SV Inishnee: Atlantic Passage : east to west *Canary Islands to Cape Verde

Atlantic Passage : the first leg

Sao Miguel, Tenerife, Canary Islands to
Mindelo, Sao Vicente, Cape Verde

815+ nautical miles

Our new crew and son, Stephen, joined us in Tenerife to help with the crossing… the weather window for our first leg and shake down cruise would keep us in port (Tenerife) until December 4th, longer than we would have liked.

Our time was spent touring the island (see previous blog post) and prepping for the crossing; provisioning and securing items, safety discussions, general maintenance and cleaning.

On December 4th we left the marina and anchored near Red Mountain for the final hours. Stowing fenders, securing the dinghy on the fore deck and putting the jack lines along the deck. Jack lines are long, flat lines attached to the side decks from bow to stern for crew members can attach their safety harness tether, allowing them to move along the deck with limited risk of being swept off or falling overboard.

After a pleasant day and dinner, we toasted the sea, the ship and the crew for a safe passage before departing… the next day… a FRIDAY!

December 6… Friday. Superstition says you should never leave on a voyage on a Friday. but, leave we did, though we hope the ‘sea Gods’ might overlook this small transgression, after all, we left the marina and dock on a Thursday…

What’s a sailors favorite letter?…. “Tis the C we love”…( A bit of humor from Stephen)

The wind was good, tracking from behind. The waves were rather confused causing the crew to suffer unsettled stomachs and headaches in short order. But, Inishnee was up for the challenge, charging south toward Cape Verde, 815 miles over the horizon. The winds continued building, we reefed the main (made the sail smaller) once, then twice, then again down to the 3rd and last reef point. No headsail needed. Boat speeds were steady 7 knots and hitting 8 with gusts of 28 knots. The boat fishtailed and surfed; lunged and bucked…not the best start. Ginger tea and crackers for dinner.

The overnight watch schedule was decided; 3 hour night watches. The first two nights at sea, Kathy and Jim would alternately accompany Steve on watch, this being his first, long distance passage.

The first night passed uneventfully, although we took a few small waves in the cockpit.

December 7 Getting our sea legs. The deck was cleared of the nightly catch of flying fish.

Day watch saw dolphins and sea birds. The seas a bit more agreeable as night approached. The sails wing and wing with a whisker pole holding the gib in place. The boat tolerating the ride better than the crew, though we were able to cook a hot meal and eat together in the cockpit for dinner. At 0230 GMT (universal time), Stephen and Kathy on watch, we were still flying along at 7-8 knots when the whisker pole retracted, creating a heck of a racket (too much excitement very quickly) and requiring the attention of all the crew. We reviewed the procedures ahead of us and set about the task. Jim and Steve on deck; harnesses attached to the jack lines… dealing with the pole and lines, Kathy manning the cockpit sheets and halyard. With the aid of the spreader lights and headlamps, the guys wrestled the sail and pole to the deck where it would wait till morning.

December 8 With first light, the guys went forward, their umbilical cords attached the jack lines, to reset the sails. The events from the previous night had caused spinnaker halyard (which was used to supported the whisker pole) to wrap around the starboard spreader. The boat swayed and rocked while the guys tugged and whipped the deck end of the halyard. A frustrating and comical symphony of cusses and flapping. One lucky break caused the line swing free and was hastily secured to the sail. Winds were gusting near 30. The sea swells close together at 3-5 feet.

Blue water with white caps on the cresting waves. Kathy ‘requested’ another reef be put in the main; but we were already on the 3rd and final reef. The crew still uncomfortable; not quite seasick but not far from it! The meal plan so carefully made, gone to shit… Everything topside wet and salty from waves and spray. The winds were so strong they were actually lifting the wind generator from its mount on the side of the boat. Several icicle hitches were required to keep it from launching into the air. We were getting bruised and battered; egos and bodies. Impossible to predict where your foot would fall when attempting the next step. Only 440 miles to go… ahhh

December 9 a VERY frustrating day at sea… The solenoid for the propane / stove quite working, requiring someone to go to the ‘scary’ part of the boat (aft of the wheel), open the locker between waves, turn on/ off the valve manually and shut the lid before another wave crashed into it… repeating the maneuver for shutting the off fuel the supply… Yeah!, to our fearless man crew!

Soon after that the battery charger fan quite working… which meant we weren’t able to charge the batteries with it so the generator would have to be used; another trip or two to the scary part of the boat!…

Then, we discovered a leak in the aft cabin… waves breaking into the cockpit were funneling through the ignition control panel and the port for the stern anchor chain. Stephens bedding, pillows and mattress wet and salty. He and Kathy would need to hot bunk in the V-berth. Jim stayed vigilant on the settee in the cabin, resting when he could. The crew, all tired and uncomfortable, longing for a break from the sea state.

“I promise, this will end” from Jim seems utterly impossible.

December 10 260 Nautical miles to go… the crew counting down the miles. The seas were still quarreling, the crew caught up in the battle. Kathy celebrated her 50 something birthday. Her boats mates gave her the day off (very generous of them since no one was getting enough rest or sleep). She declined but was greatly touched at their thoughtfulness… She was ‘presented’ with a lovely new camera, easy to use and quick with the shutter… practice shots of the sea for now and a few crew pictures too. PBJ for dinner. Too many waves coming on board to risk opening the propane locker… or using any sharp instruments

December 11 Rolling along. GPS says we will arrive at midnight… The crew is ready! but, a night arrival in a foreign port is less than ideal. After a crew meeting it was decided we’d ‘heave to’ until morning… a maneuver where you back wind the front sail and stall the boats forward progress. Unfortunately with the strong winds and ‘helping’ current we were drifting too fast and would still make land fall before morning anyway. So, another crew meeting at midnight, we decided to resume sailing and go to the harbor in the dark…

The beacon from the north lighthouse just coming into view. The crew remain vigilant, looking out for ships and other evidence that might cause calamity…

The anchor was down at 0230 in Mindelo Harbor, Cape Verde… 2:30 am. The crew exhausted. The shake down cruise’s theme song: ‘Shake, Rattle and Roll’ (by Big Joe Turner) … but you only singing the chorus… over and over and over, with a few HANG ONs thrown in for variety.

5 arduous days, 10 hours and a few minutes…

It may not seem long to you, reader… but, let me assure you, it was the longest days of our lives! Hard fought and won…

We slept till 10am, then got to the task of making some sense of the boat; wet gear hung to dry, galley put to order, head freshened and tidied up; then we made a plan to go ashore. The marina was quite lively, boats thrashing about, straining their lines (some breaking) and jerking at the cleats.

A north swell was well at work, eliminating the possibility for acquiring a berth. The Floating Bar at the end of the marina, a welcome relief to passage-makers.
Refreshments and restaurant, internet, a chandlery and access to shore! Several locals greet the newbies, hoping to provide services; taxi, directions, tours, information, etc…

We hired a taxi and driver for one hour to drive us to various places and be our interpreter; Mindelo and all the Cape Verde Islands speak Portuguese. Laundry was dropped off (ready in 3 hours), Propane bottle filled while we waited and an electronics store located where we purchased two fans for our battery charger’s cooling unit. With time to spare before the laundry was ready, we took up residence at the Floating Bar and met up with fellow cruisers and Michiganders, Laura and Gary on Up Bound (dey are Yoopers dont cha know) for lunch and welcome drinks. We shared stories of the crossing to date, hoping the next leg would be more comfortable, less wet and no drama.

We inquired about a tour to the neighboring island of Sao Antao, reported to be a MUST SEE for travelers. We took the early ferry (7am) to reach the island since its harbor is not suitable for cruising boats. Upon arrival dozens of ‘would be guides’ descend on the passengers hoping for a sale. We hired Eric on the recommendation of Sofie and Ryan (another cruising couple). Our tour would encompass the northern potion (loop) of the island; the south only assessable by 4 wheel all terrain vehicles.

Eric spoke good english and was quite informative on the sites, locations and history as we bounced along the old cobble stone road. He grew up on the island and now earns a living guiding tourists. The island has two very distinct sides, drastically different from one another. The east side barren and dry, the west lush and green.

The ride began up the ‘old road’ toward the volcanic peaks; took 15 years to build the road and is made entirely of hand cut cobble stones… from Porto Novo to Riberia Grande and beyond.

Traveling up the slopes and crossing ravines, unobstructed views of the sea.

Climbing further we entered the tree line (pine).

Homes with modest accommodations;

chickens,

cattle,

donkeys

and goats grazing or working the hill sides.

Breathtaking views would follow…

calderas and volcanic peaks

steep ridges

river valleys

villages

crops included…

root vegetables

corn

sugar cane

mango

papaya

coastal towns

fishing harbors

Our return trip took us on the new road, opened in 2009, paved and modern with a few tunnels, it follows the north coast.

The excursion was defiantly well worth the visit.

We returned on the last ferry of the day, then retired to Inishnee.

The weather window for the second leg of the Atlantic passage was hours away, so preparations got underway for departure. We stocked up on fresh produce, local bread and meat, then took Inishnee to the fuel dock for diesel and water. The swell still grieving the harbor, we worked quickly to top off the tanks, then rinsed the boat and gear as best we could; the dock master not caring for our wasteful use of water as well as the extra time we were tying up the fuel dock, though there were no other customers to serve… One final night out before the dinghy was stowed on deck; the safety rear checked and readied. The crew anxious to be off….