. Some like fence posts. It was a thoroughly enjoyable experience… Our thoughts occasionally went to the recent Thai cave rescue. It was easy to understand the attraction the boys and coach would have had. 
The next day we set off for Mystras. We decided to take the mountain road because there was to be no threat of rain. Fewer rocks could be expected to fall and better visibility. The mountain drive was the best we have experienced in the Mediterranean.
Heading up from Kalamata, we enter the gorge… Stunning! Forested mountain walls and cliffs. Steep canyon walls. Signs warning of rocks tumbling over and onto the road followed by slippery when wet or ice / snowy… Tire chains recommended in winter months. There were several climbing parks and hiking trails along the route. A few pull off areas with dramatic vistas. Once through the gorge you pass through a valley, its timber logged off but slowing regenerating itself. As you near the Mystras area the valley opens up to a large plain and toward to the city of Sparta. A lot of agriculture, mostly olive groves.
Mystras. Now an archeological site. In 1249 a fortress and castle was built on the hill top. Over time, a village was built, complete with homes, mansions and palaces. Churches, lots of churches. Market places. Bathes etc. People lived here continually until the 1950’s when the government ordered everyone to leave in order to fully transition the sire into a tourist attraction. The old fortress is in ruins but many of the buildings on the hill are in good order, mainly the churches. We spent a good part of the day wandering around the grounds before heading home.
We stopped for lunch in the mountain village of Tripi. A lovely setting with water running out of the mountain and along the wall that makes up the back of the restaurant. Fresh, cold water. The restaurant uses the ‘stream’ to keep the table water cool, grabbing a jug as needed and plopping it on the tables for serving. We had lamb, fresh fried potatoes (french fries), slovakia (pork skewer) and a greek salad with crust wheat bread.
Back home, we prepped the boat of our passage to Malta. Purchased groceries and supplies. The breakables and shiftable's stowed. Jim topped up the water and made the deck ready for passage. Diesel fuel jugs and tank filled. Oil changed. Kathy gutted the bins and lockers to offloaded several bags of goods (food and toiletries) which we donated to the marina office for distribution to the needy.
Jim attempted to check out of the country but… Greece didn't want to let us go. ‘You need return tomorrow, This ‘ paper’ not sufficient… you must see the port police… not today, maybe tomorrow, we don't know…. ‘ ahhhh!!! … Jim found a way to mostly appease them and was told to return in the morning (??) and they would allow us to depart….
*Greece has suffered a terrible tragedy. Several fires near Greece. An entire village gone. 79 dead… Possibly arson. The president declared 3 days of mourning. Our condolences to those affected…
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| one of four traveling sales vans with plastic deck furniture |
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| YIKES... busses and and RVs travel this road so I guess we can make it |
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| Lunch time |
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