Sunday, July 9, 2017

Passage: St. Martin -Flores, Azores 2017

May 20 - June 7
St Marin, Caribbean to Flores, Azores
3 Crew, Jim, Kathy and Alex
2,468 miles in a straight line, over a curved globe, which of course is impossible to accomplish in a sailing vessel.
ETA: Hope for 3 (weeks), plan for 4

The morning of departure sent Jim and Alex to the customs office to check out while Kathy posted the blog unsuccessfully… 
All paperwork in place and back on board, the final preparations were underway.  Stow the motor on the aft rail, hoist and secure the dinghy to the fore deck.  Secure possible projectiles in the cabin and wait for the 10:30 am bridge opening.  With a bit of Jameson, we christened the voyage, Poseidon and Neptune and of course Inishnnee.  
We had plenty of company for our exodus; a 3 masted classic sailing yacht, several sailing vessels in our size category and one beamy trimaran (Anastrada) that grazed the sides of the bridge retaining walls as it squeezed its way through through.  We could hear their fenders groaning under the pressure from the hull and the cement embankment as it forced its way out.  
one of the 18 sunrises 
Once in the open waters of Simpson Bay, we turned into the wind and hauled the sails up, came about and headed around the island to our projected rhumb line.  Dolphins sprang up in our bow wake as we pass through the last of the island chain.  Alex was quick to make it to the bow with his new GoPro, unfortunately the camera recorded nothing in the sleep mode… Later a large turtle was spotted, possibly a hawksbill.  





The clocks were reset to UTC time zone, which coincides with the Azores.  Watches were assigned: Jim 1200-0400, Alex 04000- 0800, Kathy 0800- 1200.  Our personal weather router, Dave Witford from Grand Rapids (GR), MI would help us along the way. In another life, Dave was the TV weather man for GR.  We sent him daily position reports while on passage, he would plot our course and give suggestions to find the wind or in some cases avoid it… We communicate through our newly purchased IridiumGo; using satellites, it becomes a hot spot for our devices and allows communication via email, messaging and if you are very patient (it’s a slow connection) even phone calls.  We used it primarily to download weather forecasts.  


The first few days of the trip were warm and pleasant and only a few mishaps, the shower took a good hit of sea water through an open hatch being used for ventilation, once discovered it was closed.  
The water maker refused to work for more than 2 minutes without tripping the breaker.  Jim and Alex spent a day scratching their collective heads for a solution.  The very sensitive breaker was bypassed routing it directly to the fuse.  Problem solved.  
“Chris’, the steering mechanism began to squeak, then groan. Jim crawled down in its compartment and tighten the cable.  Fingers crossed it continues to work.

plotting our course
















Daily call-in to the ‘net’,  organized prior to departing St. Martin.  6 boats participating.  Ally of Sv Blue Heeler the net controller.  Several boats departed 6-7 dos prier to us, we left with 2 others.  The purpose of the net is to record vessel positions and assist if possible.  Because each boat and crew are vastly different; size, age and temperament, the course taken broadens with each mile.  Within a day were had all lost sight of each other and would  not meet up again till landfall.  

We settled into routines as more and more water passed under the keel.  Winds steady at 15 knots, with one 2 hour lull where the engine was employed.  Daily visits from dolphins. Dinners together, usually lunches too.  Breakfast on our own.   Naps as needed.  Plucking seaweed from the fishing line.  Staying hydrated and out of the sun.  Tweaking sails, monitoring our progress, making water, cooking eating, 
Night watches alone with your thoughts.   Lifejackets and tethers for safety.  Staring our to sea, gazing at stars.  A few flying fish made it on board, always discovered too late for rescue.  A remarkably small amount of trash was spotted; in general all plastic.  
As week one drew to a close, night time watches required increasingly more layers.  Kathy the first to bring out the hat and sweaters.  
Berd
Berd (with and e) stayed with us for over a week.  Swooping down and soaring by.  Sometimes landing abeam of the bow and resting till we would get nearly out of sight then with a stretch of his winds he would lift off and repeat the swooping, soaring and resting… then one day, no more  Berd.  
Time was marked by opening new bags of food, having been package with one week menus.  The weeks worth of new snack ratios filled the bin by the companionway, easy, quick pick me ups.  Half way day was celebrated twice.  May 28 and mile 1,234… we had a quick toast but the boat motion was too uncomfortable so our celebration dinner would have to wait.  For nearly 24 hours, the boat took on the worst motion we have experienced in our 2 years of cruising.  No storm just very confused seas following the wind shift.  The wind and waves at odds with each other.  The stern of the boat made an exaggerated sideways figure 8.  It went from port to starboard circling the figure 8. Granola bars and hot beverages would have to suffice.  



First light brought our first squall along with some lightening.  Halfway day part 2: 1,111 miles to go.  Conditions better, the swell and waves much diminished.  Dinner: Conard con fit (duck), mashed potatoes, gravy and creme de’ pot.  and a sip of wine.
Turducken was served the following day… Duck, with turkey gravy and chicken stuffing.   


May 10… Still making good time we continued east and north.  Daily weather reports coming in.   The winds increased, the seas relatively flat.  Our GPS recored a steady 9 knots of boat speed for over 8 hours!  Any faster and we would need helmets.  We were now 130 miles ahead of the nearest boat that left with us… Jim’s invaluable sailing skills, dumb luck and good routing! 
Dolphins and pilot whales spotted on watches.  Temps in the 70’s, Alex in shorts, Jim in long pants and Kathy hiding below deck shivering when not on watch (the wind chill is numbing at over 9 knots of boat speed).  
The iridium was used to place a few calls to the States, over a 1000 miles from land… Amazing technology!
an unfortunate hitchhiker
Portuguese Man O' War







Day 13… 
June 1 
Several whales spotted.  Humpbacks we think.  All hands made quick on deck.  More whale spouts later, then one surfaced beside the boat, maybe 100 feet abeam!  A rasping expulsion of air / mist, a gentle throaty, rumble.  (Hard to describe its sound).  Easily identified as a humpback.   A very humbling experience.  Massive creature. 


June 3, two weeks out.  
A rough night for Jim.  Many sail changes requiring his help.  Little wind so we motor sailed then dropped sails all together.  We crossed the rhumb line (our imaginary road) for the first time since leaving making a more easterly course now.  Daylight brought light wind so the spinnaker was hoisted.  It pulled  like  a freight train.  The decision was made to keep it up through the night, wind expected to be light to moderate… At 3:30 am (of course) the winds had increased significantly… the spinnaker had to be snuffed out.  All hands ready, life jackets and tethers on.  The plan reviewed and put in action.  But according to ‘Murpheys Law’… if it can go wrong … it will.  


The line that is used to control the spinnaker sock for deployment and snuffing had accidentally been cleated to the bow… Alex literally had his hands full trying to free the line and control the flogging sail.  Jim turned over cockpit controls to Kathy and he made his way forward to assist.  With brut strength the 2 men were able to free the line and bring the spinnaker and sock safely to the deck.  It was made secure to the the mast pulpit and two very tense deck hands returned to the safety of the cockpit.  Alex claims to have a new respect for the sailing gloves…




With the new day some rest and much appreciated sunshine, the crew settled back into living aboard.  
Turtle spotting
Dolphins riding the bow
Gun metal grey seas
Spindrift
Foam trailing in our wake
Tarnished silver seas
Skies full of ribbon clouds
Whale watching
Golden peach sunrises peaking through a blank of moisture laden cloud
Less than 200 miles to go…


June 6 
damp, wet cold.  we took a wave in the cockpit last night.  all ports and opening dogged down.  some of our traveling companions have diverted to Horta, Faila hoping to out run the front heading our way possibly expected to bringing 40 knots of wind.  Flores is just over the horizon for us… we should make it by daybreak.  fingers crossed.  A fishing boat spotted at 11:30 pm. 





















Land Ho!














June 7

We sailed through the night, bundled up in foulies, with a reefed main and gib.  At 2:30 am 2 lights are spotted… one off port one to starboard.  Not on AIS?…  we keep a close watch. After an hour of speculation, the paper charts are consulted.  Land Ho!  The lights are the Lighthouses on Flores.  It would be many more hours before the actual land mass is spotted due to stormy skies; but we have done it!  
We logged over 2,468 nautical miles.  Avoided any significant mishaps and skirted the ‘front’ that was bearing done on us.  





The anchor was dropped in the outer harbor of Lajes, Flores at 7:30 am local time.  




























































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