Atlantic Crossing : part 2
Mindelo, San Vicente, Cape Verde to Bridgetown, Barbados
2030 + nautical miles
Per custom, we gave thanks to and toasted the sea, Inishnee and the crew; this time with a bigger glass hoping to better appease the Sea Gods…
December 17 7:30 am the anchor was up. We raised and reefed the main before leaving the harbor, winds expected to be 15- 25 knots. The seas were spirited but manageable compared to our last voyage. The boat motion lively but doable. so far….
As soon as we cleared the safety of the harbor we again started taking waves into the cockpit. Winds were steady 25- 33 knots. Not wanting another wet bunk calamity (it took days to dry the last of the moisture from the pillows) we used duct tape to seal known areas for water intrusion. Chris, the auto pilot was back at work; steering the boat and handling the surf.
Dec 18… the seas calmed some the second day. A sweep of the deck found ‘crispy’ flying fish which were returned to the sea. A large pod of dolphins payed us a visit, jumping, flipping and charging through our bow wake, narrowly missing the leading edge, or so it seemed to the crew. noon to noon distance : 142 NM
Dec 19 Quiet, roll’y and slow. Flying fish. Lots of stars / planets. 142 noon to noon.
Dec. 20 We had to set a new course to track north of the rhumb line, per our friend David Whitford advice; fellow sailor and weather router, to find some wind, which we did! noon to noon distance 157 NM… It was noisy and uncomfortable but at least we were making good time. Still taking waves in the cockpit but staying dry below… Our current rate estimated we’d arrive in Barbados about December 31!!!!
Our batteries were having a hard time meeting the demands of our electrical needs so we needed to run the generator an hour or so a day to top them up. We’d had good weather (no storms!) but the wind generator doesn’t perform as well with wind from the behind,…
The night watch saw sv Puffin on AIS. As the distance between us closed we got a visual on their lights which thoroughly confused us; they were sailing(?) with running lights and tri-color (you use one or the other), their speed and course was erratic and changed several times over the course of a couple hours. We hailed them on VFH to make sure they were doing ok. The captain said all was well. We wished them a safe journey before signing off.
Dec 21 We changed course again, this time south, to find wind and avoid an area of doldrum, so we jibed south. Waves continually breaking over combing, dousing the seating and crew. We routinely wore our foulies to keep from getting soaked even though the temperatures were steadily getting warmer… With the new tack, we discovered chafe on the main sail due to its position on the spreader arm… a small adjustment relieved the stress.
Dec 22 Another course change, again to find wind, which has been fluky. Our noon to noon run only 113 NM… mid day we were hailed by a research vessel coming from behind. She was pulling a very long cable and wanted to make sure we were able to and would stay clear. She also asked us if we had sighted a vessel named Ya2? (french flag) which we hadn’t. … We passed on the information regarding the Puffin and said we’d report in if we had contact with the missing french vessel.
Dec 23 the batteries are still quite thirsty… needing a top up regularly. A very quiet day with light wind, the sails popping loudly as the boom swayed side to side, the seas still confused. Stephen took advantage of the calm’ish conditions to make a lead-rope for their pup Apollo.
Dec 24 We found some wind and were back making decent speed again. The cock pit dry, hooray! Noon to noon was 113NM but should improve in the following days. With the seas behaving properly for the first time on this passage, Kathy made a loaf for fresh bread from scratch; what remained of our purchased loaves had gone bad (moldy) as did most of the fresh produce…
While the bread was raising, it was decided we would empty the head. A fairly straight forward task ...Open a through hull, uncap the deck vent and glug glug it goes into the deep, deep sea… It’s very, VERY deep here…
Things didn't go as planned... and well; if you want details... you need to ask one of the crew what happens if you have a 'shit storm'...
Stephen sighted our first Tropicbird! Kathy would deem our ‘good luck mascot’. With snow-white plumage and two long, spiked tail feathers, it’s easy to identify one even from afar due to its erratic wing beat… much like a pigeon’s flight.
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| internet photo |
Dec 25… merry christmas and Happy Half Way Day!!!! both milestones long in coming… 1014 miles to go. 144 NM noon to noon. The winds and seas were back to misbehavin’ The crews comfort, not awful but not ideal… Kathy surprised the crew with holiday hats with a small treat for each inside. Stephen (and Amanda) gifted Kathy and Jim mementos to mark the occasion. A proper Christmas dinner would need to wait for better conditions, tonights meal would be a simple veggie frittata made from the last of the Cape Verde produce and Confit de Canard (duck legs)… not the wisest choice, given the amount of fat four canned duck legs produce… I wonder if the fish enjoyed the dregs?… Flan for dessert.
Dec. 26 Halfway day plus one… Steady going and peaceful. Starry nights and shooting stars. Day sightings included several Portuguese Man O’War, their lovely pink and purple balloons drifting above, hiding their painful streamers trailing below. Tropic birds flying high and Storm Petrels gracing the tops of waves, darting over the crests.
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| internet photo |
While on midnight watch, Stephen was startled by a thunk then flopping next him… With complete darkness (no moon), he used his torch to light the area, where he discover a bird hobbling around in the cockpit! A Storm Petrel. It seemed as disoriented as Stephen was surprised… After a cursory visual exam, he gently lifted ‘Stormy’ from the floor and shuttled him to the sea side of the ship where it took flight… Stephen can now add ‘Bird Whisperer’ to his credentials…
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| and more flying fish... |
Dec 27 Lights winds. After several days tracking south (200 miles) of our rhumb line to 11 degrees 26 minutes latitude so we could keep the sails filled… we finally set a course direct to Barbados! A joyful moment… (We just might make it)…
Man O’War occasionally drifted aft while sea birds swooped over head…
Dec 28 Saturday
Red sky at night, sailors delight… red sky in morning, sailors take warning…
We woke to a gorgeous (ominous?) red sky… this can be forbearer to bad weather approaching. Fortunately this weather forecasting poem is only just in northern latitudes. In the tropics, it’s a distortion of light with no negative connotations… so, we enjoyed the moment. It turned out to be a very good day… The crews spirits were up, the seas were down. The boat was making good speed again hovering in the 6 knot range. We had a harmonica recital… each of us now owning our very own pocket concert. A pleasant dinner accompanied with a few sips of dram… the crew, feeling giddy sang sea shanties from ‘Saturday Night at Sea’ 
A few spitting mists of rain and one small shower. Not quite enough to diminish the crusted salt from the deck or lines.
Dec 30 06:20 am… 399 miles to go! The batteries still needed daily top ups. The boat speed had slowed but we were still in good spirits…Stephen tried the hand line (fishing) hoping to catch dinner but only landed Sargassum Seaweed, the shag carpet of the sea.
The quantity of Saragossa seaweed increased exponentially as we closed in on Barbados. A few handfuls floating by; growing in size: small rugs knitting into blankets, covering large expanses of the denim blue seas …
Night watch found 2 boats on AIS the first sightings in over a week and one (weather?) buoy.
Dec 31 New Years Eve, our original arrival date; thwarted by big seas and light winds… We still had nearly two days yet to go. The day passed pleasantly. We hadn’t touched the sails in over a week, just tweaking the autopilot. Speeds down a bit through the day and into the night. No fireworks aboard or on the horizon… but Boobies… We saw Boobies! They were a bit shy but appeared to be Brown Boobies… with blue beaks!
Jan 1 Happy New Year! 2020 GPS says tomorrow we arrive in Bridgetown, Barbados in the wee hours of the morning… 99.99 miles to go….The crew is overjoyed!
and song... .99 nautical miles to go (sung to the tune of 99 bottles of beer of the wall)
It’s the small things that count.
The forecasted predicted winds to be light, so we hoisted the spinnaker. It went up gracefully and pulled us along happily for over an hour, our boat speed increased to 7+ knots… then a wind shift caused it to flounder and wrap around the head sail. The guys muscled it down, trapping it in its sleeve and tucked it back away. Ahhh. The sails were reset to wing and wing with the headsail poled out.
Todays menu: per Stephen’s New Years day ‘good luck’ meal tradition, we managed to make a boat version. Cabbage salad for lunch, Blacked peas with potatoes and sausage (pork) stew for dinner. We each had a glass of grape juice (aka wine)… All of which are thought to bring prosperity and wealth to the diner…
… We continued on through the day and night…. ticking off mile after mile… The faint scents of land, not yet visible, wafted gently on the breeze; soil and flowers.
Jan 2 At 3 am, the glow from Barbados was clearly on the horizon… Soon followed by beacons from the lighthouses. The crew assembled in the cockpit to watch as the land surfaced from the endless sea. 
December 17, 2019 - January 2, 2020
16 days
Barbados
We were directed to the cruise ship port for customs to check into the country. Stephen was first ashore snagging our lines and securing them to the HUGE bumpers. Jim took care of the formalities and returned for Steve who needed to be present to be removed from the crew list.
We requested a berth in the town harbor for one night. We ALL really needed a night on shore and plenty of fresh water for everything!
Bridgetown had a bridge… a very small bridge over the river that leads to the small marina. With little room for error, Jim navigated Inishnee down and around the watery maze and through the lift bridge. Stephen latched onto the mooring ball and held fast while Kathy tossed lines ashore. A few adjustments and we were done… Tied and elated… A quick lunch with cold water chasers before dousing the boat. Cleaning and organizing took much of the day… Dinner and drinks ashore.
Stephen remained in the cockpit after dinner enjoying the nightlife… All but the rats that scampered along the harbor wall!
We were al up early and after learning about the 4 legged dock mates the crew decided we’d have to leave asap….
We split up on errands (groceries etc) and were back and ready for the 10:30 bridge opening…
We made our way around to Carlisle Bay and dropped the hook.
We would remain in the bay for the duration of our stay. Stephen had a flight home the end of the week; allowing us time to explore the island.
Carlisle Bay offering a variety of activities… Swimming, snorkeling and diving. Restaurants and bars. And, with 3-5 cruise ships arriving daily, it is a hub for day-trippers.
Our only beef was with the jet skiers… Every day they would buzz around like bees, the anchored boats their honey pots… We took salt spray and waves on and in the boat including through the port windows and one rider even hit the boat! He did apologize though…
We arranged for a car and toured the island. Fairly easy since the island is only 21 miles long and half as wide. 
Harrisons Cave
Animal Flower Cave
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| this is an Animal Flower... |
St. Nicholas Abbey / Plantation House and Rum Distillery
Bathsheba
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| prepping flying fish for Cutters |
We found Barbados to be a lovely stop though every expensive.
We frequented the Cruisers Boat Club enjoying sunsets and arum punches followed by Cutters… Cutters are sandwiches made from Flying Fish… battered and deep fried.
Local eats included CouCou and Doubles and curries
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| horses swiming |
Stephen returned home to his family; THANK YOU Amanda for lending him!!!!
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| Maureen an excellent customs Officer thank you much for your kindness !!!! |
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| Marie S Merian the research vessel we saw en-route to Barbados ans subsequently arrived in Barbados 2 weeks after us! |
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| local beer |
We departed with a good weather window to Grenada…
One last overnight …
As dawn broke we rounded the north end and motored the last dozen miles to Port Lois Marina, Grenada…
The Circumnavigation of the Atlantic complete…
Dear Kathy & Jim, Congratulations on completing your circumnavigation of the Atlantic! We have followed your blogs and looked forward to each new entry since you left our home port in Saugatuck, Michigan, June 2015. I guess you can say we have vicariously lived some of your adventures. Thank you so much for sharing your world travels through your very interesting and detailed blogs and accompanying photos. Best wishes as you continue to go further! Hope our paths will cross again someday. Artha & Bill
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