Guadalupe and the Saints

Guadalupe

Feb 29 - March 2

 Our sail to Guadalupe was just about perfect.  Good wind, not too much heel.  Fish on, barracuda back to the sea then a tuna!  It put up a good fight but we are learning some tricks and we managed to get dinner on board!  A very nice size, 10 pounds +/- . Jim took care of the filet etc on the foredeck before it went in the fridge.  Our dry spell is over.  

We made the anchorage of Deshaies  pronounced Day-ay = French … ?  We set the hook, Jim cleared us into customs etc and we were ready for dinner.  Anne and Eric joined us.  Fish is not my thing but this tune was fantastic.  We had a side is saluted christophene with onion and carrots.  

The morning brought rain which continued on and off through out the day.  We were feeling a bit lazy and sat at a cafe and enjoyed the view while sipping expresso and ice coffee.  The cafe was directly on the waterfront allowing for a great harbor views… including todays Harbor Cinema.  I had read that if a cruising boat needed water there is a    l  o  n  g   hose that can be taken to the boat and filled, there is nowhere for cruisers to tie to a dock on shore.  As we sat sipping a catamaran demonstrated how it’s done.  They had to pull very close to shore and anchor, too close for the depths needed for our boat.  On shore the water hose was made ready and a dinghy took the hose to the cat.  They had to reposition closer since the line was just a bit shy of their boat.  After the hose was aboard the filling commenced, a very slow process…  

We strolled the very picturesque little town, two blocks wide.  4 maybe 5 long.  A river running to the sea on the edge of town.  If you walk (stumble)  up (in)  the river for 2 hours… there is a waterfall… Our friends Anne and Eric attempted the journey and after a considerable time they gave up and returned to town.  

We ducked into a wine store during one of the downpours.  Found a nice box of French wine to depart with as well as a sampling of a few local rums.  The French love the local rums soooo much it too is sold in boxes and sent to France.  Sixes from 1 -2 liters to 5 liters…. wine and rum.  

Continuing on our walk we happened upon a local selling his catch from his pickup bed.  A mahimahi.  quite large.  He de-finned, beheaded and sawed the fish into sections as we watched.  Scales to weigh and price the purchase in the bed of the truck.  It was tempting to purchase but our fridge still has a good portion of tuna to consume so we took a pass.  

Up on the hillier looking town is the cemetery.  Built above ground in the islands, this one appears to cling to the side of the hill.  

The morning of our departure, Lizzi brought us our preordered croissants to the boat.  Toasty warm, chocolate and plain.  The French know how to do pastries!  Lizzie’s other boat services include, laundry, trash removal, fruit and vegetable provisioning, wines and rums as well as local guide for hiking etc.  She is a very ambitious young lady, 

Off to Iles Des Saints ( The Saints)

The coast of Guadalupe is around 30 miles long.  Guadalupe is actually two islands very close together.  The 2 sides look a bit like a butterfly with open wings.  

The Saints.  

March 2 - 5

There are several islands close together which are considered the Saints.  They are part of Guadalupe. French Islands.  Very picturesque.  Camera needs to really at every corner.   There is a lot of tourist about coming and going from Guadalupe veil the ferrys.  The clipper ship Star Clipper comes in with 200+ passengers once every 2 weeks.  There are lots of unique items to purchase from very fashionable clothing,  souvenirs and wonderful french cuisine and of course hot fresh bread and croissants.  Chocolate is de-lish!

Jim, Anne and Eric climbed to the highest point of the island and back in just over 2 hot sweaty hours.   I opted for ice coffee at the sea side cafe and some shopping… a few great purchases.  Cathy Regnier is a local french water color painter.  She paints local scenes and sells the originals or prints.  We found a lovely beach fishing scene to ad to our newly started collection.  

The main street which follows the beach for a mile or so is filled with cafes, shops, groceries and fresh food stalls.  Many lovely homes / cottages refurbished to suit modern needs.  Most of the shops here open early, by 8am, and close for lunch… noon till ? … restaurants usually close as well and do not open till at least dark… 7pm…. We are usually tucked in safe by 6:30 so we have not seen the night life here.  

The language barrier is a bit daunting.  Try as best I can the proprietors just give me a bewildered looks when I try to ask for even the simplest things… One gal give me a lovely smile and said, “ why don't you just try english…”  oh well.  

We are checking in and out of Ilse de Staints again…. the weather report said stay put unless you are a masochist.  So we are doing laundry… an all day task with 2 washers and the lunch closing intermission… Internet…. and some more exploring.