Wednesday, July 12, 2017

Flores, Azores 2017



Flores, Azores
June 7-12, 2017

Cruisers crossing the Atlantic to Europe usually make a stop on at least one of the nine islands called the Azores.  Located just beyond halfway between the Americas and Europe.  All the islands are volcanic, some active.  Inhabited since the 15th century, primarily by the Portuguese who discovered them.  

From the sea, the rugged terrain that rises steeply out of the sea suggests what awaits us in Flores.  Green forests and pastures high on the bluffs.   A few small harbors fortified by man with break walls allow marine traffic to seek shelter.   We rafted off another boat, common practice in these small marinas. The island is relatively small, 12 x15 km.  Most islanders speak Portuguese, restaurants and shops usually employ at least one local who speaks english.  The translation app on our phones assisting when necessary.  

We took a day to decompress and sort out our damp gear and clothes.  The cockpit looked like the boat threw up its contents from below.  We dug through boat lockers for our warm weather clothes, the daytime temps being generally in the low 60’s.  After adjusting to land and getting our bearings we celebrated with dinner out.  Local food, home grown and cooked would follow us through out these enchanting islands.   Small shops selling local produce, including bananas and oranges grown in micro climates nestled throughout the area.  Portuguese rolls, bread and cheeses accompany most meals.  Grass feed beef tender and succulent.  

A car tour took us through some amazing landscapes.  Each village or pasture a painting waiting for an artists palette.  A woman milking a cow in a small field by her home.  Cattle being ushered to new pastures up and down the country hillsides and lanes.  Mountain top lakes filling in calderas.  Rivers running to the sea falling off cliffs creating long spills of waterfalls.  







The fields are lined with volcanic stones ordered into walls forming a patchwork quilt of greens. The homes built of the same stones, some covered in white plaster others black as the mountains they came from.  Red doors and window trim dramatically constant natures colors. Flores in english means flowers and the island certainly provides an abundance of them.  Every garden and roadside park are drenched in bushes and bouquets of various colors.  Unfortunately the famous hydrangeas were just starting to bloom (early June); not yet at their peak.  They were introduced with the early settlers and have become an icon known to those who visit the island group.  They grow along side the stone walls that dissect the fields and hills.  The blooms ranging from whites, pale blue and brilliant violet. Green always encompassing the backdrop.  


It feels as if we are in a Hobbit movie setting.  An ancient, unspoiled land.  The few areas where the lava flows (Fajas) leveled out and met the sea are prime real estate for small villages and habitation.  Nearly all buildings are topped with red / orang clay tiles, again making a delightful contrast to the very green landscape. 



The miradouro’s (view points) along the well maintained roads offer spectacular views.  One of Flores’ most famous points of interest is Pipe Organ outcrop.  A volcanic structure that appeared to be… pipe organs.  

A stop at a picturesque creek with a charming black and white cottage brought out the keeper of the mill, still operating for historical purposes.  The river water is channels under the cottage and passes through a water wheel that turns a grinding wheel which produces corn flour.  She demonstrated the process and allowed us to make a small purchase of the finished product.  












The whaling museum  was very informative.  A former whale processing station, the building and mechanical engines restored for viewing purposes.  The whaling industry officially halted in the mid to late 1980’s forcing many to find new careers.  One of which is a popular but short tourist season for whale / dolphin watching.  


One of the boats berthing near us is on a climate exposition around the world.  Sabine and R… have been traveling for over 16 years aboard S/v Pacamama (inca for mother earth).  Along the way they bore 5 children, one more incubating!  They have given presentations to over 100,000 school children on the effects of climate change.  Their destinations are often remote, less traveled islands and lands.  For more information about their incredible journey, visit TopToTop.org… it’s quite a story.  



































































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