Nevis
Feb 22 - 27
We sailed / motor sailed from St. Maartin to Nevis. The solar panels fueling the batteries as well as the wind generator. The sailing part of the journey was very boisterous. Heeling at 20*, not too comfortable. 12 hours from St. Martin, we made the port of Charlestown about 8:30pm, well after dark. The moon was full, helping a bit as we idled in. No mooring balls available we were forced to set the anchor. 2 frustrating hours later…. we finally got a hold on the bottom and hit the kill switch.
Jim was up and ready for customs et all by 8 am. Unfortunately they had other issues (?) which meant it would be a bit of a wait…
(commercial break) Nevis is one of two islands countries; St. Kitts (Christopher) their sister island. Nevis has one volcanic peak / crater, Mount Nevis, 3000 feet high; dorment. Several other smaller ‘hills’ dotted along its slopes. A good deal of the shore line is relatively low land, great for habitation and agricultural purposes….
Port authority, customs and immigration cleared… we are free to move about the country. We upped the anchor and headed down the shore to the larger, more protected mooring field at Pinneys Beach. We restored order to the boat and had a bite to eat.
Afternoon shore execution. Sunshine’s Beach Bar and Grill. “Killer Bee’ their specialty drink. $10 US dollars each ! we took a spot in one of the very festive personal lounge areas. Huge bed like benches with giant pillows, colorful curtains billowing with the breeze surrounding each seating area. A fur ball approaches under the table… hello kitty… nope… it’s Peanut. the resident, sort of tame, vervet monkey. He jumped on the table and helped himself to the remains of the last tenants beverages. Quite a sight and entertaining until the leftovers were gone and he wanted our beverages… Teeth bared and a hiss, we were quick to grab our cups and were temporarily successful in shoeing him off. He retreated to the palm tree next to us. The bar staff were soon to the rescue suppling Peanut with bananas which he thoroughly enjoyed. The Killer Bee proved to be quite potent and we were glad for the spacious lounging chairs. Our cruising kitty’s daily allowance maxed out from the happy hour purchase we returned to the boat. Sunset, dinner. A good nights rest.
Charlestown. We went to shore to explore the very laid back town, the only town on the island. A few communities dispersed along the circumference with necessities such as fuel and groceries. Nevis has some of the friendliest islanders we have met yet. Smiles with good morning / afternoon on everyones lips. Nicholas was quick to greet us. An aging gentleman who would be happy to give us a tour… The government has strict regulations and set fees for most services including taxi / tours. No bargaining. Nicolas and his van appeared to be of the same vintage, in about the same shape; showing some wear and tear. A bit slow on the start, but reliable and interesting. After a few tries at the starter the engine grumbled to life and we were off.
The island has countless sugar plantations ruins Several have been converted into high end resorts. Princess Diana and her boys stayed at the Montpelier Resort.
The Hermitage has rescued dozens of island cottages from demolition, moved and renovated them into guest houses. Gingerbread type architecture.
Golden Rock is home to very impressive gardens rivaling the next door Botanical Gardens. Each of the rental units are shrouded in dense tropical foliage.
Each of these plantations makes use of the old buildings; lodging, restaurants, lounge areas, with backdrops in these now peaceful settings. The grounds and buildings date back to the 1600’s.
Having circumnavigates the island with several stops along the way, we were returned to the port in 2 hours time.
The island is a bit hard on the pocket book. After rejecting several lunch options we found a ‘sole food’ place. A mutton plate to share. A bit like an old fashioned Sunday dinner. Meat, potatoes, squash, boiled cabbage and a petite salad. Quite good but lots of bones. An afternoon aboard, watching mooring balls change hands as cruisers came and went. The clouds that brush Mount Nevis illuminated with the setting sun.
Ashore we found great internet at the library. Lightning fast. Jim went off to check out the Admiral / Lord Nelson museum, I stayed to get my internet fix. The library is housed in the former government meeting house, second floor. The structure is made of stone and volcanic rock. The roof, wooden beams woven throughout. As I sat and surfed, I was struck by the friendly, politeness this island is know for. EVERY person that came and went paused at my table and said good morning …. one person actually gently touch my shoulder to gather my attention from my keyboard…. good morning. So very refreshing. As you walk the streets, it is common (expected?) that you pass on a greeting.
Jim’s cultural enlightening at the museum was a bit disappointing. Few artifacts, sketchy on historical information. The reason for the museum … here. Horacio Nelson married a local woman, Fanny Nisbet. Lord Nelson made famous for the Battle of Trafalgar. The song, a Drop of Nelsons Blood ( sea shanty), written to commemorate it. The British fought against the Spanish and the French. It didn't end well for the Admiral.
We are on a mooring ball off Pinneys Beach. It is one of the longest beaches we have seen in the islands. It spans a few miles of the western coast. Walking along the shore we spotted a Yellow Crested Night Herron scouting for crabs. A stop at “Cold Beer, we met Pat. He owns and operates “Cold Beer’. We soon discovered it is the hangout for expats and locals. Very reasonable rates. If Pat is busy, get a beer, keep the cap. When you go to pay up, turn in your cap so he knows what to charge. Pat’s investment is low so he can keep the prices affordable. The bar is made of discarded pallets held together by a few found boards; two by fours, etc. Corners secured by bamboo poles firm in the sand. Over head, more bamboo supporting palm fronds, more for shade than rain. Seating: a variety of stumps supported with branches and 2 X 4’s. A few picnic tables in dis & repair. One bench seat from a van. Our kind of place.
Happy Birthday Stephen… looking forward to seeing you and Amanda soon!
We had heard of a local craft place to we went ashore to find it. A pleasant walk through a heavily foliage trail to the main road. Several minutes in the blazing sun and we were there. Many of the items forsake on the town markets were for sale here, where they are made. The building is home to a workshop teaching basketry, fiber crafts and pottery. The workers, today all woman, were learning to make rugs and table trivets form local reads and palm fronds. One of the baskets called out to me and it is now residing on Inishnee. Lunch to day, street food. Friday’s and Saturdays the locals set up food stalls near the produce market. We got a heaping tray of BBQ chicken, green banana pudding, plantains, rice and beans, salad, breadfruit and sweet potato pudding. $7.00 US… We were stuffed. Next the local fresh food market. We hit the jackpot with exotic fruits and veggies today. Christophene, a cocoa pod, sapodilla, guava, sugar apple, plantains and the flag for Montserrat.
Sampled so far: The bread fruit tastes like potatoes, christophene like a firm, nutty squash, sapodilla fabulous!, plantains (ripe) awesome… the others need to be more ripe before sampling. Ripe seems to mean squishy, and on the verge of mold. Then the sweetness come through. We also bought a sample of guava ‘cheese’… it’s like a jelly candy and really good.
We met up with Eric and Anne aboard S/v Kahuli for happy hour. They purchased their boat last year in Tortola and have had a number of things to contend with as new boat owners. Replaced their engine a month after purchase… They inadvertently didn't checkout of the BVI’s and were threatened with imprisonment and HUGE fines…they were able to negotiate the officials down to a thousand U.S. $’s. The season behind them, they spend hurricane season in Oregon and returned in December to continue their journey. We will both set out for Montserrat tomorrow morning.
Tonight we got to check another tick off the box of ‘done that’…. we officially saw the green flash. It can NOT be compared to the northern lights… it was pretty minute. Seriously, don't blink! We had been told that the sky must be free of clouds but that is NOT the case. As long as there are no clouds on the horizon to block the setting sun… there is a good chance.
Feb 27
The passage to Montserrat.
We were underway by 8:30am. The winds predicted were much greater allowing us to sail a good part of the way. Needing to go east and south we finally had to drop sail and power forward. No fish would bite but we finally had a visit from a pod of dolphins! There were about 5, they played in the bow wake for several minutes before taking off. What a treat!
We made Montserrat about 4:30. Anchor down, customs et all cleared.
New adventures await!
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