SV Inishnee: Terceiera,azores

Terceira

With more festivals and islands to explore we departed for Terceira having heard there is a BIG festival in progress. An island the shape of a fava bean. Our port would be Angra do Heroismo; creek of heroes. In 1980 an earthquake destroyed around 80% of the city and surrounding ares. The city leaders applied for and received a World Heritage UNESCO Site designation with grant in 1983 to help restore the city (dating back to 1500’s). The cities 3 story buildings, cathedrals, convents and public spaces have been restored to their original facades and interiors with modern plumbing and electric incorporated. Take away the cars and you can imagine you are have been transported to the 1500’s.

Our visit coincided with the San Joanis (Holy Spirt) festival. The city celebrated the ‘imperios’ (empire: meaning #1) with nightly parades, music and the ‘gastronomical’ booths. The festival origins date back to Queen Islalbella Events included: whale boat and sailboat races, lone car race (homemade go carts), bulls fights: arena and to the rope.

Bull fights… NO bulls are killed in the EU states. We attended a bull fight in the official arena. 3 teams of 3 men armed with small blankets (used like a cape) and umbrellas. and quick feet clad in grippy shoes. Each round began with a feisty bull being turned into the arena followed by any or all the team who taunted the bull into chasing them about the field, leaping over walls or ducking behind bull and horn barriers. The round continues till the bull tires, about 15-20 minutes. Usually the bull (having done this LOTS of times exits the area on his own… some times he needs encouragement. A harem of 5 or so cows are released into the arena to attract the bulls attention and follow them out.

We later toured the island and came upon an county bull ring in the hills surround by pastures with many bulls grazing and lazing about. They are breed for fighting and live a rather peaceful life when not in the ring… or on the rope.

A bullfight to the rope is an island version of running of the bulls. An area is selected and secured. boards, pallets and barriers put in place for protection; the bull as well as the spectators and participants. We watched along the water front adjacent to the marina. 4 bulls were brought in by truck each in a ‘box’. They are off loaded by crane and left to wait there turn. At the appointed hour the bull is released, a long, LONG rope around its neck with 5 handlers midway down the rope, 5 more at the end of the rope. Several bull fighters (professionals) are on hand to tease the bull and supply a bit of show for the crowd. However, anyone can participate… at the their own risk. The bull is teased into one was or another bolting toward a group or individual. The crown (ALL men) scatter and run, sometimes over each other to get out of the bulls path. For the most part it is in fun. The bull gets VERY tired but is NOT harmed (spears, swords or knives) or killed. Occasionally it does take a spill on the concrete of cobble stones. One of ‘our’ bulls discovered the quay leading into the water and repeatedly ran for it. The swimmers scrambling for deeper water, the handlers trying to coax it to higher ground. One of the swimmers didn't get quite far enough into the deep water when the bull caught up to him… he was run over and stomped on. A bloody face emerged from the sea. He’ll recover with a few bruises and a great story.

One of the locals told us the 5th bull was the worst of all… Having only seen 4 bulls we were perplexed. Then he motioned with his hand as if he were drinking… ah! the 5th bull, the worst in any culture.

The Lone Car Race participants built and raced their contractions down a steep hill and around some corners hoping of rate best time overall.

Every night the downtown streets were closed to traffic. Thousands of people walked around, eating, socializing and waiting for the lighting of the street arches and the parade. The sports parade: all the teams (judo, sailing, soccer, fishing..etc) walk the route, some giving a demonstration of skills. The orchestra parade… bands; drums and boggles and full ensembles. The horse and carriage; participants dressed in 16th century apparel.

And the finally, the Children's Parade. The streets were closed early so the RED carpet could be laid. A mile and a half of red carpet 15 feet wide. The entire city and half the island in attendance. The lights are lit. Down the hill the parade marches (rolls). Float one, a huge open book with actors dressed as story characters who cross up and over a bridge followed by a dozen actors in animal costumes (Disney like). Then float number 2. A scene from a story, giant otters and birds displayed in a forest setting. Then… the the crowd dispersed. ? ! 2 floats, parade over.

It seems the parades are meant to give the public a reason to get out of the house and mingle. Listen to music. Socialize. A lovely custom (but a LOT of work for 2 floats).

Of course we toured, again with Crew Inish. The island has much to offer. Expansive pasture land with grazing cattle, majestic miradouros (scenic overlooks), seaside villages and several caves. The caves were formed from volcanic activity which created lava tubes. These tubes sometimes collapsed or filled in, some remain partially open. We toured two. The first, we had to wear hard hats and do a bit of crawling. Water dripped through the porous rock through out. The second was open to the surface by a cavernous hole allowing light to penetrated nearly to the bottom. The ‘tourist’ entrance was carved and blasted through and down the the mid point and steps were added with a few guard rails. The very bottom of the navigable tube (cave) housed a small pool. The walls of the tube were covered in moss, algae and mineral deposits.

photo curtesy of crew Inish

We met a herd of goats along the road. The traffic, cars, trucks and bikes thing desperately to weave their way past.

We tried to decipher the many murals used as sign posts for the miradouros and public places.

Small chapels know as ‘imperios’ (meaning #2) all over the county side were the “crowns’ are kept. Colorful and ornate. Usually near the main church. In the 7 weeks leading up to the festival the crowns are kept in place of honor in one of 7 selected homes of the ‘brotherhood, the laymen of from the church. They are passed on weekly till the culmination of the festival and the “Coronation” of the crowns…(hope we got that more of less correct.)

photo curtesy Crew Inish

We ate fantastic meals at economical prices. A paid little or nothing at government parks, forests and monuments. We saw evidence of lots of volcanic activity everywhere. A week was just about right for visiting before moving on. We bid farewell to our dear friends Rob and Josien aboard Inish. They are bound for Ireland our course more east.