Dominica : a treasure island

March 4 Finishing up on The Saints

Our last day on the Saints we did laundry, got caught up on emails and blog postings, ate gelato and croissants.  And… met Matt.  Matt was sitting outside the laundry / internet / mini bar / customs office…  He was in the middle of making a coconut palm frond hat for a tourist.  We watch and were amazed at his skills and quick work.  I commissioned a bowl from him.  No problem, I have it done is 15 minutes.  And he did.  He was quite a character.  Very energetic and charismatic.  He lives on the second street back off main.  Next to the coconut palm he harvests for his craft.  A nice chat, some dollars changed hands and we were off with our booty… and our clean laundry… 

March 5 - 13

Portsmouth, Dominica 

A most excellent adventure.  

We sailed to Dominica buddy boating with friends Eric and Anne.  A very pleasant sail.  Winds 15 -20, swells manageable, unless you had to cook of use the head… just over 20 miles.  No fish would take the bate and we narrowly avoided a encounter with a log.  whew..  As we dropped sails to enter the harbor we could see one of the local boats approaching… He offered assistance as well as tour guide services.  Several others follower suit.  

We each took mooring balls and got cleared into customs / Immigration.  Dominica has the EASIEST clearance policy we have encountered so far.  You can check in and out with one visit, stay for up to 2 weeks.  If you want to stay longer, no problem, extensions happily granted.  

The local PAYS group (Portsmouth Association of Yacht Services) helps cruisers with all things boating, touring and provisioning.  The locals created PAYS as a way to ensure cruisers would stay longer, feel welcome and safe.  They have a patrol boat that cruises the mooring field through out the night.  Daily they assist in all cruising and touring needs.  On Sunday nights they host a dinner / bbq for cruisers.  Kind of a meet and greet event with music after.  Very loud, very happenin’ tunes.  

Calypso's Cabin / Pirates of the Caribbean II

Our friends Michelle and Jim from  S/v Wind Machine had been here for several days already.  We invited everyone over for beverages to discuss tour options for the coming week.  Jim and Michelle met another cruising couple, Jill and Rob, and they joined us as well.    

Dominica has very rugged terrain.  The guide book claims it is the only Caribbean island that Columbus would recognize if he were to return today…The volcano is dormant but not far below the surface there is sufficient hot lava to fuel several hot springs.  It has a number of rivers and even fresh water lakes.  

With the group of 8 we were able to narrow down the numerous tour options to 3.  By teaming up and sharing the costs we saved on expenses.  

Tour 1.   Indian River / Bush Bar

We arranged for pick up from each of our respective boats and were on shore and ready by 9 am.  Dominica has National Park Entrance fees separate from the tour costs.  Our guide; Jerome.  We set off up the Indian River, Jerome manning the oars.  No motors of ANY kind allowed.  Within minutes we were surrounded by dense vegetation, Jerome referencing names and botanical information as we floated along.  Bloodwood trees, the sap oozes a blood red color and was formerly used as a dye.  Flowers, ferns, coconut palms. Shore birds, mullets, crabs.  A jog to port and we rowed up a small branch of the main river.  A small shack perched a few feet above the mangroves, home of the witch Calypso from Pirates of the Caribbean II.  Our guide company Cobra has rebuilt the shack and maintained it so tourists can see the set for themselves.  The gnarly old mangroves trees make a stunning surroundings for the cabin.

Continuing down the main branch of the river,  we continued sighting many birds and  shore creatures.  The water is murky and brackish. Light penetrates through in a few places casting sun dogs onto the gently flowing waters.  The tour pauses at a bend in the river at the Bush Bar where we were treated to a small, jungly garden of lush plants.  The coconut man, aka Augustus, has fresh, young coconut for sampling.  First he hacks away at the very hard outer shell with his machete… all fingers still intact !  Then skillfully, a small nip in one side and fresh, cool coconut water for those contributing a couple bucks.  After we emptied the coconuts of their liquid, he then hacked some more and we ate the flesh.  These we very young coconuts and the insides were tender, almost pulp like.  Augustus then had us follow him a few steps to the coconut palm were he climbed to the very tip top (for each tour group!).  No rope of harnesses.  Just brute strength and agile hands and feet.  Upon his return to solid footing he then did a hand stand and ‘walked’ a few yards.   The calluses on his hands and feet proof he has spent years performing these tasks for onlookers.  His age ? … 40 something?… 

Return trip; gently drifting down with the tide.  Jerome directing our progress and rowing as needed. We returned to the dock, payed our tour fees and were shuttled back to our boats.  

Tonight we all attended the PAYS bbq.  Chicken, pork or fish.  Salad and rice.  All the rum punch you could drink followed by dancing … even MY Jim danced !

A really great day.

Tour 2   Island Adventure Tour, Middleham Falls and Tia’s Hot Sulfur Springs.   

We were picked up a 8 am.  A long day ahead of us.  Danny our tour guide today.  We wove through many small towns and villages.  Went up and over mountain ridges, gorges, rivers and along the coastline.  In August of last year (2015) the island received unprecedented rain.  The torrents of water building as it made it’s way into the ravines and valleys heading seaward.  The floods took out a number of bridges, inundated towns and villages along its path and nearly buried some seaside communities.  Anything in its path: cars, homes, businesses were damaged or destroyed.  It took a couple of months to put in bypass bridges causing travelers to take the  l  o  n  g  way around the island to get to the city.  Several businesses were not able to cope with the losses and have closed.  A rum distillery and coconut factory among them.  Hundreds of jobs lost.  Devastating families and drastically changing the communities earnings.  

We continued on, turning up from the sea shore and going up and up and up.  The brakes of the van treating us to wafts of overheating pads…  No problem says Danny… they were just replaced… 

Having driven to the limits of the navigable road, we then set off on foot.  The air was already quite a bit cooler and thinner at the start up the trail…  We began by walking up through the canopy of the jungle, climbing up spiderweb root structures, getting our footing between the maze under our feet.  Up, up and up… the trail turned to log steps intermixed with rocks and roots.  Up and down, through streams and more climbing.  … We came upon the 20 more minutes to the falls sign, now we needed to go down.  And down some more.  Then up and down and switch backs.  Finally we could hear the falls and catch glimpses of it through the undercarriage.  More down and around… then finally.  The magnificent Middleham Falls.   Anne and Eric had already taken the plunge into the very cool mountain pool the falls descend to.  We caught our breath and maneuvered between boulders to make the last few yards to the pool… directly below the falls.   Immediately it was apparent why we had been hearing shrieks coming from ahead as we closed in on the falls. The water was very, VERY cold!   Those brave enough swam with great effort up and under the falling cascade of water.  It was invigorating… Yes, I even braved the icy waters and took the plunge.  We played in the pool till our teeth chattered (not long), then climbed back to the platform installed by the Park staff.  We rested, had a snack. Then began the climb back up the switchback trail to the top of the mountain ridge and began our decent.  The return trip assisted by gravity was much faster.  

We stopped for a late lunch featuring local cuisine.  Goat curry, chicken or fish.  We all ate our fill sitting perched above a river gorge.  Then off again and onto the hot suffer springs.  More mountain passes, steep ascents and switch backs.   The springs were a perfect end to the long arduous climb we had all successfully completed.  After getting a thorough soaking in hot and hotter pools we had a fresh water rinse.  All of us are assuredly salt free after sooo much fresh water activity.  

The return trip brought us back over the same terrain and streets as the morning route.  Because of the August storm of last year that completely wipe out numerous bridges, many roads became dangerous to use. Red and white tape still is strung along sections of washout, a few barrels to further detour you from cutting the corner too close.  With some of the turns being quite sharp, it was very distressing to look at the road ahead and see the earth below the upcoming switchback eroded, pavement still partially in place.  … yet the cars, trucks, etc. still use this one and only road around the island.  When the floods came and the bridges were destroyed, it essentially locked in pockets of communities … A few individuals with larger boats were able to get supplies to theses communities in the months following the disaster, making a substantial profit in the process… according to Danny.   We put in a 11 hour day today… and it was awesome!

Tour 3 Island tour, Spanny Falls and  Kalinago (Carib) Village

We were met prompt at 8 am for our shuttle to shore, the rest of our group already aboard.  We wove our way east and north; mountain valleys, switch backs, ridges and coastline.  Danny our guide and driver again today had many interesting stops.  The ruins of a coconut roasting operation which we walked around and got sense of the process.  Danny foraged for a ripe coconut and using a stone cracked it open and spoke of the various parts and their uses. As we continued, Danny pointed out the many different crops along the drive, some gardens using the roadside for planting  things such as Cassava, eggplant, bananas, plantains, breadfruit…. and many more varieties.  

We continued on till we arrived at Spanny Falls, on private property.  The trail was easy to follow, Danny again stopping to point out and give samples of local produce including raw coffee beans.  Pop open the berry and suck on the seeds, then discard them.  We also tried raw fresh cocoa.  Same procedure as coffee.  Cut open the pod and such the thin flesh off the seed which is discarded.  The trail continued to a massive wall of ferns and foliage in which the mountain runoff drains over the side and keeps everything wet and dripping.  Around the corner and down the short but steep steps and the first of 2 falls appears.  A pool at the bottom to swim in.  The more adventurous of the group crossed the boulders of the river and climbed nearly straight up the opposite side of the wall, a rope secured tree to vine for assistance.  Swimming before the return trip.  With group back together, it was time to continue on with the journey.  

We made a stop at rasta Ronald’s roadside stand.  He had just roasted some coffee beans which we quick snatched up.  Lots of remarkable fruits, purple bananas that will turn red-orange when ripe (Sunday), guava, papaya, mango, pineapple, cabbage, pigeon peas… and plenty more.  Ronald also makes a coconut candy, roasted with ginger and lightly sweetened.    

Next, a late lunch overlooking the coast from a cafe perched on a cliff.  Fish (barracuda), smoked, spicy or baked chicken the options.  Sides included.  Lunch was followed with a local fruit sampling.  Guava, melon, cherries, banana and sugar cane.  

Back on the road, we stopped near the Carib / Kalinago Indian Territory.  The Kalinago people were the first to settle here, but were overcome by the fierce Caribs.  Today they are a peaceful people, known for their crafts including basket weaving, coconut shell ornaments: bird houses and carvings among the popular items sold.  The 8 off us all found wonderful treasures to return home with.  The sun was beginning its decent and we had spent nearly of our E.C.’s… the local money; Eastern Caribbean dollars.   The ride home circled around and intersected with our morning route.  Stunning coast line, cliffs drowning in the golden hour light and of course back over the washed out bridges and crumbling roads still in need of attention form the storm of last year.  Danny made a few unscheduled stops as we woven our way back… collecting local samples of flowers and plants creating a HUGE bouquet.  Back in Portsmouth, we divvied  up the foliage, gathered our purchases and were shuttled home.  Another spectacular experience on Dominica!  

Shopping at the fish and fresh market, dinner ashore and goodbyes…

Back to being live aboard’s.  Having seen a good deal of the natural habit the island has to offer we exchanged our tourist status back to cruisers and got back to living aboard.  The weather called for squalls and high winds the next few days so we were all staying put.  Several of us headed to shore early to hit the market and get provisions.  The sky was heavy with impending rain which opened fully on us as we disembarked the dinghy.  Rain coats and hats were little protection from the downpour.  Our ‘dry’ bags turned our to be not so dry, very damp bags.  Next time we use the heavy duty water proof ones.  At the fish market we made a purchase of a mahimahi for tomorrow night potluck, the 8 of us getting together before we head off in different directions.  We received a few tips on filleting from the locals then off to find a public bus to the supermarket.  $1.50 EC for a oneway ride pp… U.S. = 40 cents.  We made a few our purchases among the sparse selection then caught a bus back to the docks.   We purchased some fresh veggies and fruits at the local produce stands then off for home.  Thoroughly soaked!  The rains continued on and off all day the winds whistling through the rigging.  Several boats drug anchor but the PAYS guys were out immediately helping to rescue boats and minimize damage.  Only one collision, a French boat hit a catamaran creating minor damage, their anchors entangled; the PAYS guys again to the rescue.  A dinghy went for a solitary romp but was retrieved by another cruiser.  All this Harbor Cinema right out our back door.  

Jim borrowed Wind Machines hooka so he could replace the zinc on our prop shaft.  What’s a hooka?  In this case it’s device which allows a person to breath underwater without scuba gear.  Jim and Michelle made their hooka but they are sold commercially.  They use their air compressor attached to a hose attached to a regulator… wha la! 

Electrolysis happens naturally in water… more so in salt water.  All metals are susceptible.  Zinc is used as a sacrificial metal there by protecting the good stuff.  It is attached to different parts of a boats hull and is slowly eaten away by this process.  When sufficient erosion occur the zinc is replaced.  

We needed water so we called PAYS = Seabird = Jesse who is in charge of the water buoy.   Jesse wasn't available till late afternoon… he’d been up till the wee hours of the morning enjoying Friday night …  He met us at the mooring buoy, turned the picket on and we were all set.  The water buoy is a large float a few hundred yards off shore, 15 feet of water.  There is no proper dock for cruising boats to get to so this is their solution.  They have a submerged water line from shore running to the water buoy attached to a long hose.  

  

We met our cruising friends ashore with fixings for a potluck.  Wind Machine shared chart info with us all.  Michelle and Jim have traveled these waters many years and are a wealth of knowledge.  The mahimahi was put to the grill and we all ate our fill of fish and sides.  

Michelle and Jim (s/v WindMachine) will continue south as far as St. Lucia then turn back north for hurricane season.  

Jill and Rob (s/v Shakin the Dust) will continue north enroute to Texas, their home state.  

Anne and Eric (s/v Kahuli) heading north as well.  They plan to sail to Florida then prep their boat for overland transport to Washington State their home.  

I picked up a cold / flu bug… Never left the boat for 2 1/2 days… It rain nearly the entire time so I guess I didn't miss much.  Our final night in Dominica we were treated to another green flash!  This time there was no mistaking it.  It was quite vibrant.  To bed early to be ready for a long days sail tomorrow.  Up at 5am… Jim took note of our neighbors who had anchored their boat in front of us the previous afternoon… they were now behind us!  Very thankful they didn't hit us while dragging during the night.

We have gotten so good at fishing we don't even need a rod and reel any more.  The fish just fly in th boat while we are sleeping.  Unfortunately they are dried up and stinky by the time we find them, sometimes between our toes as we enter the cockpit (Jim) .. squishing eggs all over the floor…  not so nice first thing in the morning.

March 13

Today is my anniversary!  1 year ago today I retired.  It’s hard to believe all the fantastic things that have happened this past 12 months.  

I was feeling well enough today to sit topside.  Rain threatened on and off for the 55 + miles to Martinique.  We are traveling with Jim and Michelle as far as St. Lucia where they will turn back north.  Mother Nature was in a mood today and presented us with a double rainbow, very vibrant… then !  not one, but TWO whales !!! One off the starboard side, the other off port.  I think they were humpbacks but we have not had enough experience with whales… yet

We made St. Pierre, Martinique just after 3:30 PM…