Faial, Azores 2017

working on our mural

Faial

An overnight passage took us to Horta, Faial.  Approximately 13 x 18 km.  It is the usually stop for most cruisers. A large, well protected harbor.  Repairs to yachts can be secured, refusing for boats and bodies.  Provisions accessible and very affordable.  It is a busy and popular stop for cruisers, the marina although large, not large enough.  most boats have to raft off each other, the drew climbing on and over each otter's boats to get to the sea wall.  When one boat wants to leave, they notify (hopely) the other boat(s) and make a plan for departure.  The remaining crew / boats reposition to best suit them so as now to have to jockey the boats more than necessary.  Or, anchor in the harbor and dinghy in… 

Here we would meet up with the cruising flotilla from St. Martin.  All having tales to tell of woe and wonder.  All boats made it safely across.  Passage times varied from 18 days to nearly 4 weeks.  One boat had to sit out the front, hove to, in 40+ knot winds for a day.  They deployed a drogue (sea anchor), a kind of parachute net, used to keep the boat steady in heavy wind and seas.  After the blow, it took over 2 hours of heavy pulling to retrieve it… Another boat ran from the front, 500 miles south.  They successfully avoided the winds but added many miles and days to the trip.  We gathered at one of the fine restaurants for drinks and dinner, sea food and steaks with local wine.  As the evening and stories came to a close we were entertained by a trio playing traditional music known as Fado, emotional and mournful in style.  

Horta is a fairly modern city.  The marina, famous for it’s wall murals painted by the crews of boats calling to port before continuing on north and east.  A decades long tradition, sailors select a spot on the wall to leave their image, boat / name, year of passage.   Some very elaborate and colorful, some simple and to the point. 

 We found our “Blue Star’ image painted in 2004 still clinging to the wall… just barely.  Our own Inishnee image found a suitable spot and will stay until time wears it away or another crew commandeer it’s space.  

'Blue Star" mural from 2004
lower right corner

Alex had only a few days left before returning to his much missed family so we toured the island putting in a full day.  The weather was damp and cloudy, lower altitudes providing limited visibility, mountain tops shouldered in fog and rain.  Circling the island counter clockwise we visited many sea side villages all with a ‘port’ of some sort.   The terrain being very rough forced the inhabitants to be inventive, the port  of at the bottom long steep roads.  A a hoist at the sea shore for lifting boats in and out daily, many harbors too rough for long term storage afloat.  Often these jetties were around the lava flows which created natural pools…swimming / bathing made safe from the surge.  Often these areas were altered with concrete and steel to form large, more protected swimming  pools for the few short summer months where the water is at best, tolerable.

We had a long stop at the volcano Cabeco Verde.  In 1957 the volcano began erupting forcing the inhabitants of the area, lighthouse and whaling station to evacuate.  Today the upper story of the lighthouse and its tower are all that remain, the rest buried beneath many acres of new earth… Alex though it was quite funny he could say that his dad was actually older than dirt… Small traces of roof tile and stone are visible scattered about the area where the whaling station community was.  Some excavation has taken place.  A new museum has been built into and under the volcanic sediment, a short video with footage of the eruption and the history of the area are featured.   

Da Caldera e Capelinhos

Lunch was spent at the sea side resort ton of Ponta do Varadururo.  Sea views, good food and wine.  

Next we drove the the top of Da Caldeira e Capelinhos, an extinct volcano.  The views completely lost in the clouds.  Fortunately we would get another chance in a few days…

Alex left for home and we began the task of laundry and general cleaning. enjoying a break in the weather as it slowly creeping into summer weather and sunshine.  

We toured the Scrimshaw Museum, part of the Peter’s Cafe Sport complex… Hundreds of whale bones and teeth on display.  Grouped by genre: sailing, whaling, famous persons, religious, and family images.  The earlier pieces were unmarketable, made by the whalers who were passing the time and learning the art using crude tools such as jackknives and nails.  As more supplies became available and tools refined the art works became increasingly complex.  Images were carved into nearly any hard surface the whale could provide including the inner ear  bones…  Cafe Sport is known to any and ALL sailors who pass through Faila.  The owner, Jose, was a friend to all and enjoyed hosting the passing sailors while in port.  The bar providing food and drink as well as a place to share a few sea tales. 

interior Cafe Sport

The name Peter Cafe Sport came about when someone mistakenly called Jose Peter… because he looked like his son of that name… the mistake was repeated often and the name stuck. today, the entire block appeared to be owned /operated by the Cafe Sport Company: bar and restaurant with outdoor patio, a gift store (of course), a travel, tour and whale watching company too.  And the scrimshaw museum.  

Rob and Joisen

Our friends Rob and Joisen aboard s/v Inish asked us to tour the island with them.  The day was warm and sunny making for great vistas at all altitudes including the caldera and many miradoruro’s atop the mountains.  Several of the areas windmills have been restored for historical purposes though non functioning.  We found some new bays and interesting side roads leading to ports and villages.  

Pico 

picture curtesy of crew Inish

As we ventured about our paths crossed with rally race course drivers.  The souped up Ford Fiesta type cars converge several times a summer to compete in off road racing.  A local dirt track or remote gravel roads, temporarily closed to the public. 

Many fine meals were eaten including Cafe Sport (really good octopus salad) and Canto do Doca… the hot rocks place.  Your oder is taken, seafood or carne or a combination.  Wine or another beverage served while you wait for your rock… you personal, very hot (500’ F) volcanic lava stone placed infant of you and your meat selection on the side… following instructs (NO oil, butter or salt on the HOT stone! your skin will not like you after being scalded) you grill your own meal at your leisure.  

the finished mural

Horta from the waterfront

a diver recovering Jim's glasses

Sipping and chatting and enjoying the heat from the stone on a cold evening… or sweating it out on a hot day.  Jim and Kathy choose the combo tuna, swordfish and squid, chicken, beef and pork.  French fries and salad for sides, prepared prior to serving. 

swing pool
Azorean style 

(former) whale boat
practicing for an up coming race

Pico
Steve Job's boat
mural wall of Horta