Dominica : a treasure island

March 4 Finishing up on The Saints

Our last day on the Saints we did laundry, got caught up on emails and blog postings, ate gelato and croissants.  And… met Matt.  Matt was sitting outside the laundry / internet / mini bar / customs office…  He was in the middle of making a coconut palm frond hat for a tourist.  We watch and were amazed at his skills and quick work.  I commissioned a bowl from him.  No problem, I have it done is 15 minutes.  And he did.  He was quite a character.  Very energetic and charismatic.  He lives on the second street back off main.  Next to the coconut palm he harvests for his craft.  A nice chat, some dollars changed hands and we were off with our booty… and our clean laundry… 

March 5 - 13

Portsmouth, Dominica 

A most excellent adventure.  

We sailed to Dominica buddy boating with friends Eric and Anne.  A very pleasant sail.  Winds 15 -20, swells manageable, unless you had to cook of use the head… just over 20 miles.  No fish would take the bate and we narrowly avoided a encounter with a log.  whew..  As we dropped sails to enter the harbor we could see one of the local boats approaching… He offered assistance as well as tour guide services.  Several others follower suit.  

We each took mooring balls and got cleared into customs / Immigration.  Dominica has the EASIEST clearance policy we have encountered so far.  You can check in and out with one visit, stay for up to 2 weeks.  If you want to stay longer, no problem, extensions happily granted.  

The local PAYS group (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) helps cruisers with all things boating, touring and provisioning.  The locals created PAYS as a way to ensure cruisers would stay longer, feel welcome and safe.  They have a patrol boat that cruises the mooring field through out the night.  Daily they assist in all cruising and touring needs.  On Sunday nights they host a dinner / bbq for cruisers.  Kind of a meet and greet event with music after.  Very loud, very happenin’ tunes.  

Calypso's Cabin / Pirates of the Caribbean II

Our friends Michelle and Jim from  S/v Wind Machine had been here for several days already.  We invited everyone over for beverages to discuss tour options for the coming week.  Jim and Michelle met another cruising couple, Jill and Rob, and they joined us as well.    

Dominica has very rugged terrain.  The guide book claims it is the only Caribbean island that Columbus would recognize if he were to return today…The volcano is dormant but not far below the surface there is sufficient hot lava to fuel several hot springs.  It has a number of rivers and even fresh water lakes.  

With the group of 8 we were able to narrow down the numerous tour options to 3.  By teaming up and sharing the costs we saved on expenses.  

Tour 1.   Indian River / Bush Bar

We arranged for pick up from each of our respective boats and were on shore and ready by 9 am.  Dominica has National Park Entrance fees separate from the tour costs.  Our guide; Jerome.  We set off up the Indian River, Jerome manning the oars.  No motors of ANY kind allowed.  Within minutes we were surrounded by dense vegetation, Jerome referencing names and botanical information as we floated along.  Bloodwood trees, the sap oozes a blood red color and was formerly used as a dye.  Flowers, ferns, coconut palms. Shore birds, mullets, crabs.  A jog to port and we rowed up a small branch of the main river.  A small shack perched a few feet above the mangroves, home of the witch Calypso from Pirates of the Caribbean II.  Our guide company Cobra has rebuilt the shack and maintained it so tourists can see the set for themselves.  The gnarly old mangroves trees make a stunning surroundings for the cabin.

Continuing down the main branch of the river,  we continued sighting many birds and  shore creatures.  The water is murky and brackish. Light penetrates through in a few places casting sun dogs onto the gently flowing waters.  The tour pauses at a bend in the river at the Bush Bar where we were treated to a small, jungly garden of lush plants.  The coconut man, aka Augustus, has fresh, young coconut for sampling.  First he hacks away at the very hard outer shell with his machete… all fingers still intact !  Then skillfully, a small nip in one side and fresh, cool coconut water for those contributing a couple bucks.  After we emptied the coconuts of their liquid, he then hacked some more and we ate the flesh.  These we very young coconuts and the insides were tender, almost pulp like.  Augustus then had us follow him a few steps to the coconut palm were he climbed to the very tip top (for each tour group!).  No rope of harnesses.  Just brute strength and agile hands and feet.  Upon his return to solid footing he then did a hand stand and ‘walked’ a few yards.   The calluses on his hands and feet proof he has spent years performing these tasks for onlookers.  His age ? … 40 something?… 

Return trip; gently drifting down with the tide.  Jerome directing our progress and rowing as needed. We returned to the dock, payed our tour fees and were shuttled back to our boats.  

Tonight we all attended the PAYS bbq.  Chicken, pork or fish.  Salad and rice.  All the rum punch you could drink followed by dancing … even MY Jim danced !

A really great day.

Tour 2   Island Adventure Tour, Middleham Falls and Tia’s Hot Sulfur Springs.   

We were picked up a 8 am.  A long day ahead of us.  Danny our tour guide today.  We wove through many small towns and villages.  Went up and over mountain ridges, gorges, rivers and along the coastline.  In August of last year (2015) the island received unprecedented rain.  The torrents of water building as it made it’s way into the ravines and valleys heading seaward.  The floods took out a number of bridges, inundated towns and villages along its path and nearly buried some seaside communities.  Anything in its path: cars, homes, businesses were damaged or destroyed.  It took a couple of months to put in bypass bridges causing travelers to take the  l  o  n  g  way around the island to get to the city.  Several businesses were not able to cope with the losses and have closed.  A rum distillery and coconut factory among them.  Hundreds of jobs lost.  Devastating families and drastically changing the communities earnings.  

We continued on, turning up from the sea shore and going up and up and up.  The brakes of the van treating us to wafts of overheating pads…  No problem says Danny… they were just replaced… 

Having driven to the limits of the navigable road, we then set off on foot.  The air was already quite a bit cooler and thinner at the start up the trail…  We began by walking up through the canopy of the jungle, climbing up spiderweb root structures, getting our footing between the maze under our feet.  Up, up and up… the trail turned to log steps intermixed with rocks and roots.  Up and down, through streams and more climbing.  … We came upon the 20 more minutes to the falls sign, now we needed to go down.  And down some more.  Then up and down and switch backs.  Finally we could hear the falls and catch glimpses of it through the undercarriage.  More down and around… then finally.  The magnificent Middleham Falls.   Anne and Eric had already taken the plunge into the very cool mountain pool the falls descend to.  We caught our breath and maneuvered between boulders to make the last few yards to the pool… directly below the falls.   Immediately it was apparent why we had been hearing shrieks coming from ahead as we closed in on the falls. The water was very, VERY cold!   Those brave enough swam with great effort up and under the falling cascade of water.  It was invigorating… Yes, I even braved the icy waters and took the plunge.  We played in the pool till our teeth chattered (not long), then climbed back to the platform installed by the Park staff.  We rested, had a snack. Then began the climb back up the switchback trail to the top of the mountain ridge and began our decent.  The return trip assisted by gravity was much faster.  

We stopped for a late lunch featuring local cuisine.  Goat curry, chicken or fish.  We all ate our fill sitting perched above a river gorge.  Then off again and onto the hot suffer springs.  More mountain passes, steep ascents and switch backs.   The springs were a perfect end to the long arduous climb we had all successfully completed.  After getting a thorough soaking in hot and hotter pools we had a fresh water rinse.  All of us are assuredly salt free after sooo much fresh water activity.  

The return trip brought us back over the same terrain and streets as the morning route.  Because of the August storm of last year that completely wipe out numerous bridges, many roads became dangerous to use. Red and white tape still is strung along sections of washout, a few barrels to further detour you from cutting the corner too close.  With some of the turns being quite sharp, it was very distressing to look at the road ahead and see the earth below the upcoming switchback eroded, pavement still partially in place.  … yet the cars, trucks, etc. still use this one and only road around the island.  When the floods came and the bridges were destroyed, it essentially locked in pockets of communities … A few individuals with larger boats were able to get supplies to theses communities in the months following the disaster, making a substantial profit in the process… according to Danny.   We put in a 11 hour day today… and it was awesome!

Tour 3 Island tour, Spanny Falls and  Kalinago (Carib) Village

We were met prompt at 8 am for our shuttle to shore, the rest of our group already aboard.  We wove our way east and north; mountain valleys, switch backs, ridges and coastline.  Danny our guide and driver again today had many interesting stops.  The ruins of a coconut roasting operation which we walked around and got sense of the process.  Danny foraged for a ripe coconut and using a stone cracked it open and spoke of the various parts and their uses. As we continued, Danny pointed out the many different crops along the drive, some gardens using the roadside for planting  things such as Cassava, eggplant, bananas, plantains, breadfruit…. and many more varieties.  

We continued on till we arrived at Spanny Falls, on private property.  The trail was easy to follow, Danny again stopping to point out and give samples of local produce including raw coffee beans.  Pop open the berry and suck on the seeds, then discard them.  We also tried raw fresh cocoa.  Same procedure as coffee.  Cut open the pod and such the thin flesh off the seed which is discarded.  The trail continued to a massive wall of ferns and foliage in which the mountain runoff drains over the side and keeps everything wet and dripping.  Around the corner and down the short but steep steps and the first of 2 falls appears.  A pool at the bottom to swim in.  The more adventurous of the group crossed the boulders of the river and climbed nearly straight up the opposite side of the wall, a rope secured tree to vine for assistance.  Swimming before the return trip.  With group back together, it was time to continue on with the journey.  

We made a stop at rasta Ronald’s roadside stand.  He had just roasted some coffee beans which we quick snatched up.  Lots of remarkable fruits, purple bananas that will turn red-orange when ripe (Sunday), guava, papaya, mango, pineapple, cabbage, pigeon peas… and plenty more.  Ronald also makes a coconut candy, roasted with ginger and lightly sweetened.    

Next, a late lunch overlooking the coast from a cafe perched on a cliff.  Fish (barracuda), smoked, spicy or baked chicken the options.  Sides included.  Lunch was followed with a local fruit sampling.  Guava, melon, cherries, banana and sugar cane.  

Back on the road, we stopped near the Carib / Kalinago Indian Territory.  The Kalinago people were the first to settle here, but were overcome by the fierce Caribs.  Today they are a peaceful people, known for their crafts including basket weaving, coconut shell ornaments: bird houses and carvings among the popular items sold.  The 8 off us all found wonderful treasures to return home with.  The sun was beginning its decent and we had spent nearly of our E.C.’s… the local money; Eastern Caribbean dollars.   The ride home circled around and intersected with our morning route.  Stunning coast line, cliffs drowning in the golden hour light and of course back over the washed out bridges and crumbling roads still in need of attention form the storm of last year.  Danny made a few unscheduled stops as we woven our way back… collecting local samples of flowers and plants creating a HUGE bouquet.  Back in Portsmouth, we divvied  up the foliage, gathered our purchases and were shuttled home.  Another spectacular experience on Dominica!  

Shopping at the fish and fresh market, dinner ashore and goodbyes…

Back to being live aboard’s.  Having seen a good deal of the natural habit the island has to offer we exchanged our tourist status back to cruisers and got back to living aboard.  The weather called for squalls and high winds the next few days so we were all staying put.  Several of us headed to shore early to hit the market and get provisions.  The sky was heavy with impending rain which opened fully on us as we disembarked the dinghy.  Rain coats and hats were little protection from the downpour.  Our ‘dry’ bags turned our to be not so dry, very damp bags.  Next time we use the heavy duty water proof ones.  At the fish market we made a purchase of a mahimahi for tomorrow night potluck, the 8 of us getting together before we head off in different directions.  We received a few tips on filleting from the locals then off to find a public bus to the supermarket.  $1.50 EC for a oneway ride pp… U.S. = 40 cents.  We made a few our purchases among the sparse selection then caught a bus back to the docks.   We purchased some fresh veggies and fruits at the local produce stands then off for home.  Thoroughly soaked!  The rains continued on and off all day the winds whistling through the rigging.  Several boats drug anchor but the PAYS guys were out immediately helping to rescue boats and minimize damage.  Only one collision, a French boat hit a catamaran creating minor damage, their anchors entangled; the PAYS guys again to the rescue.  A dinghy went for a solitary romp but was retrieved by another cruiser.  All this Harbor Cinema right out our back door.  

Jim borrowed Wind Machines hooka so he could replace the zinc on our prop shaft.  What’s a hooka?  In this case it’s device which allows a person to breath underwater without scuba gear.  Jim and Michelle made their hooka but they are sold commercially.  They use their air compressor attached to a hose attached to a regulator… wha la! 

Electrolysis happens naturally in water… more so in salt water.  All metals are susceptible.  Zinc is used as a sacrificial metal there by protecting the good stuff.  It is attached to different parts of a boats hull and is slowly eaten away by this process.  When sufficient erosion occur the zinc is replaced.  

We needed water so we called PAYS = Seabird = Jesse who is in charge of the water buoy.   Jesse wasn't available till late afternoon… he’d been up till the wee hours of the morning enjoying Friday night …  He met us at the mooring buoy, turned the picket on and we were all set.  The water buoy is a large float a few hundred yards off shore, 15 feet of water.  There is no proper dock for cruising boats to get to so this is their solution.  They have a submerged water line from shore running to the water buoy attached to a long hose.  

  

We met our cruising friends ashore with fixings for a potluck.  Wind Machine shared chart info with us all.  Michelle and Jim have traveled these waters many years and are a wealth of knowledge.  The mahimahi was put to the grill and we all ate our fill of fish and sides.  

Michelle and Jim (s/v WindMachine) will continue south as far as St. Lucia then turn back north for hurricane season.  

Jill and Rob (s/v Shakin the Dust) will continue north enroute to Texas, their home state.  

Anne and Eric (s/v Kahuli) heading north as well.  They plan to sail to Florida then prep their boat for overland transport to Washington State their home.  

I picked up a cold / flu bug… Never left the boat for 2 1/2 days… It rain nearly the entire time so I guess I didn't miss much.  Our final night in Dominica we were treated to another green flash!  This time there was no mistaking it.  It was quite vibrant.  To bed early to be ready for a long days sail tomorrow.  Up at 5am… Jim took note of our neighbors who had anchored their boat in front of us the previous afternoon… they were now behind us!  Very thankful they didn't hit us while dragging during the night.

We have gotten so good at fishing we don't even need a rod and reel any more.  The fish just fly in th boat while we are sleeping.  Unfortunately they are dried up and stinky by the time we find them, sometimes between our toes as we enter the cockpit (Jim) .. squishing eggs all over the floor…  not so nice first thing in the morning.

March 13

Today is my anniversary!  1 year ago today I retired.  It’s hard to believe all the fantastic things that have happened this past 12 months.  

I was feeling well enough today to sit topside.  Rain threatened on and off for the 55 + miles to Martinique.  We are traveling with Jim and Michelle as far as St. Lucia where they will turn back north.  Mother Nature was in a mood today and presented us with a double rainbow, very vibrant… then !  not one, but TWO whales !!! One off the starboard side, the other off port.  I think they were humpbacks but we have not had enough experience with whales… yet

We made St. Pierre, Martinique just after 3:30 PM…

Guadalupe and the Saints

Guadalupe

Feb 29 - March 2

 Our sail to Guadalupe was just about perfect.  Good wind, not too much heel.  Fish on, barracuda back to the sea then a tuna!  It put up a good fight but we are learning some tricks and we managed to get dinner on board!  A very nice size, 10 pounds +/- . Jim took care of the filet etc on the foredeck before it went in the fridge.  Our dry spell is over.  

We made the anchorage of Deshaies  pronounced Day-ay = French … ?  We set the hook, Jim cleared us into customs etc and we were ready for dinner.  Anne and Eric joined us.  Fish is not my thing but this tune was fantastic.  We had a side is saluted christophene with onion and carrots.  

The morning brought rain which continued on and off through out the day.  We were feeling a bit lazy and sat at a cafe and enjoyed the view while sipping expresso and ice coffee.  The cafe was directly on the waterfront allowing for a great harbor views… including todays Harbor Cinema.  I had read that if a cruising boat needed water there is a    l  o  n  g   hose that can be taken to the boat and filled, there is nowhere for cruisers to tie to a dock on shore.  As we sat sipping a catamaran demonstrated how it’s done.  They had to pull very close to shore and anchor, too close for the depths needed for our boat.  On shore the water hose was made ready and a dinghy took the hose to the cat.  They had to reposition closer since the line was just a bit shy of their boat.  After the hose was aboard the filling commenced, a very slow process…  

We strolled the very picturesque little town, two blocks wide.  4 maybe 5 long.  A river running to the sea on the edge of town.  If you walk (stumble)  up (in)  the river for 2 hours… there is a waterfall… Our friends Anne and Eric attempted the journey and after a considerable time they gave up and returned to town.  

We ducked into a wine store during one of the downpours.  Found a nice box of French wine to depart with as well as a sampling of a few local rums.  The French love the local rums soooo much it too is sold in boxes and sent to France.  Sixes from 1 -2 liters to 5 liters…. wine and rum.  

Continuing on our walk we happened upon a local selling his catch from his pickup bed.  A mahimahi.  quite large.  He de-finned, beheaded and sawed the fish into sections as we watched.  Scales to weigh and price the purchase in the bed of the truck.  It was tempting to purchase but our fridge still has a good portion of tuna to consume so we took a pass.  

Up on the hillier looking town is the cemetery.  Built above ground in the islands, this one appears to cling to the side of the hill.  

The morning of our departure, Lizzi brought us our preordered croissants to the boat.  Toasty warm, chocolate and plain.  The French know how to do pastries!  Lizzie’s other boat services include, laundry, trash removal, fruit and vegetable provisioning, wines and rums as well as local guide for hiking etc.  She is a very ambitious young lady, 

Off to Iles Des Saints ( The Saints)

The coast of Guadalupe is around 30 miles long.  Guadalupe is actually two islands very close together.  The 2 sides look a bit like a butterfly with open wings.  

The Saints.  

March 2 - 5

There are several islands close together which are considered the Saints.  They are part of Guadalupe. French Islands.  Very picturesque.  Camera needs to really at every corner.   There is a lot of tourist about coming and going from Guadalupe veil the ferrys.  The clipper ship Star Clipper comes in with 200+ passengers once every 2 weeks.  There are lots of unique items to purchase from very fashionable clothing,  souvenirs and wonderful french cuisine and of course hot fresh bread and croissants.  Chocolate is de-lish!

Jim, Anne and Eric climbed to the highest point of the island and back in just over 2 hot sweaty hours.   I opted for ice coffee at the sea side cafe and some shopping… a few great purchases.  Cathy Regnier is a local french water color painter.  She paints local scenes and sells the originals or prints.  We found a lovely beach fishing scene to ad to our newly started collection.  

The main street which follows the beach for a mile or so is filled with cafes, shops, groceries and fresh food stalls.  Many lovely homes / cottages refurbished to suit modern needs.  Most of the shops here open early, by 8am, and close for lunch… noon till ? … restaurants usually close as well and do not open till at least dark… 7pm…. We are usually tucked in safe by 6:30 so we have not seen the night life here.  

The language barrier is a bit daunting.  Try as best I can the proprietors just give me a bewildered looks when I try to ask for even the simplest things… One gal give me a lovely smile and said, “ why don't you just try english…”  oh well.  

We are checking in and out of Ilse de Staints again…. the weather report said stay put unless you are a masochist.  So we are doing laundry… an all day task with 2 washers and the lunch closing intermission… Internet…. and some more exploring.  

Montserrat ... and the active volacno

Montserrat 

feb 27 / 29

Our late afternoon arrival put us ashore after 5.  Jim cleared us in to the country and we went to meet other boat friends Eric and Anne.  Anne and Eric own a Kelly Peterson 46 foot sailboat; Kahuli.   When asked what Kahuli means, Anne said it’s Hawaiian for money pit… 

seriously, it means tree snail in Hawaiian.   The name came with the boat and they have decided keep the name for now.  We made plans to tour with them in the morning to see the volcano area.  Cecil our guide.

9am.  We met up with Cecil and his young nephew as he was loading the other passengers into his mini van.  A family of 4 from Belgium.  One, two, three …. eight, nine, ten.  Ten of us in his mini van… an island mini van.  We managed to fit and were mostly comfortable.  

The island of Montserrat has an active volcano, Soufriere Hills,  erupting since 1995.  It is an ash volcano emitting hot, suffocating ash as opposed to lava.  A major eruption in 1997 led to the evacuation of most of the islanders and eventual destruction of the capital town, Plymouth.   The southern half of the island uninhabitable. The population went from 11,000 to todays 5,000.  Many inhabitants relocated permanently.  The dome of the volcano collapsed in 2003.  Another eruption in 2006 followed by the biggest in 2010. There is an exclusion zone in much of the southern half of the island, although a small portion is open to day visits (tours) and some ash mining.  The volcanic ash that fell and buried everything in its path is now exported to other islands for it’s rich nutrient content for agriculture.  

Cecil guided us up and over the very steep mountain peaks and switch backs, narrating as we went.  We made a quick stop at Runaway Ghaut were we all took a sip from the runoff of a mountain spring ensuring we would all return to Monserrat someday… according to legend.  We went to the overlook at the observatory many miles from the crater which is still spewing ash and gasses making it impossible to see the actual rim.  We continued down and through the Belham River crossing, warnings of mudflows following heavy rains along the road side.  The air had the telltale sent of sulfur (rotten eggs).  We were able to walk around and through several buildings that were abandoned.  Many had items laying about as though the inhabitants would be back to continue with their lives.  The ash was many feet thick is some places.  Chairs and tables buried to their seats.  Swimming pools filled with ash now large green spaces.  The destruction immense. 

Many lost everything.  Montserrat is a British Colony.  When the island was evacuated Britain issued all inhabitants a British passport.  A small consolation for their losses.  Living in the shadow of a volcano, especially an active one is not easy.  The new capital is in the north, Little Bay.  Nearly everything there is new since it was only a small blip on their map with few inhabitants.  Little Bay is situated on the very steep slopes of the north east side.  A small semi protected harbor for ship traffic.  There are plans to build a break wall making the harbor more hospitable to cruisers as well as ferry traffic and supply ships.  

The tour concluded, we got a bite to eat at one of the few places open on a Sunday.  Many of the islands still respect the day as family time as well worship.  The special, ribs and chicken with Sunday dinner sides.  Veggies, salad, rice.  

Next up … cricket!  We walked up to the athletic field and watch the teams warm up.  None of us had any clue about how the game is played.  The fans were quite vocal, shouting in the local dialect which was described by Cecil as broken english.  The ending of words dropped and the rest spoken very, VERY quickly.  We considered asking about the rules and meanings of some of the plays but 1) it’s cricket…. it can’t be explained   2) broken english is beyond our comprehension.  Having watched over an hour with one team still at bat, we decided to leave.  As it turned out the ‘inning’ was over and we made our exit without distracting the crowd too much.  

Anne and Eric joined us for happy hour aboard Inishnee.  We chatted boating and cruising, family and life.  Then, made plans to sail to Guadalupe tomorrow.  

Nevis 2016

Nevis

Feb 22 - 27

We sailed / motor sailed from St. Maartin to Nevis.  The solar panels fueling the batteries as well as the wind generator.  The sailing part of the journey was very boisterous.  Heeling at 20*, not too comfortable.  12 hours from St. Martin, we made the port of Charlestown about 8:30pm, well after dark.  The moon was full, helping a bit as we idled in.  No mooring balls available we were forced to set the anchor.  2 frustrating hours later…. we finally got a hold on the bottom and hit the kill switch.  

Jim was up and ready for customs et all by 8 am.  Unfortunately they had other issues (?) which meant it would be a bit of a wait…  

(commercial break) Nevis is one of two islands countries; St. Kitts (Christopher) their sister island.  Nevis has one volcanic peak / crater, Mount Nevis, 3000 feet high; dorment.  Several other smaller ‘hills’ dotted along its slopes.   A good deal of the shore line is relatively low land, great for habitation and agricultural purposes…. 

Port authority, customs and immigration cleared… we are free to move about the country.   We upped the anchor and headed down the shore to the larger, more protected mooring field at Pinneys Beach.  We restored order to the boat and had a bite to eat.

Afternoon shore execution.  Sunshine’s Beach Bar and Grill.  “Killer Bee’ their specialty drink. $10 US dollars each ! we took a spot in one of the very festive personal lounge areas.  Huge bed like benches with giant pillows, colorful curtains billowing with the breeze surrounding each seating area.  A fur ball approaches under the table… hello kitty… nope… it’s Peanut.  the resident, sort of tame, vervet monkey.  He  jumped on the table and helped himself to the remains of the last tenants beverages.  Quite a sight and entertaining until the leftovers were gone and he wanted our beverages… Teeth bared and a hiss, we were quick to grab our cups and were temporarily successful in shoeing him off.  He retreated to the palm tree next to us.  The bar staff were soon to the rescue suppling Peanut with bananas which he thoroughly enjoyed.  The Killer Bee proved to be quite potent and we were glad for the spacious lounging chairs.   Our cruising kitty’s daily allowance maxed out from the happy hour purchase we returned to the boat.  Sunset, dinner.  A good nights rest.

Charlestown.  We went to shore to explore the very laid back town, the only town on the island.  A few communities dispersed along the circumference with necessities such as fuel and groceries.  Nevis has some of the friendliest islanders we have met yet.  Smiles with good morning / afternoon on everyones lips.  Nicholas was quick to greet us.  An aging gentleman who would be happy to give us a tour… The government has strict regulations and set fees for most services including taxi / tours.  No bargaining.  Nicolas and his van appeared to be of the same vintage, in about the same shape; showing some wear and tear.  A bit slow on the start, but reliable and interesting.  After a few tries at  the starter the engine grumbled to life and we were off. 

 The island has countless sugar plantations ruins  Several have been converted into high end resorts.  Princess Diana and her boys stayed at the Montpelier Resort.  

The Hermitage has rescued dozens of island cottages from demolition, moved and renovated them into guest houses.  Gingerbread type architecture.  

Golden Rock is home to very impressive gardens rivaling the next door Botanical Gardens.  Each of the rental units are shrouded in dense tropical foliage.  

Each of these plantations makes use of the old buildings; lodging, restaurants, lounge areas, with backdrops in these now peaceful settings.  The grounds and buildings date back to the 1600’s.  

Having circumnavigates the island with several stops along the way, we were returned to the port in 2 hours time.  

The island is a bit hard on the pocket book.  After rejecting several lunch options we found a ‘sole food’ place.  A mutton plate to share.  A bit like an old fashioned Sunday dinner.  Meat, potatoes, squash, boiled cabbage and a petite salad.  Quite good but lots of bones.  An afternoon aboard, watching mooring balls change hands as cruisers came and went.  The clouds that brush Mount Nevis illuminated with the setting sun.  

Ashore we found great internet at the library.  Lightning fast.  Jim went off to check out the Admiral / Lord Nelson museum, I stayed to get my internet fix.  The library is housed in the former government meeting house, second floor.  The structure is made of stone and volcanic rock.  The roof, wooden beams woven throughout.  As I sat and surfed, I was struck by the friendly, politeness this island is know for.  EVERY person that came and went paused at my table and said good morning ….    one person actually gently touch my shoulder to gather my attention from my keyboard…. good morning.  So very refreshing.  As you walk the streets, it is common (expected?) that you pass on a greeting. 

We purchased a few fresh items from the fresh food market, very much like a farmers market.  We again got to try new to us foods.  Sapodilla is a fruit about the size of a kiwi.  Wait till it’s soft to eat.  Sweet tender inside, dodge the 3 seeds.  Texture similar to a pear.  We also bought a couple of christophene, also know as chayote.  A very nice vegetable we will have again.   

Jim’s cultural enlightening at the museum was a bit disappointing.  Few artifacts, sketchy on historical information.  The reason for the museum … here.  Horacio Nelson married a local woman, Fanny Nisbet.  Lord Nelson made famous for the Battle of Trafalgar.  The song, a Drop of Nelsons Blood ( sea shanty), written to commemorate it.   The British fought against the Spanish and the French.   It didn't end well for the Admiral.  

We are on a mooring ball off Pinneys Beach.  It is one of the longest beaches we have seen in the islands.  It spans a few miles of the western coast.   Walking along the shore we spotted a Yellow Crested Night Herron scouting for crabs.  A stop at “Cold Beer, we met Pat.  He owns and operates “Cold Beer’.  We soon discovered it is the hangout for expats and locals.  Very reasonable rates.  If Pat is busy, get a beer, keep the cap.  When you go to pay up, turn in your cap so he knows what to charge.  Pat’s investment is low so he can keep the prices affordable.  The bar is made of discarded pallets held together by a few found boards; two by fours, etc.  Corners secured by bamboo poles firm in the sand.  Over head, more bamboo supporting palm fronds, more for shade than rain.  Seating: a variety of stumps supported with branches and 2 X 4’s.  A few picnic tables in dis & repair.  One bench seat from a van.  Our kind of place.  

Happy Birthday Stephen… looking forward to seeing you and Amanda soon!

We had heard of a local craft place to we went ashore to find it.  A pleasant walk through a heavily foliage trail to the main road.  Several minutes in the blazing sun and we were there.  Many of the items forsake on the town markets were for sale here, where they are made.  The building is home to a workshop teaching basketry, fiber crafts and pottery.  The workers, today all woman, were learning to make rugs and table trivets form local reads and palm fronds.  One of the baskets called out to me and it is now residing on Inishnee.  Lunch to day, street food.  Friday’s and Saturdays the locals set up food stalls near the produce market.  We got a heaping tray of BBQ chicken, green banana pudding, plantains,  rice and beans, salad, breadfruit and sweet potato pudding.  $7.00 US… We were stuffed.  Next the local fresh food market.  We hit the jackpot with exotic fruits and veggies today.  Christophene, a cocoa pod, sapodilla, guava, sugar apple, plantains and the flag for Montserrat.   

Sampled so far: The bread fruit tastes like potatoes, christophene like a firm, nutty squash, sapodilla fabulous!, plantains (ripe) awesome… the  others need to be more ripe before sampling.  Ripe seems to mean squishy, and on the verge of mold.  Then the sweetness come through.  We also bought a sample of guava ‘cheese’… it’s like a jelly candy and really good.  

We met up with Eric and Anne aboard S/v Kahuli for happy hour.  They purchased their boat last year in Tortola and have had a number of things to contend with as new boat owners.  Replaced their engine a month after purchase… They inadvertently didn't checkout of the BVI’s and were threatened with imprisonment and HUGE fines…they were able to negotiate the officials down to a thousand U.S. $’s. The season behind them, they spend hurricane season in Oregon and returned in December to continue their journey.  We will both set out for Montserrat tomorrow morning.  

Tonight we got to check another tick off the box of ‘done that’…. we officially saw the green flash.   It can NOT be compared to the northern lights… it was pretty minute.  Seriously, don't blink!  We had been told that the sky must be free of clouds but that is NOT the case.  As long as there are no clouds on the horizon to block the setting sun…  there is a good chance.  

Feb 27 

The passage to Montserrat.  

We were underway by 8:30am.  The winds predicted were much greater allowing us to sail a good part of the way.  Needing to go east and south we finally had to drop sail and power forward.  No fish would bite but we finally had a visit from a pod of dolphins!  There were about 5, they played in the bow wake for several minutes before taking off.  What a treat!  

We made Montserrat about 4:30.  Anchor down, customs et all cleared.  

New adventures await!